The Toilet of Flora

164. Scented Tables or Pastils

Beat into a fine powder, and sift through a hair sieve, a pound of the Marc or Residuum left in the still, after making Angelic Water; then put it into a mortar, with a handful of fresh-gathered Rose Leaves, and a small porringer full of Gum Tragacanth softened with Rose Water. Beat the whole into a Paste; roll it out on a dresser with a rolling-pin, and cut it into Lozenges with a knife.

To form scented Pastils, roll up bits of this Paste in the shape of a cone, that they may stand upright, and set them by to dry. These kind of Pastils are lighted in the same manner as a candle. They consume entirely away; and, while burning, exhale a fragrant smoke.

165. A pleasant Perfume

Take a drachm of Musk, four Cloves, four ounces of Lavender-seed, a drachm and a half of Civet, and half a drachm of Ambergrise; heat your pestle and mortar, and rub the Musk, Cloves, and Lavender-seeds together, with a lump of Loaf Sugar and a wine-glass full of Angelic or Rose-water. Take a handful of powder, and incorporate it well with this mixture, then sift it through a sieve; add two or three pounds more powder, or even a larger quantity, till the perfume is brought to a proper degree of strength. As to the Civet, put it on the end of a hot pestle, and rub it well with a handful of powder; after which add, by little and little, six pounds of powder; then sift the whole through a hair sieve to incorporate it with the other perfumed powder. The Ambergrise must be well rubbed in the mortar; and by degrees two pounds of powder, either white or grey, must be added to it, till the Ambergrise is thoroughly incorporated with the powder; then sift through a hair sieve, and mix all the three powders together. This perfume is to be kept in a Leather Bag, the seams of which are well sewed with waxed thread.

166. Common perfumed Powder

Take Florentine Orrice, a pound, dried Rose Leaves, a pound; Gum Benjamin, two ounces; Storax, an ounce; Yellow Sanders, an ounce and a half; Cloves, two drachms; and a little Lemon Peel; reduce the whole to a fine powder, and mix with it twenty pounds of Starch, or rather of grey or white powder; incorporate them well, and sift them through a lawn sieve.

167. A Cassolette

Incorporate the Powders of Florentine Orrice, Storax, Benjamin and other aromatics, with Orange-flower Water; and put this Paste into a little Silver or Copper Box lined with Tin. When you have a mind to use this perfume, set the Box on a gentle fire, or on hot ashes, and it will exhale a most delightful odour.

168. To perfume a House, and purify the Air

Take a root of Angelica, dry it in an oven, or before the fire, then bruise it well and infuse it four or five days in White Wine Vinegar. When you use it, lay it upon a brick made red hot, and repeat the operation several times.

169. A Perfume to scent Powder

Take a drachm of Musk, four ounces of Lavender Seeds, a drachm and a half of Civet, and half a drachm of Ambergrise. Beat the whole together into powder, and sift through a hair sieve. Keep this perfume in a box that shuts very close, to scent powder with, according to your fancy.

PASTILS

170. An excellent Composition to perfume a Room agreeably

Take four ounces of Gum Benjamin, two ounces of Storax, and a quarter of an ounce of Aloes-wood. When these ingredients have been well bruised, simmer them about half an hour over a slow fire, in a glazed earthen pipkin, with as much Rose-water as will cover them, and then strain off the liquor for use. Dry the Residuum or Marc, and pulverize it in a warm mortar with a pound of Charcoal. Dissolve some Gum Tragacanth in the reserved Liquor, then add to your powder a drachm of fine Oriental Musk dissolved in a little Rose-water, and form the whole into a Paste, of which make pastils about the length and thickness of the little finger, narrower at top than at bottom, that they may stand firm and upright. When they are thoroughly dry, light them at the narrow end, and let them burn till they are wholly consumed. While burning they afford an exquisite perfume. To render the perfume still higher, add six grains of Ambergrise.

171. Or,

Pulverize together two ounces of Gum Benjamin, half an ounce of Storax, a drachm of Aloes-wood, twenty grains of fine Civet, a little Sea Coal, and Loaf Sugar; boil the whole in a sufficient quantity of Rose-water, to the consistence of a stiff paste. If you are desirous of having your pastils higher flavoured, add twelve grains of Ambergrise just before you take the composition off the fire; and the ingredients being thoroughly mixed, form them into pastils.

172. Fragrant Pastils made use of by way of Fumigation

Take the purest Labdanum and Gum Benjamin, of each two ounces; Storax and dry Balsam of Peru, of each three quarters of an ounce; choice Myrrh, half a drachm; Gum Tacamahac, a quarter of an ounce; Olibanum, a drachm; Liquid Balsam of Peru, half an ounce; Ambergrise, a quarter of an ounce; Musk and Civet, of each a scruple; Essential Oil of Rhodium, thirty drops; Essential Oils of Orange-flowers, Lemons, and Bergamot, of each four drops; Gum Lacque, in fine powder, two ounces and a half; Cascarilla, Aloes-wood, Rose-wood, St. Lucia-wood, Yellow Sanders, and Cinnamon, all powdered, of each a drachm. With the assistance of a vapour-bath reduce them to a mass, which form into pastils in the usual way.

173. Pastils of Roses

Pulverize a pound of the Marc or Residuum left in the still after making Angelica Water; likewise a large handful of Roses; and with a sufficient quantity of Gum Tragacanth dissolved in Rose-water, beat them into a stiff paste, which is to be rolled out upon a marble with a rolling-pin, and cut into Lozenges, or formed into pastils. If you have a mind to ornament them, cover them with Leaf Gold or Silver.

PASTES

174. Paste of dried Almonds to cleanse the Skin

Beat any quantity you please, of Sweet and Bitter Almonds in a marble mortar, and while beating, pour on them a little Vinegar in a small stream to prevent their turning oily: then add two drachms of Storax in fine powder, two ounces of White Honey, and two Yolks of Eggs boiled hard; mix the whole into a paste.

175. Soft Almond Paste

Blanch in warm water any quantity of Bitter Almonds, leave them to grow dry, and then beat them in a marble mortar with a little Milk, to form them into a paste. To prevent their turning oily, afterwards add the Crumb of a light White Loaf soaked in Milk. Beat it with the Almonds till they are incorporated into an uniform mass; then put the whole into a kettle, with some fresh Milk, and let them simmer over a gentle fire; keeping the composition stirring, till it is boiled into a soft paste.

176. Paste for the Hands

Take Sweet Almonds, half a pound; White Wine Vinegar, Brandy, and Spring Water, of each two quarts; two ounces of Crumb of Bread, and the Yolks of two Eggs. Blanch and beat the Almonds, moistening them with the Vinegar; add the Crumb of Bread soaked in the Brandy, and mix it with the Almonds and Yolks of Egg, by repeated Trituration. Then pour in the Water, and simmer the whole over a slow fire, keeping the composition continually stirring, till it has acquired a proper consistence.

177. Or,

Take Bitter and Sweet Almonds blanched, of each two ounces; Pine-nuts, and the four Cold Seeds, of each an ounce; beat the whole together in a marble mortar with the Yolks of two Eggs, and the Crumb of a small Wheaten Loaf. Moisten the mass with White Wine Vinegar, put it into a deep pan, simmer it over a slow fire, and when the paste ceases sticking to the pan, it is sufficiently boiled.

178. Or,

Take blanched Almonds, a pound; Pine-nuts, four ounces; beat them together into a paste with the addition of two ounces of Loaf Sugar, an ounce of the finest Honey, the same quantity of Bean Flower, and half a gill of Brandy. This paste may be scented with the Essences of Cloves, Lemons, Bergamot, Jasmine, Rhodium, Orange Flowers, &c. or with a few grains of Musk, Civet, or a few drops of Essence of Ambergrise, for persons who have no aversion to those perfumes.

179. Or,

Beat half a pound of blanched Almonds, with half an ounce of Yellow Sanders, half an ounce of Florentine Orrice, and an ounce of Calamus Aromaticus, in fine powder; pour on them gradually an ounce of Rose-water, and then add half a Pippin sliced small, a quarter of a pound of stale Crumb of White Bread sifted fine, and knead the whole into a paste with two ounces of Gum Tragacanth dissolved in Rose-water.

180. Or,

Beat some peeled apples (having first taken out the Cores) in a marble mortar, with Rose-water, and White Wine, of each equal parts. Add some Crumb of Bread, blanched Almonds, and a little White Soap; and simmer the whole over a slow fire till it acquires a proper consistence.

181. Or,

Infuse some blanched Almonds, two or three hours, in Goat's or Cow's Milk, and beat them into a paste. Strain the infusion through a linen cloth with a strong pressure, and add to the strained Liquor half a pound of the Crumb of White Bread, a quarter of a pound of Borax, and as much Burnt Roch Alum. Simmer the whole together, and when almost boiled enough, add an ounce of Spermaceti. Stir the composition well with a spatula to prevent it from burning to the bottom of the pan; and let it simmer but very gently.

182. Or,

Dry, before the fire, half a pound of Bitter Almonds blanched, then beat them in a marble mortar as fine as possible, and add a little boiled Milk to prevent the Almonds from turning oily. Beat in the same manner the Crumb of two French Bricks, with four Yolks of Eggs boiled hard, and with the addition of some fresh Milk knead them into a paste, which incorporate with that of the Almonds.

POMATUMS

183. Cold Cream, or Pomatum for the Complexion

Take White Wax and Spermaceti, of each a drachm; Oil of Sweet Almonds, two ounces; Spring Water, an ounce and a half; melt the Wax and Spermaceti together in the Oil of Almonds, in a glazed earthen pipkin, over hot ashes, or in a vapour-bath; pour the solution into a marble mortar, and stir it about with a wooden pestle, till it grow cold, and seem quite smooth; then mix the Water gradually, and keep stirring, till the whole is incorporated. This pomatum becomes extremely white and light by the agitation, and very much resembles cream, from its similitude to which it has obtained its name.

This pomatum is an excellent cosmetic, and renders the skin supple and smooth. Some add a little Balm of Gilead to heighten its virtue; and it is sometimes scented, by using Rose-water or Orange-flower Water in the preparation, instead of Spring-water, or with a few drops of any Essence, as fancy directs. It is also very good to prevent marks in the face from the Small-pox; in which last case, a little powder of Saffron, or some desiccative powder, such as Flowers of Zinc or French Chalk, is usually added. Keep it for use in a large gallypot tied over with a bladder.

184. Cucumber Pomatum

Take Hog's Lard, a pound; ripe Melons, and Cucumbers, of each three pounds, Verjuice, half a pint; two pippins pared, and a pint of Cow's Milk. Slice the Melons, Cucumbers, and Apples, having first pared them; bruise them in the Verjuice, and, together with the Milk and Hog's Lard, put them into an alembic. Let them infuse in a vapour-bath eight or ten hours; then squeeze out the Liquor through a straining cloth while the mixture is hot, and expose it to the cold air, or set it in a cool place to congeal. Afterwards pour off the watery part that subsides, and wash it in several Waters, till the last remains perfectly clear. Melt the pomatum again in a vapour-bath several times, to separate from it all its humid particles, and every extraneous substance; otherwise it will soon grow rancid. Keep it for use in a gallypot tied over with a bladder.

185. Or,

A more simple Cucumber Pomatum may be made by simmering together Hog's Lard and pared Cucumbers cut in thin slices. With respect to the rest of the process, follow the method laid down for preparing Lip-salve; and keep this pomatum in the same manner as the former.

Both these pomatums are good Cosmetics; they soften the skin, and preserve it cool and smooth.