Beeton's Book of Needlework

Materials: Black purse silk, or, for white trimming, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 2; tatting-pin No. 3; 3 hanks of beads No. 4 to the yard of border.

This border, edged with beads No. 4, is worked in middling-size purse silk over fine silk cord of the same colour as the silk. Before beginning to work this pattern, thread the beads which take the place of purl stitches, and which are slipped in between two double stitches. When the row of stitches is of the length required, form the trefoil leaves, and sew a few beads over the places where they are joined. These trefoil leaves are made separately, and then sewn together.

14.–Insertion in Tatting.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10; tatting-pin No. 3; any sized shuttle; for a finer insertion No. 18 or 20.

1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a double thread is used, and commence by working 10 double stitches, 1 purl, 10 double, draw up. Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left hand, work 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.

2nd oval: 10 double, join to purl of 1st oval, 10 double, draw up. Repeat till the length required is worked, then cut off.

For the fresh length, which will make the other half of the insertion, the shuttle must still be attached to the reel. Commence by working–

1st oval: 10 double, join to the purl which connects the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double, draw up.

Double thread: 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double.

2nd oval: 10 double, join to the same purl as last–namely, the one connecting the first and second ovals of the piece already worked, 10 double, draw up. Repeat, joining the two next ovals to the purl which connects the two next in the piece already worked, and so on.

Crochet a heading each side, working 7 chain, 1 double into the purl of double thread, repeat. With a heading on one side only, this makes a pretty wide edging.

15.–Border in Tatting and Crochet.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40, and crochet cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 3.

This lace is rendered stronger by the crochet rows of scallops and treble stitch round the edge. Begin with the tatting as follows: Make a circle of 8 double, 7 purl divided by 2 double, 8 double. This circle is repeated at a distance of about three-fourths of an inch, only instead of the 1st purl each following circle must be fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle. Then take some crochet cotton, which must be finer than the cotton used for tatting, and work a row of double stitches over the thread which joins the circles. The number of stitches depends on the length and size of the cotton; work double stitches round the circles at the place where both ends meet. The outer row consists of treble stitches, which are worked with 1 chain stitch between, missing 1 stitch under each chain. The scallops consist of the two following rows:–1 double, with which the last and first purl of 2 circles are joined, 4 chain; in each of the other purl, 1 double, 4 chain, between 2 double stitches.

2nd row: 1 double in each chain stitch scallop, 1 double, 3 long double, 1 double.

16 and 17.–Lady's Veil in Net and Tatting.

This veil is slightly gathered in front and fastened to the brim of the bonnet. It is tied at the back under the chignon. The veil is of black silk net. The flowrets are tatted with black purse silk, and worked in appliqué over the tulle. The veil is edged round with a tatted lace made with the same silk. For the patterns and lace and instructions, see Nos. 18 and 19. No. 16 shows the way in which the veil is worn upon the bonnet, and No. 17 shows its shape when stretched out.

18 and 19.–Patterns in Tatting.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 120 for a white veil; fine black silk for a black veil; tatting-pin No. 2.

The patterns Nos. 18 and 19 are meant for ornamenting the veil No. 16. They are sewn upon the net at regular distances.

For working the pattern No. 18, make with black silk or white cotton 6 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, at the end 1 purl, then join the stitch into a circle, *fasten the silk on to the next purl. Then 1 spot or Josephine knot, consisting of 6 plain stitches, carry the shuttle downwards through the loop, and draw the stitches close together; repeat 3 times more from *. Fasten the silk on to the next purl, and work a circle as follows:–8 times 2 double, divided by 1 purl; fasten the silk on to the next purl, work again 1 spot, after which the silk is fastened, then work 2 more similar circles divided by 1 spot; they are fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle instead of the 1st purl. Fasten off the silk after the last circle.

For No. 19 work 25 double, divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into a circle, knot the beginning and the end of the cotton together, cut off the ends at a short distance. Then work a smaller circle, consisting of 8 double, divided by 1 purl; at the place of the 1st purl fasten the cotton at a short distance on to the 2nd purl of the large circle. The ends of this circle are knotted together and cut off in the same way. Then work a circle consisting of 11 double, fasten the silk on to the 20th purl of the large circle, work 5 double, and join the stitches into a circle. Then take the ends of the 3 circles, and work close fine stitches with silk round them, so as to form the stem. The completed pattern is sewn upon the net.

20 and 21.–Diamond Pattern and Circle in Tatting, for Trimming Linen Collars, Cuffs, &c..

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No 30; tatting-pin No. 3.

20.–DIAMOND PATTERN.–

Work, not far one from the other, four leaves, each composed of 5 double stitches, 7 rather long purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, 5 double stitches. Instead of making the 1st purl in each of the 3 next leaves, fasten the cotton to the last leaf of preceding leaf. Fasten off and cut the cotton; begin a fresh circle by 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the centre purl of one of the four leaves, and work a very small circle thus:–2 double stitches, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the first circle, 3 double stitches, 1 purl, 2 double stitches; fasten the cotton * to the 6th purl of the leaf; work a larger circle thus:–2 double stitches fastened to the purl of the small circle, 2 double stitches, 4 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to the second purl of the second leaf; work another small circle similar to that above-described; fasten the cotton to the third purl of the second leaf, then to the fourth purl of the same leaf, and repeat from * three times more, always fastening the first purl of the first circle you are working (each time you repeat the pattern) to the purl of the last small circle last worked; fasten off and cut the cotton.

21.–CIRCLE.–

Begin it in the centre by working a circle of 8 purl, rather long, divided one from the other by 2 double stitches. After you have fastened off and cut the cotton, work * one very small circle composed of 3 double stitches, 1 long purl, 3 double stitches; fasten the cotton not far off to the first purl of the circle, and repeat from * 7 times more, at regular distances. Fasten off and cut the cotton, and begin * a fresh circle of 2 double stitches, 7 purl divided each by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the purl of the very small circle, and work, not far off, a circle of 2 double stitches, 2 purl divided by 2 double stitches, 2 more double stitches; fasten the cotton to the purl of the next small circle, and repeat from * 7 times more. Instead of making the first purl of the next large circle, fasten the cotton to the last purl of the small circle.

22.–Border in Tatting and Crochet.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20; tatting-pin No. 3.

Begin this border with one of the smaller circles consisting of * 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; work a large circle at a short distance, 5 double, 4 times 1 purl divided by 2 double, 5 double; close to this circle another as follows:–5 double, fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 5 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double; a third circle as follows:–5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 3 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double; the cotton is fastened a short distance further on to the second purl of the first worked small circle, which must be turned downwards; then turn the work so that the three circles which are joined together are turned downwards. Work another small circle as follows at the distance of two-fifths of an inch:–4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, leave again an interval of about two-fifths of an inch, and repeat from * till the lace is long enough; but in working the following figures, consisting of three circles, the 1st circle must be fastened on to the last purl of the 3rd circle at the place of the 1st purl. Complete the tatting with the 2 following rows of crochet:–* 1 slip stitch in the purl of one of the small circles turned upwards, 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the next purl, 4 chain; repeat from *. In the following row work 1 double in every stitch.

23.–Insertion in Tatting and Lace Stitch.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 80; tatting-pin No. 3.

This insertion forms a very pretty standing-up collar when worked with fine cotton and a coloured ribbon drawn through. It consists of 2 rows of 3 branched figures turned opposite one another, which are worked separately and then joined into a row. Work 9 times as follows:–2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, * draw into a circle and * work at a short distance a 2nd circle as follows:–2 double fastened on to the last purl of the 1st circle, 8 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, repeat once more from *, knot together the two ends of the cotton, and fasten them on the wrong side. One figure is thus completed; each following figure is fastened on to the preceding one on the middle purl of a circle (see illustration). When a sufficient number of such figures have been worked, work a 2nd row of them in the same manner, and fasten from illustration each middle circle of one figure on to the corresponding circle of the 1st row. The circles filled with lace stitch are worked when the 2 rows are completed from illustration in the empty places between 4 patterns; work first 3 double, fasten them on to a purl on the side of a leaf turned inside, * 3 double, fasten them on to a purl of the next leaf, repeat 5 times more from *, work 3 double, join the stitches into a circle, but not too close, so that the purls keep their natural position; cut off the cotton, and fasten the two ends on the wrong side. The lace stitch inside of these circles is worked with fine crochet cotton; the pattern may be changed for a single or double wheel.

24.–Insertion in Tatting.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30; tatting-pin No. 3.

Begin by working separately a sufficient number of small rosettes, each composed of six ovals of double stitches and purl. These ovals are worked first in a straight row, then they are joined into a circle and united in the centre by button-hole stitches. The rosettes are joined together with fine cotton. The crochet border is then worked on either side in chain stitches and treble crochet, as seen in illustration.

25.–Centre of a Tatted Couvrette.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20, or crochet cotton No. 1; tatting-pin No. 2.

This illustration shows the centre of a tatted couvrette in full size, and measuring 12 inches across. Separate rosettes like the pattern may be joined together with smaller ones, and form a very pretty couvrette. The pattern is worked in rounds. Begin the rosette with a circle, consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, 1 purl, 4 double. Take up another shuttle, and work over the cotton on it, fasten the end on the last double of the circle and work over it, beginning close to the circle, 6 plain, 1 circle like the 1st worked with the 1st shuttle, and which is fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle at the place of the 1st purl; 6 plain, and continue to work so alternately till you have 7 circles divided by 6 plain stitches. Draw up very tightly the cotton over which you work, so that the circles form a rosette, which is closed by sewing together the two corresponding purl of the first and last circle. Both the ends of the cotton over which you have worked are knotted together. For the 2nd round, fasten the cotton on one shuttle on the middle purl of a circle, work a circle like those of the 1st round, take up the 2nd shuttle, and work on exactly as in the 1st round, only work 8 plain between the circles over the cotton on the 2nd shuttle. The 2nd round consists of 15 circles; the cotton with which you work must be fastened at the required places on the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round. The 3rd and following rounds are worked in the same manner; the number of circles must be such as to keep the couvrette quite flat. In the pattern the 3rd round has 26 circles. Fasten the cotton well after each round.

26.–Tatted Lace.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30; tatting-pin No. 2.

This very simple lace consists of scallops which look as if they were slightly gathered. It must be worked with tatting cotton. Each scallop consists of 5 plain, 1 purl, 5 plain, then alternately 5 purled stitches, draw up these stitches till the cotton between the 1st and last stitch is two-fifths of an inch long, and work a 2nd similar scallop at a short distance from the 1st. But in the following scallops fasten each to the last purl of the preceding scallop instead of working the 1st purl.

27.–Tatted Lace.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50 or 80; tatting-pin No. 3.

This pretty lace is worked with fine tatting cotton. Work with 2 threads; the knots are worked over the cotton, which is held in the right hand. Work first the outer scallops of the lace.

Fasten both ends of cotton together and make 10 double, divided by 1 purl, turn the work so as to turn the wrong side upwards, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the last purl, go back over the same row, miss 1 purl next to the cotton with which you work, 9 double divided by 1 purl, fastening the cotton over which you work on the next purl of the 1st row after every double stitch. This forms 1 scallop. * Turn the work downwards (that is, the purl stitch must be turned downwards), make 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 1 purled stitch: this is the straight row between 2 outer scallops of the lace. Then work a scallop like the preceding one, fastening it from illustration after the first row on the middle one of the 9 outer purl of the preceding scallop, with the cotton over which you work; repeat from * till the lace is long enough, and fasten the cotton. Knot both ends together again, fasten the cotton over which you work on the first purl of the first scallop, make 9 double, 1 short purl, 1 double, turn so that the upper edge of the row is turned downwards, and the scallops upwards, 5 double, fasten the 2 middle purl of the 4 of the next straight row together by drawing the cotton, with which you are working through the 2nd purl, so as to form a loop, draw the cotton over which you work through this loop and draw up the latter; work 5 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the short purl worked after 9 double, turn the work so that the outer scallops of the lace are turned downwards, 10 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the first purl of the next scallop, repeat from *, and fasten the cotton. After having fastened both ends together again, turn the work the right side upwards and the outer scallops upwards also, fasten the cotton over which you work on to the short purl which is under the first loop; * work 4 times 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, fasten the cotton over which you work on the purl under the next loop, and repeat from * till the lace is completed.

28.–Collar in Tatting and Darned Netting.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 3; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s French embroidery cotton No. 60; square netting.

The pattern is worked with very fine cotton; the netted grounding over a mesh measuring two-fifths of an inch round. The collar is ornamented round the outer edge with a tatted lace. Work a straight strip of netting for the grounding; begin with 2 stitches, work 18 rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 at the end of each row, so that the last row has 19 holes; work 1 row without increasing; then continue to work with the same number of stitches, increasing 1 at the end of one row and decreasing 1 at the end of the other. When the strip is sufficiently long, work 1 row again without increasing or decreasing, and form the side by making 18 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of each, cast off the 2 last stitches on 1 stitch without forming a new stitch on the needle. Trace the outline of the collar on the grounding with thick cotton, and begin to darn it from illustration. When the darning is completed work the tatted lace with the same cotton, as follows:–6 double, 1 short purl, alternately, 3 times 3 double, 1 purl, 6 double, draw up the stitch so as to form a scallop leaving one-fifth of an inch between the first and last stitch; work a second scallop at a short distance from the first, and so on; every scallop is fastened on to the preceding one after the first 3 double stitches. Work a row of double overcast stitch between the darned netting and the tatted lace; work this row over the cotton tracing, marking the outline of the collar on the grounding and over the cotton between the tatted scallops. Work also a row of double overcast round the neck part, gathering in the collar a little if necessary. Cut away the netting on the wrong side close to the row of overcast stitches.