Simple meals and simple dishes are easily prepared, they lessen domestic care, are less likely to cause indigestion, and soon become appreciated and preferred.
Few persons realize how little they know the true taste of many vegetables; the majority having never eaten them separately or cooked in a proper manner. A cauliflower skilfully served as a separate course, either "au gratin" or with thin melted butter slightly flavoured with a few drops of Tarragon vinegar, or with tomato sauce, has quite a different taste from that which is experienced when it is mixed up with gravy, meat, potatoes and other articles or food.
Young green peas, or new potatoes steamed in their skins and dried off in the oven so as to be "floury," will, if eaten with a little salt and butter, have a delicacy of flavour which is scarcely noticeable if they are served with a plate of beef or mutton and other vegetables. A few chestnuts carefully cooked in a similar manner, make a dish that an overfed alderman might enjoy; and the same remark will apply to many simple and easily prepared fruitarian dishes.
It is a mistake to think that this reformed diet necessarily involves a great amount of cooking, for the reverse is the fact if simplicity is aimed at and its advantages are appreciated. It is well to remember also that our most enlightened and progressive physicians are now recommending uncooked foods of all kinds to all who would retain or regain health.
An excellent lunch can be made with some well chosen cheese and brown bread and butter, and a delicate lettuce (dressed with pure olive oil, a small quantity of French wine vinegar, and a pinch of sugar), followed by fresh and dried fruits such as bananas, almonds, raisins, figs, etc. Such a repast is inexpensive, nutritious, and easily digestible. A large variety of foreign and fancy cheeses are now obtainable, so that even such a simple meal as this can be varied constantly. The best lettuces are produced by our French neighbours, but our own market gardeners are beginning to learn that it is easy to get them tender by growing them under glass.
The Simple Breakfast. In most fruitarian households the cooking for breakfast soon becomes simplified and lessened. Eggs served in different ways on alternate mornings, fresh and dried fruits, nuts, brown bread, super cooked cereals such as granose biscuit, butter and preserves, are found to be quite sufficient as accompaniments to the morning beverage. French plums, figs and other dried fruits, when carefully stewed in the oven for some hours, and served with cream, are very nutritious. A small plate of 'Manhu' wheat, rye, barley, or oat flakes, served with hot milk or cream, can be added so as to make a more solid meal for growing children or hard workers. And those who are accustomed to a more elaborate breakfast, because of the difficulty of obtaining a mid-day substantial meal, can select one of the items which are mentioned in the list of recipes under the heading of "Breakfast Dishes."
Avoid Dyspepsia. One reason for urging simplicity is that, owing to prevalent ignorance concerning food-values, it is more easy for the inexperienced food-reformer to make dietetic mistakes than the flesh-eater.
By partaking freely of stewed acid fruits and vegetables at the same meal, or by blending a great variety of savouries, vegetables, sweets and rich fatty dishes together in a ghastly 'pot pourri,' or by eating to excess of porridge, beans, or fried dishes, many have made serious blunders. They, for want of proper instruction, have hastily come to the conclusion that "vegetarian diet does not suit them," and returning to the flesh-pots, have henceforth denounced the evangel of dietetic reform, instead of profiting by the useful lesson Nature tried to teach them.
The wisest plan is to make one's diet generally as varied as possible, but not to mix many articles together at the same meal.
Abstainers from flesh should begin to live to some extent (say two days a week) in picnic style, and the practice will soon become more habitual. A picnic luncheon which is considered enjoyable in the woods or on the moors will be found to be just as nice at home if the articles provided are well chosen and tastefully prepared. Variety can be obtained by introducing daintily cut sandwiches made with mustard and cress, tomato paste, potted haricots, or lentils, scrambled eggs, fancy cheese cut thinly, flaked nuts and honey, etc. Fresh and dried fruit, nuts, almonds, raisins and sultanas, fruit cakes, and custard or rice puddings, provide useful additions; and it will soon be found that the old-fashioned three or four-course meal which involves such laborious preparation is a needless addition to life's many cares.
Necessary Elements in Food. It is important to bear in mind that our daily food must contain a sufficient quantity of certain necessary elements:
(1) Protein. To be found in nuts and nut foods (such as Protose, Nuttoria and Fibrose, &c.), eggs, cheese, brown bread, oatmeal, haricots, lentils and peas.
(2) Fat. To be obtained in nuts, nut-butters, olive oil, cheese, milk, cream, butter, and oatmeal.
(3) Phosphates and Mineral Salts. Contained in the husk of wheat, barley, oats, and rye (therefore included in brown bread, granose biscuits and other whole-wheat or cereal preparations), cheese, bananas and apples.
(4) Sugar. To be obtained from all starch foods, but most easily and in the best and most readily assimilable form from sweet fruits and honey.
A PLEA FOR MODERATION
One of the most frequent mistakes made by those who commence to live upon a fleshless diet is that of eating too much – an error, also committed by the general public. Often, through ignorance of the fact that lean beef consists of water to the extent of about 75 %, and through having been brought up under the spell of the popular delusion that meat is a great source of strength and stamina, they jump to the conclusion that they must consume large plates of cereals and vegetables in order to make up for their abstinence from animal food. They bring upon themselves severe attacks of dyspepsia – either by eating excessive quantities of starch in the form of porridge, bread and potatoes, or of such concentrated foods as haricots, lentils or nuts (being ignorant of the fact that these latter are much more nutritious than lean beef and that only a very small quantity is needed for a sufficient meal)[2 - See Table of Food Values.].
Nothing does more injury to the Food-Reform Movement than the discredit which is brought upon it by those who upset themselves by over-eating, and who feel led to justify their defection by attacking the system they have forsaken. Among the numerous cases brought to my notice, I remember one of a minister's wife, who by partaking of seven meals a day, and finishing up at ten o'clock in the evening with cocoa, cheese and porridge, brought herself to such a state of nervous prostration that her local doctor ordered her to return to a flesh diet, "as she required nourishment." He thus diagnosed her condition, instead of attributing it to preposterous over-feeding.
A Golden Rule for every food-reformer is this —Eat only when you are hungry, and never to repletion. An exception must be made, however, in certain cases of anæmic and delicate persons. When there is not sufficient vitality to cause appetite, or to digest food normally, it is often necessary to insist on regular meals being taken, notwithstanding the patient's distaste for food. Drowsiness and stupor after a meal are sure signs of excess, and I cannot too strongly urge temperance in diet. During my long experience of philanthropic work as an advocate of natural and hygienic living, I have only heard of a few cases of persons suffering any ill effects from eating too little, whereas cases of the opposite sort have been rather numerous. Ninety-nine per cent. of the centenarians of the world have been characterized by abstemiousness; however much their ways and customs may have otherwise differed, in this one respect they are practically alike – declaring that they have always been small eaters, and believers in moderation in all things.
ARTISTIC COOKERY
In every household where reformed diet is adopted, effort should be made to prepare the meals in an artistic manner. If a dish is skilfully cooked and tastefully served it is not only more enjoyable but more easily digested.
The general custom in English homes is to serve vegetables in a rather slovenly style. To see how nicely such things as legumes, vegetables, salads and fruits can be prepared, one requires to go to a good French or Italian restaurant. But it is quite easy for us to learn the ways of our friends abroad, and to make our dishes look tempting and appetising.
One of the first lessons to be learned by the vegetarian cook is how to fry rissoles, potatoes, etc., quite crisp, and free from any flavour of oil or fat. To do this a wire basket which will fit loosely into a stewpan is necessary, and it can be purchased at any good ironmonger's shop. Nutter (refined coconut butter) is a well prepared form of vegetable fat, and it is retailed at a moderate price; it keeps for a long period and is equally useful for making pastry – three quarters of a pound being equal to one pound of butter. Where nut-butters cannot be obtained, good olive oil should be used.
The temperature of the fat or oil must be past boiling point, and should reach about 380 degrees. When it is hot enough it will quickly turn a small piece of white bread quite brown, if a finger of it is dipped in the fat. Unless this temperature is reached the articles to be fried may turn out greasy and unbearable. If the fat is heated very much beyond 400 degrees it may take fire. Haricots, lentils, and many other legumes are more tasty if made into cutlets or rissoles and fried in this manner, after being mixed with breadcrumbs and seasoning, than if merely boiled or stewed in the usual crude style.
The Art of Flavouring. The art of flavouring is also one which should be studied by every housewife. By making tasty gravies and sauces many a dish which would otherwise be insipid can be rendered attractive. The recipes for "Gravies" will prove useful on this point.
Many valuable modern scientific food products are not fully appreciated because people do not know how to serve them. Take 'Protose,' 'Nuttoria' and 'Nuttose' for instance – very useful substitutes for flesh which are made from nuts (malted and therefore half digested). If slightly stewed, and eaten without any flavouring, some persons dislike the distinctive taste; if, however, they are well cooked, according to the recipes printed later on in this book, and served with such garnishings as are recommended, they are usually much enjoyed, even by those who are prejudiced against all vegetarian ideas.
Cooking by Gas saves Labour. Cooking by gas appliances is more easily controlled and regulated than when the old-fashioned fire is employed, and much labour for stoking and cleaning is avoided. Those who can do so, should obtain a gas hot-plate, consisting of two or three spiral burners, and a moderate-sized gas oven. If they cannot afford the ordinary gas cooking oven, a smaller substitute can be obtained, which can be placed upon any gas jet; this is very economical for cooking single dishes, and for warming plates, etc. A gas cooking jet can be obtained for eighteenpence, and two or three of these will take the place of a hot-plate if economy is necessary. In summer-time the kitchen range is quite a superfluity unless it is required for heating bath water.
A New Mission for Women. The ordinary public know very little of the variety and delicacy of a well chosen fruitarian dietary when thoughtfully prepared; ignorance and prejudice consequently cause thousands to turn a deaf ear to the evangel of Food-Reform. All women who desire to bring about the abolition of Butchery, and to hasten the Humane Era, should therefore educate themselves in artistic fruitarian cookery, and then help to instruct others.
To illustrate the truth of these remarks I may mention that at a banquet given by the Arcadian Lodge of Freemasons, at the Hotel Cecil, in London – the first Masonic Lodge which passed a resolution to banish animal-flesh from all its banquets – one of the Chief Officers of the Grand Lodge of England attended. He came filled with prejudice against the innovation and prepared to criticise the repast most unfavourably. In his after-dinner speech, however, he admitted that it was one of the best Masonic banquets he had ever attended, and said that if what if he had enjoyed was "vegetarian diet," he was prepared to adopt it if he found it possible to get it provided at home.
By practising the recipes which are given in the following pages, and by utilizing the hints which accompany them, readers of this book will find no difficulty in acquiring the skill which is requisite to win many from the flesh-pots, even when they cannot be induced to abandon them from any higher motives than self-interest or gustatory enjoyment.
Every woman should resolve to learn how to feed her children with pure and harmless food. Every mother should make her daughters study this art and thus educate them to worthily fulfil their domestic responsibilities. Here is a new profession for women – for teachers of high-class fruitarian and hygienic cookery will soon be greatly in demand.
WHAT TO DO WHEN TRAVELLING
The difficulty of being properly catered for when staying at Hotels was formerly a very real one, but owing to the enlightenment concerning diet which is now taking place, and the rapid increase of foreign restaurants and cafés in English-speaking countries it is becoming lessened every day. The great variety of fleshless dishes now supplied in nearly all light-refreshment restaurants, in response to the public demand, is compelling even the largest Hotels to modify their cuisine accordingly.
For breakfast it is sometimes a good plan to order what one wants the previous night, if any specially cooked dishes are required, but it is not advisable to inform the waiter that one is a vegetarian. It is generally possible to obtain porridge, grilled tomatoes on toast, poached or fried eggs, stewed mushrooms, etc., without giving extra trouble or exciting comment. Where these cannot be obtained, a plain breakfast of brown bread or toast and butter, with eggs, preserves and fruit should be taken.
At large hotels in our chief cities a Restaurant and a Grill Room are provided. The food-reformer should go to one of these for his dinner, rather than to the dining room, as he will then be able to obtain various simple à la carte dishes. One 'portion' of any particular dish will often suffice for two persons, thus enabling those whose means are limited to obtain greater variety without increasing expenditure. Care has to be exercised, however, concerning certain dishes; for instance, if macaroni is required, it is well to ask the waiter to request the cook not to introduce any chopped ham. He should be told that you wish macaroni served with tomato sauce and cheese only, in the "Neapolitan" style.
In most Continental Hotels and Restaurants the simplest, cheapest, and best plan is to take 'table d'hôte' – telling the head waiter well beforehand that the lunch or dinner is required 'maigre' (that is without flesh, just as it is usually served during Lent). A varied, well selected, and ample repast will then be supplied at a moderate cost. The same plan is best in 'Pensions.'
The general rule to be adopted in small British hotels is to think beforehand what dishes the cook is in the habit of making which are free from flesh; these should be ordered in preference to those which are strange and not likely to be understood. At the same time it is well to insist upon being supplied with anything which it is reasonable to expect the proprietor to furnish, because such action tends to improve the catering of the hotels of the country, to make it easier for other food-reformers, and to sweep away the difficulty which at present exists in some towns, of obtaining anything fit to eat in the orthodox hotel coffee rooms, except beasts, birds, or fishes.
Railway Journeys. Those who are making railway journeys can easily provide themselves with a simple luncheon basket containing fruits, sandwiches made with flaked nuts, eggs, cheese or preserves, or with such delicacies as haricot or lentil potted meat (directions for making which will be found later on, in the section devoted to Luncheon Recipes.) Travellers may perhaps be reminded that cheese and nuts contain much more nutriment than lean meat.
Food-reformers who are about to pay a prolonged visit in a private house should inform the hostess, when accepting her invitation, that they are abstainers from flesh, but that their tastes are very simple and that they enjoy anything except flesh food. As she might have erroneous ideas about the requirements of vegetarians she might otherwise feel perplexed as to what to provide. If the visitor takes fish the fact should be stated.
No Faddism. Care should be taken not to involve the hostess in any needless trouble, and she should be shown, by the simplicity of one's requirements, that she is easily capable of affording complete satisfaction. When she realizes this, she will probably take pleasure in learning something about hygienic living, and will be ready to read a pamphlet or a guide-book upon the subject, and to produce some of the dishes contained in it.
The Humane Diet Cause has been much hindered by the 'fads' of persons who have adopted very extreme views about diet and who worry themselves and other people about trifling matters in connection with their food until they are almost regarded as being pests in a household. Instead of cheerfully partaking of anything that is provided, except flesh, they parade their scruples about almost everything on the table, and, consequently, those who entertain them vow that they will never become such nuisances themselves or entertain such again.
I have always found that by letting my friends clearly understand that I abstain from butchered flesh chiefly because of humane reasons and for the sake of principle, they respect my sentiment, and evince a desire to discuss the matter without prejudice. If fruitarianism is adopted merely as a 'fad,' discordant vibrations are often aroused because one's acquaintances consider that one is giving needless trouble by being unconventional without sufficient justification.
Sea Voyages. Those who are making a sea voyage will find that many of the large steamship companies are quite prepared to furnish substitutes for flesh-diet if an arrangement is made beforehand. In such cases there should be a clear stipulation that brown bread, dried and fresh fruit, nuts, farinaceous puddings, omelets, or dishes made with cheese, macaroni, lentils, haricots, tomatoes, etc., should be obtainable in some form and in sufficient variety. A list of a few 'specialities' (such as Protose, Nuttoria, &c.) should be furnished when a long voyage is contemplated, so that the steward may stock them.
ADVICE FOR BEGINNERS
The following suggestions will prove helpful to those who are desirous of adopting the reformed dietary: —
1. Give up flesh meat at once and entirely– replacing it by dishes made with eggs, cheese, macaroni, peas, lentils, nuts, and nut-meats. Later on you will be able to do without fish also, but it is best to proceed slowly and surely.
2. Eat less rather than more. Fruitarian foods such as the above are more nourishing than butcher's meat.
3. Try to like simple foods, instead of elaborate dishes that require much preparation. Avoid 'frying-panitis.'
4. Eat dry foods rather than sloppy ones; they are more easily digested. Take toast or Granose biscuits with porridge to assist proper salivation. If porridge causes trouble, use wheat or rye flakes (Manhu or Kellogg brands), with hot milk or cream, instead.
5. Do not mix stewed acid fruits with vegetables and legumes; take the former with cereals, cheese, or eggs. Green vegetables should be taken very sparingly, and with savoury dishes alone. If eaten with sweets they are apt to disagree.