In the ketchup the lower temperatures for the longer periods of time were more effective in checking the development, even though they did not destroy the vitality. In the ketchup, with the exception of Nos. 9 and 10, the colonies started invariably along the sides of the flasks. The greater access of air to those on the sides would account for this. The conidia on the sides of flasks Nos. 9 and 10 must have been destroyed, as no development took place in either case except in the center of the surface.
The dry conidia were destroyed at 100 °C. when heated for thirty-five minutes; they did not reach a normal development in any case, even when heated for only ten minutes, many of the conidia being destroyed by this treatment. Where development failed to take place, the conidia were stained with a water solution of eosin, so as to be sure that the effect was death, and not an arrested development.
The results of the tests do not agree with those obtained in factory practice, where the ketchup is cooked at 100 °C. for at least forty minutes and sometimes for fifty or fifty-five minutes, depending on the consistency of the pulp.
HISTOLOGICAL STRUCTURE OF KETCHUP
In ketchup are found parts of all the various tissues of the tomato broken into fine pieces by the action of the cyclone. Although the sieves take out the seeds, skins, and any large pieces, particles of the various tissues are present in size sufficient for identification. Among the distinctive features are the red crystalline bodies in the parenchyma, which serve to a certain extent to distinguish the parenchyma from that of other plants which might be used for adulteration, and serve also to differentiate the natural from the artificially colored ketchup. Some of the red dye used colors all protoplasm indiscriminately, even that of the fungi present, and as a colored ketchup is usually poor stuff, containing many fungi, the mold filaments, yeast cells, and bacteria receive their share of the color. Other red dye used is in the form of fine powder, which does not go into solution, but is distributed as irregular particles which are distinct from the red crystalline bodies.
Good ketchup made from whole tomatoes has a clean appearance readily distinguishable under the microscope; but the poor ketchup has usually a superabundance of fungi present, fully developed colonies of mold, many forms of conidia, besides yeast-like cells, and different forms of bacteria. All of these may be dead, but neither preservatives nor dosage of odorous spices can disguise their presence. In some of the ketchup examined, which was put up in attractive form and labeled as being made from the whole tomatoes, and which had the appearance and odor of good ketchup, the microscope showed the presence of such quantities of fungi as to leave no doubt that the tomatoes were spoiled when cooked. It is presumable that some of the dealers placing this sort of stuff on the market do not know its condition themselves, and either buy their pulp from other factories or trust its manufacture to employees whose only care is that the ketchup shall have a bright color and shall “keep.” Some of the mould filaments and conidia are distorted in the same way as those of the Penicillium are when grown in ketchup to which sodium benzoate has been added.
The ketchup made from sound tomatoes and manufactured in a cleanly manner has practically no fungi present. The ketchup that was used in these experiments was made at different times during the season and was of this character, no bottle examined showing mold filaments when first opened.
MICROSCOPIC EXAMINATION OF SOME COMMERCIAL BRANDS
In examining ketchup the color, odor, amount of discoloration, presence of foreign tissue, foreign coloring matter, oil, and fungi were determined. If no preservative was mentioned, some of the ketchup was put in petri dishes and inoculated with Penicillium to determine whether growth could take place. The following examinations are reported, as they represent some of the best known brands on the market:
No. 9.– Opened September 2, 1907; age unknown; pint bottle; no preservative mentioned; not spoiled July 6 of following year. This ketchup was guaranteed to be made from fresh, ripe, tomatoes by a new process. The color is an unnatural red, has not faded, and the odor is good. The microscope showed the presence of much refuse, and large quantities of fungi, whole colonies of molds, the filaments distorted, many yeast cells, and bacteria. The red color was not confined to the red crystalline bodies, as is the case in ripe tomatoes, but the whole of the protoplasm of the cells, including the nucleus and nucleolus was red, as were also most of the mold filaments and yeast, indicating the presence of considerable artificial coloring matter. The structure indicated that the stock had been manufactured from “trimmings,” and further, that they were not fresh when used, but had fermented. There was no oil present. The “new process” is a success in keeping ketchup, as no preservative is mentioned. The price was 20 cents.
No. 112.– Another bottle of the same brand of ketchup; examined in April, 1908; presumably manufactured in 1907; one-twelfth of 1 per cent of sodium benzoate declared on label; a bright red; guaranteed to be from fresh ripe tomatoes and uncolored. The microscope showed no dyeing of the tissues, few fungi, and no extraneous matter. The price was 20 cents.
No. 17.– Opened September 28, 1907; age unknown; a pint bottle; sodium benzoate declared on supplemental label, no amount being stated; reddish brown color, badly discolored on top; greasy odor; not spoiled July 6, 1908; refuse present; large amount of oil; many fungi; the mold filaments enlarged and distorted. The price was 15 cents.
No. 109.– Another bottle of the same brand examined in April, 1908; presumably manufactured the preceding year; had one-tenth of 1 per cent of sodium benzoate; not spoiled July 6, 1908; reddish brown color, discolored near top; greasy odor. This was practically the same as the first bottle examined, had fewer mold filaments, but many bacteria.
No. 18.– Opened September 28, 1907; age unknown; pint bottle; no preservative mentioned; not spoiled July 6, 1908. A neck label stated that it is made from sound ripe tomatoes and uncolored. Color reddish brown; greasy odor; many oil globules; too many mold filaments and bacteria for sound tomatoes. Price 20 cents.
No. 113.– Another bottle of the same brand examined in April, 1908; said to have been manufactured in 1908; no preservative mentioned; not spoiled after standing open for seventy days; same as No. 18 in color and odor; oil and many fungi again present.
No. 10.– Opened September 2, 1907; age unknown; half-pint bottle; no preservative mentioned; not spoiled July 6, 1908. A neck label 2 inches in height guaranteed the highest quality; an extra label lower down on the neck stated the product to be the natural color, and made from fresh, ripe tomatoes; the regular label carried the brand, manufacturer’s name, etc. Color brown; sweetish odor; colonies of mold; distorted filaments; many bacteria; a few small oil globules. Price 25 cents.
No. 106.– Same brand; pint bottle; examined in April, 1908; said to be manufactured in 1907; color red, discolored near surface; 2-inch neck label in addition to regular label; no preservative mentioned; did not spoil in seventy days; oil globules; particles of red, amorphous matter; whole colonies of mold, as well as fragments of filaments; teeming with bacteria.
No. 77.– Different brand, but same manufacturer as Nos. 10 and 106; age unknown; pint bottle; one-twelfth of 1 per cent of sodium benzoate declared; opened December 1; placed in incubator at 95° F. for a month; not spoiled July 6; color reddish brown; greasy odor; oil globules, many mold filaments, and bacteria present. Price 20 cents.
No. 107.– Third brand from same manufacturer as preceding; said to be manufactured in 1907; half-pint bottle; one-twelfth of 1 per cent of benzoate of soda declared; layer of oil on surface; sweet odor; reddish-brown color. Oil globules prominent feature microscopically, whole colonies of distorted mold were present, and sample contained many different forms of bacteria. Price 10 cents.
No. 14.– Opened September 2, 1907; age unknown; no preservative mentioned; not spoiled July 6, 1908; half-pint bottle; color red; good odor; few bacteria; free from refuse. Price 25 cents.
No. 108.– Same brand as No. 14; said to be manufactured in 1907; pint bottle; one-tenth of 1 per cent of benzoate of soda declared; color red; good odor; few fungi; clean and free from refuse.
No. 33.– Opened October 24, 1907; age unknown; one-tenth of 1 per cent of benzoate of soda declared; spoiled November 1; pint bottle (14 ounces); sweetish odor; brown color; many molds, yeast and bacteria. Price 10 cents.
No. 114.– Same brand as No. 33; said to be manufactured in 1907; opened in April; not spoiled in seventy days; many molds, yeasts, and bacteria; some green tissue, and filaments of algæ. The price was 10 cents.
SUMMARY
1. The experiments made during the season of 1907 on the manufacture of tomato ketchup without chemical preservatives were conducted under factory conditions and upon a commercial scale. The results prove that such a ketchup can be made and delivered to the consumer in perfect condition; the product in question having already stood ten months, unopened, without showing the slightest indication of spoilage.
2. The product is of excellent consistency, flavor, and color. The formula employed regularly in the factory where the experiment was conducted was used, but other recipes could be adapted without changing the character of special brands. In the manufacture of such a product the following precautions were observed:
(a) Whole, sound, ripe tomatoes and high-grade salt, sugar, vinegar, and spices were used; care and cleanliness were observed at every step of the preparation, and the preservation accomplished by heat in the following manner: The pulp was cooked in a steam kettle for about forty minutes, until the mass was reduced to about one-half its volume. Additional processing after bottling did not appear to be necessary to keep the ketchup before opening, and had no effect in these experiments in delaying spoilage after opening.
(b) Ketchup was bottled directly from the cooker at a temperature of 205° F. in bottles prepared in two ways: (1) Sterilized in a steam chamber at 230° F.; (2) Washed in hot water, rinsed, and heated to 190° F. in a dry heat for at least thirty minutes. Ketchup was also bottled after the usual process of sieving at 165° F. in bottles prepared in a similar manner. The corks for all bottles were sterilized in a paraffin bath at 270° F. The same ketchup which was bottled at 165° F. was also given subsequent processing at 190° F. and 212° F. for twenty and forty minutes. All have kept without spoilage.
3. Some of the condiments have a limited antiseptic value, but can not be depended upon to prevent spoilage in the quantities used for flavoring. While sugar and vinegar can be added in such amounts as to delay the appearance of molds, and cinnamon and cloves can be depended upon to check deterioration to some extent, these condimental substances have only an incidental value for this purpose.
4. The spoilage of ketchup after opening depends more upon the temperature of the place in which it is kept than on any variation in the manner of processing. Fresh ketchup held, after opening, at a temperature of 95° F. kept for five days on an average without any trace of mold appearing; at 72° it kept for six days; at 67° for eight days; about 46° (refrigerator), fourteen days; and at from 30° to 60° for twenty-seven days. These figures represent the time at which the first trace of spoilage occurred in the neck of the bottle – had this been removed the figures would be much increased – and by no means represent the maximum time during which the ketchup could have been used, the maximum figures, even under these conditions of observation, varying from eight to fifty-eight days. The keeping of the ketchup in warm storage at 70° for one hundred and fifty days before opening hastened the average time of spoilage after opening about one day. The advisability of using small containers, to get the best results with a first-class ketchup, is apparent.
5. Sodium benzoate, even when used in the proportion of 0.1 per cent, is not always effective, and has an injurious effect upon the living matter of the molds, shown by the distortion and swelling of the filaments, which are filled with a coarse granular protoplasm containing much fat.
6. Artificially colored ketchup can be detected under the microscope by the fact that certain tissues, normally colorless, are dyed red, or by the presence of fine, red, amorphous particles which do not go into solution.
7. Ketchup made from whole ripe stock in a cleanly manner gives a clean appearance under the microscope, but few molds, yeasts, and bacteria being present. On the other hand, ketchup made from trimming stock, or from tomatoes that have been allowed to spoil, contains immense quantities of these growing organisms which may be killed in the process of manufacture, but still give proof of the character of the material used. Ketchup as ordinarily made from trimming stock should, therefore, be designated, so as to differentiate it from that made from sound fresh tomatoes, as the two products are radically different. This exactness in labeling is due no less to the manufacturer than to the consumer, as it is impossible to make the superior product in fair competition with the inferior one, other conditions being equal, unless the two are properly designated, there being naturally some difference in the price.
notes
1
Origin of Cultivated Plants, 1890.
2
Webber, H. J., Yearbook, U. S. Department of Agriculture, 1899.
3
U. S. Dept. Agr., Exper. Sta. Record, 1899-1900, 11: 250.
4
Brannt, W. L., A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Vinegar, 1900, p. 455.
5
Principles and Practice of Brewing, 1907, p. 284.
6
Ibid., p. 281.