Journal of a Horticultural Tour through Germany, Belgium, and part of France, in the Autumn of 1835

The palace of Nymphenburg forms almost a semicircle of a large radius on the Munich side, or principal front, but that facing the gardens is more of an oblong square, and in consequence of the numerous roofs appearing from the semicircular front, that are disconnected and of various elevation from the main building, it has more the appearance of a number of small villas, than of a royal residence, particularly as we approach it from Munich, by the side of the straight canal that leads to the principal entrance. Nearly opposite the centre of the palace on this side is a circuitous basin of water with a fountain in the centre and rockwork around it. This water is conveyed into the gardens, and must be of great extent from the appearance of the course it was running, which leads a considerable way towards Munich. After our return from Nymphenburg gardens, we proceeded to the English garden, which is said to contain about five hundred English acres of ground, and is a favorite promenade for the inhabitants of Munich. This park, or pleasure ground, is rather of a flat surface, but much diversified by clumps of various trees and shrubs, and fine sheets of water, the margins of which are much varied, but unfortunately full of weeds. The drives and walks that lead through these grounds in different directions are very extensive, some of them being nearly five miles in length. The grounds adjacent to the queen's palace are very well kept, and deserving of notice; but a piece of water in view from it is very filthy, which is the more extraordinary, as it might be easily kept clean by turning into it a branch of the river that runs through these grounds.

We observed some very fine specimens of the Juglans fraxinifolia with fruit on them, and very large trees of the Salix alba, which were here in greater size than any I had ever seen. Numerous clumps of various kinds of trees and shrubs are grouped together; but these are in most instances rather crowded, and not enough of lawn is seen to intervene between them. A handsome observatory was erecting, situated on an artificial mound, which, when finished, will command a fine prospect over these grounds. We also visited several of the churches. St. Mary's church is very splendidly fitted up, and has handsome marble columns. In it is placed a very superior statue of Eugene Beauharnois. St. Michael's church is likewise deserving of notice from the beautiful marble columns. The choirs of the different churches were this day all decorated with Orange trees, Hydrangeas, and other flowering plants.

Sept. 7th. I appointed to be in the Botanic gardens with M. Seitz, by eight o'clock in the morning. Immediately on my arrival I met with Mr. Forster, nephew to the vice president of the Linnean Society, who is also much attached to botany. The greater part of the day was spent with M. Seitz, looking over the numerous species of Cacteæ, and Succulentæ, and after having finished my visit here, he had the kindness to conduct me to the Glyptothek, which is a very magnificent quadrangular building, containing a fine collection of antique sculpture; the floors and walls are inlaid with various marbles, the ceilings richly ornamented with gilt mouldings, and fresco paintings. It has twelve apartments, one of which is devoted to modern sculpture, and possesses some fine specimens in this art.

I next proceeded to the Pinakothek, which is situated at a short distance from the Glyptothek, and is likewise a very splendid building, but it is not yet finished. It is intended as a repository for paintings, and consists of a number of very capacious apartments with gilt ceilings of extraordinary splendour. The suite of rooms is said to be 500 feet in length, and on the south side is a long passage or gallery, the ceiling of which is ornamented with fine fresco paintings. The exterior of this Pinakothek is equally magnificent, and when finished will undoubtedly be one of the most attractive objects in Europe.

Sept. 8th. This being a holiday and inclined to rain, we visited the royal palace, which is at present undergoing great alterations and additions. The first object that attracted my notice, was the granite steps of the king's staircase, which measured twenty one feet in width; at the top is the body guard room, and then an inner ante-room, the walls of which are beautifully ornamented with fresco paintings, as is likewise the adjoining room, in which are represented as though suspended from the ceiling and cornice, fresco painting of numerous fishes.

The family dining room, with cove ceiling and fresco paintings, and most beautiful inlaid floor, must attract general admiration. The throne room is however still more capacious, and the walls are ornamented by various alto-relievos in plaster. I observed in several of the windows that the squares of glass used were five feet long by three feet in width. His majesty's cabinet is also splendidly fitted up. The apartments intended for the queen are still more superbly finished, and represent subjects in fresco painting taken from the German poets.

The surbase of her majesty's room is of fine marble; the room is about forty feet square, the dressing room of rather larger dimensions. The queen's throne room is really most splendidly finished, the walls and mouldings gilt, and the surbase of fine blue marble. There are several other apartments intended for her majesty, representing in fresco paintings various subjects from the poems of Burgher; with the pilgrimage to the holy sepulchre in fresco. The grand staircase is most magnificent; the walls and steps are of fine marble, with four Ionic marble columns at the top, the whole furnished in the most superb style. The lower suite of apartments is equally splendid; the walls are decorated with paintings in fresco of several of the emperors of Germany. The magnificence of the decorations on the walls and ceilings of the new apartments in this palace are such that no one can form any idea of their grandeur without a visit.

Adjoining to this, is the statue gallery of antiquities, which measures about three hundred and thirty six feet in length, by forty five in width, with a cove ceiling painted in fresco. I here saw a beautiful Florentine Mosaic table, for which Napoleon offered sixteen thousand florins. There is also a Bavarian almanack of the fifteenth and sixteenth century, in form of a circular table, about seven feet in diameter, inlaid with brass; but the letters and figures almost obliterated. The entrance to this antique gallery consists of a handsome grotto in shell work, with various figures, birds, and devices, in alto-relievo.

There is placed opposite the new addition to the palace a colossal figure in bronze of the late emperor, with a huge lion at his feet. Near this palace is a magnificent Post-office, now building. There is also the Theatre, which is likewise a very splendid structure. We next visited the Gallery of Paintings, which is well deserving of notice, and contains a very valuable collection of pictures. The space of ground called the Hof Garden, which is a fashionable promenade, and consists of numerous rows of trees and gravel walks, is bounded on one side by a very long gallery, highly ornamented with various frescos. Although denominated a garden, I could see neither flowers nor shrubs; only rows of trees, that formed a shady promenade in the summer months, when it is much frequented by tea-parties.

In the afternoon we made another visit to the English garden, and round the environs of the town; but this being a holiday, all the principal establishments were shut. I was however unable to hear of there being any other garden establishment worth seeing, that I had not previously seen: we therefore procured our passports, and secured our places in the diligence for Stuttgard.

Sept. 9th. Left Munich at six o'clock a.m. The scenery for the first stage was rather flat, but as we approached Augsburg it became considerably more varied. By the side of the road on this route I observed the Gentiana Pneumonanthe, in great abundance; I here had an opportunity of collecting several specimens, whilst the diligence was ascending a long hill, which was well planted, and where some fine trees of the spruce fir were in view.

The houses in Augsburg have old-fashioned red tiled roofs, with numerous windows projecting like skylights, even five rows deep on the sides, in very bad taste. Augsburg contains 27,000 inhabitants; and several ancient buildings, particularly the Episcopal palace, Cathedral, and Town-hall. The Cathedral, a Gothic building, contains some curious old tapestry and paintings, representing the apostles sleeping whilst our Saviour was praying. There are also some curious old tombs, with models; and several handsome fonts with large bronze figures. The Town-house, which contains a picture gallery over the ground floor, is a very fine building; the gallery where the paintings are kept is 120 feet long, 62 feet wide, and 56 feet high, with a carved wood ceiling, richly gilt. The pictures were many of them of immense dimensions, and in fine preservation, but of the old German school. We here also visited the German Literary Gazette printing-office, and also the steam engine which is used for throwing up the water to supply the different fountains in the town.

Whilst Mr. Parker was making purchases of books here, I proceeded to the garden of M. Schatzle, which is situated in the suburbs. This garden is very well kept, and contains some good exotic and Cape plants, and a good shew of summer flowers, with several straight avenues of trees planted so as to form an arbour or shady walk. In this garden is placed a colossal group in bronze that weighs 10,500 pounds, executed by Chirardi in honour of Fugger. The first of the Fugger family was an Augsburg merchant, and is said to have left his heirs above six millions of golden crowns, besides other property. From thence I proceeded to the nursery of M. Schultz, which contains vegetables as well as nursery stock: there are two or three small hothouses, or rather pits, for the growth of the tender species, but I saw but little in this establishment worth notice, although considered the best nursery garden about Augsburg.

It was now drawing near the hour that we were to take our departure from Augsburg in the diligence; whence we started at 7 o'clock p.m. for Ulm, the next town of any note.

I omitted to mention that we were accompanied through the different departments in Augsburg by the French gentleman who travelled with us from Dresden to Munich, and also by Mr. Withy, who was returning from a tour, and going then to Heidelberg; he travelled with us as far as Stuttgard, where we all parted.

Sept. 10th. Arrived at Ulm at half-past four o'clock in the morning. This is a pretty town, situated on the left bank of the Danube, in the kingdom of Wurtemberg, and is said to contain 23,000 inhabitants. We stopped here about an hour.

The first stage beyond Ulm consists of a fine agricultural district. The second stage presented rocky and fine scenery, planted with hard wood, the birch and beech trees intermixed, but the latter sort pre-hills on both sides, which is particularly picturesque, and surpasses the much admired Matlock scenery, for many miles. When we arrived at Geislingen we had time to admire the huge rocks peeping out amongst the trees opposite this village, where there is also a very fine prospect tower, which overlooks the town, and great extent of country. I observed, growing on the banks of Geislingen glen, the Asclepius vincetoxicum, Helleborus officinalis, and several other scarce plants.

Along this country numerous orchards of fruit trees prevailed, such as plums, pears, and the apple, which were very abundant, all growing close by the road side and full of fruit.

The road through Geislingen to Goppingen is very beautiful, being a great vineyard country for many miles, commencing about Plockingen, and extending along the face of the hills to Stuttgard. We passed through an old fashioned town called Esslingen, which is situated on the Necker, a river that heightens in a great degree the beauty of the whole valley along which it winds.

Cobbett's corn appears to be extensively cultivated in this district, particularly near to Stuttgard, where we arrived at six o'clock in the evening. Here I lost all my travelling companions, Mr. Parker starting for Frankfort immediately, and Mr. Withy the following morning for Heidelberg; both which towns I afterwards visited.

Sept. 11th. M. Hertz, who has a small nursery garden in Stuttgard, and whom I had previously seen in Kew gardens, very kindly volunteered to accompany me to the Royal Botanic Gardens here, which are situated at a short distance from the palace, and contain a number of old hothouses, and a good collection of plants in a very healthy state. In short, I was surprised to see the plants looking so healthy in such old worn out opaque roofed houses.

There are also cultivated here many very fine specimens of the Cacteæ. I saw one of the Cacteæ senilis above eighteen inches long, a very fine healthy plant. The Echinocactus cornigerus measured about six inches in circumference, and some other kinds were also nearly as fine.

The pleasure ground belonging to this palace contains about two hundred and sixty German acres; it is tastefully planted, and laid out in numerous drives and rides, forming a pleasant promenade for the public.

A very fine orangery, with dark roof, is situated at a considerable distance from the Botanic gardens, and near it a very complete flower house was erecting, the rafters of which were of metal, and the sashes all wood, heated with smoke flues, that pass under the pit, where an arched cellar is formed, so that mushrooms or other vegetables may be accelerated. I regretted that this house was not heated by hot-water, which would have rendered it very complete. It is intended to remove near to it the kitchen garden, which is situated at a very different part of the town, and in a very dilapidated state. Numerous pits for melons, and pines, are in these gardens, but in this state of intended transition they are not kept in good repair. After going through these different departments, M. Bosch, the superintendent of all the Royal gardens, then returned to the Botanic garden, while M. Hertz conducted me to a small villa garden, containing a very choice collection of Cacteæ, some fine large specimens of the Opuntia tribe and Cereuses were here.

Having called on the Baron de Meyendorff, the Russian ambassador at Stuttgard, his excellency accompanied me to a small nursery garden, which contained some good specimens of plants of the more hardy sorts of the New Holland and Cape species, but little of novelty amongst them. From hence we proceeded to the chateau of General Spizenberg, which has been lately erected on the side of a hill, commanding a most delightful and extensive prospect of Stuttgard and its varied scenery. I was much gratified to find that the old warrior, after undergoing the fatigues of many campaigns, was now devoting his leisure hours to the pursuit of botany and horticulture. Baron Meyendorff informed me that the general acts entirely as his own gardener, and he has certainly succeeded in forming a very choice collection of plants, consisting of hardy shrub, perennials, and exotics. There are grown in this small spot, sixty sorts of Camellias, a good variety of Ericas, and numerous other Cape plants, with some very curious Cacteæ. In a little stove, divided in two divisions, I observed also a few pine apples, but of a very inferior size, and not worth the trouble even of eating, let alone rearing. The other description of plants looked healthy, the peach-trees against the low wall were very well managed and neatly trained. The vines were also judiciously trained to a wooden trellising against the wall. On the whole it is an interesting collection, and well worth the stranger's notice. On my return I proceeded in the afternoon to Rosenstein palace, which is about two English miles from Stuttgard; but his excellency having the kindness to send his carriage, and being again accompanied by M. Hertz, we soon arrived there, and again met with M. Bosch.

This palace is a magnificent building, placed on a fine situation, commanding beautiful views of the Swabian Alps, also of Carstadt, where there are found buildings of the Romans, and large pieces of fossils, particularly of the mammoth. The Necker also forms a fine feature from this palace.

The grounds are very extensive, and the drives and walks well kept; the ground is now formed into beautiful sloping turf, which I understood was formerly in a very unlevel and rough state. It is beautifully diversified with various fine drives, which I could not but admire, being destitute of the fantastic twists, that are so often thrown in without the the least meaning.

At present the grounds around this palace have rather a naked appearance, for want of trees and shrubs, but this defect M. Bosch is rapidly removing, so that a few years will produce a very different effect; much difficulty is however experienced in getting the trees established, owing to the high elevation of the ground, and the general droughts in summer. At Rosenstein, I saw one of the most complete vineyards that I ever met with, formed on the slope of a hill, with wooden trellisses, so constructed as to have the greatest degree of the sun's rays, at that season when the fruit requires it most. These trellisses are arranged about six feet apart each other, and are formed thus, △, so that the vines are laid on an inclined plane, and the fruit appearing on all sides, have really a delightful effect. The trellis is five feet high, and six feet wide at bottom, and the whole constructed something like a parabola, and continued along the slope of ground in a curved line. I did not observe the vine in such a prolific state any where else, and the whole looked remarkably neat. At a considerable distance from the palace, some very extensive fruit terraces were forming on the slope of a hill, near the town of Carstadt; nearly two hundred men were busily employed blasting rock, and forming the terraces, which are intended for the vine, fig, peach, apricot, &c., and from the fine sheltered situation in which they are placed, I imagine the success will be fully equal to their expectations. On approaching these terraces I was at first surprised to observe the workmen surrounded by a number of soldiers, who were stationed at different parts, throughout them. I however soon observed that this precaution was necessary, as many of the workmen so employed, were convicts, and heavily loaded with chains round their legs. I walked over a great part of these extensive grounds, and was much pleased with the different objects I saw, and improvements proceeding with.

Sept. 12th. Started this morning, for Hohenheim palace, which is situated about six English miles from Stuttgard; it is now occupied as an agricultural establishment, and has attached to it a thousand acres of ground, devoted to agricultural experiments. I was much gratified by seeing the granary of seeds, consisting of a great variety of the different kinds used in husbandry, which was said to amount to five hundred sorts. The stock of cattle and sheep, is very fine and extensive. The repository of agricultural implements contains the various instruments used in farming, from every known country, and are all kept in excellent order.

The different domestic apartments in the palace, are occupied by numerous pupils, who congregate here from all parts of Germany. I was happy to learn that the produce of the establishment was sufficient to meet all the expences, attending its cultivation. In the pleasure ground, or rather nursery, a great quantity of the more common sorts of shrubs is cultivated. I observed a fine tree covered with fruit of the Prunus cirrhifera, an excellent plum, quite round, and of a purple colour. I also saw a fine specimen of the Tilia alba, that was planted by Duke Charles the Fraxinus juglandifolia, was a particularly noble plant, as well as the Quercus macrocarpa, and various other species of this genus. There are about sixty arpents of ground here, under young fruit tree cultivation, which are grown for sale.

During the time that Duke Charles resided at Hohenheim, the gardens were much celebrated, and attracted numerous visitors from all parts of Germany. There is a fine piece of ground called the English garden, that was much admired, but now we have only the forlorn remains of it left. At the front of the palace, are still several of the old flower beds, and the balustrade wall, which forms a fine sweep, at the principal or entrance front. It was in Duke Charles's time well stocked with orange trees, but none are now in existence. The ground falls considerably, towards the south, from the palace, and when under garden cultivation, it must have had a very pretty effect. The view from the windows, over a small town called Boblingen, and the surrounding scenery, is very fine, the Swabian Alps appearing in the distance. I should imagine Hohenheim palace, about sixty years ago, must have been one of the most magnificent in Wurtemberg, but the apartments are rapidly going to decay. The new road lately formed near to Stuttgard, winding through the vineyard plantations, with their numerous small huts or watch boxes, has also a very pretty effect, although rather fatiguing from its steep ascent.

On my return from Hohenheim, I again called on Mr. Koster, the British secretary of legation, who accompanied me to the house of M. de Kerner, where I saw eighty-three volumes of the splendid Botanical work, executed by the late M. de Kerner, which consists of above one thousand drawings of the various fruits, and other exotic flowering plants, which are undoubtedly exquisite specimens of that gentleman's abilities as a draughtsman. These volumes were only purchased by the royal libraries of Vienna, St. Petersburg, Munich, Stuttgard, and Copenhagen, at a price of seventeen hundred pounds; only six or seven copies were executed, one of which is still on hand, in the possession of M. de Kerner. After again procuring my passport, I started about eight o'clock in the evening, for Carlsruhe, where I arrived at five the next morning.

Sept. 13th. On my arrival I found that the diligence would start in the course of twenty minutes for Baden. I started by it, and arrived there at ten o'clock. His Excellency Lord George William Russell, kindly gave me a note of introduction to Sir John Frost, the late secretary of the Medico-Botanical Society of London, who was then residing at Baden, and practising as a physician. This gentleman furnished me with several notes of introduction, to some of his Botanical friends, and also kindly shewed me the different objects of interest about the town; amongst which was the fountain of mineral-water, so much celebrated, for various diseases. It is of a very high temperature; so much so, that I was unable to drink a glass of it, without first letting it cool; from the appearance of the fountain, one would imagine that a strong fire was burning under it. From the baths we proceeded to the castle garden, and from hence, a considerable way up the hill, where is a most delightful prospect of the town, and its very romantic scenery. The old castle forms a prominent object of attraction, which, with the tremendous precipices of rock, and plantations, render this spot the most picturesque that I had previously met with on my tour through Germany.

An excellent promenade, called the English garden, with neatly kept walks and pieces of lawn, is much frequented by the inhabitants and visitors. Situated in the promenade is a magnificent building called the "Conversation House," with numerous orange trees arranged in front of it.

In the interior, I was much surprised to see in a very capacious room, splendidly furnished, a large concourse of ladies and gentlemen, during Sunday, very busy at the gambling tables; in fact the ladies appeared to be fully as expert gamblers as the gentlemen. I also made a visit to the convent, where two skeletons of saints decorated with numerous pearls, rings, and other costly ornaments are exhibited; the skull and teeth appeared to be in pretty good preservation, but these superstitious decorations, so perfectly incongruous, might be well dispensed with. The number of strangers calculated to have visited Baden, during the season of 1835, are said to have amounted to thirteen thousand. The scenery for a great part of the way from Carlsruhe to Baden, is considerably varied, and the old castle of Eberstein appearing on an eminence, with well planted hills, forms a lively contrast. We also passed through a handsome town called Rastadt, situated on the river Murg, where a palace, belonging to the grand duke of Baden, appears conspicuous from the road.

Sept. 14th. I called this morning on Mr. Kennedy (brother to the Marquess of Ailsa,) and delivered to him a note of introduction that I received from Lord G. W. Russell. Mr. Kennedy very kindly accompanied me to the Botanic Garden, and introduced me to M. Held, the gardener, a very intelligent man; here the enormous height that the Melaleuca stipulacea had attained, which was nearly forty feet, is truly astonishing. Various other Melaleucas and Banksias were nearly as high; the Dracæna Draco (Dragon-tree,) was about twenty feet in height; and the Pomaderis apetala almost thirty feet. In this garden are various ranges of houses for the cultivation of tropical and other green-house plants, which are extensively cultivated. The houses have all dark roofs, with glass only in front; yet the greater part of their inmates looked very healthy, particularly the greenhouse plants; but these had the advantage of being exposed to the weather during the summer months. Various pits were also in this establishment for the growth and protection of the half-hardy species. The Succulentæ are extensively cultivated; there are nearly one hundred and forty species of Mesembryanthemums, and about one hundred different kinds of Aloes, besides a pretty good collection of the Cacteæ. The Rhododendron and Azalea, are cultivated out of doors, which is rarely the case in any other garden in Germany.

The herbaceous ground is formed into oblong squares, and these again divided into narrow beds, which are well stocked with a great variety of hardy flowering perennials. The whole of this botanical department was remarkably neat and clean, having, it is understood, been much improved since M. Held was appointed. It appeared to me, however, to be much too crowded with these heavy looking houses, which are too numerous for a space of ground, undoubtedly too contracted and confined for such a collection of plants.

The park, or pleasure-ground, adjoins the garden, and although of a dull flat surface, yet it contains many very fine specimens of ornamental trees and shrubs. I observed, for instance, the Salisburia adiantifolia, sixty feet high, and several very large tulip trees, and the Sophora Japonica; a fine specimen of the Acer dasycarpum, measured no less than a space of ground of twenty yards regular diameter. I was much pleased with a small flower garden, close to the palace windows, which was well stocked with flowers in full bloom. The grounds are laid out with numerous avenues radiating from the palace, which extend in a straight line for a considerable distance; I reckoned twenty-seven of these avenues, which had certainly rather an imposing effect, and various walks and rides that branch off through the grounds in different directions. There is also an extensive piece of ground enclosed with a high wall, occupied as a nursery, and well stocked with various hardy species of trees and shrubs. The front of the palace, next Carlsruhe, was ornamented with large orange trees. The orangery was a large building, the front of which was well covered with grape-vines in a prolific state.

Sept. 15th. Left Carlsruhe at six o'clock, a.m. for Heidelberg, passing through a fine fertile country, chiefly occupied with green crops. The mangel wurtzel, Indian corn, and fine crops of tobacco, are cultivated here, as well as in many other parts of Germany. Arrived at Heidelberg at eleven o'clock, and proceeded to the Botanic Garden, which has been only recently established, and contains a neat range of hot-houses, about one hundred and sixty feet long, besides a large sized pit in front of the range, one hundred feet long. This garden, although small, is pleasantly situated, and well arranged. In the centre is an oblong piece of water, the banks around which are considerably elevated, and planted with standard fruit trees, such as peaches, apricots, plums, and pears. The garden forms an oblong square, with a range of hot-houses and gardener's house at the north end, close to the Heidelberg Gate. These hothouses were the best and neatest-built that I had met with in Germany, and contain a pretty fair collection of plants, with some very fine species of Cacteæ. Along by the east side of the garden is an avenue of very fine specimens of the Robinia inermis, which is also continued along the south side of the town for a considerable distance.

I next proceeded to Schwetzingen, another magnificent establishment, belonging to the Grand Duke of Baden. The palace and gardens are situated about five English miles from Heidelberg, and are unquestionably well worth the stranger's visit. In the approach to them by an arch-way at the palace, we have a view of a large circular piece of ground, divided into various divisions, in which are cultivated a good collection of flowering plants; there are also in this spot a number of fine orange trees, arranged along the edges of broad gravel walks; several of them forming a straight avenue, extending in various directions. The centre walk or avenue, leading from the palace, is terminated by an extensive sheet of water, where is placed a fine group of sculpture, as well as another at the commencement of the avenue, at the end of the grass, next to the circular piece of ground, where the orange trees are arranged. On each side of this principal avenue is situated an oblong piece of ground, laid out in the French style of gardening, with numerous straight walks, and circular spaces at their junctions. The exterior of the ground, and that by the lake, is laid out in the English style, and consists of various clumps of trees; and the very fine irregular sheet of water has really a very good effect.

I was much pleased with a very fine ruin, which is ascended by steps to a very considerable height, from whence is a delightful prospect of the gardens and adjoining scenery. The Temple of Apollo, with the stupendous blocks of rock, and the water dashing against them, is another object deserving of notice. The Temple of Minerva is also a very pretty erection. A Roman aqueduct forms a very prominent object of attraction, but at this season of the year it appeared to be but indifferently supplied with water, which might be occasioned by the long and universal drought. A Temple Botanique, and a very handsome Kiosk, formed objects of interest and ornaments to the garden. An extensive arched trellising covered with creepers also attracted my notice: in it were numerous arborial openings on both sides.

The collection of Cape and New Holland plants is pretty extensive, and numerous species of the Genus Erica are also cultivated. In the kitchen garden various pyramidal-formed pear trees are grown; and the hothouses are of a better description than are usually to be met with in Germany; the south-side glass, and the back opaque, with span roofs. The pine-apples here were the best that I had previously met with during my tour in Germany. To give an accurate description of the various objects of interest that are to be seen in these grounds would require one well acquainted with the premises, and several days' actual residence on the spot. The orange houses are substantial built houses, with dark roofs, and the collection of trees, from their appearance, from four to five hundred, which were in a healthy state.

Having a letter of introduction from Sir John Frost and M. Kilter from the neighbourhood of Vienna (who visited Woburn Abbey last summer) to the principal director, I experienced the greatest attention from him; the greatest pains were taken in pointing out to me every thing worthy of notice.

Returned to Heidelberg, and visited the ruins of an old castle, situated on the face of a hill overlooking the town, and the river Necker, and surrounded by high hills well planted, which form an eminence considerably above the castle, where there is a platform or resting place: the view of the extent of country and its romantic scenery is really grand. On the top of two of these hills are high towers, the prospect from which must be still more extensive. On approaching the old castle, I was agreeably surprised to observe some fine walks, with a collection of trees or arboretum, with printed labels attached to them, and the ground in good order. From this we still continued to descend to the old castle, which, even in its present state, must strike the stranger with regret that such a magnificent building should have been permitted to go to decay, particularly as the stone work appears in a good state of preservation. The prospect from the terrace, on the north-side of the castle, is really grand, commanding the circuitous course of the Necker, the lofty and undulating hills on each side, which I imagine must be elevated at least two thousand feet above the level of the site of the castle.

In the interior of the building is the celebrated Heidelberg tun, which was formerly used in making the Rhenish wine, with the great machine that was in use for that purpose, and from its size the quantity made daily must have been very great; near to it stands a figure of one of the wine makers, who was in the habit of drinking fifteen bottles every day. The approach of night prevented me from inspecting the interior of this old castle so minutely as I could have wished. Descending from a hill considerably elevated above this building, I passed through a grove of fine trees (sweet chesnuts) all in full bearing.

The country and romantic scenery in the vicinity of Heidelberg pleased me more than anything of the kind I had previously met with.

Sept. 19th. Left Heidelberg at six o'clock a. m. for Frankfort, the road winding along the river Necker, for a considerable distance, through a flat country to the left; but the high hills on the right as we passed from this to Darmstadt formed a pleasing contrast. The scenery for the first ten or twelve miles is very picturesque, from the high undulating hills, having numerous old romantic castellated ruins on their summits, or commanding points, which form prominent features of attraction. These hills are likewise well planted with forest trees; and large tracts are under vineyard culture.

Arrived at Darmstadt at half-past one o'clock. I was much pleased with the cleanliness and elevated situation of this town, which is said to contain above twenty thousand inhabitants; the houses are handsomely built, the streets wide, and in good proportion to the height and size of the houses; they have also flag pavements, which is a rarity in Germany. The opera-house is a splendid building, as well as the cathedral. The palace is also a fine old building, and has attached to it an extensive pleasure ground and kitchen garden.

Having but a very short time to stop here I made but a hasty visit through the gardens. The kitchen garden walls were well stocked with trees in full bearing, and large crops of vegetables appeared to be extensively cultivated: from thence I went to the extremity of the grounds, near which is a small herbaceous ground, with a good collection of plants in it, but I observed but little in the ornamental way in the arboretum department.

About the centre is prettily formed, although dirty, a sheet of water, with a fanciful boat, for passing to and from a small island in the centre. The grounds are very flat and not varied, but possess numerous walks and rides which are frequented by the inhabitants.