Tequila Made Me Do It: 60 tantalising tequila and mezcal cocktails

It was then that Quetzalcoatl (God of the Wind and Feathered Serpent) searched the heavens for Mayahuel, to return her to Earth to find a solution for making men happy. After escaping from her guardian grandmother, the goddess Mayahuel and Quetzalcoatl fell in love on their way back to Earth. When her grandmother realised that Mayahuel was gone, she and the other tzitzimime chased Mayahuel. As soon as they reached Earth, the couple attempted to hide, transforming themselves into a tree with two single branches. The tzitzimime destroyed the branch of Mayahuel, shredding her to pieces and leaving the branch of Quetzalcoatl intact. The inconsolable god picked up the pieces of his beloved and buried them in a nearby field. From her remains, a beautiful plant with large, pointed leaves eventually emerged. This is the maguey, from which, when its trunk is scraped, a sweet liquid flows. When fermented, that liquid becomes becomes octli, or pulque.

That was how, tragically, the mission was accomplished. The two gods managed to awaken the joy in men, but at great personal cost. Represented as a young woman with multiple breasts from which the aguamiel, or honey water, flows, Mayahuel feeds the Centzon Totochtin, or 400 Rabbits, gods of drunkenness and pulque. The cult to Mayahuel has come to be associated with fertility, Earth and the plant world.

A NOBLE PLANT

Agave (n.) From Greek agauos ‘noble, illustrious’

It is no coincidence that the taxonomical name for this genus of plants stems from the Greek word for nobility. In Mexico, referred to locally as maguey, agave plants are scattered throughout the Mexican landscape, from the northwestern state of Sonora all the way down to the southeastern Yucatan Peninsula. Food, drink, medicine, fuel, fibres, fertiliser and the construction of homes are just some of the things this plant was used for by the early settlers of Mesoamerica, and the use of agave in cooking and fibres persists in Mexico to this day.

As a key part of the survival and establishment of these tribes, Mexico became the centre for domestication and diversification of agave plants. Varietals were selected for their fibres, their aguamiel (honey water) or for the high sugar content provided after the hearts were cooked. As a result, agaves have their highest concentration of varietals in Mexico. Of the more than 200 species of agaves known to exist in the Americas, more than 150 of them are found in Mexico, and 129 – or 69 per cent – are exclusive to Mexico. This makes them one of the most conspicuous symbols of the Mexican territory. Found mostly in arid and semi-arid regions of Mexico, agaves can be seen in more than 75 per cent of the country’s landscape and have the capacity to adapt to the most unfavourable conditions, including long periods of drought and high temperatures.

One of the most remarkable aspects of agaves is their age. The larger species can reach their maturity between 10 and 25 years, while smaller species can grow up to four and five years. This often-overlooked characteristic of agaves is what makes tequila and mezcal production so unique and rare. While other neutral spirits acquire flavour and character from being aged for years in wooden barrels, agave spirits acquire these characteristics from years of the plants remaining in the fields, absorbing properties from the soil and energy from the moon and sun, giving rise to the term reposado en campo, or aged in fields.

FROM MEXICO WITH LOVE

Protected designations of origin

A designation of origin is the differentiator used to recognise products that have originated from a specific region, whose quality and characteristics pertain to the environment in which they were developed. Mexico proudly boasts 14 protected designations of origin, which include spirits such as tequila, mezcal, bacanora, sotol and charanda.

Not only are these designations intended to preserve the tradition and production processes that make each product unique, they also protect the integrity and quality, by making it impossible to be replicated outside of their designated regions. Protected designations of origin exist all over the world. In Mexico, they are protected and governed by the Law of Industrial Property, but some of the PDOs are also recognised and protected worldwide by the Lisbon Agreement, of which Mexico has been a member since 1958. The first Mexican PDO recognised by the Lisbon Agreement, and one of the most emblematic, was tequila in the year 1974.

TEQUILA (#ulink_bc450219-286d-5dbb-bb0f-22df5a61a7b9)

Tequila: the universal word for Mexico. Say ‘Mexico’ anywhere in the world, and the immediate response is almost certain to be: ‘TEQUILA!’ Tequila, as the title of this book suggests, has made us dance till the break of dawn, given us the courage to finally go up to that person at the bar or simply let go of the worries of the world. Recognised worldwide as Mexico’s national drink, tequila is synonymous with celebration, Mexican pride and romance. But what exactly is tequila, and why can’t we get enough of it?

The original term for the spirit now known as tequila was Vino de Mezcal de Tequila. Long before the declaration of any PDO, the New Spain recognised any agave spirit as a Vino de Mezcal; ‘de Tequila’ referred to its region. In this case, the village of Jalisco has become known as the birthplace of this popular spirit. It wasn’t until 1887 that the term Vino de Mezcal was dropped, and ‘tequila’ became recognised around the world.

Tequila is the product made from the fermentation and distillation of cooked agave juices. In this case, the Agave tequilana Weber – a blue agave varietal that grows in arid and semi-arid regions of Mexico. As one of Mexico’s most recognisable PDOs, it can only be produced within the states of Jalisco, Guanajuato, Nayarit, Michoacan and Tamaulipas over nearly 120,000 acres. Each plant takes eight to ten years to mature to be harvested. Enter the jimador, who skillfully slashes all the leaves from the agave, leaving only the piña, or heart.

Today’s production process is essentially the same as in the 15th century, with a few technological advances. The agaves were cut into two to four pieces and placed in an extensive stone-lined hole/oven in the ground, with wood at the bottom. The oven remained covered with dirt until the agaves were fully roasted, a process that could take 24 to 72 hours. Once cooked, the juices were extracted in a tahona: a circular track where a large round stone would turn several times over the agaves, pulled by a mule, crushing and separating the sweet juice and fibres, or must. The juices were then carried by buckets into fermenting tanks (often made of wood, clay or leather hide). The musts were agitated and left to ferment naturally (using wild yeasts) over the course of 12 to 18 days.

Once fermentation was completed, the liquid was placed in copper pots or alembic stills. The fermented liquid was boiled to separate water from the alcohol through evaporation, to be condensed in an iron cauldron with cold water. The alcohol was again distilled to reach the desired proof and to separate the heads and tail – undesirable byproducts of distillation. The alcohol obtained in the middle of the process was the desired quality, known as the tequila real.

Changes to production have been minimal. Instead of underground ovens, brick ovens or steel autoclaves are used. The use of mechanical crushers has also reduced time and increased juice extraction. Including non-agave sugars and controlled yeasts has accelerated fermentation. Stainless steel has replaced traditional wooden tanks, and steel stills for copper pot stills.

THE RISE OF TEQUILA

After the 7th-century invasion of the Iberian Peninsula by Muslim forces, distillation knowledge was adopted by the Spaniards, who brought it to the New World. There, they encountered an indigenous population that enjoyed the inebriating effect of sweet fermented agave juice. Once the conquerors ran out of their high-proof brandy, they shared their distillation techniques with local tribes, to transform the local fermented drink into a spirit known as mexicali (meaning ‘cooked agave’).

While initially, tequila was produced for consumption only, the hacendados could see commercial potential. It wasn’t long before the popularity of Vino de Mezcal began to pose an economic threat to Spanish alcohol, and authorities of New Spain banned agave spirits. In 1785, the first formal prohibition took place, in the form of a Royal Order. This led to clandestine production and an underground market. However, controlling the distilleries became a costly task, and in 1795 the Spanish King gave consent to Juan Antonio Cuervo to produce tequila.

Over the years, Mexico rode out tumultuous times, and tequila’s popularity reflected the contemporary situation. The Europeanisation of Mexico in the late 19th century once again favoured European spirits, diminishing the tequila industry. However, years after the Mexican Revolution, local and global affairs led to the resurgence of tequila.

The prohibition of alcohol in the United States from 1920 to 1933 opened the gates for tequila to enter American hearts, crossing the Bravo River illegally and satisfying thirsty palates in speakeasies across the country. Back in Mexico, the Golden Age of Mexican cinema in the 1930s gave rise to the stereotype of the Mexican man – a tequila-drinking, cattle-ranching, mariachi-singing womaniser – and tequila was once again a national symbol.

TYPES OF TEQUILA

The rise of tequila’s popularity and its distinct flavour allowed opportunists outside of Mexico to try and cash in on tequila’s success by mimicking spirits and trying to pass them off as original tequilas. In 1973, some of the main Tequileros began lobbying for the declaration of a protected designation of origin, to cover the states of Jalisco and Nayarit. On 22 November 1974, with the addition of the states of Tamaulipas, Michoacan and Guanajuato, the Ministry of Industry and Commerce declared the Protected Designation of Origin ‘Tequila’.

TEQUILA BREAKDOWN

Tequila is classified into two categories depending on the quantity of agave sugars and other sugars added during fermentation. After the tequila is distilled, it is sold in four main presentations, depending on the amount of time aged in oak barrels.

100% Agave - As the classification suggests, this is the spirit obtained from only the sugars of Agave tequilana Weber or blue agave, cultivated in the territory included in the Declaration of the PDO.

Mixto - Spirit obtained from musts that have been enriched or mixed with sugars other than Agave tequilana Weber, in a percentage no greater than 49%.

Blanco/Plata (Silver) - Unaged tequila.

Joven/Oro (Gold) - A blend of blanco tequila with reposado, añejo or extra añejo.

Reposado - Tequila aged in oak barrels for less than two months. A blend between reposado and añejo or extra añejo tequilas can also be considered reposado.

Añejo - Tequila aged in oak barrels for a minimum of one year. A blend of añejo and extra añejo tequilas.

Extra Añejo - Tequila aged in oak barrels for a minimum of three years.

MEZCAL (#ulink_c48c8155-ca96-5645-b10c-68c23ac1f6f9)

Para todo mal mezcal, para todo bien tambien.

‘For everything bad, mezcal, for everything good as well.’

Mezcal is the second-most popular Protected Designation of Origin of Mexico’s spirits. Unlike tequila’s standardised production method, mezcal is all about diversity. It can be made from over 40 agave varietals found in the nine designated states. Oaxaca, Guerrero, Guanajuato, San Luis Potosí, Zacatecas, Durango, Tamaulipas, Michoacán and Puebla are all part of the mezcal PDO, spanning 500,000 km

(193,000 sq. mi.) and making it the largest PDO in the world. But this enigmatic spirit hasn’t always been popular. Long ostracised, mezcal was portrayed as the poor man’s spirit. It is no secret that tequila has played a role in tarnishing mezcal’s reputation, favouring tequila over other agave spirits.

But even as discerning palates indulged in tequila, there were always those whose own defying nature, in the quest for adventure, would wander into strange territories, much like Alice, and tumble down the rabbit hole of mezcal. Aficionados would render themselves enamoured of the fiery spirit of Oaxaca. Mezcal may have been neglected over the years, but to anyone with a desire for the unknown, it remains a spirit with the power to inspire imbibers for generations to come.

The production process for mezcal is the same as tequila. However, the vast majority of mezcals produced today still possess an artisanal quality of the elements and processes used during roasting, crushing, fermentation and distillation. In Oaxaca, where more than 80 per cent of mezcals are produced, a traditional palenque (distillery) is composed of an underground, stone-lined oven, a tahona, wooden open-air fermentation tanks and simple copper pot stills. These parts, especially the signature cooking method of roasting the agaves in an underground firewood oven, is what gives mezcal its distinct smokiness. The production capacity of mezcal is much smaller than tequila. The production of a single palenque with two 350-litre stills can range from 10,000–12,000 litres a year. In other words, mezcal is micro-distilled.

The most common agave varietal used in mezcal is Agave espadín (angustifolia Haw), whose cultivation originated in Oaxaca in the mid-20th century. Today, more than 75 per cent of mezcal is from espadín agaves, chosen for their larger piñas and higher sugar concentration. Wild agaves are also used to create rare and exclusive variations, elevating them to the luxury spirits market. Agaves like the Potatorum or Tobala can be found in isolated regions in the high sierras of Oaxaca. These smaller agaves are highly aromatic and can be very complex in flavour, with notes of lavender, cardamom and lime zest. Another popular wild agave is the Madrecuixe, with earthy notes of cacao, clay and butterscotch.

The rise in mezcal’s popularity has not only generated income to some of Mexico’s most isolated regions, it has also allowed migrant labourers to return to their communities and work in their forgotten trade. The increase in demand for rare agave spirits has generated opportunities for rural populations to create long-term businesses and the promise of a future for generations to come.

TYPES OF MEZCAL

The PDO for mezcal was declared in 1994. Mezcal is predominantly produced with 100% Agave and can be classified into the following categories:

Mezcal (Industrial) - Mezcal produced using modern technology that can include autoclaves, mechanical crushers, stainless steel fermentation tanks and continuous or column stills.

Mezcal Artesanal - Mezcal produced using traditional methods, including underground stone-lined ovens, tahonas, or manual crushing, fermentation tanks made from wood, clay, stone or hide, and traditional copper alembic stills.

Mezcal Ancestral - Mezcal produced using the same methods as the Mezcal Artesenal, with the added use of clay vessels for distillation.

MEZCAL DE PECHUGA - Mezcal distilled with additional ingredients can also be known as Mezcal de Pechuga. This is triple-distilled in single pot copper stills with a maceration of seasonal fruits and spices, including tejocote, guava, pineapple, apples, cinnamon and clove, depending on the producer. After a batch of espadín mezcal is made, it is added back to the still with the fruit. A raw turkey breast is suspended over the still in a mesh cloth. The mezcal distills again, absorbing oils from the fruit. While it evaporates, it permeates the turkey breast, obtaining fats and oils from the meat’s juices, adding a velvety texture to the resulting spirit.

MARGARITA (#ulink_fa77c9e5-ea74-50d6-8d6d-45dc0e1a07f9)