A Journey to Ohio in 1810, as Recorded in the Journal of Margaret Van Horn Dwight

We came but 9 or 10 miles to day, & are now near the 6th Mountain- in a tavern fill'd with half drunken noisy waggoners – One of them lies singing directly before the fire; proposing just now to call for a song from the young ladies – I can neither think nor write he makes so much noise with his love songs; I am every moment expecting something dreadful & dare not lay down my pen lest they should think me listening to them- They are the very worst wretches that ever liv'd, I do believe, – I am out of all patience with them- The whole world nor any thing in it, would tempt me to stay in this State three months- I dislike everything belonging to it – I am not so foolish as to suppose there are no better people in it than those we have seen; but let them be ever so good, I never desire to see any of them – We overtook an old waggoner whose waggon had got set in the mud, & I never heard a creature swear so- & whipt his horses till I thought they would die – I could not but wonder at the patience and forbearance of the Almighty, whose awful name was so blasphem'd – We also overtook a young Doctor-who is going with his father to Mad river in the state of Ohio – He has been studying physic in New Jersey, – but appears to be an uneducated man from the language he makes use of – I believe both himself & his father are very clever- I heard them reproving a swearer – He dresses smart, & was so polite as to assist us in getting over the mud – Susan & I walk'd on before the waggon as usual, & he overtook us and invited us into the house & call'd for some brandy sling- we did not drink, which he appear'd not to like very well, & has scarcely spoken to us since – He thinks himself a gentleman of the first chop, & takes the liberty of coining words for himself- Speaking of the people in this state, he said they were very ignorant & very superstitionary – perhaps you have heard the word before- I never did —

Sunday morn- We had good beds last night, contrary to my expectation, – and we are going on our journey this morning- It is extremely cold & very bad riding or walking- Mr W- has been so long detain'd by bad weather & riding, that he thinks himself justifiable in riding on the sabbath- I thought so some time ago —

Sunday noon- We are on the top of Laurel Hill, the 6th mountain – We women & girls, have walk'd between 5 & 6 miles this morning – We left the waggons getting along very slowly, & came on to a house to warm us- It is a log hut & full of children, as is every one we come to – The wind whistles about us, & it looks very much like snow – One waggon got set this morning, & hinder'd us this long time – The young Doctor & his father are still in company with us – The former, who has got over his pouting fit, leaves his father to drive, – while he walks on with the ladies- he is not with us just now – He has not conquer'd the antipathy I bear a young physician – or rather a young Doctor – How little it seems like the sabbath – I would not write if I could do any thing else – but I can not even think good thoughts —

Sunday eve – Nov-19

– Foot of Laurel Hill – Penn —

I wish my dear Elizabeth, you could be here for half an hour, & hear the strangest man talk, that you or I ever saw in this world – He is either mad or a fool – I don't know which, but he looking over me & telling me I can make a writer – He is the most rating, ranting fellow – I wish you could hear him – I begin to think him mad – His name is Smith – He & his wife are journeying either to New Orleans or the Ohio – I never was more diverted than to hear him (he is certainly crazy – repeating a prayer & a sermon & forty other things in a breath) talk about the Dutchmen in Pennsylvania – He & his wife came amongst them one evening & stopt at several houses to get entertainment, but was sent on by each one to the tavern – He began by stating his religious tenets, & at length after every body & thing was created, he says the under Gods (of whom he supposes there were a great number) took some of the skum & stir'd it up, & those fellows came out – or rather Hell boil'd over & they were form'd of the skum – I believe he has been studying all his life for hard words & pompous speeches, & he rattled them off at a strange rate – His language is very ungrammatical – but the Jacksons are all in raptures with him – They cannot understand his language (nor indeed could any one else) & therefore concluded he must be very learned- Their observations are almost as diverting as his conversation- I could make them believe in ten minutes, that I was a girl of great larnin-if I were to say over Kermogenious- Heterogenious & a few such words without any connection – no matter if I do but bring them in some how – We are over the 6th mountain & at an Inn at the foot of it- This mtn is called worse than any of them- it is only about 6 miles over- We have only come 8 to day, & I have not been in the waggon- The horses once or twice got set, & cast &c- we have had a deal of bad luck – There is a great many travellers here-the house is full – The young Dr told me he was married, to day – I like him rather better than I did, before, & ventured to walk on a mile or two with him- He gave me the history of his courtship &c-and some information respecting the part of Ohio he is going to, that was quite interesting – Susan chose to ride down the hill, & I outwalk'd Mrs W, so we were quite alone till we reach'd this house- Mrs Jackson & Eliza had gone on before us, and I every moment expected to overtake them, but did not see them till we got here – I am very tir'd & have laughed myself into a headache; so I can write no more to night.

Monday morn- Last night we were again cheated out of our beds, & oblig'd to pass the night as we could, & that was most uncomfortably- I was quite unwell with the headache, & had waited for a bed an hour & a half longer than I felt able to set up; & when I found I could get none, I had a long crying spell – This morning I feel almost sick – Mr W-is so much afraid of making trouble, that he will wait till every body else is served, & let them cheat him out of his eyes, & say nothing. Our party here consists of English, Irish, German, & Americans-2 of the first- 4 of the second- 1 of the third- & a house full of the last – This strange man is an everlasting talker- He knows every body & every thing about them- He has been repeating one of Mr Pierpont Edwards' speeches to me- & one of Mr Hilhouse's-Not one second elapses between his words-He is a very pompous fellow & takes great pains to display what he does know- He has been a schoolmaster-& now I suspect is crazy & running away with a girl he calls his wife- but who seems to be nobody – It rain'd very fast last night- & is more muddy than ever —

Monday night- a mile west of the mountains-

Rejoice with me my dear Elizabeth, that we are at length over all the mountains, so call'd – I do not suppose we shall be much better off than we were before, as it respects roads- for I had just as lieve go over a mountain, as to go over the same distance of any part of the road we have had this fortnight or three weeks- But it sounds well to say we are over the mountains – We cross'd Chesnut Ridge, the 7th & last M

this afternoon- It is 5 miles over – 12 miles we have come to day – There is a pretty prospect of hills as you come down the M

– One house on the top of it – We have taken a great deal of pains to get rid of company to day, by going forward & staying behind- but it is an unpossibility (Mr Newington) I am more out of patience than ever – We came on to the 4th tavern after we got down, – because we thought those behind us, would stop sooner- Mrs Jackson & her tribe were with us-but we thought all the rest were out of the reach of us- This is a little hut, one window in front- but it is neat & comfortable inside, & we were all quietly seated round the fire, congratulating ourselves on our escape, when in came the young doctor- I thought we should all scream out- Mrs Jackson told him she thought we had lost him- he said he lik'd not to have found us- I wish with all my heart, they had got fast in the mud a little while. The rattlebrain'd fellow is not here, to talk us to death – He pass'd us on the road, singing & screaming, advising us to go back & learn hog latin- alias German- or dutch – We are now 41 miles from Pitt —

Nov

21

Tuesday Night-A mile from Greensburg-Penn-

We have had better roads to day, but only came 10 miles – Last night we had good beds, but were oblig'd to sleep in the room with the Dr & his father-Mr & Mrs W- of course, as we have determin'd not to sleep out of their room again – The landlord & his wife were extremely clever- they gave us a great many apples & some cherry bounce- Such treatment, after being refus'd even the privilege of getting any victuals, – as we were the night before, was very welcome – The landlord has been a waggoner-"Only look at that now" – A clever waggoner! I cannot but think his cleverness (is there such a word?) came after he gave up his waggon – After riding a little way, we overtook Mr Smith again, & found he had been fighting with a waggoner, who began to insult him, by calling him a damn'd Yankee-before they ended Mr S- whipt 3 of them- I was glad they got whipt, for almost every one deserves it – Mr S- lamented we were not there to see the fun- He declar'd, or rather swore, he would not leave us again, but would stand by and fight for all- He lets his wife ride alone, & he walks on to talk to every one that will listen to him – As for the Dr, he is "nothing but a pester" – Susan & I took a great deal of pains to go either before or behind to get rid of his company, but it does no good, for he will either wait, or walk faster- I had a great mind to ask him, if he expected to lose his wife soon-We pass'd thro Greensburg, a pretty little town, situated on a high hill- the other waggons had gone on, & were bating in the town- but Mr W- did not stop, so the Dr follow'd on & left his father, & waited at another place for us to bait- We were only able to come a mile farther, as the horses fail'd-The rest of the company had gone on, expecting us to follow- The Dr came in here with us & I thought intended to stay, by his actions, but he at length walk'd on to join the rest of his company – We have escap'd hearing Mr S- talk, which I would not be oblig'd to do for 9 pence an hour-

Wednesday morn- I have not spent so pleasant an evening this long time as the last- Will you believe me, when I tell you we heard some waggoners conversing upon religious subjects- instead of swearing & cursing- One is an Irish waggoner, & appears to be sensible, well inform'd man- & what is more, has read his bible- 2 clever waggoners! I think I will never condemn a whole race again- I can now, even believe it possible to find a clever Dutchman in Pennsylvania. I hope we shall lose all our company this morning- but I expect they will wait for us- This is a good tavern- We have had sun shine for 2 days past- The weather, as it respects heat & cold, is very variable- but it invariably rains every day —

Thursday Morn- Sewel's tavern-Versailes-township-

Yesterday morning, we did not set out till quite late, but had the good fortune to overtake all our company within an hour or two, & were oblig'd once more to put up with them- We had also, a considerable addition to our party – We were oblig'd to walk a great deal, & just at night, I happen'd to be on before the waggon some distance & prevented Mr W- from stopping at a private house, which we pass'd- I did not think of his wishing it till Mrs J-mentioned it, I then set out to return, but saw the waggon coming & sat down on a log- We did not reach a tavern till some time after dark- & Mr W-got hurt & his waggon got set-, & he feels unpleasantly towards me, & thinks me the whole cause of his trouble – The whole family feel & treat me differently this morning, & I can not think myself to blame- for we are oblig'd to walk almost all the time, & if we are behind the waggon Mr W- always is angry – Mrs W- Susan & I, were oblig'd to walk, till we found a house, & if the young Dr had not been with us, I don't know but we should have pass'd the night in the woods – but he was so good as to assist us – The gentlemen all reach'd the tavern before us, & when Mr W- came & told his trouble, they very kindly went back & assisted him – There were but two beds to be had, so Mr Smith gave up his place to me, & Mr & Mrs W took the other – The gentlemen were very noisy all night, as they could not lie down – I am much better pleas'd with Mr & Mrs Smith, than I was before- He is a lawyer- & I believe knows more, than I at first suspected – He is a great talker, & has a story for everything- We came 14 miles yesterday – To day I am so dreadfully lame that every step I take, almost brings tears- my feet are sore with walking-

Nov-24- Friday morn- Turtle Creek-Penn-

One misfortune follows another, and I fear we shall never reach our journey's end – Yesterday we came about 3 miles – After coming down an awful hill, we were oblig'd to cross a creek; but before we quite came to it, the horses got mired, & we expected every moment one of them would die-but Erastus held his head out of water, while Mr W-was attempting to unharness them, & Mrs W- & Susan were on the bank, calling for help – I sat by, to see the horse breathe his last; but was happily disappointed in my expectation – No assistance could be got- till Mr W- waded though the water, & then 2 men with 3 horses came over – We came to this Inn, & Mr W- thought it best to stay till this morning- All our company have gone on- Mr Smith invited me to ride with his wife, on to Pitts'g- & I on some accounts, wish I had accepted his invitation-indeed I could scarcely get beside it —

We found a gentleman (Doctor I presume by his looks-) here, who was very sociable & staid an hour with us- He appear'd to be a man of good information & considerable politeness – We found the landlord very good natur'd & obliging, & his wife directly the contrary – We find the men generally, much more so than their wives – We are 12 miles from Pitt – & here like to be- The landlord offers to keep Susan & me, till spring, & let the old folks go on – We got into the slough of Despond yesterday-& are now at the foot of the hill Difficulty- which is half a mile long- one waggon is already fast in the mud on it- & Mr W- is afraid to attempt it himself – I think I will winter here —

Friday eve- 9 miles past Pitts'g – Penn-

This morning we set out once more & proceeded 4 miles- It was snowing very fast, & one of our horses was taken sick & could scarcely get that little distance-Mr W- was oblig'd to whip it almost every step to keep it from lying down – We could not ride at all & stopt at the first tavern we came to – We are afraid the horse will die & then what will become of us? – I am more than ever discouraged-

Sat-morn- Our horse is better & we are going to set out again —

Nov

26- Saturday night- 3½ miles beyond Pittsburg-

Just as we were getting into the waggon this morning, Mr W- found he had left his great coat 4 miles back, & went back on foot after it, while we proceeded to Pitts- which we reach'd about noon – Mr W- came about an hour after – After getting well warm, Susan & I were going out to view the town, when Mr W- came & hurried us away, as he wished to cross the river before night- From the little we did see of the town, I was extremely disappointed at its appearance- It is not one half as large as I suppos'd- but I am unable to give you any account of it, from my own observation – It is situated at the confluence of the 2 rivers, the Alleghany, & Monongahela- The town suffer'd very much by the flood- One house floated down the river- its inhabitants were in the upper part of it calling for assistance-none could be render'd & what became of them I did not learn- I believe it is not known- It was late before we could cross the river (Alleghany) & we came on but 3 miles & a half to a very good tavern- The man & his wife are both good natur'd – We found the road to day, better than for a long time – We left almost all the stones when we cross'd the last mountain- & to day I believe we have cross'd the last hills of any consequence- We are now- "on the banks of the pleasant Ohio" —

Sunday eve- It has been all day & still is, raining another flood I fear- All the men in the neighborhood came here to keep the sabbath by drinking whiskey &c. &c- but no swearing – I sat reading very quietly & one of them came & desir'd to look over me- I very much doubted whether he could read, but he convinc'd me he could by his observations, which were given with such a tobacco breath as almost suffocated me- He was not more than half shaved, & could read without spelling more than half the words- for he would read a page & half in an hour, nearly – There is a sweet little boy here about 3 years old- He has been writing with me some time & talks so much to me that I am as slow writing as this man was reading – This is the 6th sabbath since I left you – We have lost our company – I quite want to see some of them again —

Wednesday Nov- 28- 7 miles from Greersburg-Penn-

I have had no opporty of writing you for 3 days-before now- We set out in the rain on Monday, & came on 13 miles- to a hut- with a sign up call'd a tavern- & such a place! – I found the people belong'd to a very ancient & noble family- They were first & second cousins to his Satanic Majesty – I could but wonder that he should suffer them to lead so laborious a life, for they are among his most faithful friends & subjects – Probably they are more useful to him in that station, by increasing the number of his subjects – Their dwelling resembles that of their royal cousin- for it is very dark & gloomy & only lighted by a great fire- No one who is once caught in it, ever wishes to be again – The man is only related by marriage to his lordship —

Wednesday eve —

The house had only one room in it – There was a number of travellers & we got but one bed- that was straw or something harder- The pillow case had been on 5 or 6 years I reckon, so I pin'd over my handkerchief- & put night gown over my frock – We rose an hour before day break, got breakfast & set out in the snow for another hut- We rode several miles on the Northern bank of the Ohio- We saw a very large rock containing a great many names-we added ours to the number – The road was at the foot of a very high hill or mountain, & so near the river, there was scarcely room for a waggon- I rode in constant fear, for the bank down to the river, was very high and steep – We came on 12 miles, to Beaver town, on Tuesday- We cross'd the big Beaver, a stream which empties into the Ohio- It is generally, fordable, but is at present so rais'd by the rain, that a flat is used – We found a very good Inn at Beaver town; & soon after supper, Judge Austin & a Mr Weatherby (Merchant-) of Warren, came in – Not Dobson nor Stephenson) – I felt as glad to see them & as well acquainted with them in a few minutes, as if we had all our lives been neighbors – The Judge, resembles Dr Goodsel in his looks: – but is older & larger- Mr Weatherby looks like T. Devereaux – They both, told me they were sorry Mr Edwards did not know I was on the road, that he might have sent an horse after me – They were on their way to Pittg but Judge A, had some idea of returning immediately back to Warren, & they had a mind to hire a horse & have me return with him, but Mr Wolcott objected – I can guess his reason for it, but I will not write it – I very much wish'd it, as I fear I shall be oblig'd to walk a good part of the way- Mr W- says it would not hurt any of us to walk 9 miles every day of our lives- I told him I should not like to walk it in stormy weather, as we are now oblig'd to; but he said it would not hurt me if I shouldn't – I have already worn out my boots almost entirely, with walking – Mr W- is a very strange man- I don't know what to make of him – I shall be so thankful to get thro'– & then if I am caught with a Deacon of any name, again, I shall deserve to suffer – We are within 40 miles of Warren, & to be unable to get there under 4 or 5 days, is perfectly tantalizing – We came 10½ miles to day, & are at a very comfortable Inn, just in the edge of Greersburg- We expected to get a little further, to Hart's tavern quite in the town: & there I hop'd to see judge Austin again, & I determin'd at any rate to accept his offer of getting me a horse, & go directly on with him, for I do not intend to walk 9 miles a day till we get there, if I can help it- even if it will not hurt me – I won't take the good deacon's word for that. The horses are really tir'd out & out, & every day by the time we get 4 miles they will stop & it is extremely difficult to get them on at all- but it is so expensive hiring a horse to go on, that as long as the waggon alone, can be drawn 3 or 4 miles a day, it will not be done – but I feel provoked, as you will easily see, so I will write no more on this subject – I am so anxious to end my journey, that I have lost all interest about the country I pass through – it snows or rains every day, constantly – I think in good weather, the ride from Warren to Pittsg must be pleasant- If that were at present the case, my journal would be as much more interesting, as my journey would be pleasanter – I am quite tir'd of both, but still so habituated to them, that I think it will seem very strange for a few days after I end them, (if I live after that time) not to run out the waggon as soon as I have eaten my breakfast – & not to have my journal in my work-bag to fill it up – It is very troublesome I assure you – I fear it will be worn out before you get it- it is already very dirty, & so badly written you will never read half of it —

Thursday eve-

10 miles as usual has been our days ride – I have not walk'd my 9 miles, but I walk'd as much as I could- We are in a comfortable house before an excellent fire- It is snowing very fast —

Saturday- P M- Warren – After so long a time —

Friday morning we set out early with the hope of getting to Youngstown at night & to Warren to night, but 4 miles from Y – n, the horses were so tir'd they would not stir, so we stopt at a private house for the night, an hour before sun down – We had been in the house but a little time, when Susan look'd out & told me she thought there was some one after me, & I soon saw Mr Edwards & 2 horses – "I was never so happy I think" – I ran out to meet him- He came in & set a while, & just at dark we started for Youngstown – Mr Edwards insisted upon Susan's going with us, so she rode behind him, and I rode the single horse – We reach'd Cousin Joseph Woodbridge's about the middle of the eve – They got us a good supper & gave us a bed – Mrs W- is a very pretty woman (I mean pleasing) – They have 3 children, & appear to be very well off, (you understand me) & happy – They live in a very comfortable log house, pleasantly situated-A cousin in this country, is not to be slighted I assure you- I would give more for one in this country, than for 20 in old Connecticut – This morning Mrs Todd came over to see us, & urg'd us to stay & spend the day with her – But spite of her solicitations, we set out for Warren soon after breakfast – My horse was extremely dull & we did not get here till near 2 oclock – Cousin Louisa was as happy to see me as I could wish, & I think I shall be very happy & contented – The town is pleasanter than I expected- The house better- & the children as fine – Cousin has alter'd very little, in any way – I found a Mrs Waldo here just going to Connecticut, & lest I should not have another opporty, I intend sending this by them, without even time to read it over & correct it – I am asham'd of it My dear Elizabeth, & were it not for my promise to you, I don't know that I should dare to send it – I will write your Mama by mail, I have not time for a letter now – My very best love to every body – I have a great deal more to say, but no more time than just to tell you, I am ever

    & most affectly Yours-

    M V D —
    Let no one see this but your own family —

notes

1

For the description at the word Phebeish, the reader is referred to Miss Julia.