The Toilet of Flora

60. Compound Balm-Water, commonly called Eau de Carmes

Take of the fresh Leaves of Balm, a quarter of a pound; Yellow Rind of Lemons, two ounces; Nutmegs and Coriander-seeds, of each one ounce; Cloves, Cinnamon, and Angelica Root, of each half an ounce: having pounded the spices and seeds; and bruised the leaves and roots, put them with a quart of Brandy into a glass cucurbit, of which stop the mouth, and set it in a warm place, where let it remain two or three days. Then add a pint of simple Balm-water, and shake the whole well together; after which distil in a vapour bath till the ingredients are left almost dry; and preserve the water thus obtained, in bottles well stopped.

This water has been long famous at Paris and London, and carried thence to most parts of Europe. It has the reputation of being a cordial of very extraordinary virtues, and not only of availing in all lowness of spirits, but even in apoplexies. It is also much esteemed in cases of the gout in the stomach; whence the Carmelite Friars, who originally were in possession of the secret, have reaped great benefit from the sale of this water.

61. Sweet Honey-Water

Take of good French Brandy, a gallon; of the best Virgin Honey and Coriander-seeds, each a pound; Cloves, an ounce and half; Nutmegs, an ounce; Gum Benjamin and Storax, of each an ounce; Vanilloes No. 4; the Yellow Rind of three large Lemons: bruise the Spices and Benjamin, cut the Vanilloes into small pieces, put all into a cucurbit, and pour the Brandy on them. After they have digested forty-eight hours, distil off the Spirit in a retort with a gentle heat.

To a gallon of this water, add of Damask Rose-water and Orange Flower-water, of each a pint and a half; Musk and Ambergrise, of each five grains; first grind the Musk and Ambergrise with some of the water, and afterwards put all into a large matrass, shake them well together, and let them circulate three days and nights in a gentle heat. Then, letting the water cool, filtre and keep it for use, in a bottle well stopped.

It is an antiparalytic, smooths the skin, and gives one of the most agreeable scents imaginable. Forty or sixty drops put into a pint of clear water, are sufficient to wash the hands and face.

62. Sweet-scented Water

Take Orange Flower-water and Rose-water, of each an equal quantity; put them into a large wide-mouthed glass, and strew upon the surface gently as much Jasmine Flowers as will cover it; then tie the mouth of the glass so carefully that the Flowers be not shook down to the bottom. Repeat the process, letting each quantity of the Flowers remain five or six days, until the water is strongly scented with them. Then dissolve Ambergrise and Musk, of each a scruple, in a few ounces of the water, which filtre and put to the rest.

This water may also be made by putting the whole into a retort with a sufficient quantity of Jasmine Flowers, and drawing it off in a vapour bath into a receiver well luted.

This is an excellent perfume, and taken inwardly, is of service in some nervous cases and languors.

63. German sweet-scented Water

Begin with infusing for eight days in two quarts of Vinegar, two handfuls of Lavender Flowers, as many Provence Roses picked from the stalks, Wild Roses, and Elder Flowers. While they stand in infusion prepare a simple odoriferous water as follows: Put into a glass body the Yellow Rind of three Lemons, sweet Marjoram, Lilies of the Valley and Lavender Flowers, of each two handfuls; pour on them a pint of double distilled Rose-water, and a quart of Spring-water. Lute on a bolt-head, place the alembic in a sand heat, fix on a receiver, and leave matters in this state two days, then light a fire under it and distil quick. When you have drawn off a quart, stop your distillation, and keep this simple odoriferous water for the following use.

Take wild Thyme, sweet Marjoram, sweet Basil, and Thyme, of each a handful; Florentine Orrice and Cinnamon, of each half an ounce; Cloves, Mace, purified Storax, and Benjamin, of each three drachms; Labdanum, two drachms; Aspalathum, half an ounce; Socotrine Aloes, half a drachm; put all these ingredients, thoroughly bruised, into a stone jar, and add to them the Vinegar infusion, the distilled odoriferous water, and a quart of Frontiniac, Mountain, or Cowslip Wine. Stir them well together, and leave the whole to digest for fifteen days, at the expiration of which time, empty the infusion into a glass body, large enough to contain a sixth part more liquor; lute on the head, place it in a sand heat, and begin your distillation with a very gentle fire, increasing it gradually. It sometimes happens that the phlegm of the Vinegar comes over the helm first; when that is the case, set it aside as useless. As soon as the Spirit begins to rise, which you will directly perceive by its aromatic flavour, fix a receiver on the beak of the alembic, and distil off about three pints. Keep this by itself as the most spirituous part of your preparation; and continue to draw off the remainder as long as it runs clear.

The German sweet-scented Water is penetrating and incisive, admirably revives the vital spirits, removes headaches, comforts the heart, is excellent against unwholesome air, and of course a preservative from contagion.

64. Imperial Water

Take five quarts of Brandy, in which dissolve an ounce of Frankincense, Mastic, Benjamin, and Gum Arabic; add half an ounce of Cloves and Nutmegs; an ounce and a half of Pine-nut Kernels, and sweet Almonds; with three grains of Musk. Bruise these ingredients in a marble mortar, distil in a vapour bath, and keep the water that is drawn off in a glass bottle, close stopped.

This water takes away wrinkles, and renders the skin extremely delicate; it also whitens the Teeth, and abates the tooth-ache, sweetens the breath, and strengthens the gums. Foreign ladies prize it highly.

65. Odoriferous Water

Take sweet Basil, Mint, sweet Marjoram, Florentine Orrice-root, Hyssop, Balm, Savory, Lavender, and Rosemary, of each a handful; Cloves, Cinnamon, and Nutmegs, of each half an ounce; three or four Lemons, cut in thick slices; infuse them three days in a good quantity of Rose-water; distil in a water bath with a gentle fire, and add to the distilled water a scruple of Musk.

66. Or,

Take sweet Marjoram, Thyme, Lavender, Rosemary, Pennyroyal-buds, red Roses, Violet-flowers, Clove-july-flowers, Savory, and Orange-peels, of each equal parts; infuse in White Wine till they entirely sink to the bottom of the Wine; then distil in an alembic, two or three times. Keep the Water in bottles well corked; and preserve the residuum as a perfume.

67. The Ladies Water

Take two handfuls and a half of Red Roses; Rosemary Flowers, Lavender, and Spikenard, of each a handful; Thyme, Chamomile Flowers, Sage of Virtue, Pennyroyal, and Marjoram, of each a handful; infuse in White Wine twenty-four hours; then put the whole into an alembic; sprinkle it with good White Wine, and throw on it a powder, composed of an ounce and a half of choice Cloves, Gum Benjamin, and Storax, strained, each two drachms. The distilled Water is to be kept in a bottle well stopped.

68. A beautifying Wash

Take equal parts of White Tansey, and Rhubarb Water, and to every half pint add two drachms of Sal Ammoniac.

This fluid is applied with a feather or hair pencil, three or four times a day, to pimples or tetters, on any part of the body.

69. A Cosmetic Water

Wash the face with the tears that issue from the Vine, during the months of May and June.

70. An Excellent Cosmetic

Pimpernel Water is so sovereign a beautifier of the complexion, that it ought always to have a place on a Lady's toilet.

71. Venice Water, highly esteemed

In the month of May, take two quarts of Cow's Milk, which pour into a bottle with eight Lemons and four Oranges, sliced; add an ounce of Sugar Candy, and half an ounce of Borax; distil in a water bath or sand heat.

This water is counterfeited at Bagdat in Persia, in the following manner. Take twelve Lemons peeled and sliced, twelve new-laid Eggs, six Sheeps Trotters, four ounces of Sugar Candy, a large slice of Melon, and another of Pompion, with two drachms of Borax; distil in a large glass alembic with a leaden head.

72. A Balsamic Water

Take a pound of Venice Turpentine; Oil of Bays, Galbanum, Gum Arabic, Ivy Gum, Frankincense, Myrrh, Hepatic Aloes, Aloes-wood, Galangals, Cloves, Comfrey, Cinnamon, Nutmegs, Zedoary, Ginger, and White Dittany, each three ounces; Borax, four ounces; Musk, a drachm; Ambergrise, a scruple; after bruising such of the ingredients as are capable of being powdered, infuse the whole in six quarts of Brandy; and distil it. The Balsamic Water drawn off will be good to strengthen the limbs, and cause that beauty and vigour which so much delights the eye.

73. Angelic Water, of a most agreeable Scent

Put into a large alembic the following ingredients, Benjamin, four ounces; Storax, two ounces; Yellow Sanders, an ounce; Cloves, two drachms; two or three bits of Florentine Orrice, half the Peel of a Lemon, two Nutmegs, half an ounce of Cinnamon, two quarts of Rose-water, a pint of Orange Flower-water, and a pint of Magisterial Balm-water. Put the whole into an alembic well luted; distil in a water bath; and what you draw off will prove an exquisite Angelic Water.

74. Nosegay or Toilet Water

Take Honey-water, an ounce; Eau sans Pareille, two ounces; Jasmine-water, not quite five drachms; Clove-water, and Violet-water, of each half an ounce; Cyprus-water, sweet Calamus-water, and Lavender-water, of each two drachms; Spirit of Neroli or Oranges ten drops; mix all these Waters together, and keep the mixture in a vial close corked.

This water has a delightful scent; but its use is only for the toilet.

75. Spirit of Guaiacum

Spirit of Guaiacum is prepared by infusing two ounces of Guaiacum Shavings in a quart of Brandy, ten or twelve days, shaking the vessel now and then. The Tincture is then filtred through paper, and used to gargle the mouth in the same manner as the Vulnerary-water.

76. The Divine Cordial

To make this, take, in the beginning of the month of March, two ounces of the Roots of the true Acorus, Betony, Florentine Orrice-roots, Cyprus, Gentian, and sweet Scabious; an ounce of Cinnamon, and as much Yellow Sanders; two drachms of Mace; an ounce of Juniper-berries; and six drachms of Coriander-seeds; beat these ingredients, in a mortar, to a coarse powder, and add thereto the outer Peel of six fine China Oranges; put them all into a large vessel, with a gallon and a half of Spirit of Wine; shake them well, and then cork the vessel tight till the season for Flowers. When these are in full vigour, add half a handful of the following: viz. Violets, Hyacinths, Jonquils, Wall Flowers, Red, Damask, White, and Musk Roses, Clove-july-flowers, Orange Flowers, Jasmine, Tuberoses, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme, Lavender, sweet Marjoram, Broom, Elder, St. John's-wort, Marigold, Chamomile, Lilies of the Valley, Narcissuses, Honeysuckle, Borage, and Bugloss.

Three seasons are required to procure all these Flowers in perfection; Spring, Summer, and Autumn. Every time you gather any of these Flowers, add them immediately to the infusion, mixing them thoroughly with the other ingredients; and three days after you have put in the last Flowers, put the whole into a glass cucurbit, lute on the head carefully, place it in a water bath over a slow fire, keep the receiver cool, and draw off five quarts of Spirit, which will prove of a rare quality. As a medicine, it is far more efficacious than Balm-water; and for its fine scent, one of the best perfumes.

77. Compound Cyprus Water

Take a gallon of Spirit of Jasmine, infuse in it half an ounce of Florentine Orrice grossly powdered, a quarter of an ounce of bruised Angelica-seeds, three scraped Nutmegs, three ounces of White Musk-roses bruised, a drachm of Spirit of Orange, and fifteen drops of Essence of Ambergrise. If it is not the season for Roses, when you make this Water, put instead of them a pint of Rose-water scented with Musk, and if that cannot be procured, use common Rose-water; draw off the Spirit in a water bath, and in a stream like a thread; taking care to place the receiver in cold water, that the Spirit may cool as fast as possible and thereby the better preserve its perfume.

78. Imperial Water

Put into a gallon of Brandy, a quarter of a pound of picked Violets, an ounce of Florentine Orrice, a quarter of a pound of Double Jonquils, two ounces of picked Orange Flowers, two Ounces of White Musk-roses, three ounces of Tuberoses, a drachm of Mace, half a drachm of Cloves, an ounce of Quintessence of Bergamot, and an ounce of Quintessence of Oranges. All the Flowers must be gathered in their proper season. Observe to put into the Brandy at the same time with the Violets, the Orrice, Mace, and Cloves, in gross powder, then add the different Flowers as they come in season, remembering not to add the quintessences, till after the Tuberoses, which are the last Flower. Every time you put in a fresh Flower, shake the vessel, and cork it very tight. Eight days after the Tuberoses have been infused, put the whole into a glass body, lute on the head carefully, and place under the receiver an earthen vessel filled with cold water, that the Spirit may cool as fast as it comes over, by which means its scent will be the better preserved. You may draw off two quarts of a rectified Spirit, that will give perfect satisfaction to the most delicate judge.