A Guide-Book of Florida and the South for Tourists, Invalids and Emigrants

Boarding Houses.– Mrs. Freeland, Mrs. Hodgson, Mrs. Alderman opposite the Taylor House, and many others.

Newspapers. The Florida Union, repub.; Mercury and Floridian; Florida Land Register.

Bookseller.– Columbus Drew, publisher of Brinton’s Guide-Book of Florida and the South. Mr. Drew makes a specialty of keeping works on Florida.

Churches of all the principal denominations.

Jacksonville, so named after General Andrew Jackson, has now a population of 7,000 souls, and is rapidly increasing that number. It is destined to be the most important city in Florida, as it is already the largest. It is located between two creeks which fall into the St. John about a mile and a quarter apart. These form the present corporation limits, but several suburbs or additions have been recently formed beyond these streams. Brooklyn and Riverside are on the bank southwest of the town; Scottsville, immediately east of the eastern creek, is the principal location of the large saw mills which constitute one of the most important industries of the city; Wyoming is on the bluff one and a half miles northeast; and finally La Villa is a small suburb on an island to the west.

Many of the residences of Jacksonville are substantially built of brick manufactured from native clay, but wood is the prevailing material. Several handsome residences are conspicuous from the river, and every season a number of elegant cottages are added to the town. It is a favorite residence for invalids during the winter months, on account of its superior accommodations and ease of access. Indeed, too many of them remain here who would be improved by a nearer approach to the extreme south. The sight of so many sick often affects one unfavorably.

The streets of Jacksonville are sandy, and the vicinity only moderately fertile. The health of the city is good at all seasons, miasmatic disease not being common. There was an epidemic of yellow fever in 1857, but it has never since returned.

During the war Jacksonville suffered severely. It was first partially burned by the Confederates, then three separate times occupied by the Union troops, the third time catching fire in the assault. About half a dozen blocks of houses were then burned, including the Catholic and Episcopal churches. Of course the result of these experiences was little short of desolation. Grass grew waist high in the streets, and the few cattle that remained found for themselves stalls in the deserted stores and houses. Now, however, one can hardly credit the fact that such was ever the case.

Steamboats leave Jacksonville for Enterprise (206 miles), about every other day. One line is owned by Capt. Brock, who for many years has run the steamer “Darlington” up and down the river. The accommodations on all the steamers are fair, and no one should omit to make the round trip, even if he does not tarry on the road. Fare to Enterprise, $9.00.

About a mile above this city the river widens once more. The banks are usually 3 or 4 feet high, thickly set with live oak, pine and cypress. Here and there the pine barren cuts across the hammock to the river. In such places the banks are 8 or 10 feet high, and the tall yellow pine with an abundant undergrowth of palmetto gives same variety to the otherwise monotonous view. 15 miles from Jacksonville, on the left (east) hand is the small town of

MANDARIN

Post Office. No hotel. Boarding can be had with Mr. Chas. F. Reed, near the landing. Mr. Foote, the postmaster, will give further information about the chance for accommodations in private families. A new School house and church. The name is said to have been derived from the Mandarin or China orange introduced here. This little place has about a dozen houses and a back country three or four miles in extent. The location is pleasing and the soil good. Several flourishing orange groves can be seen from the river. One of them about six acres in extent is owned by Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, who has a pleasant country house here, and visits it every winter. It stands close to the river, on a bluff about 12 feet high. A little higher up the river the Marquis de Talleyrand has laid out handsome grounds.

This is one of the localities associated with the atrocities of border warfare. In December, 1841, the Seminole Indians attacked and burnt the town and massacred the inhabitants almost to the last soul. “For sixteen hours,” says Captain Sprague in his account of the occurrence, “the savages, naked and painted, danced around the corpses of the slain.”

Above Mandarin the river narrows and then again expands, the banks continuing of the same character. Ten miles above, on the right (west) bank is

HIBERNIA

*Hotel, Mrs. Fleming, one of the best on the river, accommodates about 35 persons, $2.50 per day, $15.00 per week. This very pleasant spot is on an island, about five miles long, immediately north of the entrance of Black Creek. It is separated from the mainland by a body of water known as Doctor’s Lake, which, toward its southern extremity, is lost in a broad marsh. The “river walk” near the boarding house is a delightful promenade about three-fourths of a mile long under the spreading branches of noble live oaks. The hotel is near the landing, which is on the east side of the island. Visitors can readily obtain boats, and the vicinity offers many attractive spots for short excursions, picnics, and fishing parties. Rooms should be engaged by letter.

Three miles above Hibernia is

MAGNOLIA

This large building was erected by Dr. Benedict in 1851 with special reference to the wants of invalids, and their treatment under medical supervision. During the war it was used for various purposes and was much injured, but it has now been thoroughly refitted by a company, and placed under the charge of Dr. Rogers, formerly of Worcester, Mass., a capable and judicious physician, who proposes to continue it as a sanitarium. The building can accommodate comfortably about 50 boarders. The position is agreeable, a majestic oak grove shading the grounds, while at a little distance the pine forest scatters its aromatic odors in the air.

Divided from it by a small creek, but 2 miles above as the river runs, is

GREEN COVE SPRING

Hotels. Green Cove House, by Mr. J. Ramington, and boarding houses by Captain Henderson, and Captain Glinskie, all said to be well kept; fare about $15.00 per week. This spring has been long celebrated for its mineral properties. It is sulphurous, and has been found of value in chronic rheumatism, cutaneous disease and dyspepsia. The temperature is 78 Fah. at all seasons. The basin varies in diameter from 35 to 40 feet at different points. The water rushes up with force forming what is called the “boil.” Recently a portion of the bottom of the spring gave way, and the orifice through which the water rises was covered. But the earth was cleared out, and the “boil” re-instated. Facilities for bathing are afforded, though not to that extent which were desirable.

12 miles above green Cove on the left bank is

PICOLATA

Boarding with Mr. T. F. Bridier. This is the station where passengers to St. Augustine land. It is much to be regretted that there is no hotel here, and only poor and insufficient accommodations in the house owned by the stage company. Usually but one line of stages runs to St. Augustine, and they are often densely crowded, and most uncomfortable. A second line was put on in Jan., 1869. The usual fare to St. Augustine is $3.00; distance 18 miles. By competition it has been reduced to $1.00.

FROM PICOLATA TO ST. AUGUSTINE

the road leads through an open pine country with an undergrowth of palmettoes. Here and there a clump of cypress, with a tangled mass of briars and vines around their trunks, diversifies the scene. The soil is miserably poor, and hardly a dozen houses are passed in the whole distance. Deep white sand obstructs the stage, and not so rarely as one wishes the wheels strike a pine or palmetto root with a most unpleasant effect upon the passengers, especially if they are invalids. After 3½ hours of this torture, the stage is checked by the Sebastian river, over which a miserable ferry boat conveys the exhausted tourist who at length finds himself in St. Augustine.

ST. AUGUSTINE

Hotels: Florida House (dear and poor,) Magnolia House, fine piazza (grounds recently fitted up.) About $4.00 per day, slight reduction by the month.

Boarding Houses: Mrs. Abbot, Mrs. Fatio, Mrs. Gardner, Mrs. Brava, Miss Dummitt. Charges, $15.00 to $20.00 per week. As a rule, the tables of the boarding houses are better kept than those of the hotels. Families can rent houses by the month, and sometimes furnished rooms, and thus live much cheaper. Apply to B. E. Carr, J. L. Phillips, or John Long.

Billiard Saloon, at Delot’s Restaurant.

Post Office on the Plaza, mail tri-weekly. Telegraph office near the market house on the Plaza.

Newspaper—St. Augustine Examiner, weekly. Reading Room at the editor’s office, 25 cts. a week.

Drug Store– Dr. J. P. Mackay.

Military Music– On the Plaza every other night.

Churches– Roman Catholic, Episcopal, Presbyterian, Methodist chapel opposite the Magnolia House, Colored Baptist.

Bathing-House, on Bay Street, white flag for ladies, red flag for gentlemen, on alternate days. Season ticket $5.00.

Local Histories.– *Fairbanks, The Spaniards in Florida, (1868, the best, published by Columbus Drew, Jacksonville, Fla.); Sewall, Sketches of St. Augustine, 1848, (illustrated); St. Augustine, Florida, by an English visitor, (1869, by Mrs. Yelverton; inaccurate).

St. Augustine (population 1,200 white, 600 black), the oldest settlement in the United States, was founded in 1565, by Pedro Menendez, a Spanish soldier, born in the city of Aviles. The site originally chosen was south of where the city now stands, but the subsequent year (1566) a fort was erected on the present spot. It received its name because Menendez first saw the coast of Florida on St. Augustine’s day.

Little is known of its early history. In 1586 it was burned by Sir Francis Drake; and in 1665, Captain Davis, an English buccaneer, sacked and plundered it without opposition, the inhabitants, numbering at that time a few hundred, probably fleeing to the fort. This building, which had formerly been of logs, was commenced of stone about 1640.

As it was found that the sea was making inroads upon the town, about the end of the seventeenth century, a sea-wall was commenced by the Spanish Governor, Don Diego de Quiroga y Losada, extending from the Fort to the houses, all of which, at that time, were south of the Plaza. The top of this first sea-wall can still be seen in places along Bay street, occupying nearly the middle of the street.

Early in the last century, the English in Carolina, in alliance with the Creek (Muskoki) Indians commenced a series of attacks on the Spanish settlements. In 1702, Governor Moore made a descent on St. Augustine by land and sea, burnt a portion of the town, and destroyed all the plantations in the vicinity. The inhabitants once more fled to the castle, which, we are told, was surrounded by a very deep and broad moat. But the priests had not time to remove the church plate. This, and much other booty, fell into Gov. Moore’s hands – all of which he kept for himself to the great disgust of his companions in arms.

Again, in 1725, Col. Palmer, of Carolina, at the head of 300 whites and Indians attacked and ravaged the Spanish settlements, completely annihilating their field-husbandry, burning the country houses, and forcing the inhabitants of St. Augustine to flee as usual to the castle.

In 1732, Governor Oglethorpe founded the colony of Georgia, on the Savannah river. Eight years afterwards he made his memorable attack on St. Augustine. At that date the city numbered 2,143 inhabitants, including the garrison (the latter probably about one half the whole number.) The city was intrenched, with salient angles and redoubts, the space enclosed being about half a mile long and quarter of a mile wide. The castle mounted 50 pieces of brass cannon. Its walls were of stone, casemated, with four bastions. The moat was 40 feet wide, and twelve feet deep. Governor Oglethorpe, therefore, undertook a difficult task when he set out in midsummer to besiege a place of this strength. He planted his principal batteries on Anastasia island, where their remains are still distinctly traceable, and bombarded castle and city with considerable vigor for 20 days. He discovered, however, to his mortification, that his shot produced hardly any more effect on the coquina rock of which the walls were built, than on so much sand. After prolonging the siege 38 days, (June 13 – July 20, 1740,) he withdrew.

The exterior of the works was finally completed by Don Alonzo Fernando Hereda, in 1756, since which time no alterations of importance have been made.

St. Augustine, always the capital of the province during the Spanish supremacy, changed hands with the whole peninsula in 1763, 1781, and 1821. It had a temporary prosperity during the first Seminole war, when it was used as a military and naval station. In 1862 the naval force of the United States took possession of it, without resistance, and a garrison of New Hampshire volunteers was stationed there.

A large percentage of the natives show traces of Spanish blood. They are usually embraced under the name “Minorcans.”

In 1767 a speculative Englishman, Dr. Turnbull, brought over a colony of about 1200 Greeks, Italians, Corsicans and Minorcans, and settled near New Smyrna. After a few years, wearied with his tyranny, most of those who survived, – not more in all than 600, – removed to St. Augustine. They were a quiet, somewhat industrious, and ignorant people, and many of their descendants much mixed in blood still live in St. Augustine. Their language is fast dying out. The young people speak only English. The following verse from the Fromajardis, or Easter Song, was written down in 1843. The italic e is the neutral vowel.

“Sant Gabiel
Qui portaba la ambasciado
Dee nostro rey del cel,