Kitchen Memories

1 or 2 small blood oranges or 1 large navel orange, peeled and pith removed, then cut crossways into 5mm-thick slices

about 12 viola flowers picked from the garden or a pot, stems removed

a few leaves of winter purslane or lamb’s lettuce

salt and black pepper

To make the mayonnaise, put the egg yolk into a pestle and mortar. (You can do this in the food processor or KitchenAid, but this is just the way we have made it in our family over the years, as it gives you more direct control and contact with the way the yolk is responding to the olive oil – how thick you want it and how much lemon to put in can be adjusted to taste in a more satisfying way.) Very slowly start adding the oil – it should be drops at the beginning not a continuous stream, stirring all the time. Once the egg yolk and oil have become one and there is no sign of separation – the mixture should start to feel gloopy and stiff – add a squeeze of lemon juice. Keep stirring and adding more olive oil until it becomes too thick and is clinging to the pestle, then add more lemon juice to loosen the mixture. Keep adding the oil until you have the right amount of mayonnaise. Season with salt and pepper and taste to see if it needs a little more lemon.

Put a pan of water on to boil with a pinch of salt. Add the sea kale to the boiling water and cook for 4–5 minutes or until just tender, then, using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer on to kitchen paper and dab off any excess water. Divide the kale between the plates. Arrange 3 or 4 orange slices here and there on the kale and add a generous blob of mayonnaise. Scatter the viola flowers and a few leaves of the purslane or lamb’s lettuce over the top, then add a very light drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

LEMONY CHICKEN WITH FRESH CORIANDER

My sister Hester is a very organised person and over the years has kept notes of recipes from friends and family. This recipe is taken from the notes that she wrote while watching Rose (who had recently returned from Kerala) pounding and grinding the many spices that make the lemony chicken so fresh and vibrant. It became a regular supper in the house whenever we wanted something spicy and, as long as you get all the ingredients prepared first, it is fairly quick and easy to make.

There is a wonderfully pleasurable moment when you add the pounded spices to the fresh ginger and garlic in the hot oil – all the aromas are released and the whole kitchen fills with exotic smells.

SERVES 4

20g fresh root ginger, peeled and chopped into small chunks

3 garlic cloves, peeled

¼ tsp ground turmeric

2 tsp coriander seeds

2 tsp cumin seeds

¼ tsp cayenne pepper

1 medium-sized chicken, jointed into its various parts (the butcher will do this for you)

3 tbsp olive oil

juice of 1½ lemons

1 fresh green chilli, stalk removed, then finely chopped (deseed if you prefer it less hot)

1 small bunch of fresh coriander, leaves picked from their stems, washed, dried and finely chopped

sea salt and black pepper

Put the ginger into the food processor with 2–3 tablespoons of water and blend to a paste.

Put the garlic, turmeric, coriander and cumin seeds and cayenne pepper into a pestle and mortar and pound together.

Season the chicken pieces well all over with salt and pepper

Heat a drizzle of the olive oil in a shallow, heavy-based pan, add the chicken pieces and brown them on all sides – it may be easier to brown them in batches if your pan is too small to fit them in without overlapping. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken to a bowl.

Put the garlic and spice mixture into the still-hot pan (you may need to add a little more oil) and stir to release their flavours. Add the ginger and chopped chilli and stir-fry for a minute or so. Add the chicken pieces and any juices that have been released, then add 8 tablespoons of water and the lemon juice. Stir, then turn up the heat and bring to a boil, cover with a tight-fitting lid and turn the heat right down to a gentle simmer. Cook for 15 minutes until the chicken is tender and cooked through. Remove the lid and scatter the chopped coriander over. Serve with spiced basmati rice (see here (#ulink_0c202eb3-f2a7-564e-b15c-3b0e3f431fc2)).

SPICED BASMATI RICE

FOR 4 (GENEROUSLY)

300g basmati rice

2 tbsp olive oil

1 small red onion, peeled and finely chopped

½ small fresh green chilli, cut in half lengthways, deseeded, stalk removed, then finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

500ml chicken stock

sea salt

FOR THE GARAM MASALA

1 tbsp cardamom pods, husks removed – leaving 1 tsp cardamom seeds

½ cinnamon stick

1 tsp black cumin seeds

2 whole cloves

¼ whole nutmeg, grated on the zest part of the grater

½ tsp whole black peppercorns

Grind all the ingredients for the garam masala together in a pestle and mortar or coffee grinder.

Put the rice in a colander or sieve and wash under cold water until the water runs clear. Put the rice in a large bowl, cover with cold water and leave to soak for minutes, then leave to drain for 20 minutes or so.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy-based pan over a medium heat, add the onion and fry gently until light golden in colour. Add the chilli and garlic and cook for a further 2–3 minutes. Add the garam masala and cook for a further minute or so, then add the rice and stir together well, so that the rice is coated with the spices and oil. Add just enough chicken stock to cover the rice and season with a little salt, then cover with a lid and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down and simmer over a very low heat for 5 minutes. Take off the heat and leave covered for 10 minutes – the steam will keep the rice nice and fluffy. Taste to check if the rice is ready – it should have a little bite.

GUINEA FOWL WITH PROSCIUTTO, MASCARPONE AND LEMON

Theo Randall, the head chef at the River Café for many wonderful years, taught me how, with just a few simple ingredients, to turn a dull breast of chicken into something more exciting to eat … a little lemon zest grated into creamy mascarpone with some finely chopped rosemary and then stuffed between the chicken’s flesh and skin, followed by – to add more flavour – a small slice from the end of the Parma ham (this is the bit where the flavour is intensified, where the fat is just as sweet as the meaty bits). I like to make it with guinea fowl, with its slightly gamey flavour.

FOR 4

150g mascarpone