Travels Through North America, During the Years 1825 and 1826. v. 1-2

Rapp’s society, after leaving New Harmony, chose a new situation which they named Economy. This is eighteen miles from Pittsburgh. I intended to visit it on the following day, but on this evening, (May 17,) I was surprised by a visit from Mr. Frederick Rapp, adopted son of the founder of the Society, who gave me an invitation to pay their establishment a visit. We therefore went willingly at ten o’clock, next morning, accompanied by Messrs. Bonnhorst and Volz, to Economy, whither Mr. F. Rapp preceded us.

We reached the Alleghany bridge, which is built of wood, roofed, and supported upon five stone piers. The foot-walks are separated from the wagon-road, and are open on one side, so that foot passengers are not incommoded by the dust from the inside of the bridge. On the opposite side is a little village called Alleghany town, laid out upon a great scale, but on account of the proximity of Pittsburgh, it will with difficulty attain any importance: in former years, the Indians, which then thickly hovered about the right bank of the Alleghany and Ohio, were a powerful obstacle to the increase of this place. On the heights stand elegant country houses. Farther off ran the road, which was bad enough, near to the right bank of the Ohio, through a wonderfully lovely landscape. The valley strongly reminds one of the Maas Valley between Namur and Lüttich; it is beautifully cultivated; the farms lie close together; the green hills, and groups of sugar maples and acacias have a most beautiful appearance. The latter were beginning to blossom, and filled the air with perfume.[66 - In the year 1826, I enjoyed three springs; the first about the end of February at New Orleans, the second at New Harmony and Louisville, and the third in the state of Ohio, and west Pennsylvania.] In the Ohio we saw Neville’s island, which is about seven miles long and one broad, and is well cultivated. Over two little creeks we passed upon well kept, roofed bridges, and reached Economy at two, P. M. This place lies on a bluff fifty feet above the low water mark of the Ohio. Behind the village are some hills containing springs, whence the water is conveyed in pipes to Economy.

In approaching Economy we passed two burning brick-kilns; then we came to a newly-built house, at which stood three men with horns, who began to blow on our arrival. At the inn, a fine large frame house, we were received by Mr. Rapp, the principal, at the head of the community. He is a gray-headed, and venerable old man; most of the members emigrated twenty-one years ago from Wurtemberg, along with him. After our first greeting, we were conducted into a simple but tastefully arranged apartment. We conversed together for a time, and then all set down to dinner. The table was furnished with German dishes, over which reigned a jocund heartiness.

Having been prejudiced against Mr. Rapp and his society, by what I had read, and more recently heard at New Harmony, I was much rejoiced at having visited this place, to be better informed by personal observation. Never have I witnessed a more truly patriarchal constitution than here, and men’s actions speak best for their regulations, and for the concord prevailing among them.

The elder Rapp is a large man of seventy years old, whose powers age seems not to have diminished; his hair is gray, but his blue eyes overshadowed by strong brows, are full of life and fire; his voice is strong, and his enunciation full, and he knows how to give a peculiar effect to his words by appropriate gesticulation. He speaks a Swabian dialect, intermixed with a little English, to which the ear of a German in the United States must become accustomed; generally, what he says is clearly and plainly delivered.

Rapp’s system is nearly the same as Owen’s. Community of goods, and all members of the society to work together for the common interest, by which the welfare of each individual is secured. Rapp does not hold his society together by these hopes alone, but also by the tie of religion, which is entirely wanting in Owen’s community; and results declare that Rapp’s system is the better. No great results can be expected from Owen’s plan, and a sight of it is very little in its favour. What is most striking and wonderful of all, is that so plain a man as Rapp can so successfully bring and keep together a society of nearly seven hundred persons, who in a manner honour him as a prophet. Equally so for example in his power of government, which can suspend the intercourse of the sexes. He found that the society was becoming too numerous, wherefore the members agreed to live with their wives as sisters. All nearer intercourse is forbidden, as well as marriage; both are discouraged. However, some marriages constantly occur, and children are born every year, for whom there is provided a school and teacher. The members of the community manifest the very highest degree of veneration for the elder Rapp, whom they address and treat as a father.

Mr. Frederick Rapp is a large good-looking personage, of forty years of age. He possesses profound mercantile knowledge, and is the temporal, as his father is the spiritual chief of the community. All business passes through his hands; he represents the society, which, notwithstanding the change in the name of their residence, is called the Harmony Society, in all their dealings with the world. They found that the farming and cattle-raising, to which the society exclusively attended in both their former places of residence, were not sufficiently productive for their industry, they therefore have established factories, which in this country are very profitable, and have at present cotton and woollen manufactories, a brewery, distillery, and flour-mill. They generally drink, during their good German dinners, uncommonly good wine, which was made on the Wabash, and brought thence by them: they left the worst, as I have remarked, at New Harmony.

After dinner we visited the village, which is very regularly arranged, with broad rectangular streets, two parallel to the Ohio, and four crossing them. On the 22d of May it will be but two years since the forest was first felled upon which Economy is built; the roots still remaining in the streets are evidences of the short time that has elapsed. It is astonishing what united and regulated human efforts has accomplished in so short a time!

Many families still live in log-houses, but some streets consist almost entirely of neat, well-built frame houses, at proper distances from each other, each house has a garden attached to it. The four-story cotton and woollen factories are of brick; Mr. Rapp’s dwelling-house, not yet completed, and a newly-begun warehouse, are also to be of brick. The log-houses stand in the rear of the line which the new houses are to occupy in the street, so that when in time they wish to erect brick buildings, it may be done without incommoding the tenants of the log dwellings. Mr. Rapp’s residence speaks rather freely against the equality he preaches to his people, yet without exciting jealousy or becoming a stumbling block. It consists of a principal building two stories high, with two lower wings standing in the same line, and is adorned with beautiful Philadelphia paper. At the back of the house is a piazza and balcony. There is also a garden containing several acres with flowers and vegetables, as well as a vineyard, situated on a terrace-shaped half circle on the hill, ending in a bower. I especially admired the beautiful tulips of this garden, in the midst of which is a round basin with a noble spring. Mr. Rapp intends to build a temple here, in which he will place a statue of Harmony: the statue is now ready. It is the work of a carver in Philadelphia, and is a colossal wooden figure, like the figure-head of a ship. In the garden are several cottages, one of them is roofed with sods, and is used for a pastry house. On the top is a sort of seat, where hereafter musicians are to sit; within there is a temporary frame hall. Near the garden is the green-house; this house, as well as the garden, is under the inspection of a very pretty girl, Miss Hildegard, a relative of Mr. Rapp, and possessed of much botanical knowledge. The women of this community have all preserved their Swabian costume, even to their straw hats, and they look very becomingly.

In the cotton and woollen factories, all the machinery is set in motion by a high-pressure engine of seventy horse-power, made in Pittsburgh. The machine pumps the water from a well fifty feet deep, sunk for the purpose. The community possesses some fine sheep, among which are many Merino and Saxon: they purchase wool, however, from the surrounding farmers, who have already begun to raise it to bring to Economy. As soon as the wool is washed, it is picked by the old women of the community, who work in the fourth story, whence it is reconveyed by a sort of tunnel into the lower story. The wool is then separated according to its quality into four classes, dyed together in the dye-house near the manufactory, returned to the mill, where it is combed, coarsely spun, and finally wrought into fine yarn by a machine similar to the spinning jenny. As soon as spun, it is placed in the loom and wrought into cloth, this is placed in a steam fulling-mill, so arranged that the steam from the engine is made to answer the purpose of soap and fuller’s earth, which is a great saving. The cloth is shorn by means of a cylinder, upon which a strong piece of steel turns. There is a model of this shearing-machine in the patent-office at Washington. The woollen goods most in demand in this country, are blue middling, grey mixed, (principally used for pantaloons,) and red and white flannel cloths. The red flannels are in great demand.

The cotton factory is employed in spinning and weaving. The printing of cottons has not yet been attempted, as the stamps cannot be procured without great expense and difficulty, and the fashions of printed calico are very changeable. The coloured cottons wove here are blue and white, mixed; a stuff of this colour much in demand in Tennessee, is called cassinet, the chain of which is of cotton, and the filling of wool. The spinning machines are of the common kind, each of which have one hundred and fifty spools at work. The first machine, which does the coarse spinning, has been much improved, so as to save a great deal of manual labour. There are also some power-looms here, though not many, neither have they at present but one dressing machine. Many of the machines are made in Pittsburgh; most of them, however, at Economy. As this establishment has been so recently founded, it is natural enough that but few machines should be prepared or in operation. The factories and workshops are warmed during winter by means of pipes connected with the steam-engine. All the workmen, and especially the females, have very healthy complexions, and moved me deeply by the warm-hearted friendliness with which they saluted the elder Rapp. I was also much gratified to see vessels containing fresh, sweet-smelling flowers standing on all the machines. The neatness which universally reigns here, is in every respect worthy of praise.

After visiting these interesting factories, we went to Mr. Rapp’s temporary dwelling, a good frame house, in order to take tea. I saw here his unmarried, rather faded daughter, and his blooming grandchild, Gertrude, the daughter of his only son, concerning whose death such strange reports are circulated. The table was decorated with beautiful silver plate, and Rapp appeared to be rejoiced, to indicate by its possession, his well-merited prosperity. He commenced his business, as he informed me, with very slender means; when he began at New Harmony, he had to contend with the bitterest want, and more than once, had not bread for his community. He sent Frederick Rapp to Pittsburgh, to procure store goods, and absolutely necessary provisions, upon credit. The latter found himself generally repulsed, and remained the whole night awake in Pittsburgh, lamenting the cruelty of mankind. The elder Rapp, who waited in vain for his return, went to his house, also lamenting his situation, but not in the least doubtful of Providence, who watched over him and his; nor was his confidence misplaced. The heart of one Pittsburgh merchant was moved; he could not rest during the night for having so scornfully dismissed Mr. Rapp. He sought him early in the morning, took him to his store, and offered him whatever was necessary upon credit. In this manner was the society rescued. This worthy merchant some time after suffered in his business, and on this unfortunate occasion, the grateful Harmony society assisted him in a very generous manner.

We spent the evening likewise with Mr. Rapp. He collected the musical members of the society, and entertained us with music. Miss Gertrude played upon the piano, and three of the girls sang; the other instruments were violins, a violoncello and two flutes. The music was really not so good as we had heard in the preceding autumn at Bethlehem; but gave us much entertainment. Mr. Bonnhorst also delighted us with his fine performance on the violin. The music was principally directed by a German physician, named Müller, who belongs to the community, and also has charge of the school.

The next morning we went with both the Messrs. Rapp through the village. We visited the distillery, in which good whiskey is made, which is in much demand in the neighbouring places. None is made use of in the village itself, as the members of the society have mutually agreed to abstain from the use of distilled liquors. This distillery feeds many swine and horned cattle, which produce the society a handsome profit. The beer brewery from lack of barley, made beer of wheat; this brewery was not in operation. The flour-mill, not yet completed, is to be worked by a steam-engine, and is to be arranged like the Baltimore steam-mill. In a short time four sets of stones will be in operation, and an oil mill is also to be connected therewith. As careful managers, the directors of the society, in the upper part of the mill, which is five stories high, put away grain enough for a year, in order to be secured against scarcity, which is even in this happy country much to be dreaded. In the mill as well as in the factories, in each story there is a great iron cylinder, filled with water, which is thus at hand in case of fire. The society possesses a fire-engine of their own making, and have organized a fire company to work it.

We examined the workshops of the black and locksmiths, which are under the same shed, and then the joiner’s and cooper’s; we especially observed the marks of actual and filial respect which is borne towards the elder Rapp by his young people. The warehouse was also shown to us, where the articles made here for sale or use are preserved; and I admired the excellence of all. The articles for the use of the society are kept by themselves, as the members have no private possessions, and every thing is in common, so must they in relation to all their personal wants be supplied from the common stock. The clothing and food they make use of, is of the best quality. Of the latter, flour, salt meat, and all long keeping articles are served out monthly; fresh meat on the contrary, and whatever spoils readily, is distributed whenever it is killed, according to the size of the family, &c. As every house has a garden, each family raises its own vegetables, and some poultry, and each family has also its own bakeoven. For such things as are not raised in Economy, there is a store provided, from which members with the knowledge of the directors, may purchase what is necessary, and the people of the vicinity may also do the same. The warehouse and store are for the present in wooden buildings, but in a short time the requisite brick buildings will be erected.

Under Mr. Rapp’s new house we found a fine roomy cellar, in which he gave us a very good glass of old Rhenish wine, and also some good wine made on the Wabash, of which he had twenty-one casks. I tasted a very dark and powerful wine, made from wild grapes, which grew on an island in the Wabash. For the first three years it is said that this wine cannot be drank on account of its sourness; this has been in casks for eight years and is so much improved, that it now is similar to old Hungarian wine.

As we passed along we saw a small deer park, in which the elder Rapp had amused himself in taming some bucks and does, which would eat out of his hand. We saw also here a noble young moose deer, which was as large as a stout ox. He is also very tame, but during the season is dangerous.

Mr. Rapp finally conducted us into the factory again, and said that the girls had especially requested this visit, that I might hear them sing. When their work is done they collect in one of the factory rooms, to the number of sixty or seventy, to sing spiritual and other songs. They have a peculiar hymn-book, containing many hymns from the Wurtemberg psalm-book, and others written by the elder Rapp. The latter are truly in prose, but have been arranged to old tunes by the girls.[67 - In this hymn-book are some pieces, which, if the perfect child-like innocence of these maidens be not recollected, might appear rather scandalous. For instance, there is a literal translation of the song of Solomon, among others.] The elder Rapp is very fond of psalmody, and the girls must devote themselves considerably thereto, since Gertrude is a proficient and receives musical instruction. A chair was placed for the old patriarch, who sat amidst the girls and they commenced a hymn in a very delightful manner. It was naturally symphonious and exceedingly well arranged. The girls sang four pieces, at first sacred, but afterwards by Mr. Rapp’s desire, of gay character. With real emotion did I witness this interesting scene.

We had an excellent dinner in Mr. Rapp’s house, and the musical members of the society took this opportunity to play their best in front of it. The band consisted of twelve musicians, and performed very well, among them were two who played bugles. Both the Rapp’s, and especially the elder, advised me strongly to settle in their neighbourhood, and purchase at ten miles hence, the Beaver Falls on Beaver creek, for twenty-five thousand dollars. There I might establish iron works, said they, and make a great deal of money; they and their society would assist me in every possible manner!

With peculiar feelings we took leave of the friendly and industrious Economy, at three o’clock. No payment was received at the tavern, and we set out through the same beautiful places by which we had come towards Pittsburgh. Mr. F. Rapp, who had business there, followed us, accompanied by Gertrude. During this ride I had another opportunity of admiring the beautiful rocks as we passed by, and particularly the caverns, probably made in them by water, which remind one of the little caves near Ems, on the Lahn.

We stopped at Alleghany town to examine the new and unfinished penitentiary, which is arranged according to the system of solitary confinement. The whole is surrounded by a high hexagonal wall. The principal building, which is of sandstone, is three stories high. This is to contain the residence of the superintendent, the offices and infirmary. On two of the other angles of the hexagon are high round towers, from which the interior of the house can be overlooked, where the guards are to be stationed. Behind the principal building in the court-yard, stands a smaller building, containing, besides many cells for the convicts, the kitchen and wash-house. In a circle which is interrupted by the above mentioned buildings, stands a one-story building, containing convict cells, which has one row of entrances near the inner circular yard, and the other towards the space enclosed by the hexagonal walls. Each cell is eight feet long by six broad. It contains a bench, and receives its light through an opening secured by an external iron grate; within this is a wooden door, which the prisoner can, at his pleasure, open or shut. Before each cell is a very small open space. The cells are floored, and provided with iron rings to which the prisoners may be secured if necessary. These unfortunates have neither light nor room enough to work; I was informed that each prisoner was to be allowed to enjoy the fresh air for fifteen minutes daily. In this way, this new system can scarcely have any other result than that of destroying the health of the convicts. The prison contains one hundred and ninety-six cells, and it is said, that next autumn the first victims are to be sacrificed to a mistaken philanthropy.[68 - [It is to be hoped that the able and luminous report of the commissioners appointed by the state, to make inquiries on the subject of penitentiary discipline, will be sufficient to correct the glaring errors of this new system; which like most of the new systems of the present day, is clearly proved thereby to be more specious than beneficial. The evidence accumulated by the commissioners is of a character to satisfy every candid mind, not chained to the support of a particular theory, that solitary confinement without labour, is unequal in operation, inadequate to the end proposed, and promises to be as destructive to human life as it is discordant to humane feelings.] – Trans.] The expense of maintaining these prisoners, who are not permitted to earn any thing, will necessarily be considerable.

On the 20th of May I went with Mr. F. Rapp, who still remained in Pittsburgh with Gertrude, to visit some manufacturing establishments. We crossed the Monongahela near its mouth, in a skiff, to a salt-work on the left bank. With the earth-borer invented in England, and improved in America, they found salt water at the depth of a hundred feet. As this water was thought to be too weak, a pipe was placed in the well, and bored in another place, until at the depth of a hundred feet a sufficiently strong brine was obtained. The salt water collected and rose to the top. It is now pumped out by a small steam-engine into a boiler, where it is boiled for four hours. It is then poured into a large vat, to the depth of eight inches. It stands in this vat four hours; a little alum is added to precipitate earthy impurities. Hence, by a cock situated above the level of the precipitated matters, the fluid is drawn off into various kettles, in which the now pure brine is again boiled for four hours. Now the white salt begins to form, and is skimmed off with large iron ladles. This is a very simple process, saves expense and room, and appears to me far better than our great salt-houses. In returning to the city, we saw many iron-works, of which there are eight in the city and vicinity. One of them is a nail factory; the nail-cutting machine acts from above, and the workmen holds the rod to be cut with a pair of tongs, and has to move it at every stroke; a hammer strikes the nail which falls through in such a manner as to form the head. We also saw a steam-engine manufactory of considerable extent. I had seen such an establishment previously in England, but as most of the machines are made here in parts, one cannot see a great deal. What most interested me was a double lever, by which the holes are punched in iron plates for the boilers, which are riveted together; a work which requires a great degree of exactness.

We next visited the Union Rolling-mill, near the city, on the bank of the Monongahela; here also is a nail factory. In the patent-office at Washington I saw upwards of seventy different models of nail-making machines. In this factory they were cut by horizontally moving shears, and at the same time the heads were formed by a hammer. A workman can make a hundred and fifty pounds of the smaller kind of nails daily. The preparation of the iron plates from which cut nails are made is very interesting. The crude pig iron is made white hot in the furnace; it is thence taken and rolled seven times through, between two iron cylinders, which are screwed closer together after every revolution. It is then passed seven times more between two narrow cylinders, which are also screwed closer after each time the plate passes. By this time the pig is reduced to a plate less than a quarter of an inch thick. This plate is again made red-hot, and finally passed between two cylinders, which are just as broad as the length of the nails to be cut. The piece in the upper cylinder passes directly in one cut to the lower, where the broad red-hot plate is cut into as many strips as are wanted. The very smallest of these are used for making wire. This machinery is set in motion by a large steam-engine, which works the bellows for the different furnaces and forges. The whole reminded me of the colossal iron-works I saw three years ago in South Wales.

Mr. Rapp accompanied me also to a sieve-maker, who weaves iron and brass wire, &c. which is done in a loom something like, but longer than a cloth-loom, in order to extend the wire properly. This one was twenty-five feet long. Our last visit was to an iron foundry, where, during our stay, different articles, grates and smoothing irons were cast. The smoothing irons were cast four in a mould, and while still red-hot were knocked asunder.

In the evening we went to the United States arsenal, two miles from the city, on the Philadelphia road; it is under the command of Major Churchill of the artillery, who received us at his house and introduced us to his wife, and four lovely children. This establishment contains a place of about four acres, lying between the road and the river Alleghany: the front consists of a large four-story main building, of sandstone, and two smaller buildings, one of which is the residence of the directors and the other of the sub-directors. On entering the court-yard, one sees that the side of the quadrangle facing the front contains three buildings not yet inhabited, which are barracks, and four others, workshops for the repair of arms, &c. opposite to these are two buildings in which are the smith and wheelwright shops. Except the three fronts, all the buildings are of bricks. The arms are kept in the main building, where there may be about twenty thousand stand; most of them are packed in chests: those not packed up, are very tastefully arranged in the hall, as trophies, &c. An arch of steel is formed over this hall by eighteen hundred muskets, which has a very beautiful appearance. Both the adjoining buildings are connected with the centre by roofed passages, under which are kept cannon of various calibers; most of these are English, and trophies of the late Commodore Perry’s victory on Lake Erie.

The 21st of May, was Sunday, and at twelve o’clock, I went with Mr. Bonnhorst to the Episcopal church. I have generally remarked that most of the fashionable people in the United States, either belong to the Episcopal church, or at least prefer to attend service there on Sunday. It is in Pittsburgh style to go to this church, while it would be unfashionable to visit the Methodist meeting, to which most of the lower class of people belong. It is a luxury to have a pew in the Episcopal church, and an especial politeness to invite a stranger to take a seat in it. I sat in Mr. Bonnhorst’s pew, which was rather full, and the air hot. In consequence of this, I was much incommoded by the frequent kneelings, as well as by the long psalms, which were sung standing. We had a very good discourse from a rather youthful preacher upon the subject of the Trinity, this being Trinity Sunday. The service lasted two hours.

Afterwards we paid a visit to Mr. Baldwin, a distinguished lawyer. This gentleman was formerly a member of congress, and had paper and iron factories in the vicinity; he however speculated largely, and in five weeks became a bankrupt. However, Mr. Baldwin lost nothing in public estimation; his practice as a lawyer produced him a very handsome income. He walked with us to the point where the Alleghany and Ohio unite, the former situation of Fort Duquesne, of which no trace now remains. The English did nothing for this fort, as in the year 1759, it was evacuated by the French, who could no longer obtain aid from Canada. The English then demolished the fort, and built one of earth, somewhat in rear of the old one, called Fort Pitt, whence the name of the city is derived. Fort Pitt, of which some remains of the walls and a barracks, now form part of an iron work, appears to have been a pentagon resting upon both rivers. During the American revolutionary war, this fort, which was no longer of importance, was abandoned by the English.

Next day Messrs. Craft and Volz, accompanied me to the cotton factory of Adams, Allen & Co. Mr. Craft is one of the principal proprietors of the firm, which does an extensive business, notwithstanding its recent establishment. The building is of brick, four stories high, and has two wings standing at right angles. This factory employs two hundred people daily. All the machinery is worked by a steam-machine of seventy-five horse-power. The machinery is similar to that in Economy, and the fabrics made at Economy are copied from this factory, &c. I saw nothing particularly new, except the machine which picks the cotton, and thus saves a great deal of filthy manual labour. During winter the factory is warmed by steam, throughout.

After examining this interesting factory, we went to the Juniata foundry, belonging to Mr. Schöneberger. It was a holy-day, as the men were training in the militia. The militia system is neither popular in this country nor profitable: the militia are trained for two days in the year, of course they can learn very little; the manufacturers lose the work of their people, and the workmen lose their pay. Neither is the Pittsburgh militia uniformed nor armed. The only operation we witnessed to-day at the Juniata works, was the grinding of the cast smoothing-irons, which was done first by stone, and then by wooden wheels, turned by a horse-mill.

We afterwards visited Mr. Volz, and saw a domestic warehouse containing all home manufactured articles; a really interesting museum of western industry to strangers. All the fabrics of the city and vicinity are brought here and offered for sale on commission. The articles are chiefly cast and wrought iron wares, all the utensils necessary for cotton or woollen factories, dye-houses &c., and various sorts of pure white, white and blue mixed, or plain blue cotton stuffs, but no printed calico. Some of the woollen cloths were very fine, and sold for seven dollars a yard; they were made at Steubenville. A good lasting dye-stuff for wool is still to be desired. I saw here some newly-invented locks; fine steelware is not very abundant, and the cutlery business is still in its infancy.

Finally, we visited Mr. Eichbaum, seventy-six years old; he is a glass-cutter, father of the owner of a wire factory, and postmaster of the city. By his skill and industry he has amassed a very handsome fortune. He was formerly in Carlsruhe, and boasted much of the court of Baden, and particularly of the wife of the Margrave.

CHAPTER XXV

Journey to Philadelphia, and second stay in that city

On the 23d of May, at eight o’clock, we commenced our journey to Philadelphia, in the mail stage. I left Pittsburgh with much regret; it pleased me in every respect, and would have pleased me still more had I continued there longer. Two roads lead from Pittsburgh to Harrisburg, the northern and the southern, and as it was of no moment which I took, I chose the former, as this was travelled by the stage, which leaves Ramsay’s hotel. We rode fifty-six miles to Armagh, and changed horses but twice, at M‘Miller’s and New Alexandria. These changes are too distant to allow the horses to travel with rapidity, and they have in Pennsylvania a custom of watering the horses every three or four miles. The country is hilly; the road had been a turnpike, is still so called, and is furnished with toll-gates, where toll must be paid, but is in a dreadfully bad state. The traveller is jolted in a barbarous manner, and still makes but little progress; the heat and the dust of this day were almost intolerable. We met many travellers and emigrants from the east, going with their families and goods to the western states, to settle there. The western states appear to the inhabitants of the eastern and northern states, in the same light in which Europeans, and particularly the Germans, view the United States in general. They expect to find here the land of promise, where milk and honey flows, and are sometimes much disappointed; though many, however, derive great advantage from the change.

We passed through East Liberty, Wilkinsburgh, Murrysville, New Alexandria and Blairsville – all unimportant. The streams were the Loyalhanna and the Connamaughe, with high and rocky shores. Wooden bridges are thrown over these rivers, but are so bad that one of our leaders broke through two planks of one of them, and was extricated with much difficulty. In the evening we passed over the first of the chains of mountains, which cross this country from south-west to north-east, and divide the regions of the Mississippi from the Atlantic states. It was Chesnut-ridge, which is tolerably high. Beyond this we saw a still more mountainous region; the valleys we met with were in a state of cultivation. It was eleven o’clock at night before we reached Armagh, as the accident on the bridge had detained us some time. At two o’clock, A. M. we continued our journey.

We rode fifty-eight miles to Alexandria, through Ebensburg, Munster, Blair’s Gap, Hollydaysburg, and Williamsburg. A few miles beyond Armagh, we came to another of the parallel ridges, called Laurel hill. I ascended the mountain on foot; as the sun was just rising, the fresh and green dress of the trees, together with the fragrance of the blooming azaleas, made a very pleasing impression on me. These honeysuckles were in bloom on almost all the mountains which we passed this day; rose-coloured kalmias began to bloom; the rhododendrons had not yet commenced. The fragrance of the white acacias was often combined with that of the azaleas. The other trees which we saw on this mountain, were chesnut, walnut, and hickory trees, sumac, some large-leaved linden trees, large pines, maples, and planes; the two latter kinds, however, were found in greater numbers in the valleys. Amid these mountains, with their lovely prospects, and this splendid vegetation, the mind feels itself exalted, and the heart strengthened. This enjoyment, however, of the traveller, is somewhat diminished by the bad roads, which appear to be neglected, although the payment of toll is not forgotten.

After we descended Laurel hill, we rode several miles through a tolerably thick woods, and reached Ebensburg, where we changed horses for the first time. This is a small and handsomely situated place, of about three hundred inhabitants, appearing, however, rather to decrease than increase. Two miles from this place, lies a small and quite deserted village, called Beula, founded by Welchmen, who, however, dispersed, as they found it of no advantage to continue there. After leaving Ebensburg, and behind this place, we ascended the Alleghany mountains, the highest in this region. The highest point which we passed is called Blair’s Gap, and considered to be more than three thousand feet above the level of the sea. The turnpike, though neglected, is still well laid out, and the ascent of the mountain is by no means steep. These regions have a remarkable aspect, they consist of ridges, which adjoin each other, and are of a prismatic form; the ridge above is perfectly level, and only thirty paces broad. When standing in front of such a ridge, one mountain appears as high and long as the other, which adjoins it.

After leaving the Alleghany mountains, of whose vegetation the same remark might be made as of Laurel hill, we reached a lovely valley, where we found by the side of a creek, a large stone mill, and a group of good houses, Blair’s Gap post-office. We here again changed horses. This creek is called Beaverdam creek, and empties into the Juniata, between Hollydaysburg and Frankstown. The region near this stream is said to produce good iron, and, as was before remarked, much use is made at Harper’s Ferry of Juniata iron. At Frankstown we reached the Juniata, and passed the rest of the day on its shores. The road often ran close to the river. Here, as well as on the passage over the mountains, railings were altogether wanting on the turnpike, and the road often passes by the edge of deep precipices. When large wagons meet, a false step of a horse at these dangerous places would have led to our unavoidable destruction. The road is often cut out of the rock; we remarked at several places in the mountains, declivities, which seem to be strewed with pieces of rocks of different sizes in a very remarkable manner.

Beyond Frankstown we came to a valley, which is formed on the right side by Lock mountain, and on the left by Brush mountain. Parallel with the latter, for a short distance runs a ridge, which commences in this valley, and is called Canoe mountains. It commences with a single hill, Canoe hill, which forms a right-angle, and in a manner closes the valley. Between this hill and Lock mountains, the Juniata forces its passage; the road leads over Canoe hill to a handsome valley, called Canoe valley, in the centre of which stands an inn with a farm, named Yellow Spring. This name is derived from a spring, arising in a rocky basin behind the farm, not far from which it empties into the Juniata. The spring is said to be chalybeate, and to give the stones over which it flows a yellow colour; however, neither taste nor sight could distinguish the chalybeate qualities. Some miles from Alexandria we passed a defile in the Tussey mountains, where the Juniata again forces its way. About nine o’clock, P. M., we arrived at Alexandria, where we passed the night. Here I heard in the evening, for the first time the croaking of the large frog, known under the name of bullfrog. It resembles the bleating of a calf, or rather the roaring of a young steer. Alexandria is a small place, and contains about three hundred inhabitants.

We intended to leave Alexandria at three o’clock, A. M., but the driver overslept himself, and we were obliged to wait till four o’clock. We rode sixty miles to Thomsonstown. The country was again tolerably hilly; we remained for the most part on the left side of the Juniata. A few miles below Alexandria we passed indeed by a ford to the right side, but after passing a mountain, belonging to Warrior’s ride, we returned seven miles below at Huntingdon, to the left side again, under a roofed bridge. We passed through Huntingdon; Lamberts, where we changed horses; and Waynesburg, Lewistown, Mifflin and Mexico. These places in general were unimportant, but well-built, with many substantial houses. Between Huntingdon and Waynesburg, the road led through Jack’s mountains, at the place where the Juniata forces its passage. The road is here generally cut through the rock, and runs without railings along a deep precipice by the river. After this, comes Juniata valley, which is formed on the left by the low Limestone-ridge, behind which, the high Jack’s mountains rise, and on the right by Blue-ridge, which rises immediately out of the Juniata. This valley reminded me of the regions on the river Lahn in Nassau, except that the mountains of the Lahn are not so high as these, and not so handsomely covered with trees to their summit. Waynesburg, where we again changed horses, occupies a very romantic situation on the Juniata. Lewistown on the Juniata, is well-built and finely situated. The road hence to Thomsonstown, led through a hilly country along the river and continued bad. On the other side of the river, the high Tuscarora mountains rise. The river is navigable from this place to Waynesburg; we saw keel-boats in it. We did not reach Thomsonstown till ten o’clock at night; we had seen but little of the surrounding country, though I heard it was very handsome.

May 26th, we arose at two o’clock, A. M., and rode to Lancaster, distant seventy-one miles, through Millerstown, Coxtown, Harrisburg, High Spire, Middletown, Rockstown, Franklin, Elizabethtown and Mountjoy. At first the road went through a hilly country along the left side of the Juniata; then we crossed in a boat at Beelen’s Ferry. The water was low, so that the rocky bottom of the river could be seen. A canal, which is already marked out, is intended to obviate the difficulties of the navigation, arising from the low state of the water. The road which we now passed, and which was not a turnpike, led us over three hills, Limestone-ridge, Mahony-ridge and Dick’s hill to Clark’s Ferry, on the Susquehanna, a little below the place where the Juniata empties into the Susquehanna, which is here about a mile wide, and rushes between two high ridges over a very rocky bed, in which at several places dams have been raised with passages in order to facilitate the navigation. On the left side a canal had already been laid out. At Clark’s Ferry, we had an extremely handsome view of the Susquehanna, which is here surrounded by such high mountains, that it resembles a lake, and calls to mind Lake George, in New York. On the left its junction with the Juniata takes place, and on the right it forces itself through a gap in a high ridge, which on the right side is called Mount Peter, and on the left, Cave mountain. Through this opening another valley is seen bounded by the Blue mountains. The broad Susquehanna is seen in front, and the high Mount Peter on the other shore.

At Clark’s Ferry we crossed the Susquehanna in a ferry-boat. The water was so clear, that the rocky bottom could be distinctly seen. Cove mountain forms an arch on the right shore, and touches the Susquehanna with its two extremities, not far from Clark’s Ferry, and again eight miles below; at this place a rocky mountain nine hundred feet high on the left shore corresponds with it, and forms a part of a ridge called Second mountain. In a space of eight miles, four ridges of mountains run parallel to each other, first Mount Peter, then Third mountain, afterwards Second mountain, and last the Blue mountains. This country is said to abound in good stone-coal. The road which we travelled is a turnpike, and runs between the Susquehanna and this mountain, out of which it is partly cut. The Blue mountains, through which the Susquehanna forces its way at right angles, forms the last chain of mountains on our route. I had first seen this chain of mountains at Nazareth, then at Harper’s Ferry, as I went to the west, and last of all, as I travelled in an eastern direction from Staunton to Charlotteville.

Behind the Blue mountains we saw grain and Indian corn flourish in a cultivated region, and reached Harrisburg. We delayed here about two hours, and met with a stage which had come from Pittsburgh by the southern road. Harrisburg is two hundred and nine miles from Pittsburgh, and a hundred from Philadelphia, occupies a somewhat elevated position between the left side of the Susquehanna and Paxton creek, and may contain about four thousand inhabitants. It is the metropolis and seat of government of the state of Pennsylvania, and contains a capitol, with the other necessary buildings. These stand on an elevation, commanding the city; the capitol is in the middle, and on both sides of it are two buildings containing public offices. All three are of brick, and their entrances decorated with colonnades of white stone. These columns stand in a semicircle. The capitol consists of two stories, with a cupola sustained by columns. The assembly rooms of the senate and of the representatives are in the lower story; the seats are arranged in a semicircle, and rise in height as in an amphitheatre. The upper story contains lodgings for the governor, which are indeed splendid, however, the present governor, Mr. Shulze, does not use them, and inhabits a private house in the city. I regretted that my time did not allow me to form a personal acquaintance with this public officer, of whom such different opinions have been entertained. The capitol and offices are covered with slate, whilst the houses of the city are generally roofed with shingles. The city is regularly built, with paved streets, and contains many brick houses, a court-house, and a jail. A covered wooden bridge leads over the Susquehanna, which is divided by an island in the river into two parts. The piers of this bridge consist of stone, not united by mortar, but by iron clamps.

At two o’clock in the afternoon we left Harrisburg, and rode thirty-six miles farther to Lancaster, in hot weather and much dust. The road was better, the stage more convenient, the changes shorter, and the passage quicker. We continued on the left side of the Susquehanna for nine miles; at Middletown we forded the Swatara creek, although a handsome wooden roofed bridge leads over it, and then left the shores of the Susquehanna. After passing Conewago creek, we entered Lancaster county, celebrated for its good cultivation, and almost entirely inhabited by descendants of Germans. The fields all appear to be extremely well cultivated; worm-fences were superseded by posts and rails. I was particularly struck with the barns, which often look better than the dwelling-houses; the houses are generally of wood, and not handsome, whereas the barns are generally built of stone, at least the lower parts containing the stabling, and the two gable-ends. Between these, the barn is built of wood; a broad ascent leads to the entrance on one side, and on the other, the barn forms a broad shed over the entrances of the stables. The cattle and horses appear to great advantage, and the breeding of sheep seems to receive attention. The houses are surrounded by orchards, and in the greater part of these I observed cider presses. The smiths here burn their charcoal close to the shops; I saw near several of these charcoal kilns on fire, in the villages. We passed by means of wooden bridges two small creeks, Little Chickie and Big Chickie creeks.

The bridges over the Swatara rest on dry stone piers. Instead of worm fences and other hedging, I saw to-day, also, some dry walls, such as I had seen last summer in Massachusetts. We came to Lancaster at ten o’clock at night, and found lodgings in a very good tavern. During our ride in the dark, we saw a large number of fireflies, which abounded particularly near wet meadows. We had for several days past also seen very handsomely coloured butterflies of different kinds.

I passed the 27th of May in Lancaster, for three reasons: first, I felt the effects of my long journey, of the heat, and of want of rest; secondly, I did not wish to pass Sunday in Philadelphia, where it is very particularly tiresome; and thirdly, I wished to post up my journal, which had been necessarily neglected during the preceding days. I took advantage of the cool morning to view the place.

Lancaster is the chief city of Lancaster county, and contains about six thousand inhabitants. It is built on a hill; the streets cross each other at right angles, and are generally paved and supplied with side-walks, shaded by Italian poplars. The houses are principally of brick, though some are also quite massive; here and there a frame building may be seen. A square place stands in the middle of the city, in whose centre the court-house is erected. The market-houses are not far from this. The museum contains merely poor wax figures, some Indian curiosities, stuffed animals, shells, some fishes, and minerals. A tame gazelle, which had been taught several tricks, was also exhibited; it could cypher, distinguish different cards, knew names, &c. Some of the inhabitants visited me, among whom was a Mr. Voigt, of Leipsig, who conducted us about the place. Lancaster is said to produce the best rifles in the United States. I bought one for eleven dollars to take home with me, as a curiosity. Mr. Voigt took us to a public garden near the city, which was tastefully arranged, and where the inhabitants of the place enjoyed themselves in playing ten-pins, and in other innocent amusements. We went afterwards on the Baltimore road, over a roofed wooden bridge, which leads over Conestoga creek. This bridge resembles those in Ohio, though much lighter; it cannot last long. The arches in Ohio are formed of eight or ten planks placed over each other, and united by screws, so that the bridge seems to rest on springs, resembling those of carriages; whereas, here the arch consisted of a single crooked fir tree. In the evening I received a number of visits, among which I may mention one from a member of congress, Mr. Buchanan, whose speeches in congress are received with much applause, and a Mennonist, Mr. Witmer, who showed me a contrivance, invented by himself, to cool wine.

On the 28th of May we left Lancaster, at five o’clock, A. M. The turnpike was in a good state, and we advanced on an average five miles an hour, so that we reached Philadelphia before seven o’clock in the evening, after travelling sixty-four miles. Between Lancaster and Philadelphia, we passed through Sandersburg, Paradise, Sadsbury, Coastville, Downingstown, and Warre; between these there are yet a number of settlements and taverns. The streams are Conestoga creek, near which they are digging the navigable canal, Peegnea creek, two arms of the Brandywine, and last of all the Schuylkill at Philadelphia. Upon the whole, the country is not hilly; we had only to ascend Mine ridge, on which we rode for several miles.

The whole country is cultivated in a most excellent manner, and covered with handsome farms; many barns look like large churches. The fences were often supplied by dry stone walls, or live hedges. A well-built hospital stands not far from Lancaster, to which an avenue of Lombardy poplars leads, here much admired. The country about Brandywine is classic ground, on which much blood was shed during the revolution. We passed near to Valley Forge, where the great Washington was encamped with his corps, whilst the English held Philadelphia. The farther we proceeded, the more clearly we saw that we approached a large city, for the number of elegant country-seats increased, and people in handsome attire met us on foot, on horseback, and in carriages. In Philadelphia we again took lodgings at the Mansion-house.

Thus I was once more on well known ground, in beloved Philadelphia. During the few days which I could pass here, old acquaintances were renewed with pleasure, and new ones formed with new interest. At the same time I saw several things which had escaped me at my former visit. Mr. Huygens, who had hitherto been my companion, now left me, and returned to his friends at Washington.