Preserves: A beginner’s guide to making jams and jellies, chutneys and pickles, sauces and ketchups, syrups and alcoholic sips

SALT

Salt is particularly important in the making of chutneys and pickles for many reasons. Strong brine acts as a preservative and prevents the process of discolouration if used with care. Salt sprinkled on such vegetables as cucumbers rids them of excess moisture and helps to soften hard skin. Salt also removes bitter juices from fruit and vegetables such as aubergines and prevents juices from leaching into the vinegar. Salt gives a unique pungency to lemons and limes, which is totally unlike their natural flavour; it also combines with herbs and spices to give magical effects from the most basic ingredients.

Some recipes require a lot of salt and some very little, and I would suggest that you stick to the quantities given. Remember, that when reducing pulps, purées and pastes, the salt flavour will become more concentrated.

Never neglect the addition of salt in your recipes, unless you are on a salt-free diet, in which case it is worth investigating salt substitutes. Salt brings out the flavour in food that might otherwise be dull and lifeless. This strange property is why fortunes have been made, and the prosperity of nations founded, upon salt – you do not realise how vital it is until you are deprived of it, and then a terrible craving sets in! Apart from which, it was at one time the only method of preserving foodstuffs – from fish and meat to fruit and vegetables.

Salt should be kept in non-porous stoneware jars or wooden boxes and a few grains of rice added to ensure that it stays dry and free-flowing – especially if you keep salt near the cooker. Damp salt becomes concentrated and can cause mayhem for the careful cook.

Several varieties of salts are available:

TABLE SALT

The most widely used type, table salt contains magnesium carbonate to give it free running properties, but I feel that this makes it unsuitable for clear pickles and bottling as it may give a cloudy result.

ROCK SALT

A crystal form of salt, this is the next best thing to block salt, which was traditionally widely used in preserving but is now difficult to obtain.

BAY SALT, SEA SALT OR GROS SEL

These are crystals of sea water formed by evaporation under natural or artificial heat. This is the salt that I find most satisfactory for nearly all preserving.

MALDON SALT

Flat flakes of salt naturally produced in Maldon in Essex. Maldon salt is the very best, but also the most expensive.

FLAVOURED SALT

Ready-made celery salt, garlic salt and onion salt are all popular kitchen condiments and each adds their own distinctive flavour to a wide variety of dishes. But how about making your own herb salts? Take a bunch of fresh mixed herbs, choosing a selection that is suitable for a specific purpose. For example, use the more delicate herbs like chervil and tarragon in creamy sauces; robust herbs like marjoram and sage will go well with meat and fish; whilst strong, aromatic herbs such as oregano and basil are the most suitable for pizzas and cheese dishes. Make sure that the herbs are freshly picked, clean and dry and chop them finely. Either put them into a liquidiser or mix very thoroughly by hand in a bowl or pestle and mortar with three-quarters of a cup of an additive-free salt. Spread the mixture out thinly on a baking tray and leave overnight in the oven at a very low temperature (50–70°C/gas mark ¼), with the door ajar. Store in an airtight container – the herb salt will last indefinitely, but all herbs lose their flavour over time.

VINEGAR

An essential ingredient in a wide variety of pickles, chutneys and relishes, not only to add colour and flavour, but also to prevent the growth of bacteria and so extend the keeping qualities of the finished preserve.

Choosing the right vinegar can be a daunting prospect as the range available at supermarkets is ever-increasing, so here’s a guide to the different types:

MALT VINEGAR

Made from a fermentation of malt, it is available as either brown (coloured with caramel) or white (distilled). This vinegar is the one that most home preservers favour, for it is economical, can be purchased in large quantities from 1–5 litres and is easily available. However, do make sure that the vinegar you purchase is true malt vinegar. Although malt vinegar is harsh and uncompromising, it is quite suitable for more robust pickles, chutneys and sauces where refined flavours would be lost. White malt vinegar is usually used in conjunction with white sugar, where a light, clear or decorative appearance is necessary, for example artichoke pickles. Small green tomatoes, red chillies, shallot or pickling onions, pieces of lemon and so on will show to better advantage if white vinegar is used.

WINE VINEGAR

This was originally made from wine in Orléans, France, where great casks of stored wine suffered from the accidental inclusion of air, thus becoming disastrously soured over a period of time. Eventually, the value of this unpalatable wine was discovered, financial disaster was averted and a more scientific approach was worked out for making Orléans wine vinegar. Many companies now make less expensive wine vinegar by modern methods. Wine vinegar is better than malt vinegar in delicate pickles (if there is such a thing!) but do not be misled into thinking that because it has a more fragrant flavour it must be better for pickles, for this is not necessarily so. Wine vinegar has a different effect on some combinations of fruit, vegetables, spices, etc, and may result in a sour note. One of the best uses it may be put to is in herb vinegars (#ulink_b2d5a627-6fd7-5243-b43f-d58c0e5147bc).

CIDER VINEGAR

This is produced in much the same way as wine vinegar. It can vary enormously in quality and price and the flavour can be pleasant and mellow. It is much more useful in nearly all preserves than wine vinegar and is, if you can afford it, a better substitute for malt vinegar, especially if you favour natural foods. If you run out of cider vinegar in an emergency, half white malt vinegar and half dry cider will give you a reasonable result and this is the mixture that I frequently use in preserves that are well cooked. Cider vinegar is excellent for making flower, fruit and herb vinegars (#ulink_b2d5a627-6fd7-5243-b43f-d58c0e5147bc), although it does have a clear golden colour that you may consider to be a disadvantage.

BALSAMIC AND SHERRY VINEGARS

Powerful, dark vinegars most usually added in small quantities to sauces, dressings and other dishes. Too strong to use in pickling – and the cost would be prohibitive – however, in conjunction with malt vinegar, they make a well-flavoured pickling vinegar for shallots and mushrooms. A good slug of it will also give a kick to red tomato chutneys and sauces.

SPICED OR PICKLING VINEGARS

Many recipes call for this ready-spiced vinegar and it is handy to make it in large quantities, which can save a lot of hassle later on. Most of them are made from malt vinegar, although occasionally a recipe may specify a spiced wine or cider vinegar. The method of making spiced vinegar is simple: pickling spices are boiled together with vinegar in a stainless steel pan, the pan is removed from the heat, covered and left to get cold. It can then either be strained before using or the whole spices added to the pickle, but not to a chutney. If it is to be kept, it should be poured into a suitable container and sealed with a non-metal lid. The spices added to the vinegar will make it much stronger if you don’t strain it. A wide selection of different spiced vinegars, both mild and fiery, are included throughout this book.

FLAVOURED VINEGARS

There are many recipes for malt vinegars flavoured with garlic, onion, shallot and horseradish; white malt vinegar flavoured with cucumber; wine vinegar with tiny red chillies or green peppercorns added to the bottle; and, of course, the vinegars left over from such goodies as pickled artichokes or onions. All of these are of inestimable value in the kitchen. A few drops added to salad dressings, marinades, stuffing, dips, chutneys and pickles all give your own special, unique touch and, of course, are very economical and will give a zing to the most everyday food.

HERB VINEGARS

Most of these are usually made with white malt, red or white wine or cider vinegar, and there are many recipes in this book for achieving these delightful and subtle concoctions. Use attractive bottles for a never-ending supply of unusual and inexpensive presents, which will give great pleasure to you and the recipient. The most exciting thing about making herb vinegars is the experimenting. Do not just take the recipes that I have given, try mixing and blending your own favourites. How about several coriander seeds with lemon thyme for a spicy vinegar or a few cloves or a blade of mace in a tarragon vinegar? This makes a smashing dressing for chicken salad. The therapeutic effects of wandering around the garden selecting your herbs and then going through the leisurely business of preparing the vinegar and waiting for it to mature are very good for the soul as well as the palate.

Although there are more specific recipes, there is a fairly standard method of making herb vinegars. Use only small quantities of herbs to start with and try experimenting with your favourites, adding a few whole spices if the mood takes you. If it is difficult to obtain fresh herbs, then dried herbs will still make a very palatable vinegar. Generally speaking, half the weight of dried herbs to fresh is sufficient, but remember when using dried herbs to strain the vinegar through a muslin cloth before decanting otherwise it will be ‘bitty’. Make sure that you pick your herbs before they flower and early in the morning whilst their oils are still fresh; also, that they are clean and dry – but do not wash them. Bruise them well and pack into a sterilised heatproof jar. Bring a pan of white vinegar to the boil and then pour it over the herbs whilst it is hot, but not boiling, then seal and leave to infuse for 14 days, shaking every day. Strain and add a fresh whole leaf or a sprightly sprig to a sterilised bottle before adding the vinegar. Seal with corks.

FLOWER VINEGARS

If making herb vinegars is soothing, imagine the delightful pleasures in store in making fragrant vinegars, perfumed and colourful with names from an Elizabethan garden – gillyflowers, clove carnation, rose, lavender and marigold. White vinegars are used to make these ancient lovelies as the vinegar becomes transformed by the colour of the petals. One word of warning though: do not use flowers grown from a corm or bulb base unless you are absolutely sure that they are not harmful. It is also good common sense to check on any flower that you use to make sure it is not one of the nasties.

FRUIT VINEGARS

More old-fashioned brews concocted by good wives of another era and some of my favourites. Again, use white malt, cider or red or white wine vinegar and usually soft fruit: blackberries, raspberries, mulberries or blackcurrants. The results can be put not only to culinary use, but to medicinal use as well. With hot water and honey added if necessary, children will find them a soothing and novel antidote for minor snuffles and sore throats. Inevitably the originality is half the cure!

SPICES & FLAVOURINGS

Without a pinch of spice or a grating of ginger, many preserves would simply not be as moreish and mouthwatering. The skilful blending of spices, seasonings or herbs in varying proportions will enhance the other ingredients and help transform them into all-time favourites.

Starting with flavouring: a good, simple example of this is onion-flavoured vinegar, where the onion is the principal and vinegar the vehicle. Garlic and tomato chutney is another more complex example: garlic will be the predominant flavour and the tomato the substance for carrying that flavour, but in either case, one will not exist without the other. Without spices or seasonings, however, the recipe will be at best very ordinary, at worst woefully unpalatable. Strange combinations can have amazing and agreeable results, for example lemon, garlic and horseradish; orange and coriander; rhubarb and vanilla; prunes and cloves; gooseberry and elderflower; ginger and cardamom. The real truth of a seasoning is that its presence should not be noticeable as a single unit, but only as a contribution to the whole, however subtle or sly the change to the main ingredients.

There are some important points to bear in mind when using spices in preserve making. Where possible, freshly grind your own spices as you need them, particularly peppercorns and allspice and freshly grated nutmeg. It is usually preferable to tie whole spices together in a muslin bag for all preserves – jams, chutneys, pickles, relishes, etc. – unless the recipe states otherwise.

When you have to use commercially ground spices, make sure that they are really fresh, otherwise you will gain nothing from them. So buy in small quantities and keep in dark, air-tight jars. Throw away old spices – they are of no use to you. Ground spices are acceptable in jams and chutneys, but should never be used in clear preserves, bottling, clear pickles, vinegars or oils, nor added to jellies after they have been drained through a muslin. The reason for this is quite simple – the taste will not be impaired, but the result will be as murky as a fish pond and, in some cases, a thick sediment will form at the bottom of the jar or bottle, which will look very nasty indeed. You may know that the product is good, but others will view it with grave suspicion.

Here’s a guide to the invaluable spices used in jam, chutney and pickle making:

ALLSPICE

The dried brown berry of Pimenta dioica, which grows in tropical America and the West Indies. Similar in appearance to, but smoother than, a peppercorn and tasting of cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon – hence the name. It is also known as Jamaica pepper. This is a particularly useful flavouring for all preserves, pickles and chutneys. Also used in marinades and cakes.

CARDAMOM

True cardamom is either from Elettaria cardamomum or Amomum cardamomum, which are both members of the ginger family. The tiny black-brown seeds are contained within a creamy green pod and the flavour and smell is distinctly that of eucalyptus – pleasantly aromatic if you like it, but distasteful if you do not. Used mainly in curry powders, it combines well with ginger, coffee and many spices. It is a popular spice in the Middle and Far East, Germany and the Nordic countries. Although not frequently made the most of, cardamom is a very useful spice in pickling, where the taste has been likened to that of a cross between juniper and lime. Most recipes require that you scrape the small seeds from the pods.

CINNAMON

A very valuable spice in preserving. Use either the stick, which is in reality the outer bark of a tree, Cinnamomum zeylanicum, which curls into those little scrolls naturally as it dries, or use a ground spice and try to buy a good brand that has not been adulterated with inferior substitutes. Cinnamon is imported mainly from Sri Lanka.