Baltimore Hats, Past and Present

At the close of the Revolutionary War the population of Baltimore was 5000; in 1800 it was 26,614. The first United States census, taken in 1810, places the number at 35,580, and in 1820 it had grown to be a prosperous commercial city of 62,738 inhabitants.

The persistent patriotism of Baltimore throughout the Revolutionary War was proverbial; the strong intelligence of a majority of its citizens, though of foreign birth, gave them an intuitive knowledge of the distinction between right and wrong, and a fine sense of honor and justice prompted them to act as well as theorize, consequently their personal convictions as to the allegiance they owed their adopted country enabled the city of their choice to assume a strong and patriotic attitude in behalf of America's struggle, and incited them to act with the native element in expelling from their midst all who indulged in hostile acts or expressions. But one sentiment prevailed in Baltimore during the period of the war – that of loyalty to country. The courteous attention and honor paid by citizens to many of those who attained distinction in the war lent great assistance to Baltimore in quickly recovering from the damage she had sustained, and gave to the city a renown for hospitality which has remained by her to the present day.

Washington, Lafayette, Count Rochambeau, and many others united in unrestricted praises of Baltimore's patriotism and liberality, and General Vallette, who commanded a French division of troops, declared: "I will never forget the happy days I have passed among you, citizens of Baltimore, and I beg you will believe that your remembrance will be forever dear to my memory."

The famous General Greene, of Rhode Island, on his way homeward from the war in the South, stopped in Baltimore and gave his impression of the city in 1783 as follows:

"Baltimore is a most thriving place. Trade nourishes, and the spirit of building exceeds belief. Not less than three hundred houses are put up in a year. Ground rents are little short of what they are in London. The inhabitants are all men of business."

The period from 1800-30, although interrupted by the war of 1812, when the city was made the immediate battle-ground, was marked by a wonderful growth in both commercial and industrial occupations, and, in common with the general prosperity of the place, hat-making also flourished. In 1810 Maryland is found, from the United States census reports, to have taken the lead in the production of fur hats. Aside from the custom with some retailers of making and finishing the hats they sold, we find in the year 1818 several firms engaged in the manufacture of hats. The products of these factories were distributed throughout the entire South, a section the natural resources of which enabled its people to easily recuperate from the war and quickly become large purchasers and consumers of goods which they did not themselves manufacture. In addition to this desirable field of business was the region of the "Far West," then comprising Ohio, Kentucky and Tennessee, the rapid increase of which in population by emigration greatly enlarged the demand for the products of Baltimore's hat industry. This being the most accessible seaport city, regular traffic by wagon trains was established, connecting Baltimore with the West, and giving to the former such superior advantages as to enable its enterprising merchants to secure a large trade, which they long and tenaciously held.

The city directories of that period were not, as now-a-days, issued annually, but at intervals of three or four years, and while furnishing much valuable information, cannot be relied upon for complete correctness, the main object of the compiler being to get the names of house-holders and business men, while many who were temporarily employed, and all who were unmarried though permanently employed, were omitted from registration. Thus the Directory of 1818 does not give a full list of hatters in this city at that time, for while it appears that there were in operation in Baltimore twenty-five hat establishments in the year 1818 (five or six of which were extensive manufactories), the Directory does not show any fair proportion of the number that then must have been engaged in the occupation of hat-making. It may be safely estimated from the extent and the activity of this branch of business at that time, that it gave employment to at least three hundred hands.

Before the year 1810 the "taper crown" or "steeple top" had yielded to the uncompromising demands of fashion, and a style appeared quite different from that which existed at the opening of the century. It had so expanded its crown as to become "bell" in place of "taper," a change so manifestly popular that the "bell crown" since that time, though subject in a greater or less degree to occasional alterations in its proportions, has been for a dress hat the generally accepted style.

In the style of 1810, Fashion, indulging as she not infrequently does, in a gymnastic summersault from one extreme to another, went in this instance quite as far as prudence would allow: the crown was about seven inches in height and about eight and one-quarter inches across the tip, with a brim about two-and-a-quarter inches wide, the hat being thickly napped with long beaver fur and trimmed with a wide band and buckle. Following the year 1810 there came a reduction in heights of crowns as well as in the proportions of "bell," and a modified style prevailed until the year 1835, when it again developed into an extreme "bell" shape with a very narrow brim, a style so utterly extravagant as to bring it into ridicule.

SOME OLD FIRMS

No. 6

OF the hatters engaged in business in Baltimore during the early part of this century, many are worthy of more than passing notice as men of honest character, strict in their dealings and successful in their business undertakings, gaining the respect of their fellow-townsmen and becoming honored and trusted citizens of a growing community.

When it is known what were the social surroundings of the "old time" hatter in his youth, it seems a matter of surprise that such good fruit should spring from so unpromising soil.

No one was supposed to be capable of conducting the retail hat business unless he had served his term of apprenticeship to the trade, and apprenticeship in those days was no trivial matter. It meant the surrender at an early age of home, with its parental influences – a most dangerous experience for the untrained youth to encounter – and was entered into by contract for a term of years, binding master and hand to its faithful execution; not merely a verbal agreement between parties themselves, but one solemnly executed by parent and employer, ratified and signed before a magistrate and made binding after all this legal form by the attachment of the portentous seal of the Orphans' Court, before the boy could be considered bounden as "an apprentice to the trade." This was virtually a surrender of all domestic control, giving to one not of "kith or kin" absolute guardianship of the boy. The habits and morals of the "'prentice" were often a secondary consideration, if not wholly neglected.

Thus, as a class, the journeyman hatters often developed into loose, shiftless, migratory characters, spending their liberal wages freely, with no ambition beyond that of daily support; and the surprise is that from such a source came notably honorable men, whose lives seemed to contradict the whole theory of the influence of early training. To these worthy pioneers belongs the credit of laying a secure foundation for a trade that from humble beginnings has developed into one of the most prominent industries of the country, requiring extensive capital, liberal business capacity, and one that gives employment to a large, intelligent and skillful class of people.

Among those conducting the hatting business in Baltimore at the opening of the present century, Mr. Jacob Rogers, from his long and successful business career, as well as from being the only one through whom it has been possible to connect this special industry as it existed before the Revolution, with that of the present time, ranks most prominently.

What year Mr. Rogers commenced business cannot be ascertained, but as early as 1796, being nearly 30 years of age, he is found established at the corner of South and Second streets, and in the year 1844 (almost the middle of another century), after the lapse of nearly fifty years, and while actively engaged in business pursuits, his life was suddenly ended; his funeral taking place from his residence, at South and Second streets, his home for more than half a century.

About the year 1805 Mr. Rogers erected a large factory on Second street near Tripolet's alley (now Post-Office avenue). This building was about one hundred and fifty feet long, forty wide, and four stories in height. Afterwards a wing extension of considerable proportions was added.

This establishment was one of the "big" concerns of the day, and Mr. Rogers was credited with conducting, at this time, the most extensive and prosperous hat business in the United States.

To-day not a vestige remains of Mr. Rogers' factory, and upon its site is the extensive structure of the Corn and Flour Exchange. His store, at the corner of South and Second streets, still remains, however, having been remodeled from that of Mr. Rogers' time, the ground-floor being now occupied by H.W. Totebush as a cigar store.

In 1819 Mr. Rogers took as partner in business his eldest son, George, the firm becoming Jacob Rogers & Son. In 1823 Mr. Rogers leased from the Carroll family the property No. 129 West Baltimore street, at the corner of Public alley (now Grant street), where a branch establishment was opened, both establishments being continued up to the time of Mr. Rogers' death, in 1844, at which time the firm was "Jacob Rogers & Sons," William, another son, having been admitted about the year 1835.

Upon the occasion of celebrating the laying of the cornerstone of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad in Baltimore, July 4, 1828 (a great event in the annals of the city), the exhibition of trades was a most prominent feature of the immense procession, and none made a finer display than the hatters. George Rogers commanded that division, a description of which is thus given in the Baltimore Gazette and Daily Advertiser of July 5, 1828: "The hatters' car was drawn by four horses, showing the men at work in the several stages of hat-making. The group attracted much attention; they carried a banner with a white ground, and on the shield was a beaver resting on a scroll bearing the motto: 'With the industry of the beaver we support our rights,' crossed with implements of the trade, the whole supported by the motto: 'We cover all.'"

Bazil Sollers commenced business in 1799 at No. 68 Market street, a location on the north side of the street, four doors east of what is now Holliday street. In 1803 he removed to No. 22 Market street, also on the north side, four doors west of Harrison street; this latter place was previously occupied by Brant & Hobby as a hat store in 1801, and by Stansbury & Hobby in 1802. Mr. Sollers continued in business on Market street until the year 1831, when he removed to North Gay, No. 15, on the northwest corner of Front street. His factory was on East, now Fayette street, three doors east of Lemon street. Mr. Sollers continued in the manufacturing business until about the year 1840.

James Gould & Co. started hat-manufacturing at No. 3 Water street in the year 1802. Water street at that time was numbered from Calvert to South street, subsequently from South to Calvert, and lately renumbered as formerly. No. 3, the second building from Calvert, is now occupied by J.E. Warner & Co., commission merchants. In 1807 Joseph Cox succeeded to the business of James Gould & Co., and kept a retail store on the corner of South and Water streets. Mr. Cox had the reputation of making a superior class of hats, excelled by no manufacturer in the country, selling at both wholesale and retail. Requiring more extensive accommodations, he located his factory on the corner of Little Water and Calvert streets, where now stands the large warehouse of Keen & Hagerty, tinware manufacturers. In 1829, disposing of his hat business to Boston & Elder, he associated with himself his son James, the firm becoming "James Cox & Son, dealers in hatters' furs and wools," at No. 1 South Liberty street. In latter years, the members of this firm having acquired a competency, retired from business.

Joseph Pearson was established as a hat manufacturer in 1809, having his shop on Green, now Exeter street, Old Town. He changed his business in the year 1824 to that of dealer in furs, for which Baltimore in early days was a good market, the catch of the trappers of the Alleghanies and of the pioneers of the new West finding their way to Baltimore, and the otter and muskrat of lower Maryland, Virginia and North Carolina also coming in large quantities to this market. The fur business of Baltimore was then of sufficient importance for Jacob Astor to make Mr. Pearson his representative agent. In latter years the firm became Joseph Pearson & Son, dealers in hatters' furs and trimmings, at 260 Baltimore street. All the members of this firm being dead, Edward Connolly, who was in their employ, succeeded to the business, afterwards changing it to a general hat-jobbing business, which is still conducted by Edward Connolly & Son at 207 W. Baltimore street.

John Amos was a well known and respected hatter of Old Town, who commenced business as early as the year 1809 at No. 39 Bridge street, on the north side of the present North Gay street, between High and Exeter. His "back shop," or factory, was on Hillen street. He continued business during the period of thirty years at the same place, and died in 1847 at the age of 67.

PATRIARCHS OF THE TRADE

No. 7

GLEANING more closely in the historic field of the early part of the century, others are found whose enterprise contributed largely to this important industry of Baltimore, and whose successful prosecution of the hat business maintained the credit and position won by their predecessors.

In the year 1814 Runyon Harris erected a large hat factory on Fish, now Saratoga street. This building was about one hundred and twenty-five feet in length and two and a half stories high.

The business of this establishment was carried on under the style of "The Baltimore Hat Manufacturing Co." While evidence cannot be given, it may be inferred that Mr. Harris must, before this date, have been engaged elsewhere in the city in the manufacture of hats, as others entering into business about this time are known to have been apprenticed to Mr. Harris.

In 1817 Aaron Clap & Co. commenced the retail hat business at 146 Market street, on the north side, five doors east of St. Paul street, and probably identical with the present 104 East Baltimore street, recently occupied by John Murphy & Co., Publishers.

Messrs. Clap & Co. having secured a good location by purchasing the factory of Runyon Harris, engaged extensively in the manufacturing business, which was continued by their several successors down to the year 1864, when results of the civil war (so disastrous to Maryland's manufacturing industries) caused its temporary abandonment, but the enterprise established by Messrs. Aaron Clap & Co. has, by an unbroken series of firms, continued to the present time, being now represented by Brigham, Hopkins & Co.

In 1817 Henry Lamson kept a first-class retail hat store at No. 5 South Calvert street, the locality now the southwest corner of Carroll Hall building. In 1822 the firm of Aaron Clap & Co. and Henry Lamson consolidated, making the firm Lamson & Clap, and continuing the retail business at No. 5 South Calvert street, in connection with manufactory. Mr. Lamson in 1827 went to the West Indies in search of health, and died on the island of St. Thomas. He was a gentleman of much social refinement, and was held in high esteem as a citizen.

In the year 1827 the firm of Lamson & Clap was dissolved by the death of Mr. Lamson, and Mr. Wm. P. Cole was admitted, the firm becoming Clap, Cole & Co. After the death of Mr. Clap, which occurred in 1834, his widow's interest was retained and the firm was changed to Cole, Clap & Co.; following this, Mrs. Clap retired and Mr. Hugh J. Morrison became a member of the firm, which was made Cole & Morrison. In 1842 Thaddeus and William G. Craft became interested, the firm becoming Cole, Craft & Co., still continuing business at No. 5 South Calvert street (the same place established by Lamson & Clap). About the year 1850 the firm removed to No. 218 West Baltimore street, now 10 East Baltimore street and occupied by Likes, Berwanger & Co., clothiers. In 1853 Mr. Cole associated with him his son, William R., the firm being Wm. P. Cole & Son. In 1857 the firm moved to No. 274 West Baltimore street, present number 46, where they remained until the year 1867, removing then to occupy the building which they had erected at No. 30 Sharp street, now 24 Hopkins Place.

In 1861 Mr. Wm. T. Brigham was admitted to the firm, it then becoming Wm. R. Cole & Co. In 1870 the firm name was again changed to Cole, Brigham & Co., which was dissolved in 1877 by the withdrawal of Mr. Brigham, in which year Mr. Brigham associated with Robert D. Hopkins as the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, locating at No. 128 West Fayette street (present number 211), which firm of Brigham & Hopkins continued until 1887, when it was changed to Brigham, Hopkins & Co. by the admission of Isaac H. Francis.

In 1884 Brigham & Hopkins erected the large and handsome building at the corner of German and Paca streets, which the present firm continue to occupy as a factory and salesroom.

In 1810 Andrew Ruff is found at No. 72 Camden street, likely to have been his place of residence. Whether he was then engaged in business is not known, but in 1817 he had a factory on Davis street between Lexington and Saratoga streets, the site now occupied by the stables of the Adams Express Company. About the year 1822 he established a retail store at 158 Baltimore street. In 1842 the firm was Andrew Ruff & Co., at 194 Baltimore street. At one time Mr. Ruff was foreman in the manufacturing establishment of Clap & Cole.

Henry Jenkins, in 1822, was a hat manufacturer at 28 Green street, Old Town, and from 1824 to 1830 Messrs. H. & W. S. Jenkins kept a hat store on the northeast corner of Baltimore and Calvert streets, where afterwards was erected the banking-house of Josiah Lee & Co., now occupied by the Pennsylvania Railroad Company as a ticket office.

Joseph Branson was a hatter in the year 1827 at 182 Market street. He was a son of William Branson, who was engaged in the same business from 1796 to 1817. Joseph Branson ranked as the fashionable hatter of that time. He was a man of considerable military distinction in the State. He raised and commanded the famous Marion Rifles, a superb military organization of the city, to which was accorded the honor of receiving General Lafayette upon his visit to Baltimore in 1824.

Mr. Branson is said to have been the first to introduce a thorough system of military tactics in Baltimore. He served several terms in the City Council, and was an active, enterprising citizen. In the year 1831 he went out of business and took the position of inspector in the custom house.

Mr. Charles Grimes was a well-known hatter who commenced business at 42 Baltimore street about 1823. In 1831 he removed to No. 29 North Gay, near High street. He evidently had a love for his first choice, as in 1833 he is found again at 42 Baltimore street. Mr. Grimes retired from business as early as the year 1839. He was extremely fond of the Maryland sport of duck shooting, in which he was associated with many of Baltimore's sporting gentlemen. In 1853 he removed to Philadelphia, enjoying a life of comfort and ease. He was an exemplary man in all the relations of life, and died in the year 1868 at the advanced age of 73.

In 1810 John Petticord was learning his trade with Jacob Rogers, being then fourteen years of age. His honesty and faithfulness were appreciated by his employer, and in 1814 he occupied the position of foreman in Mr. Rogers' factory. After continuing in that capacity for some time he commenced the manufacture of hats on his own account, continuing it until the feebleness of age compelled him to abandon it.

Thomas Sappington was a hat manufacturer who, in the year 1831, was located at No. 120 Baltimore street, which at that time was at or near the present number, 116 East Baltimore street. He had his factory on North street near Saratoga. It is known that he was in business for a number of years, but what year he commenced and when he abandoned business cannot be ascertained.

Victor Sarata was a Frenchman who located in Baltimore as early as 1838. He opened a retail store at 259 Baltimore street, and was the first one to introduce the silk hat in this city.

Wm. H. Keevil was a hatter doing a retail business in 1842 at 66-1/2 Baltimore street. He was evidently of the "buncombe" style, and conducted his business in a sensational manner, advertising extensively and brazenly, as will be seen from the following quotation from an advertisement of his printed in 1842:

"Who talks of importing hats from England while Keevil is in the field? Pshaw! 'Tis sheer folly. For while he continues to sell his beautiful hats at his present reduced prices, any such speculation as importing hats from Europe will be 'no go' or 'non-effect.' The hatters, therefore, on the other side of the Atlantic had better keep their hats at home, as it would be quite as profitable for them to send 'wooden nutmegs' and 'sawdust hams' to New England, or coals to Newcastle, as hats to Baltimore to compete with the well-known Keevil."

His business existence could not have been of long continuance, as in 1850 his name is not found in the City Directory.

At the close of the first half of this century there were several who afterwards attained prominence both in business and a public capacity, among whom were Joshua Vansant, Samuel Hindes, Charles Towson, George K. Quail, James L. McPhail, P.E. Riley, John Boston, Ephraim Price, Robert Q. Taylor, Lewis Raymo and others, the last two mentioned being the only ones now living.

JACOB ROGERS