Beeton's Book of Needlework

Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24.

This insertion is entirely embroidered in raised satin stitch; the dots and stems should be worked first, and the leaves afterwards. It is edged on both sides with a row of hem-stitching.

190.–Cigar Case.

Materials: Russia leather; fine silk cord; black purse silk; gold thread.

The material of this cigar case should be finely-embossed light brown Russia leather; the centre pattern to be embroidered in well-raised satin stitch with black purse silk. All the lighter outlines shown in the illustration are worked in gold thread. The border to be worked in fine silk cord of the same colour as the leather, with a network of black purse silk, stitched with gold at all the crossings. On the opposite side of the cigar case initials may be worked. The lining of light brown watered silk, or fine leather, and the mountings gilt or steel.

191.–Wicker Waste Paper Basket.

Materials: Basket and stand; coloured Berlin wools; cloth fringe; and glazed calico.

The basket may be of any size, but of the shape of the pattern. It rests upon two brass hooks fastened upon a stand. This stand can be made by any joiner, and should match the furniture of the room. The trimming consists of an embroidered border, lined with glazed calico, and put on round the edge; the lower part of the border is trimmed with a woollen fringe. The shades selected should correspond with the prevailing colour of the room.

192.–Insertion.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.

The edge of this insertion is worked in raised button-hole stitch, and embroidered in sharply-pointed scallops; the dotted line is worked in raised satin stitch, as are also the flowers which compose the centre wreath; the eyelet holes are worked in overcast stitch.

193 and 194.–Embroidered Linen Collars.

Materials: Double linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.

These patterns are to be worked on linen taken double. No. 194 is worked in button-hole, satin, and knotted stitch (see Nos. 81, 82, 76, and 73 of Embroidery Instructions), and point d'or with white cotton, and point Russe with black silk. No. 193 is worked entirely with white cotton in button-hole, satin, knotted ladder, and overcast stitch. (See Nos. 82, 76, 73, 81, and 68 of Embroidery Instructions.)

195 and 196.–What-not.

Materials: Fine canvas; 3 shades of violet floss silk; 4 shades of green floss silk; sea-green wool, or floss silk; 1 skein of yellow floss silk; green chenille; cord and tassels.

This small what-not or jewel-stand is very elegant. It is meant to place upon the toilet-table. No. 195 shows the hammock when completed, No. 196 one-half of the embroidery pattern in full size; it is worked upon fine canvas. The violets are in floss silk of three shades of violet, with a raised spot worked in yellow silk in the centre, the leaves are worked in Berlin wool of various shades of green, and the stems in overcast of a light green shade. The pattern is grounded in tent stitch with sea-green silk. The hammock is composed of two sides and an under-piece cut out in cardboard, covered with the embroidered canvas outside, lined and quilted with plain green silk inside. It is edged round the top with green chenille. The mounting is composed of bamboo-canes; the hammock is fastened on to it with green silk cord, finished off with tassels.

197.–Embroidered Handkerchief.

Materials: Grass lawn or French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.

This embroidery pattern is worked between the borders of a handkerchief, which may be either of French cambric or grass lawn. The design is simple, but effective, and very easy to work. If worked on fine French cambric, the handkerchief should be lightly tacked upon toile cirée. The rows of raised dots should be worked first, and then the graceful branches of pointed leaves in satin stitch. The plain round dots might be worked in bright red marking cotton in either of the patterns. To produce a good effect, rather fine cotton must be selected, and No. 40 will be found very effective on either lawn or cambric. For mourning wear, this pattern should be embroidered with black filoselle, or the leaves can be worked in white cotton, and the dots in filoselle.

198 and 199.–Two Medallions for a Purse in Embroidery.

Materials: Light brown russia leather; black, scarlet, and gold silk; steel or gold clasp.

These medallions are intended to ornament a small purse, but may be employed on a variety of articles.

The raised spots of No. 198 should be worked in black silk, in satin stitch, the branched sprays in point Russe in scarlet and gold, the four largest being in scarlet and the intermediate sprays in gold silk. Medallion No. 199 is worked entirely in point Russe, and may be embroidered in one colour, or in alternate branches of scarlet and gold, or scarlet and black.

200.–Work-Bag.

Materials: Drab cloth; small pieces of cloth of different colours; embroidery silk of different colours; scarlet satin; red silk braid; red cord; cardboard; cotton wool; and a strap of light-coloured leather.

This work-bag is made in the shape of a rolled-up plaid. The outside consists of drab cloth, trimmed with appliqué embroidery. The inside of the bag is slightly wadded and lined with red satin, which is quilted in diamonds. The seams are covered with red braid, and a leather strap completes the whole. Cut out a good pattern in paper, and then cut the satin and wadding and the drab cloth which forms the outside. After having traced the pattern on the cloth, work it with small pieces of coloured cloth in appliqué embroidery. The different figures are sewn over the centre partly in point Russe, partly in button-hole stitches, with embroidery silk. The stems in the middle are worked with silk in chain stitches. The colours may be chosen according to taste. Cut a pattern in cardboard, and fasten the drab cloth on it. The edge must be bordered with red satin, and the satin lining must be sewed in. The ends of the bag are likewise cut out of cardboard; the inside is wadded and lined with red satin; the outside worked in appliqué embroidery like the rest of the bag. All the seams are covered with red silk cord. The straps are fastened with a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.

201 to 203.–Pattern for Braces.

Materials: Java canvas; black silk; red wool; calico.

These braces are made of Java canvas lined with calico ornamented with embroidery in black silk and red wool, and edged on either side with loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes in red wool. Illustration 201 shows part of the embroidered braces, full size. Work first the embroidery of the braces, then line them with calico; work loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes on all the edges of the cross bands as well as at the top and bottom of these strips, and sew on the tabs for the braces between the lining and the canvas. The latter are then edged with button-hole stitch and crochet-vandykes. The vandykes are worked as follow–in one row: 1 double in 1 button-hole stitch, * 1 purl (3 chain, 1 double in the 1st), missing the next button-hole stitch under it; 1 double in the following button-hole stitch, repeat from *. The tabs are made of tape worked round with red button-hole stitch, with button-holes worked with red cotton. No. 203 shows another way of working these braces on fine ribbed piqué. Work any Berlin wool work pattern in the common cross stitch over the ribs of the piqué. For the vandyke border work in every other button-hole stitch, 2 double divided by 3 chain stitches.

204.–Embroidery Border for a Reading-Desk.

Materials: White silk rep; black velvet, rep, or cloth; gold and silver brocade; gold and silver braid; silk cord and thread.

This pattern is embroidered on white silk rep with silver and gold thread, and sewn on over a black velvet, rep, or cloth centre. The dark patterns are worked in appliqué with black velvet, the two other shades in gold and silver brocade. The embroidery is worked in satin stitch with gold and silver braid, silk and cord of the same material. The border can also be worked upon the material for the centre if it is not intended to contrast with it. The pattern can also be worked entirely in silk with satin stitch. The size of the border may, of course, be increased if desired, but the third pattern in the darkest shade must, in any case, form the centre of it.

205.–Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 6 and No. 12; net and muslin.

The pattern must first be traced on muslin, which is then tacked over net. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch, and the veinings are sewn over, using the coarse cotton for tracing; the muslin is then cut away all round the pattern.

206.–Venetian Border.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 12 and No. 16; net and muslin.

This design is elegant and effective, without there being a great deal of work in it. It is useful for tuckers for evening dresses or handkerchief borders. The muslin is laid over the net, sewn neatly over, and then cut away between the pattern, leaving the net for the ground work.

207.–Lace Insertion.

Materials: Fine black sewing silk; black Brussels net.

This lace insertion is first outlined in running stitch upon the net; the leaves are then darned across the net holes; the stems are worked in overcast stitch; the dots are embroidered by darning across the circle previously outlined; the lace stitches in the centre are formed by gently enlarging the net holes with a fine stiletto, and then sewn lightly round, the remaining holes being filled with lace stitches consisting of fine button-hole stitches, very evenly worked over the entire space surrounding the open holes.

To be effective the very finest black silk should be employed. This pattern may be worked in appliqué by placing muslin over net, sewing all the outlines in fine overcast stitch, and when finished, carefully cutting away the muslin.

208 and 209.–Slipper on Java Canvas.

Materials: Light brown Java canvas; green silk; green filoselle and purse silk; green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide; some wadding; 2 cork soles.

This slipper is very pretty, and easy to work. It is made of light brown Java canvas, and embroidered in point Russe with green filoselle. It is lined with green silk, and slightly quilted. The soles are of cork. The slipper is trimmed all round with a ruche of green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in double box pleats. The heel is turned down inside. No. 209 shows the pattern of the point Russe stitch nearly full size.

210 and 211.–Medallions in Point Russe.

Materials: Coloured filoselle, cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk.

These medallions can be alternated for ornamenting small covers, cushions, borders, &c. They are worked with coloured filoselle in point Russe, herring-bone stitch, coral stitch, and knotted stitch, on cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk. The middle oval of both medallions contrasts with the colour of the ground, and must therefore be worked in appliqué on the latter with herring-bone stitch, before working the outer border. The wreath on No. 211 is worked in coral stitch; the knots, which imitate small blossoms, in knotted stitch. The choice of colours is left to the personal taste of the worker.

212.–Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner.