A Journey to Ohio in 1810, as Recorded in the Journal of Margaret Van Horn Dwight

We left Mr Rees' yesterday ten oclock- & after waiting some time at the ferry house, cross'd the Susquehanna with considerable difficulty- The river is a mile wide & so shallow that the boat would scrape across the large stones so as almost to prevent it from proceeding- We only came 8 miles- the riding was awful- & the weather so cold that I thought I should perish riding 4 miles- This will do well for us, 8 miles in 3 days- We were to have seen the mountains yesterday, but are 50 miles from it – I should like to have staid at Mr Rees' till we reach home if it was possible, notwithstanding we had like to have all lost our characters there- While we were at breakfast, the black wench miss'd nearly 4 dollars of money, & very impudently accused us with taking it, in rather an indirect manner – I felt at first very angry, but anger soon gave place to pity for the poor girls loss- It was money she had been saving for a long time that she might get enough to buy her a dress- but she left it about very carelessly in the closet where any one might have taken it who was so disposed – But had I been inclined to steal, I could not have stolen from a poor black girl- I would rather have given her as much- I never felt so queerly in my life- To be suspected of theft was so new & unexpected to me, that I was wholly unprepar'd for it – We went to Mr Rees & begg'd him to take some method to satisfy the girl we were innocent but we could not prevail on him to, tho' we really wish'd it-He gave the girl a severe scolding & desir'd us not to remember it against them, or to suffer ourselves to be made a moment uneasy by it, & both himself and Mrs Rees were extremely sorry any thing of the kind had happen'd- The girl continued crying & assuring us her money had been safe all summer till then & nobody had been near it but us- I, nor any of us had any doubt that the landlord's sister, whom I before mention'd, had taken it- She had the day before 2 or 3 ninepences in her shoes, & when Mr W ventur'd to ask her if she had not taken it to tease the wench, she swore by every thing she had not touch'd it- She said it was fashionable for ladies to carry money in their shoes- I suppose she had long been eyeing it, & thought then would be a good opperty to take it but did not intend it should be discover'd till we were gone & unable to defend ourselves from the charge which she then meant to make against us – She is so worthless a character in every respect, that I am certain she could be guilty of stealing upon occasion – She was very fond of telling what ladies, like her & me, did & wore – She is between 30 & 40 yrs of age- It was an honour I was not very tenacious of, to be rank'd with her ladyship-The money was not found before we left there & I suppose the poor girl feels as certain some one of us have it, as that she has lost it- Should I ever return this way I would call & enquire about it- I hope it will be found with Babby (for that is the creatures name) —

We put up for the Sabbath at a tavern where none but the servants deign to look at us- When I am with such people, my proud spirit rises & I feel superior to them all – I believe no regard is paid to the sabbath any where in this State- It is only made a holiday of – So much swearing as I have heard amongst the Pensylvanians both men & women I have never heard before during my whole life- I feel afraid I shall become so accustom'd to hearing it, as to feel no uneasiness at it. Harrisburgh is a most dissipated place I am sure- & the small towns seem to partake of the vice & dissipation of the great ones – I believe Mrs Jackson has cast her eyes on Susan or me for a daughter in law- for my part, though I feel very well disposed toward the young man, I had not thought of making a bargain with him, but I have jolted off most of my high notions, & perhaps I may be willing to descend from a judge to a blacksmith- I shall not absolutely determine with respect to him till I get to Warren & have time to look about me & compare him with the judges Dobson & Stephenson- It is clever to have two or three strings to ones bow – But in spite of my prejudices, they are very clever – Among my list of cast offs, I would rank Dutchmen, a Pensylvania waggoner, ditto gentlemen- for their prophanity- & a Slut- The words, Landlord & lady, terrible, – get married, – get a husband-&c. &c – I do not find it as easy to write a journal as I had hoped- for we are seldom favour'd with any more than the barroom, & there is always as many men as the room will hold besides our party, & there is nine of us- so you may judge whether I find it difficult or not- I frequently begin a sentence & forget how to finish it, – for the conversation grows so loud, that I am oblig'd to listen to it & write between whiles- I sometimes get quite discouraged & think I will not try again, but I take too much pleasure in writing, to give it up willingly —

10 miles West of Carlisle- Penn-Monday Nov-5

We came but a little peice as the Dutchmen say, to day, & are in a most curious place to night- If possible I will describe it- It is a log hut built across the road from the tavern, for movers- that the landlord need not be bother'd with them – Had it been possible for our horses to have reached another inn we should not have staid with the cross old dutch fellow-we have a good fire, a long dirty table, a few boards nailed up for a closet, a dozen long boards in one side & as many barrels in the other- 2 benches to sit on, two bottomless chairs, & a floor containing dirt enough to plant potatoes – The man says he has been so bother'd with movers, that he has taken down his sign, for he does not need his tavern to live – If we had a mind to stay we might but if we chose to go on he had no objection – Cross old witch- I had rather have walk'd 10 miles than stay, but the poor horses could not – We are going to sleep on the floor all in a room together in the old stile without bothering the old Scamp, for any thing-Mrs Jackson has beds – If I did not feel provok'd with the wretch I should rest comfortably-

Tues- morn- The old man I believe feels a little asham'd of his treatment of us & was going to make some apology, but concluded by saying with a forced laugh, that if we ever came there again, he would treat us just so- He may if has oppor

—

Tuesday night- Nov-6

-

We have only counted 17 miles to day although the riding has been much better than for several days past- We stopt in Shippenburgh at noon- The town contains only one street a mile & a half in length & very thickly built- The street is some part of it pleasant, & some part dirty – I saw in it a handsome young gentleman who was both a dutchman & Pennsylvanian, yet in an hour & half I did not hear him make use of a single oath or prophane word- It was a remarkable instance, the only one I have known, & I could not but remark it- Prophanity is the characteristic of a Pennsylvanian – We are 4 miles from Strasburgh & the mountains, & one of our horses is ill, owing to Erastus giving him too many oats- Erastus is master rather than his father, & will do as he pleases for all any one- He is a stubborn fellow, & so impudent to his mother & sister, that I have no patience with him – We are not as bless'd as the Israelites were, for our shoes wax old & our cloaths wear out – I don't know that mine will last till I get there – —

Wed- morn- Last night Susan & I went to bed early, as we slept ill the night before- we expected to get good beds & were never so disappointed- We were put in an old garret that had holes in the roof big enough to crawl through- Our bed was on the floor, harder it appear'd to me, than boards could be- & dirty as possible- a dirty feather bed our only covering- After lying an hour or two, we complain'd to Mrs Wolcott who applied to the landlady for a bedstead, but could only obtain leave for us to sleep on one bed with another over us- I slept wretchedly & feel very little like climbing a mountain – Mr & Mrs W could not sleep at all & got up at about eleven oclock – She had good beds in the house or I would not have complained so much> —

Jennyauter-P – Wednesday 2 oclock P M-between 2 brothers —

This morning we cross'd the first mountain call'd first brother, & are in an inn between the first & second brother; the latter we are soon to ascend-The first m-n is 3½ miles over, – better road than we expected- but bad enough to tire the horses almost to death- We met & were overtaken by a number of people – We all walk'd the whole distance over- I did not stop at all to rest till I reach'd the top- I was then oblig'd to wait for some of them to overtake me, as I had outwalk'd them all. It is not a little fatiguing to walk up a long mountain I find – When we had nearly reach'd the foot of it, we heard some music in the valey below, & not one of us could imagine from what it proceeded; but soon found it was from the bells of a waggoner- He had twelve bells on the collars of his horses, (not sleigh bells) & they made a great variety of sounds which were really musical at a distance – We found at the tavern where we are now, or rather they came after us, a Mr Beach, & his wife who was confin'd nine days after she set out on her journey, with a little son-It is just a fortnight since she was confin'd, & this morning she ventur'd to set out on her journey again- They came from Morristown- N J- & are going to some part of the Ohio, much farther than we are going. Mrs B- appears to be a very pretty woman & quite a lady- Her father & mother, a sister & 3 little children, set out with them, but were oblig'd to leave them & go on, as soon as Mrs B was confin'd- I feel afraid she will catch her death, tho' every care is taken to render her journey safe & comfortable – She & babe are both very well now —

Fannitsburg- Penn- M

Allen's Inn-Wednesday night- Nov- 6

-

We have over come 2 mountains to day- & are between the 2

& 3

brothers- We walked over it-I have walked about 8 miles to day & feel as much fatigued as I have almost ever been in my life- It was 4 long miles over- We met a number of waggons on it- but no other travellers- This is a very small but pretty place- The 3 first m-ns are very near each other- the 4

is 40 or 50 miles distant – They are higher than I expected, & make a formidable appearance- It has been very smoky all day- I am so tir'd I can neither think or write, so good night —

Thursday morn- We had a good nights rest, but I am so lame I can scarcely walk this morning- I have a mountain to walk over, notwithstanding – Mr W's horses grow so dull that he expects to be oblig'd to put up for a few days, & we are all almost discouraged – The weather looks stormy & where we shall get to or what we shall do, I cannot imagine – The Jacksons enquire about the road & the mountains &c &c., of every one they see, & get such different & contradictory answers from each one, that it perplexes & discourages us all- I wish they would be contented to wait patiently till time & experience inform them what they cannot find out any other way- Mr W says I have now an oppor

to experience the truth of a text of scripture which says "all men are liars" – I found that out long ago- & this journey confirms the truth of it.

Peach Orchard, P- Thursday night-Phelps' Tavern —

I do not feel to night, my dear Elizabeth, as if I should ever see you again- 3 mountains & more hundreds of miles part us; & tho' I cannot give up the idea of returning, I cannot think of traversing this road again- If I live to return I will wait till the new turnpike is finished – We cross'd the last brother this morning, & found the greater part of it, better than the other two- but about 60 rods near the top it was excessively steep – We found a house at the foot of the steepest part- A woman & her 2 sons live there & keep cakes & beer – The woman told us she had no husband at present – I suppose, she has one in expectation – On the first mountain, I found some sweet Williams – We stopt at noon, at a dismal looking log hut tavern- The landlady (I hate the word but I must use it,) talk'd about bigotry, bigotted notions, liberty of conscience &c- She did not look as if she knew the meaning of conscience, much less of bigotry – All this afternoon we have been walking over young mountains, distant relations of the 3 brothers, but not half as clever- I was so lame & so tir'd that for an hour I did not know but I must set down & die- I could not ride- the road was so bad, it was worse than walking- I would not tell you all this, if you were to receive this before it is all over – It rain'd a very little all day, but just at night it began to rain very fast, & I expected we should all catch our death, walking thro' mud & mire, with no umbrella, or but one that would not cover us all- We were wet thro before we reach'd this dreadful place where we now are – The Woman is cross & the Man sick —

Friday night- It rain'd all day yesterday, & such a shocking place as this is, I never saw- A dozen Waggoners are here, some half drunk & no place for us to stay in but our waggons or a little chamber with 3 squares of glass in it- with scarcely room to sit or stand —

Saturday morn – I am now in despair, it continues raining faster than ever- The house full of drunken prophane wretches, the old woman cross as a witch- We have nothing to eat & can get nothing but some slapjacks at a baker's some distance off, & so stormy we cannot get there – Mrs Jackson frets all the time, I wish they would go on & leave us, we should do as well again – Mr Beach & his wife & child & the woman who is with them, are here, & the house is full- Mrs Beach rode in all the rain Thursday, but took no cold & bears it well as any one- It rains most dreadfully & they say it is the clearing off shower- Oh, if it only proves so – "Oh had I the wings of a dove, how soon would I meet you again" – We have never found the wretches indelicate till last evening, but while we were at tea, they began talking & singing in a most dreadful manner – We are 4 miles from Sidling hill, the next mountain, & a mile & a half from this, there is a creek which we must cross, that is so rais'd by the rain, as to render it impossible to pass it —

Saturday night- Our "clearing up shower" has lasted all day with unabated violence, – Just at sunset we had a pretty hard thunder shower, & at dusk there was clear sky visible & the evening star shone bright as possible, but now it is raining fast again – After giving an emetic I would take a long journey with my intended, to try his patience – mine is try'd sorely now- I wish you could just take a peep at me-my frock is wet & dirty a quarter of a yard high, only walking about the house- I have been in my chamber almost the whole day, but was oblig'd to go down just at night to eat, & look at the sky- I was very much frighten'd by a drunken waggoner, who came up to me as I stood by the door waiting for a candle, he put his arm round my neck, & said something which I was too frighten'd to hear- It is the first time the least insult has been offer'd to any of us- One waggoner very civilly offer'd to take Susan or me, on to Pittsg in his waggon if we were not like to get there till spring- It is not yet determin'd which shall go with him – One waggon in crossing the creek this afternoon, got turn'd over & very much injur'd – We have concluded the reason so few are willing to return from the Western country, is not that the country is so good, but because the journey is so bad – Mr W. has gone to & from there, 5 times, but thinks this will be the last time- Poor Susan groans & sighs & now then sheds a few tears-I think I exceed her in patience & fortitude – Mrs Wolcott is a woman of the most perfect equanimity I ever saw- She is a woman of great feeling & tenderness, but has the most perfect command over her feelings- She is not own mother to these children, but she is a very good one – I have learn'd Elizabeth, to eat raw pork & drink whisky-dont you think I shall do for a new country? I shall not know how to do either when I end my journey, however- We have almost got out of the land of dutchmen, but the waggoners are worse – The people here talk curiously, they all reckon instead of expect – Youns is a word I have heard used several times, but what it means I don't know, they use it so strangely – Mr Rees used to exclaim at any thing wonderful, "Only look at that now" – "I reckon you are going into the back countries" is now our usual salutation from every one – Susan is in bed for want of some employment & I will join her, after telling you, it has really clear'd off now, & the moon is shining in full splendor. – I hope to-morrows sun will deign to smile upon us- It is long since we have seen it – I expect to be oblig'd to go thro' a process of fire & brimstone at my journeys end & shall feel thankful, if that will remedy all the evils arising from dirty beds &c – I find no necessity for even that yet, but I fear I shall soon – good night —

Sunday 2 oclock P M- We left the Inn this morning in the hope of getting a little piece on our way, but have only reach'd the baker's, half a mile from where we set out- The creek is so high we cannot cross it yet- An old man & his wife live here, & appear to be very kind clever people, & what is more than we have found before, they appear to regard the Sabbath- They are Methodists- This is a small log hut, but clean & comfortable- There are no waggoners here – I shall be oblig'd to colour my frock I believe, for it attracts the attention of those creatures so much, that I dare not go in sight of them scarcely- I often think of the 2 lines your Mama repeated to us "In Silk, &c"

Sunday night

About sunset, we left the baker's & came down to the Creek, but found it was impossible to get over the waggon, & the road was so intolerable between the place we had left & the creek, that we could not go back, & what to do, it took a long time to determine; but at length Mr W concluded we had better come over to a dirty tavern this side, & let Erastus sleep in the wagon – The stream runs so fast, that we did not dare cross it alone, as there was nothing but a log to cross on; so the waggoners & our own party, were oblig'd to lead & pilot us, over the stream & thro' a most shocking place as I ever saw- The men were all very civil- they are waiting

this line is the shape of a Pensylvania waggon —

with their waggons, like the rest of us – We fare

worse & worse, & still Mr W- & his wife, tell us this is nothing to what will come- I do not fully believe them, for we cannot endure much more & live – Susan & young Mrs Jackson have been quite unwell all day – I never felt in better health, & my spirits are pretty good, considering all things – We are not able to get beds here, & are to sleep on the floor to night- There is another family here, with several little children – They say there has been a heap of people moving this fall; – I don't know exactly how many a heap is, or a sight either, which is another way of measuring people – I would be apt to think it was a terrible parcel, to use the language of the people round me – I have such an enormous appetite the whole time, that I have been in some fear of starving- for food of every kind, is very scarce with us- Money will not procure it, & nothing else I am sure, will- for they love money better than life, if possible – 4 Sabbaths we have pass'd on the road, & I suppose 2 or 3 more will pass before we get among people who "remember the sabbath day to keep it holy" – We find no books to read, only at the bakers to day I found part of a bible, a methodist hymn book & a small book containing an account of the progress of Methodism throughout the country; in letters from Ministers & others – We left Mr Beach & family, at the tavern we left to day – I hope tomorrow to write you from a comfortable place 6 or 8 miles at least from the next mountain —

Monday morn- We have now I think met with as bad as can befal us – Never, never did I pass such a night – We could get no bed & for a long time expected to be oblig'd to set up all night- but we could get no room nor fire to stay by, & the landlady was so kind as to give up her bed to us; so Mrs W & Susan went to bed there, while I went to bed with Mrs Jackson in another room- I took off my frock & boots, & had scarcely lain down, when one of the wretches came into the room & lay down by me on the outside of the bed- I was frighten'd almost to death & clung to Mrs Jackson who did not appear to mind it- & I lay for a quarter of an hour crying, & scolding & trembling, begging of him to leave me-At last, when persuaded I was in earnest, he begg'd of me not to take it amiss, as he intended no harm & only wish'd to become acquainted with me – A good for nothing brute, I wonder what he suppos'd I was- I don't know of any thought word or action of mine that could give him reason to suppose I would authorise such abominable insolence – The man & his wife, who are here, & their family, John Jackson & his wife, & Mrs Jackson, were all in the room-The moment he left the room, I put on my frock & was going in to Mrs W & Susan, but I could not get to them without going thro' the room where all the waggoners were, & Mrs Jackson did not think it safe, so I got on another part of the bed where none of them could come near me, & had been there about 10 minutes when Mrs W & Susan came into the room both crying, & as much frighten'd as I had been, for one of the creatures had been into their room, & they could scarcely get him out- Mr W- was in the waggon, & the landlord was so afraid of these waggs that he did not dare stay in his own house, for they threaten'd to put him into the creek, if he did not continue giving them liquor- I wish they had put him in- a mean sneaking fellow! – His poor wife was then oblig'd to bear it all, & she was very much distress'd on our account- She was not to blame for any thing that happen'd, for as long as her husband suffer'd it, she could not prevent it-At last Mrs W- went to bed with Mrs Jackson & me, & Susan lay down with John & his wife- We lay but a few minutes, when one of them came into our room again crawling on his hands & knees- Mrs W & I sprung & run out into the mud in our stocking feet & were going to call Mr W. – but the creatures came out to us & begg'd us not to, & pledg'd their honor (of which you may suppose they possess'd a great share) that we should not be disturb'd more- & tenderness for Mr W- who we knew would be sick to day if depriv'd of rest, at length determin'd us to go back; but we did not go to bed again till just morning, when some of us slept nearly or quite an hour- which was every wink of sleep we could obtain during the whole night- The fellows were all but one, very still afterwards- Indeed there was but 2 who made any disturbance, & only one of those was very bad- but one, was a complete child of the evil one- the vilest, worst, most blasphemous wretch, that ever liv'd – Mr W- came back to the house before 2 oclock, & this morning, threaten'd them with a prosecution- They are quite angry- they are in the employ of this man who is moving; he is a merchant & they carry his goods to Pittsg —

Nov

-12

Monday night- Nail Shop-on the 4

Mountain

We have got 8½ miles on our journey to day, & now it rains again – If I could describe to you our troubles from roads, waggoners & creeks, I would, – but it is impossible – The waggoners set out just before we did & the bad one being foremost has taken all the pains in his power to hinder our progress, by driving as slow as possible & stopping every other moment- The road was too narrow to pass them, unless they would turn out for us- all but one did, but he swore he would not- We came by them as they stopp'd at noon, & put up to night at an inn on the mountain, out of the direct road, where we should peaceably pass the night- but the waggoners have follow'd us, & the house is full- They are not in our room – Our party now consists of Mrs Jackson's, Mr Beach's & Mr W's familys – The woman who is with Mr Beach, is such a foolish old creature, that we are all out of patience with her – She is aunt to them, I believe – If I were to choose, I would never have company on a long journey- such company at least- Our chairs here are taken from us for the Waggoners – Our road over the mountains, has not even a good prospect to render it pleasant – I have been repeating to Susan all day, "Comfort damsel &c" – Mrs Jackson is scolding because she has no chair to set on. – Mr W- tells her, "Fret not thyself because of evil doers" – There is another impassable creek a head, & a hundred waggons waiting to cross it- Our prospect brightens fast-dont you think so? good night —

Tuesday eve- Nov- 13

– 4 miles east of Bedford- Penn-

We have at length escap'd the waggoners & Mr Beach- The former did not trouble us last night at all in the night- When we went to bed they watch'd us narrowly, & after we were in bed we heard them talking about us, enquiring of each other where we slept &c- We were in the room with Mr & Mrs Wolcott, directly over the room they were in, but still I felt afraid of them- The worst one is quite mad, & says he intends if possible, to give us more trouble than he has done already- The other is quite asham'd of his conduct & I suspect would be willing to make any amends in his power- He told this to Mrs Jackson who is much too familiar with them, & I believe it was owing entirely to that, that they conducted so- for the rest of us always avoid even the sight of them, as much as possible; & much more any conversation with them – We got up very early indeed & set out before breakfast, because the horses could have no hay, & we have got quite out of their reach – We cross'd a little stream call'd the Juniaatta- I spell the names as they are pronounced, but I do not spell them right, I am sure, nor can I find out how they are spelt many of them- The river is long & narrow- It takes a winding course thro' the mountains, & is a very pretty stream – We rode some distance on its banks, & the road been tolerable, it would have been pleasant- I have said so much about the badness of the roads that you will hardly believe me when I tell you we seen some of the worst to day we have ever found- & some, as good as any in this state – I should not have suppos'd it possible for any thing to pass it- Mrs W said it seem'd like going into the lower regions, but I had always an idea, that road was smooth & easy- I am sure if it was as bad as that, it would have fewer travellers-We went down however till we came to a lower region-It was really awful – We saw some men to day, mending the roads- I did not think a Pennsylvanian ever touch'd a road or made a bridge, for we are oblig'd to ride thro' every stream we come to-We have been nearly 20 miles to day; & have been oblig'd to walk up hill, till we are all very tir'd- I felt too much so to write, but I am unwilling to omit it- We are now, comfortably & quietly seated, in a private house- I only wish now, we could get rid of what company we have left- but that we cannot do —

Wednesday night. A private house-10 miles w- of Bedford

We cross'd the Juniaatta again to day, with a great deal of trouble, after waiting on its banks about 3 hours- It is astonishing how the last week's rain, rais'd every stream & overflow'd every place-The like here, has not been known for 30 years it is said – A waggoner last week, with 4 horses, was drown'd crossing a creek- He was advis'd by those who were by, not to venture- & answer'd "he would be damn'd to hell if he did not cross it" – he made the attempt & in a few minutes was sent into eternity, & probably to that awful place – It has been raining very fast this afternoon, & we put up at a little log hut, a few miles west of Bedford- we came about 10 miles to day- The house is very small & there is scarcely room to move-

Thursday night – Allegany M

Nov- 16-

We have had a warm & pleasant day till towards night, when it began to rain, as it has done every day for a fortnight- We are now at a tavern half a mile from the top of the Allegany Mt-this Mountain is 14 miles over- At the highest part of it is a most beautiful prospect of mountains- 5 or 6 ridges one after the other – We clamber'd up a high rock near to the highest part, but found the prospect little better than the one from the road- I wish I could describe it to you- We have had no prospect of any consequence from any of the mountains before- I have been quite disappointed at not seeing any – We found winter green berrys in abundance on it-I pick'd a sprig of ivy from the top, which I will send you- call it laurel & preserve it, as it came from the very backbone of America, as they all tell us – We have walk'd a great deal to day, & indeed we are oblig'd to every day, for the whole country seems one continued mtn – I thought we had reach'd the top of this, for we began to descend a little; but we have half a mile more to ascend yet – This house is full of travvellers & wag'nrs but all are very peacable-There is a curiosity in the house- a young lady who has come from N Connecticut unmarried – after staying in Warren a year – a thing I never before heard of, & had begun to think impossible. I feel quite encouraged by it- & do not believe the place as dangerous as is generally reported – I find in every family a Paggy – every body is dutch – the children & girls, are all very much attracted by my little black buttons, & the manner in which my frock is made-& the Wag'rs by the colour of it- There will be little of it left by the time I get to Warren, for it is almost gone —

Friday night- Allegany M

—

After a comfortable nights rest, we set out on foot to reach the height of the mtn – It rain'd fast for a long time, & at length began snowing- We found the roads bad past description, – worse than you can possibly imagine- Large stones & deep mud holes every step of the way- We were oblig'd to walk as much as we possibly could, as the horses could scarcely stir the waggon the mud was so deep & the stones so large – It has grown so cold that I fear we shall all perish tomorrow- We suffer'd with cold excessively, to day- From what I have seen and heard, I think the State of Ohio will be well fill'd before winter, – Waggons without number, every day go on- One went on containing forty people- We almost every day, see them with 18 or 20- one stopt here to night with 21 – We are at a baker's, near a tavern which is fill'd with movers & waggoners- It is a comfortable place, but rather small- One old man has been in examining my writing, & giving his opinion of it in dutch, to a young fellow who was with him- He said he could not read a word of any thing – He found fault with the ink, but commended the straitness & facility with which I wrote- in english- I was glad he had not on his specs – We came but 10 miles to day, & are yet on the Allegany- It is up hill almost all the way down the mountains – I do not know when we are down them for my part —I'm thinking as they say here, we shall be oblig'd to winter on it, for I reckon we shall be unable to proceed on our journey, on account of roads, weather, &c – We are on the old Pennsylvania road- the Glade road is said to be ten times worse than this-That is utterly impossible- We thought we should escape the waggoners this way; but find as many of them as ever- they are a very great annoyance – What would the old man say hereto? – I am very tir'd, so good night —

Saturday eve-2 miles from Laurel Hill-Penn-