Danny Beer. Tourist on Wheels. A European Adventure

Thursday March 15, 2007, 106 km (66 miles) – Total so far: 1,912 km (1,188 miles)

Back out on the heavy highway shoulders are non-existent but drivers aren’t as unfriendly as the neighbors to the north. The second dog to chase you in Bulgaria appears. This one has four legs and is a little more vicious. But probably safer all the same.

You stop for a bike to eat. A girl sits nearby. “Sex?” She asks. You turn crimson. She comes over to make matters a little more awkward than they already are. For readers reference the price was fifty levi which is about twenty five euros. You decline her services. The price drops to twenty levi. You should go before you change your mind.

Later at another restaurant sop you see another girl. This one is obviously working. Is that her young daughter in a mini-skirt? No, it’s just a midget. A working midget? No, you really shouldn’t.

At around four you see three girls standing beside the road. The first makes a minor effort to flaunt her wares. The second chases after you, shouting to stop. And you have a hill to climb. But those boots are made for walking, not running. The third girl, over the next rise, has very manly features. She doesn’t make any attempt to seduce. You leave the girls to flag down some truckies.

Perhaps you are just wearisome but it appears that traffic is less friendly in late evenings. A car waits for a better time to pass but the truck behind it is less patient, honking to indicate its unacceptance.

You make it to Velico Tarnovo. You find the quite empty hostel and head into town for some food and a beer or three.

The town looks a little different from when you were last here five years ago.

Velico Turnov.: Rest day

Saturday March 17, 2007, 10 km (6 miles) – Total so far: 2,044 km (1,270 miles)

A rest day today sees you visit the fortress and a museum. It is all very nice. Later you ride up to a nearby town. There is an old church with frescos. But it is a rest day so you don’t want to exert yourself too much. After all, you do have a lot of climbing to do tomorrow as you make your way south towards Plovdiv. And you never know how many girls will be chasing after you.

On the way to Stara Zagora.: A nice night to pitch the tent

Saturday March 17, 2007, 122 km (76 miles) – Total so far: 2,044 km (1,270 miles)

The hostel breakfast is just too good. You just don’t want to leave. Never-the-less, you do. The hostel was difficult to find. There are no signs. Apparently a hotel nearby kept taking them down. The hotel manager dissuades you from your chosen route. “Too dangerous’ he says. “Too windy’, ‘too steep’.

Instead you are sent on a road though longer, has less traffic and is not so steep. Apparently. Either way there is still a mountain to cross. And sure it’s a long way up but the ride down is great!

The Cyrillic signs are difficult to follow. Sometimes an Anglo equivalent is given but often not. You head to Stara Zagora. You spot another road, heading roughly in the same direction, still in good condition and minus the traffic. A nearby Sheppard confirms both roads head to the same town. So you take the traffic free one. But the Sheppard wants payment for his services. A candy bar perhaps but you don’t have any so you just go.