Recipes That Work

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime

1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

TO SERVE

4 large slices of smoked salmon

Salad leaves (salad greens)

2 lemons, cut into wedges

1 To make the citrus crème fraîche, place the crème fraîche in a mixing bowl and whisk for a moment or two to soften it. Add the grated lemon zest, grated lime zest and juice, chopped parsley and seasoning and mix well to incorporate. Transfer to a clean bowl and store in the fridge until required.

2 To pickle the cucumber, using a vegetable peeler, slice the cucumber into very long thin strips, then with a very sharp knife, cut each strip into long ribbons and place in a bowl. Be careful not to add any of the seeds, as this can make the pickled cucumber very soggy.

3 Gently heat the rice wine vinegar and sugar together in a small saucepan. Do not bring the mixture to the boil but merely a gentle simmer. Add the chopped dill, some cracked black pepper and the finely diced shallot to the bowl with the cucumber and then pour the warmed vinegar and sugar mixture on top. Allow this mixture to cool and if possible allow it to infuse and develop in flavour for a number of days before using.

4 To serve, arrange a slice of salmon flat on a serving platter. Garnish with some mixed lettuce leaves and lemon wedges. Place a dollop of citrus crème fraîche on the platter with the salmon and arrange a small pile of pickled cucumber on the side.

SALMON SALADE NICOISE

This particular recipe is a variation on the classic Provençal favourite, as it uses salmon instead of tuna. I like to serve it with a well-chilled, high-acidity white wine, to complement the strong flavours of the dish, such as Bellet or Palette, which you can find in most good off-licences.

SERVES 4

4 portions of salmon, about 175g/6oz each

8 new potatoes, scraped or scrubbed

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

8 quails’ eggs, at room temperature

110g/4oz/¾ cup extra-fine French beans (green beans), trimmed

4 Little Gem (Boston) lettuce hearts, quartered lengthways and separated

4 ripe plum tomatoes, roughly chopped

1 red onion, peeled and finely sliced

6 anchovy fillets, cut lengthways into thin strips

16 black olives in brine, pitted and drained

8 fresh basil leaves, torn

MARINADE

100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 tbsp aged red wine vinegar

2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tbsp snipped fresh chives

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 To make the marinade, place all the ingredients in a bowl, add 1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper, and whisk to combine.

2 Place the salmon in a shallow non-metallic dish and pour over half of the marinade. Cover with clingfilm (plastic wrap) and chill for 1–2 hours to allow the flavours to penetrate the salmon, turning every 30 minutes or so.

3 Place the potatoes in a pan of boiling salted water, then cover, reduce the heat and simmer for 10–12 minutes or until just tender. Drain and leave to cool completely, then cut into quarters lengthways.

4 Place the quails’ eggs in a small pan and just cover with boiling water then cook for 4 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold running water, then remove the shells and cut each egg in half. Plunge the French beans into a pan of boiling salted water and blanch for a minute or so, then drain and refresh under cold running water.

5 Heat a griddle pan (grill pan) for 5 minutes. Remove the salmon from the marinade, shaking off any excess and set any remaining marinade aside. Cook the salmon for 5–6 minutes on each side, depending on how thick it is. When cooked, the fish should feel quite firm to the touch.

6 Arrange the lettuce leaves on serving plates or one large platter and add the potatoes, French beans, tomatoes, onion and anchovies. Put the salmon on top and drizzle over the remaining marinade. Scatter over the quails’ eggs, olives and torn basil leaves to serve.

PAN-ROASTED SCALLOPS WITH A BRANDY CREAM REDUCTION

Scallops are a fabulous starter (appetizer) and serving them with a small amount of this rich sauce turns them into a delightful special-occasion treat.

SERVES 4

1 leek, trimmed

1 carrot, peeled

12 large scallops, corals removed

Salt and cracked black pepper

Sunflower oil, for drizzling

25g/1oz/¼ stick butter

1½ tbsp brandy

200ml/7fl oz/generous ¾ cup pouring cream

4 tsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus extra sprigs to garnish