The Cruise of the Snark

A last word: the test of the voyage. It is easy enough for me or any man to say that it was enjoyable. But there is a better witness, the one woman who made it from beginning to end. In hospital when I broke the news to Charmian that I must go back to California, the tears welled into her eyes. For two days she was wrecked and broken by the knowledge that the happy, happy voyage was abandoned.

Glen Ellen, California,

April 7, 1911.

notes

1

To point out that we of the Snark are not a crowd of weaklings, which might be concluded from our divers afflictions, I quote the following, which I gleaned verbatim from the Eugenie’s log and which may be considered as a sample of Solomon Islands cruising:

Ulava, Thursday, March 12, 1908

Boat went ashore in the morning. Got two loads ivory nut, 4000 copra. Skipper down with fever.

Ulava, Friday, March 13, 1908

Buying nuts from bushmen, 1½ ton. Mate and skipper down with fever.

Ulava, Saturday, March 14, 1908

At noon hove up and proceeded with a very light E.N.E. wind for Ngora-Ngora. Anchored in 5 fathoms – shell and coral. Mate down with fever.

Ngora-Ngora, Sunday, March 15, 1908

At daybreak found that the boy Bagua had died during the night, on dysentery. He was about 14 days sick. At sunset, big N.W. squall. (Second anchor ready) Lasting one hour and 30 minutes.

At sea, Monday, March 16, 1908

Set course for Sikiana at 4 P.M. Wind broke off. Heavy squalls during the night. Skipper down on dysentery, also one man.

At sea, Tuesday, March 17, 1908

Skipper and 2 crew down on dysentery. Mate fever.

At sea, Wednesday, March 18, 1908

Big sea. Lee-rail under water all the time. Ship under reefed mainsail, staysail, and inner jib. Skipper and 3 men dysentery. Mate fever.

At sea, Thursday, March 19, 1908

Too thick to see anything. Blowing a gale all the time. Pump plugged up and bailing with buckets. Skipper and five boys down on dysentery.

At sea, Friday, March 20, 1908

During night squalls with hurricane force. Skipper and six men down on dysentery.

At sea, Saturday, March 21, 1908

Turned back from Sikiana. Squalls all day with heavy rain and sea. Skipper and best part of crew on dysentery. Mate fever.

And so, day by day, with the majority of all on board prostrated, the Eugenie’s log goes on. The only variety occurred on March 31, when the mate came down with dysentery and the skipper was floored by fever.