Travels Through North America, During the Years 1825 and 1826. v. 1-2

The collection is likewise rich in paintings of animals; there are four capital works by G. Potter, one of them representing two hogs, as true as if they were living. A piece by Hondekoeter, representing a chicken, belongs likewise to this class, as well as ten pieces by Cuyp, in which the landscapes are very well finished. Among these I enjoyed particularly a camp-scene with a horseman in the fore-ground, engaged in currying his horse. Six very good pieces, by Berghem ought not to be omitted, nor a handsome sea-piece by Buckhuizen, with a view of Briel in the back-ground.

Besides these pieces, there is a good collection of other paintings of the same school, but it would lead me too far, to mention them all. From other schools there are but a few and of less value. A landscape with sheep, by Titian; Christ taken down from the Cross, by Michael Angelo and Venusti, and another piece by Gonzalez. Among the paintings of modern times, I found the portrait of Garrick and his wife, by Hogarth; a domestic scene, by Greuze, and several pieces of an Italian painter, Zeffani. One of them, which has become more generally known by the copperplate of Bartolozzi, represents the Royal Academy of London, and the other the Gallery of Florence, with the portraits of several Englishmen of note, who sojourned at that time in Florence. By the same artist I saw two pieces, representing the interior of two royal palaces, with the children of George III. and their mother. These tasteless pieces, compared with the before-mentioned elegant paintings, make an unpleasant impression. I saw eight pieces by Sir Joshua Reynolds, among which his own portrait and two full-size portraits of the Portuguese Chief Marshal Count von der Lippe, and of the English General Marquis of Granby. These two pieces are masterly works, and full of expression. You distinguish in the countenance of Count von der Lippe and in his whole posture, his profound and enterprising spirit, and in the features of Lord Granby his great benevolence, which procured him in the army the name of the soldier’s friend. The features of the count excite respect, while those of the lord claim your attachment. I was much less pleased with the historical pieces of Sir Joshua. The most handsome of the newer paintings was undoubtedly the interior of the choir of a Capuchin chapel by the French painter Granet. The expression of the countenances of the monks is unparalleled; in some you see piety, in others listlessness; another couple make sport of the exceeding piety of a monk, kneeling in the middle of the hall; the countenance of a young, tall, stout monk, is the personification of fanaticism. Near the altar stands a monk in the sacerdotal habit, with two choristers and tapers in their hands, the monk singing a hymn. The light is very well executed; it enters through a large window in the back ground, and makes a fine effect on the bare crown of the head and the gray beard of the priest. I think this piece one of the finest of the whole collection. I saw here a great many gentlemen and ladies, and it is said to be fashionable to visit this splendid gallery in the afternoon.

On the 26th of July, (the anniversary of the day on which I first landed on American ground at Boston,) I went to the custom-house for the purpose of taking passage for Ostend on board the steam-boat Earl of Liverpool, Captain Peak, which was laying there at anchor. At the custom-house I was quite surprised. I expected to see the splendid, newly-erected palace for the offices of the custom-house, the same which, three years ago, I had admired so much, and instead of it, found nothing but ruins. They said that the foundation had not been well enough examined upon which the custom-house had been built by contract; the building cracked, the large, splendid hall was near falling down, and in order to prevent this accident, they were obliged to demolish the centre building; both wings of the building were yet supported by beams, but they soon will have to demolish them likewise, in order to build an entirely new house. The gentleman who made the contract to have the house built, lays the blame of this bad work upon the architect, and he upon a commission, under whose control he acted.

The Earl of Liverpool, of one hundred and thirty tons, with two engines, left London at eleven o’clock, A. M., and on the next morning at six o’clock I landed at Ostend. At four o’clock, P. M. I proceeded by the way of Bruegge to Ghent. During this journey I remembered an observation which I had heard frequently in America, that upon an American visiting Europe for the first time, nothing makes a greater impression than the old monuments, which trace the time past for many centuries, and which are a proof of the prosperity and good taste of preceding generations. I found this observation perfectly true, by my own feelings on returning from America, which exhibits none but new objects, and has nothing but a bustling present struggling for future improvement.

On the 28th of July, at four o’clock, P. M., I arrived at Ghent.

THE END

notes

1

For the benefit of my readers who are not military, I subjoin the names of offices in our navy, and their correspondence in rank with army offices: —

2

A Netherland merchant ship, employed to carry troops to the East Indies, whose wretched condition was not discovered until she was in the main ocean, and was obliged to make for Plymouth for repairs.

3

For minute description of this hospital, see Dupin.

4

[This manuscript is perhaps one of the most curious specimens of calligraphy extant. Without the aid of a microscope it is almost impossible to discover that it is not a printed work, so extremely uniform and accurate is every letter. We believe it was originally prepared for the celebrated Dr. Richard Meade of London.] – Trans.

5

[This “lady” is now one of the editors of a newspaper, published in the western country, devoted to the especial debasement of the human race. She has kindly undertaken to enlighten the Americans by endeavouring to convince them that religion is a cheat, chastity a dream, and all who adhere to the pure precept of the gospel of our Saviour, fools!] – Trans.

6

The expenses of public instruction, with the exception of Harvard University, are defrayed by means of a school tax, granted by the representatives of the state of Massachusetts, to which every inhabitant of the state is obliged to contribute. This praiseworthy arrangement exists also in Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Rhode Island, and Connecticut. In the last state, moreover, those parents who neglect to keep their children at school, are fined five dollars for every absent child, which sum goes into the school treasury.

7

[Most probably to evade a law against “nine-pins.”] – Trans.

8

[The harvest having occurred in July.] – Trans.

9

[Recently deceased.] – Trans.

10

[Since, unfortunately for his country, deceased.] – Trans.

11

[It was designed and executed in Paris.] – Trans.

12

[Improved by having a number of Shark’s teeth placed in its mouth and throat.] – Trans.

13

[This ornament of human nature, died in the year 1827.] – Trans.

14

Commodore of the navy-yard.

15

[This unwarrantable and exasperating usurpation of extending CHAINS across the public highways is not attempted by all religious sects. Through the good sense of congregations it has been entirely relinquished in some of our cities. That it is productive of more dislike to churches and churchmen than of any other result, is a truth which will one day be profoundly felt.] – Trans.

16

[Blacks are shipped as seamen in the navy of the United States, where they stand on the same level with white seamen.] – Trans.

17

[The duke, it will be recollected, was rather above six feet in height.] – Trans.

18

Here is one of the bills.

Sir,

The enclosed Federal Republican Ticket, is earnestly recommended to you for your support, This Day. Our opponents are active – Danger threatens – Every vote is important – One may be decisive. Be therefore on the alert – vote early for your own convenience, and the public good. Bring your friends to the poll, and all will be well. The improvement of the city is carefully regarded – good order and tranquillity abounds – general prosperity is every where apparent. Then secure by your vote This Day, a continuance of the present happy state of things.

Our mayor is independent, faithful, and vigilant: —Who will be mayor if we fail!!! Think on this and hesitate no longer, but vote the whole of the enclosed ticket.

(Naturalized citizens will please to take their certificates with them.)

Tuesday, October 11th, 1825.

19

[This surprise originated from the almost universal mistake of considering the elbow of animals as a knee. The anterior extremities of animals are in all respects analogous to those of the superior extremities of man; hence the second joint from the shoulder blade uniformly bends backward like the human elbow. It is not longer ago than the year 1810, that the present Sir Everard Home, whose pretensions as a comparative anatomist are well known, almost quarrelled with Mr. Peale, in presence of Sir Joseph Banks and Dr. Heavisides, for insisting upon the similarity of the anterior limbs of animals to the human arm!] – Trans.