Travels Through North America, During the Years 1825 and 1826. v. 1-2

To my great astonishment, I learned that there were gambling-houses even here, kept by Frenchmen, and that each in the city paid a yearly tax of one thousand dollars for a license. I was told that respectable merchants were in the habit of going there to have an eye over their clerks, and also to observe what mechanics, or other small tradesmen, played here, to stop giving credit to such as haunted the resorts of these gentry. I was taken to two of these gambling-houses, which are united with coffee-houses, to see how they were conducted. In one of them were two roulette tables, in two separate rooms, in the other, which was smaller, one roulette and one pharo table. There was betted here silver and paper, but not more than twenty dollars bank notes, and most of them did not bet more than a dollar a time. A couple of young fellows lost all that they had, and behaved very indecently when they were stripped of their money. Several of the better sort appeared to be country people, who had brought their corn and cotton to market, and only played off their profits. At one of the tables sat some common sailors, half drunk. We found rather low company collected in both houses, and our curiosity was soon satisfied. It is to be hoped, that the legislature of Alabama will prohibit such houses. They are, on the whole, very good places for recruiting the army and navy!

CHAPTER XIX

Journey to New Orleans, and Residence in that City

On the 18th of January, we embarked in the schooner Emblem, whose cabin was proportioned to her tonnage, (which was but fifty tons,) but comfortably high, and well ornamented. The sides were of mahogany and maple; on each side were two state-rooms, with two births each; the back part of the cabin, being something higher than the forward part, contained a birth on each side. Of these, the starboard was occupied by Mr. Bowdoin, the other by myself.

The shores of Mobile Bay, which is very wide, are low and overgrown with wood, before us lay a long island, called Isle Dauphine, by the unfortunate Delasalle, who discovered it. Mobile point lies to the left, where, after sunset, we beheld the light in the light-house. There stood on this point in the late war a small fort, called Fort Bowyer, which the present Lieutenant-Colonel, then Major Lawrence, gallantly defended, with a garrison of one hundred and thirty men, against eight hundred disembarked English sailors and Seminole Indians, under Major Nichols. The assailants were defeated, after their ordnance was dismounted, with considerable loss, and the English corvette Hermes, which covered the attack, was blown up by the well-directed fire of the fort. In February, 1815, this brave officer found himself obliged to yield to superior force, and to capitulate to Admiral Cockburn, who was on his return from the unsuccessful expedition to New Orleans. This was the last act of hostility that occurred during that war. Fort Bowyer is since demolished, and in its stead a more extensive fortress is erecting, which we would willingly have inspected, had the wind been more favourable, and brought us there earlier. We steered between Mobile Point and Dauphin Island, so as to reach the Mexican gulf, and turning then to the right, southward of the Sandy Islands, which laid along the coast, sailed towards Lake Borgne. Scarcely were we at sea, when a strong wind rose from the west, which blew directly against us. We struggled nearly the whole night to beat to windward, but in vain. The wind changed to a gale, with rain, thunder, and lightning. The main-topmast was carried away, and fell on deck. The mate was injured by the helm striking him in the side, and was for a time unfit for duty. On account of the great bustle on deck, the passengers could hardly close an eye all night. The motion of the vessel was violent, on account of her small size. A falling block broke out several of the panes in the sky-light of the cabin, so that the rain was admitted, and the furniture was tossed about by the rolling.

On the morning of the 19th of January, we were driven back to the strait between Dauphin Island and Mobile Point, and the anchor was dropt to prevent farther drifting. I was sea-sick, but had the consolation that several passengers shared my misfortune. The whole day continued disagreeable, cold, and cloudy. As we lay not far from Dauphin Island, several of our company went on shore, and brought back a few thrushes which they had shot. I was too unwell to feel any desire of visiting this inhospitable island, a mere strip of sand, bearing nothing but everlasting pines. Upon it, stands some remains of an old entrenchment and barrack. Besides the custom-house officers, only three families live on the whole island. We saw the light-house, and the houses at Mobile Point, not far from us. I wished to have gone there to see the fortification lately commenced, but it was too far to go on a rough sea in a skiff.

On the 20th of January, the wind was more favourable; it blew from the north-east, and dispersed the clouds, and we set sail. After several delays, caused by striking on sand-banks, we proceeded with a favourable wind, passed Dauphin Island and the islands Petit Bois, Massacre, Horn, and Ship Island.

These islands consist of high sand-hills, some of them covered with pine, and remind one strongly of the coasts of Holland and Flanders. Behind Horn and Massacre Islands lies a bay, which is called Pascagoula, from a river rising in the state of Mississippi, and emptying here into the sea. Ship Island is about nine miles long, and it was here that the English fleet which transported the troops sent on the expedition against New Orleans, remained during the months of December and January, 1814-15. At a considerable distance from us to the left, were some scattered islands, called Les Malheureux. Behind these were the islands De la Chandeleur, and still farther La Clef du Francmaçon. Afterwards we passed a muddy shallow, upon which, luckily, we did not stick fast, and arrived in the gulf Lac Borgne, which connects itself with Lake Ponchartrain, lying back of it, by two communications, each above a mile broad; of which one is called Chef Menteur, and the other the Rigolets. Both are guarded by forts, the first by the fort of Chef Menteur, the other by that of the Petites Coquilles, so called because it is built on a foundation of muscle shells, and its walls are composed of a cement of the same. We took this last direction, and passed the Rigolets in the night, with a fair wind. Night had already fallen when we reached Lake Borgne. After we had passed the Rigolets, we arrived in Lake Ponchartrain, then turned left from the light-house of Fort St. John, which protects the entrance of the bayou of the same name, leading to New Orleans.

I awoke on the 21st of January, as we entered the bayou St. John. This water is so broad, that we could not see the northern shore. We remained at the entrance one hour, to give the sailors a short rest, who had worked the whole night, and whose duty it was now to tow the vessel to the city, six miles distant. This fort, which has lost its importance since the erection of Chef Menteur, and Petites Coquilles, is abandoned, and a tavern is now building in its place. It lies about five hundred paces distant from the sea, but on account of the marshy banks cannot be thence attacked without great difficulty. The bank is covered with thick beams, to make it hold firm, which covering in this hot and damp climate perishes very quickly. The causeway which runs along the bayou, is of made earth on a foundation of timber. Behind the fort is a public house, called Ponchartrain Hotel, which is much frequented by persons from the city during summer. I recognized the darling amusements of the inhabitants, in a pharo and roulette table.

As the passage hence to the city is very tedious in stages, we proposed to hire a carriage, but there was none to be found; six dollars was asked for a boat; we therefore, decided to go on foot. The Colonel, Mr. Huygens, Mr. Egbert, Mr. Chew, and myself made up this walking party. The morning was beautiful spring weather; we passed through a shocking marshy country, along the right side of the bayou. The woods were hanging full of the hateful Spanish moss, and a number of palmettoes were the only variety afforded. The causeway was very muddy; there were good wooden bridges over little ditches, which conveyed the water from the surrounding marshes into the bayou.

After we had proceeded three miles in this manner, we came into a cultivated district, passed a sort of gate, and found ourselves quite in another world. Plantations, with handsome buildings, followed in quick succession; noble live oaks, which had been trimmed to regular shapes, young orange trees, pride of China, and other tropical trees and bushes, along the road. Several inns and public gardens were exhibited, for a population that willingly seeks amusement. We noticed several mansion-houses, ornamented with columns, piazzas, and covered galleries; some of these were of ancient style in building. It was naturally agreeable to me, after wandering a long time in mere wildernesses, once more to come into a long civilized country. We saw from afar, the white spires of the cathedral of New Orleans, also the masts of the ships lying in the Mississippi. The bayou unites itself, three miles from this city, with a canal leading thither, which we passed upon a turning bridge, to strike into the city by a nearer way.

This road carried us between well-built mansions, and over the streets were hung reflecting lamps. The first view of the city, as we reached, without knowing it, was really not handsome; for we came into the oldest section, which consisted only of little one-story houses, with mud walls, and wide projecting roofs. On the whole, the streets are regularly laid out, part parallel with the river, the rest perpendicular to it. The ancient town was surrounded by a wall, which is destroyed, in its room there is a boulevard laid out, called Rue de Remparts. Next to the old town below, lies the suburb Marigny, and above, that of St. Mary; then begins the most elegant part of the city.

Before we searched for lodgings, we looked about a little through the city, and went first to the Mississippi, to pay our homage to this “father of rivers.” It is about half a mile wide, and must be above eighty fathoms deep; it is separated from the city by a compost of muscle shells. This causeway defends it from inundations. There are no wharves, they cannot be fixed, as the river would sweep them away. The ships lay four and five deep, in tiers along the bank, as in the Thames, at London. Below them, were ten very large steam-boats, employed in the river trade. In a line with the bank stood houses, which were two or three stories high, and built of brick, also ancient massive Spanish houses, known by their heavy, solid style, and mostly white. We passed by a square, of which the river formed one side, opposite stood the cathedral, and on each side of it, a massive public edifice, with arcades. Along the bank stood the market-houses, built of brick, modelled after the Propylæa, in Athens, and divided into separate blocks. We saw in these, fine pine-apples, oranges, bananas, peccan-nuts, cocoa-nuts, and vegetables of different descriptions; also several shops, in which coffee and oysters were sold. The black population appeared very large; we were informed, that above one-half of the inhabitants, forty-five thousand in number, were of the darker colour. The custom-house on the Levée, is a pretty building.

We met a merchant, Mr. Ogden, partner of Mr. William Nott, to whose house I had letters, who had the politeness to take charge of us, and assist us in our search for lodgings. We obtained tolerable quarters in the boarding house of Madame Herries, Rue de Chartres. The first person I encountered in this house, was Count Vidua, with whom I had become acquainted in New York, and who since had travelled through Canada, the western country, and down the Ohio and Mississippi.

My first excursion was to visit Mr. Grymes, who here inhabits a large, massive, and splendidly furnished house. I found only Mrs. Grymes at home, who after an exceedingly fatiguing journey arrived here, and in fourteen days after had given birth to a fine son. I found two elegantly arranged rooms prepared for me, but I did not accept this hospitable invitation. After some time Mr. Grymes came home, and accompanied me back to my lodgings. As our schooner had not yet arrived, we went to meet it and found it in the canal, a mile and a half from town, where two cotton boats blocked up the way. We had our baggage put into the skiff, and came with it into the basin, where the canal terminates.

In the evening we paid our visit to the governor of the state of Louisiana, Mr. Johnson, but did not find him at home. After this we went to several coffee-houses, where the lower class amused themselves, hearing a workman singing in Spanish, which he accompanied with the guitar. Mr. Grymes took me to the masked ball, which is held every evening during the carnival at the French theatre. The saloon in which they danced, was quite long, well planned, and adorned with large mirrors. Round it were three rows of benches amphitheatrically arranged. There were few masks, only a few dominos, none in character. Cotillions and waltzes were the dances performed. The dress of the ladies I observed to be very elegant, but understood that most of those dancing did not belong to the better class of society. There were several adjoining rooms open, in which there is a supper when subscription balls are given. In the ground floor of the building are rooms, in which pharo and roulette are played. These places were obscure, and resembled caverns: the company playing there appeared from their dress, not to be of the best description.

Next day, we made new acquaintances, and renewed some old ones. I remained in this city several weeks, for I was obliged to give up my plan of visiting Mexico, as no stranger was allowed to go to that country who was not a subject of such states as had recognized the new government. There were too many obstacles in my way, and therefore I determined to wait in New Orleans for the mild season, and then to ascend the Mississippi. The result was an extensive acquaintance, a succession of visits, a certain conformity in living, from which one cannot refrain yielding to in a city. No day passed over this winter which did not produce something pleasant or interesting, each day however, was nearly the same as its predecessors. Dinners, evening parties, plays, masquerades, and other amusements followed close on each other, and were interrupted only by the little circumstances which accompany life in this hemisphere, as well as in the other.

The cathedral in New Orleans is built in a dull and heavy style of architecture externally, with a gable on which a tower and two lateral cupolas are erected. The façade is so confused, that I cannot pretend to describe it. Within, the church resembles a village church in Flanders. The ceiling is of wood, the pillars which support it, and divide the nave into three aisles, are heavy, made of wood, covered with plaster: as well as the walls, they are constructed without taste. The three altars are distinguished by no remarkable ornament. Upon one of the side altars stands an ugly wax image of the virgin and child. Near the great altar is a throne for the bishop. On Sundays and holy-days, this cathedral is visited by the beau monde; except on these occasions, I found that most of the worshippers consisted only of blacks, and coloured people, the chief part of them females.

The sinking of the earth of the Levée is guarded against in a peculiar way. In Holland piles are driven in along the water for this purpose, and held together by wattling. After the dam is raised up, there are palisades of the same kind placed behind each other. Here the twigs of the palmetto are inserted in the ground close together, and their fan-like leaves form a wall, which prevents the earth from rolling down.

There are only two streets paved in the city; but all have brick side-walks. The paving stones are brought as ballast by the ships from the northern states, and sell here very high. Several side-walks are also laid with broad flag stones. In the carriage way of the streets there is a prodigious quantity of mud. After a rain it is difficult even for a carriage to pass; the walkers who wish to go from one side to the other, have a severe inconvenience before them; either they must make a long digression, to find some stones that are placed in the abyss, for the benefit of jumping over, or if they undertake to wade through, run a risk of sticking fast.

Sunday is not observed with the puritanic strictness in New Orleans, that it is in the north. The shops are open, and there is singing and guitar-playing in the streets. In New York, or Philadelphia, such proceedings would be regarded as outrageously indecent. On a Sunday we went for the first time, to the French theatre, in which a play was performed every Sunday and Thursday. The piece for this night, was the tragedy of Regulus, and two vaudevilles. The dramatic corps was merely tolerable, such as those of the small French provincial towns,[39 - [This is the same corps which the Philadelphians extol so highly, that one might almost suppose them equal to the artists of the Theatre Français, if, unfortunately, one visit to the theatre, did not completely dispel the illusion!] – Trans.] where they never presume to present tragedies, or comedies of the highest class. “Regulus” was murdered; Mr. Marchand and Madame Clozel, whose husband performed the comic parts very well in the vaudevilles, alone distinguished themselves. The saloon is not very large, but well ornamented; below is the pit and parquet, a row of boxes each for four persons, and before them a balcony. The boxes are not divided by walls, but only separated by a low partition, so that the ladies can exhibit themselves conveniently. Over the first row of boxes is a second, to which the free colored people resort, who are not admitted to any other part of the theatre, and above this row is the gallery, in which slaves may go, with the permission of their masters. Behind the boxes is a lobby, where the gentlemen who do not wish to sit in a box, stand, or walk about, where they can see over the boxes. The theatre was less attended, than we had supposed it would be; and it was said, that the great shock felt in the commercial world, on account of the bankruptcy of three of the most distinguished houses, in consequence of unfortunate speculations in cotton, and the failures in Liverpool, was the cause of this desertion.

The garrison consists of two companies of infantry, of the first and fourth regiments. This has been here since the last insurrection of the negroes, and has been continued, to overawe them. In case of a serious alarm, this would prove but of little service! and what security is there against such an alarm? In Chartres street, where we dwelt, there were two establishments, which constantly revolted my feelings, to wit: shops in which negroes were purchased and sold. These unfortunate beings, of both sexes, stood or sat the whole day, in these shops, or in front of them, to exhibit themselves, and wait for purchasers. The abomination is shocking, and the barbarity and indifference, produced by the custom in white men, is indescribable.[40 - Among the slave traders, a Hollander from Amsterdam, disgusted me particularly, his name was Jacobs. He had the most vulgar and sinister countenance imaginable, was constantly drunk, and treated the wretched negroes in the most brutal manner; he was, however, severely beaten by these miserable beings, driven to despair.[78 - The virtuous indignation of the Duke, at these horrible consequences of slavery, is such as every man, not hardened by long familiarity with such scenes, must feel; those to whom they are daily presented regard them with calm indifference, or even attempt to argue in favour of their continuance and harmlessness. It is not as generally known, as it should be, that the slave trade is carried on, almost as vigorously now, as ever it was, and by citizens of almost every nation; not in the least excepting Americans. The slave vessels sail principally from Havanna and St. Thomas, and land their cargoes on the island of Puerto Rico, and elsewhere, whither purchasers and agents resort, when such an arrival occurs. Two schooners, with large cargoes, arrived in Puerto Rico in February last, and two brigs were daily expected. It is said in the West Indies, that all ships of war, of powers owning West India Colonies, connive at the trade, which is fully supported by facts; as French, Danish, and English cruisers were in the vicinity, when the above mentioned cargoes arrived. The idea of cruising off the coast of Africa, to prevent the trade, is ridiculed by the slave dealers, with one of whom the writer of this note conversed. If the American, or any other government really wished to put an end to this trade, it could be very effectually accomplished, by sending small armed vessels to intercept the slave traders near their places of landing cargoes, which are not very numerous. It is also said, in the West Indies, that the Havanna traders still contrive to introduce Africans into the southern part of the United States; of the truth or falsehood of this, we know nothing. The slave vessels are generally Baltimore clipper brigs, and schooners, completely armed and very fast sailers. Two of them sailed on this execrable trade in February last, from a part visited by the writer. —Trans.]]

There were subscription balls given in New Orleans, to which the managers had the politeness to invite us. These balls took place twice a week, Tuesdays and Fridays, at the French theatre, where the masquerade had been, which I mentioned before. None but good society were admitted to these subscription balls; the first that we attended was not crowded, however, the generality of the ladies present were very pretty, and had a very genteel French air. The dress was extremely elegant, and after the latest Paris fashion. The ladies danced, upon the whole, excellently, and did great honour to their French teachers. Dancing, and some instruction in music, is almost the whole education of the female creoles.

Most of the gentlemen here are far behind the ladies in elegance. They did not remain long at the ball, but hasted away to the quadroon ball, so called, where they amused themselves more, and were more at their ease. This was the reason why there were more ladies than gentlemen present at the ball, and that many were obliged to form “tapestry.” When a lady is left sitting, she is said to be “bredouille.” Two cotillions and a waltz, are danced in succession, and there is hardly an interval of two or three minutes between the dances. The music was performed by negroes and coloured people, and was pretty good. The governor was also at the ball, and introduced me to several gentlemen, among others, a Frenchman, General Garrigues de Flaugeac, who, having emigrated here from St. Domingo, had married, and given the world some very handsome daughters. Several of the French families here settled, and indeed, the most respectable, were emigrants from that island, who wait for the indemnification due to them, but without any great hopes of receiving it.

Colonel Wool inspected the two companies of the first and fourth regiments, under Major Twiggs stationed here; both together made at the most, eighty men under arms. The inspection took place before the Cathedral. I admired the good order and great propriety of these companies, as well as their uniformity of march and dressing, which I had no opportunity to observe before, in the troops of the United States. There was indeed many things to be wished for; as for example, the coats of the men did not fit, and many were too short; the grey cloth pantaloons were of different shades, and much too short; no bayonet sheaths, nor gun straps; the belt intended for the bayonet sheath over that of the cartridge box: the privates had wooden flints in their guns, and none in their cartridge boxes, also no spare flints, files, screwdrivers, nor oil flasks. From the false maxim, that the second rank, if they are shorter men, cannot fire over the front, the lesser men are ranged in the first, and the taller in the second rank through the whole army of the United States, and this produces a great eye-sore. There was some manual exercise, and manœuvres in battalion training: all good. The soldiers were mostly young, handsome and strong men, well fed and healthy looking natives of the western states; there were some Germans and Irish among them. The Irish, however, since their conduct is often in nowise commendable, are no longer admitted. Governor Johnson remained during the review, which lasted above an hour or more; there were also several members of the legislature now assembling, present. I formed an acquaintance here with General La Coste, who formerly had been engaged in the Spanish service, and at present commanded a division of the Louisiana militia. Colonel Croghan also attended the review.[41 - Colonel Croghan was one of the most distinguished officers of the American army. In the last war, he defended a miserable stockade, (Fort Stephenson) on Lake Erie, against a force eight times greater than his own, which had artillery, and drove it back. After the peace, he was appointed Post Master of New Orleans, and during my stay in this city, he had entered again into the army, and held the post of second Inspector-General.]

When the review was over, the governor showed me the two extensive buildings, joining the Cathedral, with arcades, as before-mentioned. One of them is devoted to the use of the several courts of justice, and the other is the City Hall. In the first, the United States court was holding its sessions, and as it was rather cold, the judge had removed himself to the fire-place, there to have the business transacted before him. The suit in controversy related to the sale of a negro. The buyer had purchased him as a slave for life; after the bargain had been concluded, and payment made, he discovered, by the declaration of his former master, the seller, that at a certain period he was to be free. I could not remain long enough in the court, to wait for the decision.

We passed then to the City Hall. In the lower story, is the guard-house of the city guard, besides a prison[42 - [Commonly known in New Orleans by the name of the Calaboose, (from Calabozo, the Spanish term for a vaulted dungeon,) and a great terror to evil-doers in that city; the efficiency of the police of which can never be enough admired.] – Trans.] for runaways, or negroes punished by order of their masters, who are here incarcerated, and employed in all servile labours for the city; they are termed negres marrons. The masters receive a daily recompense of twenty-five cents for each imprisoned negro. Near the guard-house stands a small piece of ordnance, from which the signal tattoo is fired. After this shot, no negro can tread the streets without a pass.[43 - I have already made some remarks with regard to the apprehension of negroes in Charleston. If a person wishes here to have a house-negro, male or female, chastised, they are sent with a note, in which the number of lashes which the bearer is to receive are specified, with a quarter of a dollar; he or she is lodged in the slave prison. Here the slave receives the punishment, and a certificate, which he must carry to his master. The maximum of lashes is thirty-nine, according to the Mosaic law. The species of punishment is specified as in Charleston, or “aux quatre piquets.” In this last case, the poor wretch is pressed out flat on his face upon the earth, and his hands and feet bound to four posts. In this posture he receives his flogging. This frightful method of chastisement, is principally in use on the plantations; and cruel discipline is there chiefly practised. Whoever wishes to punish a house servant severely, either hires or sells him to work on the plantations.] The upper stories of this building contains the offices and court halls of the magistrates. Part of them were ornamented very richly, as these chambers served as quarters for General La Fayette, who was here in the month of April last. Before the chambers, the whole length of the building, ran a gallery with very large windows, which being raised in summer, change the gallery into an airy balcony: an arrangement which I had remarked to exist also in the other building, where the courts of justice sat.

Hence the governor next conducted me to the old Spanish government house, in which the senators and representatives of the state of Louisiana were now assembled. The building is ancient and crazy, otherwise situated in a handsome spot on the levée, surrounded by a balcony. There is nothing more done for the repair of this building, as in a few years the legislature will be removed to Donaldsonville. The reason given for this is, that many members of the legislature are plain people, who feel embarrassed in New Orleans, and hope to be more at their ease in Donaldsonville. The office of the governor is in the yard, in a small house, where the secretary of the Spanish governor formerly had his office.

In a magazine belonging to the state, there are still several articles which belonged to the former navy-yard, and which, hereafter, are to be sent to Pensacola. Among these, I remarked brass and iron cannon of various calibres, and from different countries, English, Spanish, and French. There were some ancient ones among the French, with beautiful ornaments and inscriptions. On one was, “ultima ratio regum;” on others, the darling “liberté, egalité.” These pieces were found in the trifling fortifications that formerly surrounded the city, when the United States took possession of Louisiana, in 1803.

During the last of January, it rained uncommonly hard and steady. The streets became bottomless: holes formed in them, where carriages and carts were in constant peril of upsetting. At first it was cold; while the rain continued, there followed such an oppressive heat, that it was feared an earthquake was about to take place: it thundered and lightened also very heavily.

At the masked balls, each paid a dollar for admission. As I visited it for the second time, I observed, however, many present by free tickets, and I was told that the company was very much mixed. The unmasked ladies belonging to good society, sat in the recesses of the windows, which were higher than the saloon, and furnished with galleries. There were some masks in character, but none worthy of remark. Two quarrels took place, which commenced in the ball-room with blows, and terminated in the vestibule, with pocket-pistols and kicking, without any interruption from the police.

On the same evening, what was called a quadroon ball took place. A quadroon is the child of a mestize mother and a white father, as a mestize is the child of a mulatto mother and a white father. The quadroons are almost entirely white: from their skin no one would detect their origin; nay many of them have as fair a complexion as many of the haughty creole females. Such of them as frequent these balls are free. Formerly they were known by their black hair and eyes, but at present there are completely fair quadroon males and females. Still, however, the strongest prejudice reigns against them on account of their black blood, and the white ladies maintain, or affect to maintain, the most violent aversion towards them. Marriage between the white and coloured population is forbidden by the law of the state. As the quadroons on their part regard the negroes and mulattoes with contempt, and will not mix with them, so nothing remains for them but to be the friends, as it is termed, of the white men. The female quadroon looks upon such an engagement as a matrimonial contract, though it goes no farther than a formal contract by which the “friend” engages to pay the father or mother of the quadroon a specified sum. The quadroons both assume the name of their friends, and as I am assured preserve this engagement with as much fidelity as ladies espoused at the altar. Several of these girls have inherited property from their fathers or friends, and possess handsome fortunes. Notwithstanding this, their situation is always very humiliating. They cannot drive through the streets in a carriage, and their “friends” are forced to bring them in their own conveyances after dark to the ball: they dare not sit in the presence of white ladies, and cannot enter their apartments without especial permission. The whites have the privilege to procure these unfortunate creatures a whipping like that inflicted on slaves, upon an accusation, proved by two witnesses. Several of these females have enjoyed the benefits of as careful an education as most of the whites; they conduct themselves ordinarily with more propriety and decorum, and confer more happiness on their “friends,” than many of the white ladies to their married lords. Still, the white ladies constantly speak with the greatest contempt, and even with animosity, of these unhappy and oppressed beings. The strongest language of high nobility in the monarchies of the old world, cannot be more haughty, overweening or contemptuous towards their fellow creatures, than the expressions of the creole females with regard to the quadroons, in one of the much vaunted states of the free Union. In fact, such comparison strikes the mind of a thinking being very singularly! Many wealthy fathers, on account of the existing prejudices send daughters of this description to France, where these girls with a good education and property, find no difficulty in forming a legitimate establishment. At the quadroon ball, only coloured ladies are admitted, the men of that caste, be it understood, are shut out by the white gentlemen. To take away all semblance of vulgarity, the price of admission is fixed at two dollars, so that only persons of the better class can appear there.

As a stranger in my situation should see every thing, to acquire a knowledge of the habits, customs, opinions and prejudices of the people he is among, therefore I accepted the offer of some gentlemen who proposed to carry me to this quadroon ball. And I must avow I found it much more decent than the masked ball. The coloured ladies were under the eyes of their mothers, they were well and gracefully dressed, and conducted themselves with much propriety and modesty. Cotillions and waltzes were danced, and several of the ladies performed elegantly. I did not remain long there that I might not utterly destroy my standing in New Orleans, but returned to the masked ball and took great care not to disclose to the white ladies where I had been. I could not however refrain from making comparisons, which in no wise redounded to the advantage of the white assembly. As soon as I entered I found a state of formality.[44 - If it be known that a stranger, who has pretensions to mix with good society, frequents such balls as these, he may rely upon a cold reception from the white ladies.]

At the end of January, a contagious disorder prevailed, called the varioloid. It was said to be a species of small-pox, and was described as malignant in the highest degree. Even persons who had undergone vaccination, and those who had passed through the natural small-pox, were attacked by this disorder. The garrison lost six men, of whom two were severely marked. The garrison were placed in the barracks to preserve them from this malady. It was thought that it was imported by some negro slaves from the north. Many owners of slaves in the states of Maryland and Virginia have real – (pardon the loathsome expression, I know not how otherwise to designate the beastly idea,) stud nurseries for slaves, whence the planters of Louisiana, Mississippi, and the other southern states draw their supplies, which increase every day in price. Such a disease as the varioloid is a fit present, in return for slaves thus obtained![45 - [A plain, unvarnished history of the internal slave trade carried on in this country, would shock and disgust the reader to a degree that would almost render him ashamed to acknowledge himself a member of the same community. In unmanly and degrading barbarity, wanton cruelty, and horrible indifference to every human emotion, facts could be produced worthy of association with whatever is recorded of the slave trade in any other form. One of these internal slave traders has built, in a neighbouring city, a range of private prisons, fronting the main road to Washington, in which he collects his cattle previous to sending off a caravan to the south. The voice of lamentation is seldom stilled within these accursed walls.] – Trans.]

We paid the late governor of the state, Mr. Robinson, a visit. It gave me much pleasure to cultivate his acquaintance. Mr. Robinson is regarded with universal respect, and I met in him a highly interesting and well informed man, who converses with wit and spirit. At a dinner, given by the acting governor, I became acquainted with the former governor and militia general Villaret, as well as with Dr. Herman, from Cassel, who was employed in the navy of the United States as surgeon-general. From this dinner we went to the child’s ball, which was given in the customary ball room of the French theatre, for the benefit of the dancing master. Most of the children were quite charming, and danced very prettily: only the little girls from ten to eleven years of age, were dressed and tricked off like full grown ladies. About eight o’clock the little children left off dancing and were mostly sent home, and in their place the larger girls resumed the dance. The costume of the ladies was very elegant. To my discomfiture, however, a pair of tobacco-chewing gentlemen engaged me in conversation, from which I received such a sensation of disgust, that I was nearly in the situation of one sea-sick.

On the 1st of February, to my great sorrow, the brave Colonel Wool, who had become exceedingly dear and valuable to me, took leave. I accompanied him to his steam-boat, which departed at eleven o’clock, and gazed after him for a long time.

I paid a visit to the bishop of Louisiana, Mr. Dubourg, and was very politely received. He is a Jesuit, a native of St. Domingo, and appears to be about sixty years old. He delivers himself very well, and conversed with me concerning the disturbances in the diocese of Ghent, in the time of the Prince Broglio, in which he, as friend and counsellor of that prince, whom he accompanied in his progress through his diocese, took an active part. In his chamber, I saw a very fine portrait of Pope Pius VII. a copy of one painted by Camuccini, and given by the pope to the deceased duke of Saxe-Gotha. The bishop inhabited a quondam nunnery, the greater part of which he had assigned for, and established as a school for boys. The bishop returned my visit on the next day.

At a dinner, which Mr. Grymes gave with the greatest display of magnificence, after the second course, large folding doors opened and we beheld another dining room, in which stood a table with the dessert. We withdrew from the first table, and seated ourselves at the second, in the same order in which we had partaken of the first. As the variety of wines began to set the tongues of the guests at liberty, the ladies rose, retired to another apartment, and resorted to music for amusement. Some of the gentlemen remained with the bottle, while others, among whom I was one, followed the ladies, and regaled ourselves with harmony. We had waltzing until ten o’clock, when we went to the masquerade in the theatre of St. Phillip’s street, a small building, in which, at other times, Spanish dramas were exhibited. The female company consisted of quadroons, who, however, were masked. Several of them addressed me, and coquetted with me some time, in the most subtle and amusing manner.

A young lawyer from Paris, of the name of Souliez, paid me a visit. He was involved in unpleasant circumstances in his native country, on account of some liberal publications which he had made against the Jesuits in the newspapers. On this account, he, full of liberal ideas, had left his home, and gone to Hayti, with recommendatory letters from bishop Gregoire to President Boyer. There, however, he found the state of things widely different from what he had fancied them at home. The consequence was, he had come to the United States, and he now candidly confessed that he was completely cured of his fine dreams of liberty.

Dr. Herman gave a dinner, at which were more than twenty guests. Among them were the governor, Colonel Croghan, and several of the public characters here. Mr. Bowdoin, who was slowly recovering from his gout, and Count Vidua, were also there. Except our hostess there was no lady present. Mrs. Herman, a very beautiful young woman, was very unwell, and obliged to leave the table soon. The dinner was very splendid.

We crossed the Mississippi in a boat, like a small chest, such a boat is styled a “ferry-boat.” This was the only stated means of communication supported between the city and the right bank. Formerly there was a steam ferry-boat, and afterwards a horse-boat, but neither the one nor the other could be supported by the business. The stream is nearly three-fourths of a mile broad. Arrived on the right bank, we found a little inconsiderable place called Macdonaldville, that did not appear very thriving. Along the bank runs a levée, to protect the land from inundation. Several vessels are laid up here. The country is exceedingly level, and is composed of swampy meadows, and in the back ground, of forest, partly of live oaks, which is much concealed, however, by long ugly moss. Farther inward is a sugar plantation belonging to Baron Marigny. The river makes a remarkable bend opposite New Orleans, and the city, with its white spires, and crowds of vessels lying in the stream, looks uncommonly well from the right bank.

General Villaret invited us to dinner at his country-house, which is eight miles distant from New Orleans, and had the politeness to bring us in his carriage. At half past eleven o’clock, I went out with Count Vidua, and Mr. Huygens. The habitation, as the mansion-houses lying in a sugar plantation are termed, is upon the left bank of the Mississippi, about a short mile from the river. In December, 1814, it served the English army for head quarters. The road to it led along the levée, past country houses, which succeeded each other rapidly for five miles. Several display the comfort and good taste of their owners. The mansion-house, commonly, is situated about one hundred paces from the entrance, and an avenue of laurel trees, which are cut in a pyramidical form, and pride of China trees, leads to the door. The most of these houses are two stories high, and are surrounded with piazzas and covered galleries. Back of the elegant mansion-house stand the negro cabins, like a camp, and behind the sugar-cane fields, which extend to the marshy cypress woods about a mile back, called the cypress swamp. Among these country-houses is a nunnery of Ursulines, the inhabitants of which are employed in the education of female youth.

Five miles from the city we reached the former plantation of M‘Carthy, now belonging to Mr. Montgomery, in which General Jackson had his head quarters. About one hundred paces farther, commences the right of the line, to the defence of which this general owes his great renown. I left the carriage here, and went along the remainder of the line, at most a mile in length, with the right wing on the river, and the left resting on the cypress swamp.

The English landed in Lake Borgne, which is about three miles distant from General Villaret’s dwelling. On the 23d of December, a company of soldiers attacked this house, and took two of the general’s sons prisoners. The third of his sons escaped, and brought to General Jackson, whose head quarters were at that time in the city, the intelligence of the landing and progress of the British. Immediately the alarm guns were fired, and the general marched with the few troops and militia under his command, not two thousand in number, against the habitation of Villaret. The English had established themselves here, with the intent to attack the city directly, which was without the least protection. The general advanced along the line of the woods, and nearly surprised the English. He would probably have captured them, if he had had time to despatch a few riflemen through the generally passable cypress swamp to the right wing: and had not the night come on, and a sudden fog also prevented it. He judged it more prudent to fall back, and stationed his troops at the narrowest point between the river and the cypress swamp, while he took up his head quarters in the habitation of M‘Carthy.

There was a small ditch in front of his line, and on the next day some young men of the militia commenced, on their own motion, to throw up a little breast-work, with the spades and shovels they found in the habitation. This suggested to the general the idea of forming a line here. This line was, however, the very feeblest an engineer could have devised, that is, a strait one. There was not sufficient earth to make the breast work of the requisite height and strength, since, if the ground here was dug two feet, water flowed out. To remedy this evil in some measure, a number of cotton bales were brought from the warehouses of the city, and the breast-work was strengthened by them. Behind these bales artillery was placed, mostly ship’s cannon, and they endeavoured, by a redoubt erected on the right wing at the levée, to render it more susceptible of defence; especially as no time was to be lost, and the offensive operations of the British were daily perceptible; still the defensive preparations which General Jackson could effect were very imperfect. The English force strengthened itself constantly, they threw up batteries, widened the canal leading from Villaret’s to Lake Borgne, so as to admit their boats into the Mississippi, and covered this canal by several detached entrenchments.

A cannonade was maintained by their batteries for several days on the American line, but they could not reach it, and had several of their own pieces dismounted by the well-directed fire of the American artillery. Finally, on the 8th of January, after General Jackson had time to procure reinforcements, of which the best were the volunteer riflemen of Tennessee, who were distributed along the line, well covered by the cotton bales, and each of which had one or two men behind him, to load the rifles, the English commenced storming the line, under Sir Edward Packenham’s personal direction. The soil in front of the line consisted of perfectly level cane fields, which had been cut down, not a single tree or bush was to be found. The unfortunate Englishmen, whose force in the field was reckoned at from eight to ten thousand men, were obliged to advance without any shelter, and remain a long time, first under the fire of the well-directed cannon, afterwards under the fire of the rifles and small arms of the Americans, without being able to effect any thing in return against them. The first attack was made upon the left wing of the line. The British did not reach the ditch, but began soon to give way. Sir Edward attempted to lead them on again; a cannon-shot, however, killed his horse and wounded him in both legs. The soldiers carried him off, but he unluckily received some rifle-shots, that put an end to his life, having five balls in his body. The Major-generals Gibbs and Keane were struck at the same time, the first killed and the latter mortally wounded. By this the troops, who had continually supported a most murderous fire, were at length obliged completely to give way. Major-general Lambert, who commanded the reserve, and upon whom also at this period the whole command of the army devolved, made a last attempt to force the line. He led his troops in a run upon the batture, between the levée and the river, (which at that time was very low,) against the right wing of the line, where the small redoubt was placed, stormed, and took possession of it, but was forced, by the well-supported fire of the riflemen behind the line, to evacuate it again. The English colonel of engineers, Rennee, met with a glorious death, upon the breast-work, in this affair. After this unsuccessful attempt, the English retreated to their entrenchments at Villaret’s, and in a few days re-embarked.

During the failure of this principal attack, the English had conveyed eight hundred men to the right shore of the river, who gained some advantages there against insignificant entrenchments. These advantages, when they heard of the bad results of the main attack, they were obliged to abandon, and to return to the left bank. Had the storm of the right wing, and the feigned assault on the left been successful, in all probability General Jackson would have been obliged to evacuate not only his lines, but the city itself. Providence surely took the city under its protection; for the English were promised the plunder of New Orleans in case of success, as was asserted in that city: General Jackson moreover had given orders, in case of his retreat, not only to blow up the powder magazine of the city on the right bank, but to destroy the public buildings, and set the city on fire at the four corners. The general himself so fully recognized the hand of Providence in the event, that on the day after his victory, he expressed himself to Bishop Dubourg thus: that he knew the city owed its preservation to a merciful Providence alone, and that his first step should be on his return to the city, to thank God in his temple for the victory so wonderfully obtained. The bishop immediately gave directions for a thanksgiving, and it was unanimously celebrated with a sincere feeling of gratitude.

From the battle ground to General Villaret’s dwelling, we had three miles still to go over. For some days back, we had dry weather, and the road, which after a hard rain, must be bottomless, was on that account, hard and good. The Mississippi has the peculiarity possessed by several streams in Holland, of changing its bed. The house of General Villaret, was once much nearer the river; for some years, however, it has inclined so much to the right, that it constantly wears away the soil there, while it forms new deposits to the left. The general’s possessions are therefrom increased, and that with very good soil. The visit of the English nearly ruined the general. Their landing on this side was so entirely unexpected, that he, being employed in collecting the militia in the districts above the city, had not been able to remove the least of his property. The English took all the cattle away, as well as above sixty negroes. There has not been any intelligence of what was the fate of these negroes, probably they were sold in the West Indies. All the fences, bridges, and negro cabins were destroyed. The mansion-house was only spared, as it was occupied as head-quarters. The youngest son of the general, between thirteen and fourteen years old, was obliged to remain in the house the whole time it was retained, and was very well treated by the English generals and officers. As the English were on the point of re-embarking, General Lambert gave young Villaret four hundred dollars in silver to carry to his father, as indemnification for the cattle carried off. The young man went to the city, and delivered the money to his father. General Villaret requested General Jackson to send a flag of truce on board the English fleet, to carry the money back to General Lambert, with a letter from General Villaret. This was done, but the general never received an answer.

The removal of the negroes was a severe stroke for the General, from which, as he told me himself, it cost him much trouble gradually to recover. The canal or bayou, which ran from his plantation to Lake Borgne, was shut up by order of General Jackson after the retreat of the English, and there were not labourers sufficient left with General Villaret to reinstate it; it was of great importance to him for the conveyance of wood and other necessaries.

We found at the general’s, his sons, his son-in-law, Mr. Lavoisne, and several gentlemen from the city, among them Governor Johnson. We took some walks in the adjacent grounds. The house was not very large, and was not very much ornamented, for reasons already mentioned. Behind it was a brick sugar-boiling house, and another one for the sugar mill. Near that was a large yard, with stables and neat negro cabins for the house-servants. The huts of the field slaves were removed farther off. The whole is surrounded by cane fields, of which some were then brought in, and others all cut down. A field of this description must rest fallow for five years, and be manured, before being again set out in plants. For manure, a large species of bean is sown, which is left to rot in the field, and answers the purpose very well. The cane is commonly cut in December, and brought to the mill. These mills consists of three iron cylinders, which stand upright, the centre one of which is put in motion by a horse-mill underneath, so as to turn the other by crown-wheels. The cane is shoved in between these, and must pass twice through to be thoroughly squeezed out. The fresh juice thus pressed out, runs through a groove into a reservoir. From this it is drawn off into the kettles, in which it is boiled, to expel the watery part by evaporation. There are three of these kettles close together, so as to pour the juice when it boils from one to the other, and thus facilitate the evaporation of the water. The boiling in these kettles lasts one hour; one set gives half a hogshead of brown sugar. In several of the plantations there is a steam-engine employed in place of the horse-power: the general’s misfortunes have not yet permitted him to incur this expense.