The Irish Farmers’ Market Cookbook

Frank started out in the early eighties alongside many of the early cheese makers and other artisan food producers. His motivation for going into salmon smoking wasn’t passion (that came later), but an eye for a good business opportunity. He grew up in Cobh where there was a strong fishing – and fish processing – culture and he needed to make a living. Like the farmers who turned their surplus of milk into cheese, Frank saw smoking as a good way to add value to salmon and other fish.

In 1996 he started trading at his first outdoor market, the Coal Quay Market – now known as Cornmarket – although locals still call it Coal Quay. A year later he was one of the pioneers at Temple Bar (a market in central Dublin). In at the beginning of the food revolution with a great product, Frank soon had stalls in Holywood, Co. Down, and eventually at other markets around Co. Dublin. The English market was a natural progression as he developed retail outlets and grew the business. He took a stall when Midleton Market started in 2000 and still sells there, as well as at Mahon Point and Cobh. When I first started at Midleton Market, I didn’t have the cash to invest in a proper umbrella and stall, but Frank bought them for me without question and allowed me to pay him back when my stall got busier. It taught me that farmers’ markets aren’t just about making money but that they are also about camaraderie and community – may this ethos stay alive. I would like to take this opportunity to say thank you to Frank for his unquestioning support throughout my days at the markets.

Frank’s stall selling smoked fish and patés.

Belvelly is always looking for ways to develop new products. Recently they have produced smoked mussels marinated in vinaigrette, which are delicious just as they are, great in salads or on hot buttered brown toast canapés. The marinated mussels are also sold in pure olive oil, so that they can be used in hot dishes too. I think they are a fantastic idea for all cooks looking for that little extra inspiration. Rich and flavoursome, just two to four per person would flavour chowder, a risotto, or a leek tart.

Frank’s Smoked Eel with Celeriac and Crème Fraîche (#ulink_ba9a272f-4718-5c99-8b67-27b587db5957)

It has been said by many renowned food writers that Frank Hederman (see previous pages) does the best smoked eel in the world – and I agree.

Serves 4

1 small celeriac

200ml (7fl oz) crème fraîche

50g (2 oz) whole hazelnuts

salt and freshly ground black pepper

butter

8 brown bread slices

20cm (8in) piece smoked eel

Peel and grate the celeriac. Blanch by placing in a saucepan of boiling water for 2 minutes, then drain well. Fold the celeriac through the crème fraîche.

Roast the hazelnuts in a preheated oven at 200°C, 400°F, Gas Mark 6 for 10 minutes. Leave them to cool slightly before chopping finely and folding through the crème fraîche and celeriac. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Butter the brown bread, lay the smoked eel on top and add a spoonful of the creamed celeriac.

Summer Fish Stew (#ulink_54af762f-a253-50a9-8018-d3189c0c8361)

I throw in the rice so I don’t have to worry about providing side dishes, but if you don’t like rice, just omit it and serve the dish with piping hot boiled potatoes.

Serves 4

800g (1lb 10 oz) white fish (e.g. ling, pollock, etc., including bones and heads), filleted and cut into small chunks

1.7 litres (3 pints) water

2 black peppercorns

1 bay leaf

1 carrot, sliced

1 onion, sliced

2 tbsp olive oil

2 garlic cloves

1 onion, finely chopped

2.5cm (1in) fresh root ginger, peeled and crushed

250ml (9 fl oz) white wine

400g (14 oz) passata (sieved tomatoes)

1 tsp turmeric

1 tsp paprika

10 black olives, stoned and chopped

8 cherry tomatoes, halved

225g (8 oz) rice

juice of 1 lime

salt and freshly ground black pepper

bunch of fresh basil, torn

First, make the fish stock. Place the fish bones and heads in a large saucepan and cover with the water. Throw in the peppercorns, bay leaf, sliced carrot and onion. Bring to the boil and leave to simmer, uncovered, for 30–40 minutes. Strain well.

Place a heavy-bottomed saucepan over a medium heat, pour in the olive oil, and then add the garlic, chopped onion and ginger. Cover and sweat for 2 minutes. Remove the lid and add the white wine, passata, turmeric, paprika, olives, cherry tomatoes, 150ml (5fl oz) of the fish stock and the rice. Leave to cook for 10 minutes. Add the fish and cook for a further 5 minutes until cooked through.

Squeeze in the lime juice, season with salt and pepper and stir in the fresh basil leaves. Serve in bowls with some white chunky bread on the side to soak up all the delicious juices!

Tip: Making fresh fish stock makes a huge difference to the overall taste of the stew and it uses up all the bones that would ordinarily be thrown out. It is preferable to use white fish, rather than oily varieties, which can be pungent and gelatinous. If you don’t have the time to make fish stock ask at your local good food store which is the best brand of fish stock to buy.

Pan-fried Black Sole with Wild Garlic Butter (#ulink_8d9af153-fe3d-5d80-bc1e-b169049d6162)

Wild garlic is in season in spring. The leaves are delicious to cook with and the edible flowers are fantastic for decorating the plate.

Serves 2

4 fillets of black sole

wild garlic flowers

salt and freshly ground black pepper