Journal of a Horticultural Tour through Germany, Belgium, and part of France, in the Autumn of 1835

We arrived at Cambray at two o'clock, a strong fortified town. The country from Brussells hitherto appeared to be but very thinly planted, and of little picturesque scenery: as we approached Paris there appeared very few plantations or trees worthy of notice, and much less variety of scenery than I passed through in the latter part of my tour through Germany.

Oct. 5th. Arrived at Paris at half-past ten o'clock, a.m. after a ride of twenty-four hours. On my arrival I proceeded to the Gardens of the Tuilleries, where there is a large collection of orange trees, and several capacious gravel walks, or avenues, with numerous ornamental groups of sculpture. A space of ground, running parallel to the palace, about sixty yards wide, has been lately laid out with flower borders, and is separated from the public promenade by a grass ha-ha, with a slight wire fence on the top of it; in this inclosure are some very fine orange trees, bronze figures, and ornamental sculpture, arranged along the edges of the walks.

A very fine walk leads from the palace towards a piece of water at the entrance from the Place Louis XV., where there are various groups of sculpture and terrace walks, which have a very imposing effect. The walks and flower borders in the promenade were in very neat order, and the triangular pieces of grass not so roughly kept as some I had previously seen about the seats of royalty. The walk or road leading from the Place Louis XV. to the magnificent arch now nearly completed on the rising ground near to the Barrier Neuilly, has a fine effect, and the prospect from this arch, which is much elevated above the town, is very grand.

Oct. 6th. This morning I proceeded to the seed establishment of Messrs. Andrieux and Vilmorin, to whom I had a letter of introduction from Mr. Lawson, of Edinburgh; these gentlemen very kindly furnished me with a note of the various gardens and objects most worthy of notice.

I then proceeded to the Jardin des Plantes, where I was much gratified with numerous fine specimens from all quarters of the globe. Mr. W. Douglas, a young man lately sent to this garden from Chatsworth by the Duke of Devonshire, conducted me through the various departments. I was much pleased with the elegant appearance of two very fine houses that were then nearly completed, one of which was just receiving the plants.

These houses are seventy-two feet long each by forty-two feet wide, and about fifty feet high; the space where the tubes stand is sunk about six feet under the floor or foot-path level, so that the whole of the tubs, boxes, and pots may be concealed, and the plants have the appearance of being planted out in the border. There is a very handsome marble cistern about the centre of the house for supplying the plants with water. These houses consist of a double span roof, are constructed with iron bars, and heated by steam; the under-ground work is very judiciously arranged: it appeared from the excavations that were here proceeding, that the range of glass was to extend to the Galerie d' Histoire Naturelle. There are numerous other hothouses on different elevations well stocked with healthy plants, one of which is devoted to Succulentæ, where I observed several fine specimens of Cacteæ. The curvilinear iron bar appeared to be the favourite material used for the erection of plant-houses in this establishment, which must evidently be the most economical and substantial for large houses. I observed this bar used in various parts of Belgium and Germany, where they apprehended no fear of the breakage of glass by expansion or contraction, although the frost is much more intense in those countries than in this.

I here saw a very fine plant of the Araucaria Cunninghamia, which appeared to be from nine to ten feet high, beautifully feathered from the pot to the top. The Araucariæ excelsæ were tall plants, but evidently drawn up, and had been too much confined, as they were not feathered equal to the specimens at Baron Rothschild's and at Prince de Ligne's. The ground in this far-famed Jardin des Plantes appeared to be too contracted for the various purposes that it is devoted to. An enclosed apartment is under a nursery of trees and shrubs, another for hardy herbaceous plants, and one planted with a collection of the various fruits, particularly of pears, in beds about four or five feet wide, with four feet in width of paths between them; these beds were covered with short dung, to prevent the roots of the trees from becoming too dry. The fruit was, unfortunately, all gathered, so that I had not the pleasure of seeing the various sorts that are here cultivated: nearly adjoining to the fruit tree department is the zoological establishment, with a very numerous collection of animals. The museum of natural history is situated at the extremity of the new range of hothouses; the collection of birds, minerals, quadrupeds, shells, &c. is really astonishing: there are also numerous specimens of Fungi preserved in one of the departments.

I next visited the nursery garden of M. Noisette, which is well stocked with Camellias and stove plants; the former had numerous seed vessels perfecting on them. The small low hothouses are in a very dilapidated condition, and the plants in a crowded state for want of more room; although there is a great extent of glass, such as it is. The grounds are likewise crowded with fir trees, which were evidently planted for shelter and shade from the effects of the sun, but they give the ground a cheerless and contracted appearance.

I next proceeded to the vegetable garden of M. de Coufle, which is considered amongst the best in the neighbourhood of Paris for culinary forcing, but I saw but very little in it at this season of the year at all worthy of a visit.

At a short distance from the latter is the garden of Prince D'Esling; the neatness of this little spot, which was very gay with dahlias and other autumnal flowers, was very pleasing. There is also cultivated here a very extensive collection of pine-apples evidently for sale, as at this season of the year, there must have been nearly two hundred fruit, and some thousands of young plants, which for health and well-swelled fruit were but little inferior to any in England. The largest fruit was grown in a low span-roofed house, and planted out into the beds into a mixture of sandy peat; the house was six feet six inches high, with a foot path in the centre, and the beds for plants along each side. The succession pines are grown in wooden frames with dung linings around them, and were in great vigour of health. The Providence and Montsserats were extensively cultivated. A very complete stove for exotic plants is also here. The Aristolochia Braziliensis was beautifully in flower, and the other plants in a very healthy state.

I next visited the Pantheon, a noble edifice, with magnificent architectural columns, and cornice: it is reckoned one of the finest erections in Paris.

Oct. 7th. Went at six o'clock this morning to see the fruit and vegetable market: the display of pears, grapes, and wallnuts was very fine, there were also a number of peaches, but these were rather of an inferior size to those grown on the open walls in England. The fruit market was really so crowded with baskets of pears and women that it was with much difficulty that I could pass through it: there was an abundant display of vegetables. Cardoons were now brought to market, and a few bunches of small asparagus; celery appeared in great abundance and of good quality; various baskets of the Alpine strawberry and a few pretty good looking melons were also to be had.

I started at eight o'clock for Versailles, passing through a beautiful part of the country, well planted with numerous handsomely erected villas, and the road winding along for a considerable distance by the river Seine.

On my arrival I proceeded to the gardens, where I was quite astonished at the extent of these magnificent grounds; there were numerous groups of sculpture and bronze, and fountains ornamented with various figures, such as sea monsters, dolphins, &c. which spout the water into the basons, the effect of which, when the water-works are playing, must be grand in the extreme.

The various terraces, parterres, and avenues, the latter leading in every direction, with their beautiful groups of sculpture, are very grand.

Under the south terrace is situated the orangery, and from the terrace walk we look down upon at least several hundred magnificent trees, which for number and vigour of health, were undoubtedly surpassed by none that I had previously met with on the continent; I am, however, inclined to think that there were some at Sans-souci fully as large.

The orange-houses are all formed under the south terrace, and appear like arched cellars, with only glass windows in front; I could perceive no means of applying artificial heat, but the windows were furnished with shutters, which appeared to be the only protection they had against frost; they were busy at this time removing trees to their winter quarters.

From the orangery I proceeded through various other parts of the grounds, and also to the Grand Trianon, which is situated about two English miles from the palace of Versailles; the grounds attached to it are laid out according to the English style of gardening, with fine pieces of water, rock-work, temples, and rustic erections. They contain a fine assortment of hardy trees and shrubs, planted on the grass, which gave it the appearance of an arboretum, but there seemed to be no regular arrangement of the plants. There is a green-house attached to these grounds, and a good show of autumnal flowers in front of it, such as dahlias and other annuals. The gardener was not at home. On my return from the garden I took another route through the grounds attached to Versailles; but to attempt to describe them would have required much longer time than my cursory visit would permit, or to enumerate the different objects of interest and magnificence that are dispersed throughout them. I then visited the kitchen garden department, which consists of an extensive piece of ground, subdivided into numerous divisions by walls, on which are trained vines and peaches; the Fontainbleau grape appeared to ripen and swell its fruit remarkably well, and was very abundant in its production; it seemed to be more generally cultivated than any other sort; in front of the vine-wall it is also grown to a trellising, and produced very fine fruit considering its being grown out of doors. In one of the compartments devoted to the peach trees I observed the Royale peach extending over a space of wall forty-two feet long, and from eighteen to twenty feet high; it was in excellent health, and regularly furnished with fine bearing shoots. In another compartment is a collection of standard pear trees.

The forcing ground contains numerous low houses and pits for the growth of the pine, vine, and peach. The pine-apple in this establishment was remarkably well grown and fine fruit, and little if any inferior to those that I have seen. The fruiting plants were also planted out into beds in light sandy peat soil, which evidently suited them well. The succession pines at this time were undergoing a shifting and disrooting, – a practice not generally adopted at this season in England.

Vegetables are extensively cultivated in the gardens, and a good collection of the hardy fruits, which were all gathered by this time, consequently I had not the pleasure of seeing the quality or produce from the different trees.

On my return to Paris I visited the Luxemburg Gardens, which contain some fine old orange trees and Nerium oleanders, arranged on the side of the walks; the grass-plats are surrounded by flowerbeds and various avenues of horse chesnuts, ornamented by sculpture, which lead in different directions, forming a pleasant promenade.

Oct. 8th. This morning I proceeded to M. Boursalt's, who was then residing out of town; his collection of plants was formerly very celebrated, but he has lately disposed of the greater part of them, and an extensive range of plant houses: there being now only two small flower houses left, which contained some fine specimens of Camellias, and some beautiful marble statues. The Noisette and Chinese roses were in great beauty, as well as some fine Magnolias. This spot of ground, although apparently not above two acres in extent, is prettily varied with rock-work, water, and artificial banks.

From hence I visited the Burying-ground at Montmartre, which is thickly planted with trees and shrubs. I then proceeded to the Louvre, where I was much gratified by the magnificence of the gallery of paintings, as well as the incomparable marbles.

I next visited the cemetry of Père la Chaise, which is an extensive piece of ground, with numerous walks leading through it, and the different tombs enclosed by the upright cyprus, thujas, and other shrubs. On my arrival a funeral service was performing in a small chapel, situated about the centre of the ground, and which was then lit up by candles. After taking a cursory view of this cemetry I made the best of my way to Montreuil, to see the celebrated peach-tree gardens; on my approach to it, I was surprised at the extent of white walls in this part of the country, which were all chiefly covered with peach trees and grape vines. After ascertaining that the most celebrated garden at Montreuil belonged to the Préfet, and was situated at the top of the hill, I made the best of my way to this spot; I found the owner a good practical gardener. He took great pains in pointing out to me his method of pruning and training his peach trees: the English gardener, however, has nothing to learn in France in the management of the peach tree; in fact, we can hardly enter into a garden in England that we cannot find trees more tastefully trained, and fully as well furnished from the bottom of the wall to the extremity of the tree, as any that I met with in the neighbourhood of Paris. The peaches on the walls in this country are much larger than any in France or Belgium, although the soil and climate in these countries are more congenial to the growth of this tree, and maturity of its fruit, than our more northern atmosphere.

The roots of the peach tree and vines were all covered this season with half rotten dung, for the space of from three to four feet from the wall, which kept the roots in a moist state; the walls generally averaged from eight to nine feet in height, and were well sheltered by the number of cross walls that were in the different gardens. I visited one or two other gardens in the vicinity of the Préfet's, but they appeared very similar to the one already described.

On my return from Montreuil I made a cursory visit to two small nurseries, which attracted my attention by the quantity of large orange trees exhibited for sale, and were to be sold at a very trifling sum in comparison to what they cost in England.

I also made a hasty visit through Messrs. Vilmorin and Andreux' seed ground, where there was a large stock of annuals growing for seed, and a good collection of hardy perennial plants.

Oct. 9th. Started for the Vitry nurseries, which are about six miles from Paris; the extent of nursery ground under fruit-tree cultivation in this part of the country extends nearly five miles in length, and the number of nurseries amount to about two hundred. The Paris markets are principally supplied from this part of the country. M. Chatenay is considered the most extensive grower in that line, and has certainly a fine collection of peach trees and other hardy fruits, which were in a very healthy moveable condition, as also numerous fine standard rose trees, these being out of flower I was unable to judge of their merits. The prices of the fruit trees were very little less than in the London nurseries for similar sized trees. I observed but little new in ornamental trees or shrubs, these nurseries being chiefly devoted to the culture of fruit trees, the soil being peculiarly adapted thereto, being a rich reddish loam, yet it was in some cases undergoing a strong manure and fallow. A portion of what was previously occupied by nursery stock was under the plough. M. Chatenay informed me that they found great difficulty in procuring a suitable soil for their different fruit trees. I did not observe any hothouses about Vitry for tender plants. The nursery grounds extend as far as Choisey, over a large tract of beautiful ground. I saw large crops of grapes which were used in making the wine, which is produced in considerable quantities at Vitry.

On my return from these nurseries I proceeded to the nursery establishment of M. Cels, which contains a fine collection of stove and greenhouse plants, as well as many rare and hardy species; in short the collection here is more choice than extensive, and the plants were very well grown. There are several hothouses and low pits well stocked with good plants, and a range of new houses then building. This nursery is considered to contain the best collection of plants about Paris; the extent of ground is but limited, and not very well kept.

I next desired my guide to conduct me to the flower market, when, after a considerable walk, I found myself in the flour market, which was well stocked with sacks of flour and grain. I was, however, much pleased with the fine circular building, with lofty dome, and the quantity of grain it contained. I then proceeded to the real flower market, which was held this afternoon at the Magdalen, a most magnificent building. The quantity of flowers fell far short of my expectation: the Neapolitan violet and the more common sorts of autumnal flowers were the principal stock exposed for sale this day.

Left Paris at seven o'clock in the evening for Rouen, where I arrived on the morning of the 10th, about ten o'clock. I immediately proceeded to the nursery garden of Mr. Calvert, where I found an extensive range of hothouses rapidly falling into a state of dilapidation for want of paint and other repairs. The nursery ground was also principally in a waste state, except a part in which dahlias were cultivated, and which were certainly very fine, containing both the French and English collections. Mr. Calvert's son informed me that his father was then clearing the ground of the stock with the intention of removing it to England, where he intended commencing the nursery business.

I was also informed that the Rouen Botanic Garden was contemplated to be formed on the site of this nursery, which is unquestionably a fine situation for it.

I then visited the nursery of M. Vallet, which contains a large quantity of very fine orange trees, that he was very anxious to dispose of at £10 per tree. There is likewise a good collection of greenhouse plants and hardy shrubs, as well as standard roses; the latter M. Vallet frequently brings to England to be disposed of in the London markets.

I next proceeded to the Botanic Garden, which appeared to contain about an English acre of ground, with two or three old hothouses for plants, with but a limited stock in them. There appeared to be a pretty good collection of hardy perennials and annuals, but few shrubs, or ornamental trees.

I then made the best of my way to M. Prevost's nursery, which is undoubtedly the most extensive and contains the best collection of plants about Rouen. The quantity of standard roses cultivated in this nursery is immense; a priced catalogue of them has been lately printed, the prices specified in it are very moderate. The blood peach was here with plenty of fruit on it, but it evidently will not get soft or fit for use in the open air. I also observed several other ornamental trees in this establishment; it was likewise well stocked with a large assortment of fruit trees.

The scenery about Rouen is very beautiful and picturesque, and is varied by some large white chalk hills: the river, with numerous small vessels, tends greatly to enliven the scene.

Oct. 11th. Went to see the ancient cathedral, said to have been commenced by William the Conqueror. I was much pleased with its fine Gothic appearance, as well as with the paintings, stained glass, and other ornaments. There is another church in this town, called St. Ouen, deserving of the stranger's notice, which appeared to me but little inferior to the cathedral. The Palais de Justice is also a curious old building.

Left Rouen at eleven o'clock for Dieppe, where we arrived at five in the evening, passing through a fine varied country, richly clothed with fruit trees and agricultural produce, which appeared to be in a very flourishing state.

Oct. 12th. Being confined all this day at Dieppe by contrary winds I made an excursion round the vicinity of the town, which is very picturesque and considerably varied, I also visited the nursery garden of M. Racine, which contained a very fine collection of dahlias, standard roses, a fine assortment of pears, and other hardy plants; and a small greenhouse, in which a few good Cacteæ, and other showy plants, were cultivated and in good order.

The cathedral in Dieppe is an ancient building, and worth the notice of the stranger.

Oct. 13th. Left Dieppe at two o'clock in the morning for Brighton, when we experienced a pretty tossing for the space of twenty-five hours, in consequence of contrary winds. The passage is generally performed in ten or eleven hours when the weather is favourable.

Oct. 14th. We arrived about three o'clock this morning at Shoreham, a small port, about three miles from Brighton: as soon as day dawned I made an excursion through the town, and got my luggage ready by ten o'clock, when I started for London, where I arrived at five in the afternoon.

Upon the whole, in regard to the general state of Horticulture in the countries which I visited, the following conclusion must be drawn: The plants in the hothouses are in most of the establishments kept in excellent order and in a healthy state; the Succulentæ also appeared to be much more extensively cultivated than they have hitherto been in England; But the general order and neatness of the grounds (with only a very few exceptions) were but little attended to. Nor did they appear to me to well understand the forcing of fruits, except in one or two places in France; neither did I perceive that nicety in the training of fruit trees that is thought indispensable in this country. Vegetables are, however, in large establishments, more extensively grown; but there certainly did not appear to be such a general spirit for horticultural improvement as is now prevailing in this country. At no period was gardening and the collecting of plants ever pursued with greater spirit in England than at this moment; insomuch, that we can scarcely visit a nobleman or gentleman's gardens without observing very extensive improvements and alterations proceeding in every direction. And this we cannot but regard as an indication of application and attachment to rural improvements highly honourable to our nobility and gentry, as superseding many of those pursuits that used to prevail to a great extent with gentlemen residing in the country, which had but little tendency to the improvement of their grounds or estates.

APPENDIX

The Cacteæ have not hitherto obtained in this country that attention which is paid to them on the continent, where certainly a greater number of fine specimens are to be found of this interesting genus than is to be seen in our collections.

Mr. Hitchen of Norwich devoted much attention to their cultivation, and certainly had formed the best collection at that time in England. Being under the necessity of breaking up his establishment, he disposed of his Cacteæ and other succulent plants to Mr. Mackie, Nurseryman, of Norwich, from whom the Duke of Bedford purchased a considerable number in the spring of 1834. Since that period His Grace's collection has been increased by the liberality of several continental collectors during my tour; and I feel it but justice more particularly to mention M. Otto, of Berlin, who contributed many valuable species, and M. Lehmann, of Dresden, from whom I have also received about two hundred. M. Seitz of Munich, M. Bosch of Stuttgard, Mr. Booth, of Flottbeck Nursery, Hamburgh, and Professor Lehmann, as well as the Curators of the Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Dublin College Botanic Gardens, have added greatly to the collection; and with some recent acquisitions from Mr. Tweedie, of Buenos Ayres, obtained through the intervention of Lord Edward Russell, have now rendered this collection superior to any one existing in this country, and little inferior to any on the continent.

The cultivation of the Cacteæ possesses considerable advantage over most of the hothouse plants, requiring little room, a matter in general of considerable importance where space is necessarily limited. They will also flourish and flower in a lower temperature than most other hothouse plants: most of the species will not require to be kept in a higher degree of heat than from 45° to 50°; some of the South American species, however, succeed best in a higher temperature. They should be kept rather in a dry state, and water used but sparingly, as these plants are very impatient of wet. The houses most suitable for the cultivation of this singular tribe should be so glazed as to effectually exclude the intrusion of water. In the extensive range of plant-houses now erecting at Woburn Abbey, one is intended to be exclusively devoted to the cultivation of Cacteæ. The soil most suitable for their growth is a mixture of sandy-peat, leaf-mould and lime rubbish, well incorporated together.

The annexed List enumerates the different species now in cultivation at Woburn Abbey.

ICOSANDRIA MONOGYNIA

CACTEÆ, DC