Fragments of Earth Lore: Sketches & Addresses Geological and Geographical

Vatersey, Saundry, Papey, Miuley, and Bearnarey, are all equally well glaciated; but as they show little or no low-ground with gentle slopes, they have preserved few traces of sub-glacial débris. In this respect they resemble the rockier and hillier parts of the large islands to the north. Till, however, is occasionally met with, as for example on the low shores of Vatersey Bay, and on the southern margin of Miuley. Doubtless, if it were carefully looked for it would be found sheltering in patches in many nooks and hollows, protected from the grind of the ice that advanced from the south-east. I saw it in several such places in the islet of Bearnarey, where the striæ indicated an ice-flow as usual towards the north-west.

We have now seen that the whole of the Long Island has been ground, and rubbed, and scraped by land- or glacier-ice which has traversed the ground in a prevalent south-east and north-west direction. We have seen also that this ice attained so great a thickness that it was able to overflow all the hills up to a height of 1600 feet above the sea. It is needless to say that such a mass could not have been nurtured on the islands themselves. They have no gathering grounds of sufficient extent, and if they had, the ice would not have taken the peculiar direction it did. Instead of flowing across the islands it would have radiated outwards from the mountain-valleys. Where, then, did the ice come from?

Looking across the Minch we see Skye and the mountains of the north-west Highlands, and those regions, as we know, have also been subjected to extreme glaciation. From the appearances presented by the mountains of Ross-shire we are compelled to believe that all that region was buried in ice up to a height of not less than 3000 feet – the ice-sheet was probably even as much as 3500 feet in thickness. The evidence shows that the under portion of this vast ice-sheet flowed slowly off the country into the Minch by way of the great sea-lochs. Thus we know that an enormous mass crept down Loch Carron and united with another great stream stealing out from the mountains of Skye, to flow north through the hollows of Raasay Sound and the Inner Sound into the Minch. So deep was the ice that it completely smothered the island of Raasay (1272 feet high) and overflowed all the lofty trappean table-lands of Skye. From the Coolins, as a centre-point, another movement of the ice-sheet was towards the south-west, against the islands of Rum, Cannay, and Eigg. Further north similar vast masses of ice streamed out into the Minch, from Loch Torridon, Gairloch, Loch Ewe, and Loch Broom. The direction of the glaciation in the north of Skye, which is towards north-west, shows that the glacier-mass which overflowed that area must eventually have reached the shores of the Long Island. In short, there cannot be a reasonable doubt that the immense sheet of ice that streamed off the north-west Highlands must have filled up entirely the basin of the Minch, and thereafter streamed across the Outer Hebrides. But it may be objected that if the Outer Hebrides were overflowed by ice that streamed from the mainland across the north end of Skye, we ought to get many fragments of Skye rocks and Ross-shire rocks too in the sub-glacial débris or till of Lewis and Harris, and the north end of North Uist. But all such fragments are apparently wanting. True, there are bits of stone like the igneous rocks of Skye often met with in the Hebridean till, but as veins or dykes of precisely the same kind of rock occur in the Long Island itself, we cannot say that the stones referred to are other than native. A little reflection will show us, however, that it is extremely improbable indeed that stones derived from Skye and the mainland should ever have been dragged on under the ice, and deposited amongst the till of the Long Island. There is only one part of the whole Outer Hebrides where we might have anticipated that fragments from the mainland should occur; and there, sure enough, they put in an appearance.

But before I attempt to explain the non-occurrence of Skye rocks in the till of the Outer Hebrides, let me show in a few words what the glaciation of the Long Island, Skye, and the north-west Highlands teaches us as to the general aspect presented by the ice-sheet. The height reached by the surface of the ice in Ross-shire and the Long Island respectively indicates of course that the main movement was from the mainland. We must conceive of an immense sheet of solid ice filling up all the inequalities of the land, obliterating the glens, and sweeping across the hill-tops; and not only so, but occupying the wide basin of the Minch to the entire exclusion of the sea, the surface of the ice rising so high that it overtopped the whole of the Outer Hebrides, and left only the tips of a few of the higher mountains uncovered. The slope of the surface was persistently outwards from the mainland, and the striation of the Long Island indicates clearly that the dip or inclination of that surface was towards the north-west. Nay, more than this, we are now enabled for the first time to say with some approach to certainty what was the precise angle of that inclination. If we take the upper surface of the ice in Ross-shire to have been 3000 feet (and it was not less), then the slope between the mainland and the Outer Hebrides was only 25 feet in the mile, or about 1 in 210. It is quite possible, however, and even probable, that the actual height attained by the ice-sheet in the north-west Highlands was more than 3000 feet. I think it may yet turn out to have been 3500 feet, and if this were so it would give an inclination for the surface of the ice of about 35 feet in the mile. In either case the slope was so very gentle that to the eye it would have appeared like a level plain. Over the surface of this plain would be scattered here and there a solitary big erratic or two, while in other places long trains of large and small angular boulders would stream outwards. All these would be derived from such mountain in Skye and the mainland as were able to keep their heads above the level of the ice-flow; while a few also might be dislodged by the frost and rolled down upon the glacier from the tips of the Clisham and the Langa in Harris, and Hecla and Beinn Mhor in South Uist. Every such block, it is evident, would be carried across the buried Hebrides, out into the Atlantic in the direction indicated by the glaciation of the Long Island – that is, towards the north-west.

But while the upper strata of the ice doubtless followed that particular course, it is obvious that this could not be the case with the under portion of the great sheet, the path of which would be controlled in large measure by the form of the ground over which the ice moved. The upper strata that overflowed the Outer Hebrides, as we have seen, were locally deflected again and again by important obstacles, and it is quite certain that the same would take place with the deeper portions of the ice-flow.

It is well known that the sea along the inner margin of the Long Island is very deep. In many places it reaches a depth of 600 feet, and occasionally the sounding-lead plunges down for upwards of 700 feet. It would seem, however, that these great depths did not exist before the advent of the ice-sheet, but that the bottom of the Minch along the eastern borders of the Long Island was then some 250 or 300 feet shallower than now, the floor of the sea having since been excavated in the manner I shall presently describe. It is quite apparent, therefore, that the long ridge of the Outer Hebrides must have offered an insuperable obstacle to the direct passage of the bottom-ice out to the Atlantic. Here was a great wall of rock shooting up from the floor of the Minch, at a high angle, to a height ranging in elevation from 400 feet to upwards of 3000 feet. It is simply impossible that the lower strata of the ice that occupied the bed of the Minch could climb that precipitous barricade. They were necessarily deflected, one portion creeping to north-east and another to south-west, but both hugging the great wall of rock all the way. We see precisely the same result taking place in the bed of every stream. Let us stand upon an almost submerged boulder, and note how the water is deflected to right and left, and we shall observe at the same time that the boulder, by obstructing the current, forces the water downwards upon the bed of the stream, the result being that a hollow is dug out in front. Now, in a similar manner, the ice, squeezed and pressed against the Hebridean ridge by the steady flow of the great current that crossed the Minch, necessarily acted with intense erosive force upon its bed. Hence in the course of time it scooped out a series of broad deep trenches along the whole inner margin of the Long Island, the amount of the excavation reaching from 200 to 300 feet. Similar excavated basins occur in like positions opposite all the precipitous islands of the Inner Hebrides. Wherever, indeed, the ice-sheet met with any great obstruction to its flow, there excessive erosion took place, and a more or less deep hollow was dug out in front of the opposing cliff, or crag, or precipitous mountain. While, therefore, the upper strata of the ice-sheet overflowed the Outer Hebrides from south-east to north-west, the under portions of the same great ice-flow were compelled by the contour of the ground to creep away to north-east and south-west, until they could steal round the ridge and so escape outwards to the Atlantic.

This being the case, we have a very simple and obvious explanation of the absence of Skye rocks in the till of the Long Island. One sees readily enough that the sub-glacial débris dragged across the Minch would naturally be carried away to south-west and north-east by the “under-tow” or deflected ice. It is quite impossible that any Skye fragments or bits of rock from the mainland could travel over the bed of the Minch, and then be pushed up the precipitous rock wall of the Long Island. There is only one place in all the Outer Hebrides where we might expect to meet with extraneous boulders in the till, and that is in the north of Lewis, where the land shelves gently into the sea, and the great rocky ridge terminates. Here the under-strata of the ice would begin to steal up upon the land, favoured by its gentle inclination, and in that very place accordingly we meet with a deposit of till in which are found many boulders of a hard red sandstone, and some of various porphyries which are quite alien to the Long Island. Moreover, the till itself in that locality is much more of a clay than the usual sub-glacial débris in other parts of Lewis, and contains numerous fragments of sea-shells. All this is quite in keeping with the other evidence. The extreme north end of Lewis was overflowed by the under-current that crept up the bed of the Minch, hugging the Hebridean ridge, and dragging along with it a muddy mass interspersed with the shells and other marine exuviæ that lay in its path, and numerous stones, some of which may have come from Skye, while others were derived from the mainland.

I have already said enough, perhaps, about the abrasion of the Hebrides, but I may add a few words upon the origin of the freshwater lakes. Many of these rest in complete rock-basins; others, again, seem to lie partly upon solid rock and partly upon till; while yet others appear to occupy mere shallow depressions in the surface of the till. All of them thus owe their origin to the action of the ice-sheet. As one might have expected, the great majority lie along the outcrop of the gneissic strata, which, as a rule, corresponds pretty closely to the flow of the ice. Hence the general trend of the lakes is from south-east to north-west. In many cases in fashioning these rock-basins the ice has merely deepened in an irregular manner previously existing hollows, which are now, of course, filled with water. In not a few places, however, the lakes are drawn out in other directions – this being due usually to changes in the strike or outcrop of the strata. For example, over a considerable district in the south of Lewis many lake-hollows extend from south-west to north-east, or at right angles to the direction of the ice-flow. Such lakes are usually dammed up at one or both extremities by glacial débris.

Thus most of the features characteristic of the Outer Hebrides owe their origin directly or indirectly to the action of that great sheet of ice which swept over the islands during what is called the Glacial Period. And there is no region in northern Europe where the immensity of the abrading agent can be more vividly realised. From a study of the phenomena there exhibited we for the first time obtain a definite idea of the surface-slope, and are able to plumb the old ice-sheet, and ascertain with some approach to accuracy its exact thickness. In the deeper parts of the area, between the mainland and the Long Island, its thickness was not less than 3800 feet. Of course this great depth of ice could not have been derived exclusively from the snow that fell on the mountains of the north-west Highlands. Doubtless the precipitation took place over its whole surface, just as is the case in Greenland and over the Antarctic continent. The winter cold must have been excessive, but the precipitation necessary to sustain such a mass of ice implies great evaporation; in other words, the direct heat of the sun per diem in summer-time was probably considerably in excess of what it is now in these latitudes. The west and south-west winds must have been laden with moisture, the greater portion of which would necessarily fall in the form of snow. We see something analogous to this taking place in the Antarctic regions at the present day. That quarter of the globe has its summer in perihelion, and, therefore, must be receiving then more heat per diem than our hemisphere does in its summer season, which, as every one knows, happens when the earth is furthest removed from the sun. But, notwithstanding this, the summer of the Antarctic continent is cold and ungenial – the presence of the great ice-sheet there cooling the air and causing most of the moisture to fall as snow. Paradoxical as it may seem, therefore great summer heat is almost, if not quite, as necessary as excessive winter cold for the production and maintenance of a wide continental glacier.

III

When we last took a peep at the Outer Hebrides we found those luckless islands all but obliterated under an immense sheet of ice extending from the mainland out into the Atlantic. How far west the great glacier spread itself we cannot as yet positively say; but if the known slope of its surface between the north-west Highlands and the Long Island continued, as there is every reason to believe it would, then it is extremely probable that the ice flowed out to the edge of the great Scottish submarine plateau. Here the sudden deepening of the Atlantic would arrest its progress and cause it to break up into icebergs. In those old times, therefore, a steep wall of ice would extend all along the line of what is now the edge of the 100-fathoms plateau. From this wall large tabular masses would ever and anon break away and float off into the Atlantic – a condition of things which is closely paralleled at present along the borders of the ice-drowned Antarctic continent.

By-and-by, however, a great change took place, and the big ice-sheet melted off the Long Island and vanished from the Minch. We read the evidence for this change of climate in certain interesting deposits which occur in considerable bulk at the northern extremity of Lewis, and in smaller patches in the Eye peninsula of the same island. In those districts the old sub-glacial débris or till is covered with beds of clay and sand in which many marine exuviæ are found – shells of molluscs, entomostraca, foraminifera, etc. They clearly prove, then, that after the ice-sheet had vanished Lewis was submerged in the sea to a depth of not less than 200 feet, and they also prove that the temperature of the sea was much the same then as now, for the shells all belong to species that are still living in these northern waters. It is very remarkable that the marine deposits in question seem to occur nowhere else in any part of the Long Island. We cannot believe that the submergence was restricted to the very limited areas where the shell-beds are met with: it must, on the contrary, have affected a very large portion, if not the whole, of the Outer Hebrides. Why, then, do not we meet with shelly sands and clays, with raised beaches and other relics of the former occupation of these islands by the sea, covering wide areas in the low-grounds? How can we explain the absence of such relics from all those districts which, being much under the level of 200 feet, must necessarily have at one time formed part of the sea-floor? The explanation is not difficult to discover.

Resting upon the surface of the shell-beds at Ness and Garabost we find an upper or overlying accumulation of sub-glacial débris or till. At Ness this upper till closely resembles, in general appearance, the lower deposit that rests directly upon the rocks. It is a pell-mell accumulation of silty clay, crammed with glaciated stones, amongst which are many fragments of red sandstone and some extra-Hebridean rocks, and interspersed through it occur also broken fragments of sea-shells. The marine deposits lying below are usually much confused and contorted, and here and there they are even violently commingled with the upper till. They show, generally, a most irregular surface under that accumulation, and are evidently only the wreck of what they must at one time have been. Now the presence of this upper till proves beyond doubt that the intense arctic conditions of climate once more supervened. A big ice-sheet again filled up the basin of the Minch and flowed over the Long Island – its under-tow creeping along the inner margin of the lofty rock-barrier as before, and eventually stealing over the low-ground at the Butt, where its bottom-moraine or till was dragged over the marine deposits, and confusedly commingled with them. The upper strata of the ice that streamed across the islands renewed the work of abrasion, and succeeded in scraping away all traces of the late occupation by the sea. If any such now exist they must lie buried under the till that cloaks the low-ground on the western margins of the islands. Hence it is that we find not a vestige of shelly beds in any part of the Long Island which was exposed to the full brunt of the ice-flow. At Garabost they have been ploughed through in the most wonderful manner, and only little patches remain. At Ness, however, they are more continuous. This is owing to the circumstance that the ground in that neighbourhood is low-lying and offered no obstacle to the passage of the ice out to sea. Hence the shell-beds were not subjected to such excessive erosion as overtook them along the whole eastern border of the Long Island.

Eventually, however, this later advance of the ice-sheet ceased. The climate grew less arctic, and the great glacier began to melt away, until the time came that its upper strata ceased to overflow the islands. They then passed away to north and south, along the hollow now occupied by the Minch, following the same path as the bottom-ice. Considerable snow-fields, however, still covered the Outer Hebrides, and large local glaciers occupied all the mountain-valleys, and, descending to low levels, piled up their terminal moraines. Some of these local glaciers appear to have gone right out into the Minch, as in South Uist, and may have coalesced with the great glacier that still filled that basin. It was during this condition of things that most of the great perched blocks that are scattered so profusely over the islands began to be dropt into their present positions. During the climax of glacial cold, when the upper strata of the ice-sheet streamed across the Hebrides, large fragments of rock would certainly be wrenched off and carried on underneath the ice; but as only a few of the Hebridean mountain-tops were then exposed, there would be a general absence of such enormous erratics as are detached by frost and rolled down upon the surface of a glacier, and any such superficially-borne erratics would be transported, of course, far beyond the Long Island into the Atlantic. When the ice had ceased to overflow the islands, boulders derived from Skye and the mainland would no longer be carried so directly out to the Atlantic, but would travel thither by the more circuitous route, which the now diminished ice-sheet was compelled to follow.

As the snow and ice melted off the Hebrides, the rocks would begin to be exposed to the action of intense frost, and many fragments, becoming dislodged and falling upon névé, small local ice-sheets, and glaciers, would be stranded on hill-slopes and sprinkled over the low-grounds, along with much broken débris and rock-rubbish. Eventually all the lower-grounds would be deserted by the ice, glaciers would die out of the less elevated valleys, and linger in only a few of the glens that drain the higher mountain-masses. Such local glaciers have flowed often at right angles to the direction followed by the great ice-sheet. Thus, the ice-markings in the glens that come down from the Forest of Harris to West Loch Tarbert, run from north to south, while the trend of the older glaciation on the intervening high-grounds is from south-east to north-west.

The morainic rubbish and erratics of this latest phase in the glacial history of the Long Island may be traced down almost to the water’s edge, showing plainly that there has been no great submergence of that region since the disappearance of glacial conditions. This is somewhat remarkable, because along the shores of central and southern Scotland we have indisputable evidence to show that the land was drowned to the depth of at least fifty feet in post-glacial times. In the Outer Hebrides, however, there are no traces of any post-glacial submergence exceeding a dozen feet or so; that is to say, there is no proof that the Outer Hebrides have been of much less extent than they are now. On the contrary, we have many reasons for believing that they were within comparatively recent times of considerably larger size, and were even in all probability united to the mainland. The abundance of large trees in the peat-mosses, and the fact that these ancient peat-covered forests extend out to sea, are alone sufficient to convince one that the Outer Hebrides have been much reduced in area since the close of the glacial period. These now bleak islands at one time supported extensive forests, although nowadays a tree will hardly grow unless it be carefully looked after. That old forest period coincided in all probability with the latest continental condition of the British Islands – when the broad plains which are now drowned under the German Ocean formed part of a great forest-land, that included all the British Islands, and extended west for some distance into tracts over which now roll the waves of the Atlantic. The palmy days of the great British forests, however, passed away when the German Ocean came into existence. The climatic conditions were then not so favourable for the growth of large trees; and in the uplands of our country, and what are now our maritime districts, the forests decayed, and were gradually overgrown by and buried under peat-mosses. The submergence of the land continued after that, until central and southern Scotland were reduced to a considerably smaller size than now, and then by-and-by the process was reversed, and the sea once more retreated, leaving behind it a number of old raised beaches to mark the levels at which it formerly stood.

The greatest submergence that overtook central and southern Scotland in times posterior to the latest continental condition of Britain did not exceed fifty feet, or thereabout; and the extreme limits reached by the sea in the period that supervened between the close of the glacial epoch and the “age of forests” was not more than one hundred feet. The Outer Hebrides, however, were certainly not smaller in post-glacial times than they are now, and we have no evidence to show that after the “age of forests” had passed away the sea rose higher than a dozen feet or so above its present level. Now there are only two ways in which all this can be accounted for. Either the Hebrides remained stationary, or stood at a level higher than now, while the central and southern parts of Scotland were being submerged; or else there has been a very recent depression within the Hebridean area, which has carried down below the sea all traces of late glacial and post-glacial raised beaches. All we know for certain is, that the only raised beaches in the Long Island are met with in low maritime regions at only a few feet above the present high-water mark. My own impression is that the whole district has been submerged within comparatively recent times; for if the present coast-line had endured since the close of the glacial period, or even since the last continental condition of Britain, I should have expected the sea to have done more than it has in the way of excavation and erosion.

In a former article I have spoken of the sand-dunes and sandy flats of the west coast of the Long Island. These receive their greatest development in North Uist, Benbecula, and South Uist. Along the whole western margin of these islands stretch wide shoals and banks of yellow sand and silt, and similar shoals and banks cover the bed of the shallow sounds or channels. In the middle of the Sound of Harris one may often touch the bottom with an oar, and even run one’s boat aground. It is the same in the Sound of Barra, while, as I have already mentioned, one may walk at low-water from Benbecula into the adjacent islands of North and South Uist. Where does all this sand come from? Certainly not from the degradation of the islands by the sea, for the sounds appear to be silting up, and the general appearance of the sandy flats along the west coast indicates that the land is upon the whole gaining rather than losing. I have no doubt at all that this sand and silt are merely the old sub-glacial débris which the ice-sheet spread over the low shelving plateau that extends west under the Atlantic to the 100-fathoms line. That plateau must have been thickly covered with till, and with heaps and sheets of gravel and sand and silt, and it is these deposits, sifted and winnowed by the sea, which the tides and waves sweep up along the Atlantic margin of the islands.

There are many other points of interest to that I might touch upon, but I have said enough perhaps to indicate to any intelligent observer the kind of country he may be led to expect in the Long Island. Of course the history of the glacial period is very well illustrated in many parts of the mainland, which are much easier of access than the Outer Hebrides. But these islands contain, at least, one bit of evidence which does not occur anywhere else in Britain. In them we obtain, for the first time, data for measuring the actual slope of the ice-sheet. It does not follow, however, that the inclination of the surface towards the Atlantic was the same all over the area covered by the ice-sheet. The slope of the sheet that flowed east into the basin of the German Ocean, for example, may have been, and probably was, less than that of the Hebridean ice-flow. But apart altogether from this particular point, I think there is no part of the British Islands where the evidence for the former action of a great ice-sheet is more abundant and more easily read, or where one may realise with such vividness the conditions that obtained during that period of extraordinary climatic vicissitudes, which geologists call the Glacial Epoch.

Leaving these old arctic scenes, and coming down to the actual present, no one, I think, can wander much about the Outer Hebrides without pondering over the fate of the islanders themselves. Many writers have asserted that the Celt of these rather out-of-the-way places is a lazy, worthless creature, whom we Saxons should do our best to weed out. One cannot help feeling that this assertion is unfair and cruel. The fact is, we judge him by a wrong standard. He is by nature and long-inherited habits a fisherman, and has been wont to cultivate only so much land as should suffice for the sustenance of himself and those immediately dependent upon him. In old times he was often enough called upon to fight, wrongly or rightly, and thus acquired that proud bearing which it has taken so many long years of misery to crush out. He is, as a rule, totally unfit for the close confinement and hard work which are the lot of the great mass of our mechanics – does not see the beauty of that, and has rather a kind of contempt for the monotonous drudgery of large manufacturing towns. One of the few situations in town that he cares to fill is that of police-constable. Give him a life in the open air, however trying it may be, and he will be quite content if he can make enough to feed himself and family. If the fishing chance to be very profitable he does not, as a rule, think of saving the surplus he has made, but looks forward rather to a spell of idleness, when he can smoke his pipe and talk interminable long talks with his neighbours. No doubt this, judged by our own standard, is all very shocking. Why doesn’t he put his money in the savings-bank, and by-and-by die and leave it to those who come after him? Simply because he is a Celt, and not a Saxon.

Of course one knows how it will all end. Ere long the unadulterated Celt will be driven or improved out of these islands, and will retire to other lands, where, mingling and intermarrying with Teutons, he will eventually disappear, but not without leavening the races amongst which he is destined to vanish. And who will take his place in the Long Island? Probably a few farmers, a few shepherds, and a sprinkling of gamekeepers; and it is just possible that a few fishermen also may be allowed to settle down here and there upon the coast. One may see the process going on at present. Large tracts that once supported many villages are now quite depopulated. The time will come when somebody in Parliament will move for the reduction of the Civil Service estimates by the amount of the sheriff-substitute’s salary, and when the jail at Lochmaddy will have nothing higher in the scale of being to imprison than some refractory ram. One may be pardoned for wishing that he could foretell for the islands another fate than this. It is sad to think that a fine race of people is thus surely passing away from amongst us, for, despite all that can be urged against them, they are what I say. The fishermen of Lewis and Barra are bold, stalwart fellows, whom it would be difficult to peer amongst any similar class of men on the mainland. And all through the island one meets with equally excellent specimens of our kind. Many a brave soldier who fought our battles in the great French wars hailed from these outer islands. Pity it is that no feasible plan to prevent the threatened scattering of the race has yet been brought forward. Some day we may regret this, and come to think that though mutton and wool in the Long Island are desirable, yet islanders would have been better.

[Postscript. – On pages 153.4 I have described the second general ice-sheet that overflowed the Outer Hebrides as having eventually become resolved into a series of local ice-sheets and glaciers. Subsequent research, however, has since led me to believe that the district ice-sheets and local glaciers referred to were not the direct descendants of the last great ice-sheet. They appear to have come into existence long after that ice-sheet had entirely disappeared. See Article X.]

VI.

The Ice Age in Europe and North America.[11 - Address to the Geological Society of Edinburgh, 1884.]

In casting about for a subject upon which to address you this evening, I thought I could hardly do better than give you the result of a comparison which I have recently been able to make between the glacial phenomena of Europe and North America. The subject of glaciation seems to be now somewhat worn; but I gather from the fact that writers can still be found who see in our superficial deposits strong evidence of the Deluge, that a short outline of what we really do know may not be unacceptable. In the short time at our disposal, it is obvious that I cannot enter into much detail, and that many interesting questions must remain untouched. It will be as well, therefore, that I should at the outset define the limits of the present inquiry, and state clearly what are the chief points to which I wish to direct your attention. My main object, then, will be to bring into prominence such evidence as seems to betoken in a special manner the uniformity of conditions that obtained in the northern hemisphere during the Ice Age. In other words, I shall confine myself to a description of certain characteristic and representative phenomena which are common to Europe and North America, with the view of showing that the physical conditions of the glacial period were practically the same in both continents.

The phenomena which might be considered under this head embrace nearly all the facts with which glacialists are familiar, but I purpose restricting myself to three questions only, viz.: —

1st. The extent of glaciation

2nd. Changes of climate during the Ice Age

3rd. The results of fluvio-glacial action

The consideration of these questions, even if it were exhaustive (which it cannot be on this occasion), would still leave the general subject very incomplete, for we must forego the discussion of all such interesting topics as the “connection between glaciation and submergence,” "the formation of rock-basins," and the “origin of the geographical distribution of our faunas and floras.” Confining my inquiry within the limits just specified, I shall begin by sketching broadly the general results obtained by glacialists in Europe, and thereafter I shall proceed to give an outline of the corresponding conclusions arrived at by American observers.

I.

The Extent of Glaciation in Europe

To what extent, then, let us ask, has Europe been glaciated? What areas have been covered with perennial snow and ice? Owing to the fulness and clearness of the evidence, we are able to give a very definite answer to this question. It is hardly too much to say that we are as well acquainted with the distribution of glacier-ice in Europe during the Ice Age as we are with that of existing snow-fields and glaciers.

The nature of the evidence upon which our knowledge is based is doubtless familiar to many whom I have the pleasure of now addressing, but for the sake of those who have not such familiarity with the subject I may be allowed to indicate very briefly its general character. A rock-surface over which ice has flowed for any considerable time exhibits either an abraded, worn, and smoothed appearance, or the rocks are disrupted and broken, and larger or smaller fragments are found to have been removed and carried forward in the direction followed by the ice. Now, ice-worn and shattered rock-surfaces of this description, such as can be seen underneath existing glaciers, occur more or less abundantly over vast regions in Europe. They are met with from the North Cape south as far as Leipzig, and from the Outer Hebrides east to the valley of the Petchora and the foot-slopes of the Ural Mountains. Nor are they confined to northern Europe. They appear again and again in France and Spain and Italy, and in the low-grounds of middle Europe, where they occupy positions now far removed from the influence of glacial action. Such ice-worn and disrupted rock-surfaces not only prove that glacier-ice formerly covered large portions of our Continent, but they also indicate for us the directions in which that enveloping ice moved. The smoother surfaces in question are very frequently marked with coarse and fine parallel scratches and grooves of precisely the same nature and origin as the scratches and grooves which characterise the rocky bed of a modern glacier. And these markings, having been produced by the sand, grit, and stones which are pushed and dragged over the rocks by flowing ice, necessarily discover for us the path of glacial movement. But all rocks subjected to glacial action are not necessarily smoothed and polished. Sometimes, owing to structural peculiarities, and for various other reasons, rocks cannot resist the pressure of the ice, but are crushed and broken, and the resulting fragments are rolled and dragged forward in the direction of ice-flow. In this manner the path of a glacier becomes strewed with débris which has from time to time been forced from its rocky bed. There is really no mystery, therefore in tracking the spoor of extinct glaciers; for we have two sets of facts to aid us, either of which might suffice to indicate the extent and direction of glaciation. Consider, however, for a moment, what one observes in connection with rock-striation. We have, in the first place, the rounding and smoothing, and the parallel ruts and striæ. Not only so, but we frequently find that one side of prominent projecting knolls and hills is more highly worn and abraded than the other. Often, indeed, one side may show no trace whatsoever of abrasion. Here, again, we have clear evidence of the direction of ice-flow. Who can doubt that the worn and abraded rocks look towards the point whence the ice came, and that the non-glaciated rocks in the rear have been sheltered by the rocks in front? It is for this reason that in the mountainous regions of northern Europe the striated and smoothed rock-surfaces invariably look up the valleys, while the broken and unworn rock-ledges face in the opposite direction.

Once more, note the manner in which the sub-glacial rock-rubbish, consisting of clay, sand, grit, stones, and boulders, has been amassed. In places where the ice must have moved more or less rapidly, as on considerable slopes, no accumulation took place, while in the rear of projecting crags and knobs of rock, sub-glacial materials often gathered deeply. Again, over low-lying tracts, where the motion of the ice would necessarily be retarded, clay, sand, and stones tended to collect. And this particularly appears to have been the case in those regions where the slow-creeping and gradually thinning ice-sheet approached its terminal line. Hence it is that we encounter such thick and wide-spread sheets of sub-glacial detritus upon the undulating low-grounds and plains of southern Sweden, Denmark, Schleswig-Holstein, Holland, northern Germany, Poland, and Russia.

The sub-glacial débris to which I specially refer is known as Till or Boulder-clay in this country, as Krosstenslera in Sweden, as Geschiebelehm or Geschiebemergel in Germany, and as Grundmoräne or Moraine profonde in Switzerland. Its general characters are too well known to require more than the briefest summary. In general this peculiar accumulation is an unstratified clay, containing, scattered higgledy-piggledy through it, stones and boulders of all shapes and sizes. Many of these rock-fragments are smoothed and striated, and even the smallest particles, when viewed under the microscope, often show delicate scratches. Frequently, too, the clay is excessively hard and tough, and in many places it shows a kind of pseudo-lamination, which is generally more or less crumpled, and often highly involved. These appearances prove that the clay has not only been subjected to intense pressure, but has actually been rolled over upon itself. I need only refer to the plentiful occurrence of “slickensides” in such clays – the joints by which the clay is often traversed showing such polishing clearly on their faces. These, and many other facts which time forbids me to mention, have received an explanation which has now been generally adopted by European glacialists. The boulder-clay or till is considered by them to represent the ground- or bottom-moraine of glacier-ice. There used to be a notion prevalent amongst geologists in our country that this clay was almost peculiar to these islands. It occurs, however, in most countries of Europe. Vast regions in the north are more or less continuously covered by it, and we meet with it abundantly also upon the low-grounds of Switzerland, from which it may be followed far down the great valley of the Rhone into the sunny plains of France. The lower valleys of the Pyrenees and other Spanish ranges show it well, and it is conspicuous likewise in northern Italy, especially over the low tracts at the mouths of the great lake-valleys. In all those places one can see boulder-clay of as pronounced a character as any to be met with in Scotland.

Danish, Dutch, German, and Russian geologists have of late years devoted much attention to the study of this clay, which is so remarkably developed in their respective countries. It has been long well known that a large proportion of the stones and boulders contained in the till are of northern derivation, but it is only of recent years that we have ascertained the particular routes by which those wanderers or erratics have travelled. The rock-fragments in question have been tracked back, as it were, to their parent masses, and thus, partly in this way, and partly by the evidence of ice-worn surfaces, we have been enabled to follow the spoor of the great northern ice-sheet in a most satisfactory manner. Let one or two examples suffice. Boulders derived from Lapland and Finland occur in the till at St. Petersburg, and have been traced south-east to Moscow. Again, fragments carried from Gottland, in the Baltic, are met with in the boulder-clay of east Prussia, and have been followed south to beyond Berlin. In like manner boulders of well-known Scanian rocks appear in the boulder-clay of Leipzig. So also Swedish and Norwegian rock-fragments are seen in the boulder-clay of Denmark, Hanover, and Holland.

Very wide areas in northern Germany are covered with an almost continuous sheet of glacial detritus, so that it is only occasionally that the underlying rocks crop out at the surface. Striated rock-surfaces are therefore by no means so commonly exposed as in regions like the Lowlands of Scotland. They are not wanting, however, and their evidence is very striking. Thus, in the neighbourhood of Leipzig and Dresden, we find glacial striæ impressed upon certain highly-abraded and ice-worn hillocks of porphyry, the striæ being the work of ice which flowed into Saxony from the north. Similar striæ;, having a general southerly trend, occur at Rüdersdorf, near Berlin, at Gommern, near Magdeburg, at Velpke in Brunswick, at Osnabrück in Hanover, and at other places. Again, we encounter remarkable evidence of the powerful pressure exerted by the ice in the displacement and removal of huge blocks of strata. In Saxony, for example, the Tertiary strata are turned up, pushed out of place, and involved in boulder-clay to such an extent that the brown coals have often been mined for in this strange position. Witness also the extensive displacements and dislocations of the Cretaceous formation in the Danish islands of the Baltic. So great are the contortions and displacements of the Chalk in Moen, that these disturbances were formerly attributed to subterranean action. Along the north-east coast of that island, cliffs 400 feet in height exhibit the Cretaceous beds thrown upon end, twisted, bent, and even inverted, boulder-clay being squeezed into and between the disjointed and ruptured rock-masses.

From a study of these and similar phenomena, it has been demonstrated that during the climax of the Ice Age a very large part of northern Europe was buried under a thick covering of glacier-ice. And it has been conclusively shown that this ice-sheet streamed outwards in all directions from the high-grounds of Scandinavia, for which reason it is often spoken of as the Scandinavian ice-sheet. But as it was fed, not from the snow-fields of Scandinavia alone, but from the precipitation of snow over its whole surface, it is better, I think, to speak of it as the northern ice-sheet. In the extreme north of Scandinavia the ice flowed northward into the Arctic Ocean, while south of the dominant watershed of Lapland and Sweden its course in those high latitudes was east and south-east. It filled up the depressions of the White Sea, the Gulf of Bothnia, and the Baltic, extending east to the valley of the Petchora and the base of the Ural Mountains, and south-east to Kazan, some 200 miles east of Nijnii-Novgorod. From this point its terminal front trended a little west of south, until it reached the fiftieth parallel of latitude. Undulating a few miles south and north of this parallel, it swept directly west through Russia into Galicia, till it touched the foot-hills of the Carpathian range. After this we follow it along the northern base of the Riesen Gebirge, the Erz Gebirge, and the Harz, and thence westward through Hanover, and into the Low Countries, as far south at least as the mouth of the Rhine. Throughout the vast regions lying west and north of this terminal line, the track followed by the ice has been well ascertained. It was east and south-east in Russia, southerly in east Prussia, south-westerly in Denmark, Hanover, and Holland.

The action of a mass of glacier-ice, reaching a thickness of several thousand feet, must necessarily have resulted in extensive erosion of the rocks over which it passed. Everywhere, therefore, throughout the vast area just indicated, we meet with evidence of severe erosion. But, as one should expect, such erosion is most marked in the hilly regions – in those areas where steep slopes induced more rapid motion of the ice, and where projecting crags and hills opposed the advance of the eroding agent. All such prominent obstructions were energetically assailed – abraded, rounded, worn, and smoothed, or crushed, shattered, dislocated, and displaced. The high-grounds of Scandinavia and Finland, formed for the most part of tough, crystalline rocks, or of more or less durable strata, show everywhere roches moutonnées– smoothed and rounded rocks – while innumerable rock-basins have been scooped out in front of prominent crags and hills. In Denmark and other countries, where less durable rocks prevail, the strata have often been broken and disrupted, and pushed out of place. But as regions formed of such rocks are generally gently-undulating, and seldom show abrupt crags and hills, they oppose few obstructions to the advance of an ice-sheet. When the northern ice-sheet flowed into Russia and Germany, it crept over a low-lying and, for the most part, gently-undulating surface; and although here and there the form of the ground favoured glacial erosion and disruption, and extensive displacements of rock-masses took place, yet, upon the whole the low-lying regions referred to became areas of accumulation. The sub-glacial detritus – ground out or wrenched away from the rough Scandinavian plateau and the uplands of Finland – was dragged on underneath the ice, and spread over the great plains lying to the south-east and south, as the gradually attenuated ice-sheet crawled to its terminal line. My friend Dr. Amund Helland, the well-known Norwegian geologist, has made an estimate of the amount of rock-débris derived from Scandinavia and Finland which lies scattered over the low-grounds of northern Europe. According to him, the area in Denmark, Holland, Germany, and Russia (exclusive of Finland), over which northern detritus is scattered, contains about 2,100,000 square kilometres, and the average thickness of the deposits is about 150 feet, of which, however, only two-thirds, or 100 feet, are of northern origin, the remaining third consisting of local materials. Taking, then, 100 feet as fairly representing the average thickness of the rock-rubbish derived from Finland and Scandinavia, the area of which is given as 800,000 square kilometres, there is enough of this material to raise the general surface of those lands by 255 feet. The same amount of material would suffice to fill up all the numerous lakes of Finland and Sweden sixteen or seventeen times over. Or, if tumbled into the Baltic, it would fill the basin of that sea one and a half times. In short, enough northern rock-débris lies upon the low-grounds of northern Europe, which, were it restored to the countries from which it has been taken, would obliterate all the lake-hollows of Finland and Sweden, raise the level of those lands by 80 feet, and fill up the entire basin of the Baltic, with all its bays. And yet this estimate leaves out of account all the material which the ice-sheet carried away from Norway and the British Islands.

Of the glaciation of our own land I need say very little. The configuration of our country necessarily made it a centre of dispersion during the Ice Age, and the ice which covered Ireland, Scotland, and the major portion of England radiated outwards from the dominant elevations of the land. But as the ice creeping outwards from those centres became confluent, the directions which it followed were often considerably modified, especially upon the low-grounds. We know that the British ice-sheet not only covered the land up to near the tops of our higher mountains, but filled up all our seas and extended into the Atlantic beyond the coasts of Ireland and the Outer Hebrides – these latter islands having been glaciated from the east by the ice that flowed outwards from the mainland. Another point upon which we are now well assured is the fact that the British and Scandinavian ice-sheets coalesced, so that the basin of the North Sea completely brimmed over with glacier-ice.

Finally, then, in contemplating the physical conditions that obtained in northern Europe at the climax of the Ice Age, we have to picture to ourselves the almost total obliteration under a vast ice-sheet of all the land-features of the British Islands, Scandinavia, and Finland, and the adjacent low-lying tracts of Denmark, Holland, Germany, Poland, and Russia. If at that distant date a prehistoric man could have stood on the summit of Snaehatten, he would have seen an apparently interminable plain of snow and ice, bounded only by the visible horizon. Could he have followed the plain southwards in hopes of escaping from it, he would have descended its gently-sloping surface by imperceptible gradations for a distance of 700 miles, before he reached its termination at the foot of the mountains of middle Germany. Or, could he have set out upon an easterly course, he would have crossed the Gulf of Bothnia, buried several thousand feet beneath him, and touched the foot-slopes of the Ural Mountains before he gained the terminal front of the ice-cap, a distance of 1600 miles. On the other hand, had he walked south-west in the direction of Ireland, he would have traversed the area of the North Sea at a height of several thousand feet above its bed, and, crossing the British area, would only have reached the ice-front at a point some 50 miles beyond the coast of Ireland. Here he would have seen the ice-sheet presenting a steep face to the assaults of the Atlantic, and breaking away in massive tabular bergs, like those which are calved by the ice-cap of the Antarctic regions.

I must now pass rapidly in review the facts relating to the glaciation of the mountainous regions which lay outside of the area covered by the northern ice-sheet. The glaciers of the Alps of Switzerland, about which so much has been written, and the study of which first gave Venetz, Charpentier, and Agassiz the clue to the meaning of striated rocks, boulder-clay, and erratics, are, as is well known, the puny descendants of former gigantic ice-flows. At the culmination of the Ice Age all the mountain-valleys of Switzerland and northern Italy were choked with glaciers that streamed out upon the low-grounds. Along the northern slopes of the Alps, as in Bavaria and Würtemberg, these glaciers coalesced to form a considerable ice-sheet, and so likewise did the glaciers that descended from Switzerland, Savoy, and Dauphiny, into the great valley of the Rhone. Even in north Italy the same was the case with the glaciers that occupied the valleys in which now lie Lakes Orta, Maggiore, Varese, Lugano, and Como – the united ice-flows of those valleys forming a glacier which deployed upon the plains of the Po, with a frontage of not less than 40 miles.

To the north of the Alps, the Vosges Mountains and the Black Forest, the Harz, the Erz Gebirge, the Riesen Gebirge, and the Böhmer-Wald – all had their perennial ice and glaciers, although none of those elevated tracts now reaches the snow-line. It was the same with the Carpathians and the Urals, amongst which we meet with relics of much larger ice-streams than any that now exist in the Alps. Considerably further south were the glaciers of the Despoto Dagh of Roumelia. Great glaciers also in former times descended from the Caucasus, and in many hilly regions of Asia Minor indubitable traces of similar large ice-flows have been detected. The high-grounds of central France, and the mountains of Beaujolais and Lyonnais supported considerable glaciers, while from the Pyrenees numerous glaciers of the first class flowed out upon the low-grounds of France, and considerable ice-streams occupied the mountain-valleys on the Spanish side. Other Peninsular chains – the Serra da Estrella, the Sierra Guadarama, and the Sierra Nevada – had likewise their snow-fields and ice-streams. The same was the case with the Apennines and the Apuan Alps of Italy, the traces of former glacial action being conspicuous over a considerable part of Tuscany. Even in Corsica we encounter the same evidence of glaciation – striated rock-surfaces and moraines – which point to the former descent of considerable glaciers from Monte Rotondo.

But rock-striæ and moraines are not the only proofs of former cold and humid conditions having prevailed over middle and southern Europe at the climax of the glacial period. The limestone-breccias of Gibraltar have been described by Professor Ramsay and myself, and we have shown that these could only have been formed under the influence of excessive frost and melting snows. The limestone of the Rock has been broken up along the ridge, and its fragments showered down the slopes, at a time when these were more or less thickly covered with snow. Resting upon and imbedded in this snow, the rock-rubbish would be carried downward and outward during the gradual melting that took place in summer. And in this way immense accumulations of débris were borne forwards over the low-grounds that extended from the base of the Rock into regions which are now partially submerged. Breccias which have probably had a similar origin occur also in Corsica, Malta, and Cyprus, and doubtless they will yet be recognised in many other places. Again, over wide areas in northern France and the south of England, we meet with extensive sheets of earthy clay and rock-rubbish, which have certainly been heaped up under very different conditions of climate than obtain now. This stony earth has evidently travelled down the gentle slopes of the land, under the influence of frost and melting snow, in much the same way as ice-driven rock-rubbish and soil move slowly down the slopes of such dreary regions as Patagonia and certain low-lying tracts within the Arctic Circle.

II.

Changes of Climate in Europe during the Ice Age

We come next to the very interesting question of alternations of climate during the Ice Age. The evidence under this head has accumulated to such an extent within recent years as to convince most students of Pleistocene geology that very extensive changes of climate characterised the glacial period. How many such changes took place we are not yet in a position to say, but we know that the intensely arctic condition of things which has just been described was interrupted more than once by what have been termed “interglacial epochs,” during which a mild and genial climate prevailed over middle and northern Europe. For some time it was believed that such “interglacial epochs” had only a local significance, that they bespoke mere transitory retreats of the ice-fields, such as are known to have taken place within historical times in the glacier-valleys of the Alps. But increased observation and reflection have shown that this explanation of the phenomena of “interglacial beds” will not suffice. It is impossible to enter here upon details, but I may briefly state that the evidence in question is two-fold. First, we have the stratigraphical evidence. We have ascertained the existence, over wide areas in this and other glaciated countries, of several successive sheets of boulder-clay, which are often separated from each other by fossiliferous aqueous strata. It has been demonstrated that each of these sheets of sub-glacial detritus is the accumulation of a separate and distinct ice-flow. Second, we have the evidence of fossil organic remains. We find, for example, that the flora which covered the low-grounds of middle and temperate Europe during a certain stage of the glacial or Pleistocene period, consisted of plants which are now restricted to the tops of our mountains and to northern Scandinavia. The characteristic fauna associated with that flora embraced the reindeer, glutton, mammoth, woolly rhinoceros, Arctic fox lemming, chamois, and so forth. We know, indeed, that man hunted the reindeer and the mammoth in the south of France. Similar testimony to the coldness and humidity of the climate is borne by the land- and freshwater shells which occur in certain Pleistocene deposits in Italy, Corsica, southern France, Switzerland, Germany, etc. That this flora and fauna were contemporaneous with the great glaciation of our Continent has been as well ascertained as the fact of the Roman occupation of Britain. But if the evidence of organic remains strongly confirms and supports that supplied by the distribution of glacial deposits in Europe, no less forcibly does it corroborate the physical evidence as to the former existence of a warm and genial interglacial climate. During interglacial times a most abundant mammalian fauna roamed over all temperate Europe – a fauna comprising such animals as Irish deer, urus, bison, horse, stag, saiga, brown bear, grisly bear, several species of elephant, rhinoceros, and hippopotamus, hyæna, lion, leopard, etc. A like tale of genial conditions is told by the land- and freshwater shells, which occur in some of the Pleistocene deposits of England, France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and Italy. The testimony of the associated flora is just as striking. How genial and equable must have been the climate which permitted plants like the Canary laurel, the Judas-tree, the fig-tree, and others to flourish side by side in the north of France, with such forms as the hazel, willow, ash, and sycamore! The most noteworthy additions to our knowledge of interglacial conditions which have recently been made are the results obtained by M. Gaudry in the valley of the Seine, and by Dr. Penck in Bavarian Tyrol, the latter of whom has shown that there have been at least three great advances of the Alpine glaciers, separated by long-continued mild conditions, during which the glaciers receded far into the mountains.

It is interesting to observe that we have, especially in our own islands, good evidence to show that during the glacial period considerable oscillations of the relative level of land and sea took place. Thus, it has been ascertained, that just before the latest epoch of extensive glaciation, the British Islands were largely submerged in the sea. To what depth this remarkable submergence was carried we do not know, because any marine deposits which may have been accumulated at that time over the drowned country were for the most part obliterated by the action of the ice-sheet which subsequently covered and reglaciated our lands.[12 - I no longer believe in this “great submergence.” The marine shells in the high-level drift-deposits of our islands are “erratics,” carried by the ice-sheet which occupied the basin of the Irish Sea. That the low-grounds were submerged but the amount of the submergence has not been ascertained; probably it did not exceed a few hundred feet.] But the few fragments of such marine deposits as have been preserved show us that the depression reached more than 500 feet in Scotland (i. e., measured from the present sea-level), and exceeding 1000 feet in Wales and Ireland. We note, then, in passing, that the only great Pleistocene submergence of these lands of which geologists have any knowledge took place before the appearance of the last general ice-sheet that overflowed our low-grounds. The submergences of a later date were of inconsiderable importance, hardly exceeding 100 feet or thereabouts below the present sea-level. The latest occupant of our islands and of northern Europe was not the sea, but ice. The “Palæocrystic Sea,” which we have been recently assured would account for our glacial phenomena, is of “the stuff that dreams are made of.” There is not a jot or tittle of evidence for the former existence of such a sea over any part of Britain or the continent of Europe.

It is not necessary for my present purpose to enter further into the evidence of interglacial conditions. The latest northern ice-sheet was preceded by a long epoch of mild and genial conditions, during which elephants and hippopotami ranged north as far at least as Yorkshire; while middle Germany, as we know from the testimony of its interglacial deposits, enjoyed a similar delightful climate. And yet the immediately preceding glacial epoch had seen all those fertile regions covered with an ice-sheet that extended south as far as the fiftieth parallel of latitude. Now the question with which I am at present concerned is the extent of the latest general glaciation. Did the last great ice-sheet reach as far south as its predecessor? It certainly did not. Its bottom-moraine has now been mapped out and distinguished from that of the older ice-sheet, and we know that it does not extend so far south as the latter. It is entirely absent over all the region to the west of the River Elbe, from near Dresden to Hamburg and the coast of Holland.[13 - Klockmann, Jahrb. der k. preuss. geol. Landesanstalt für 1883, p. 330.] So that western Germany and Holland, which were covered by ice during the epoch of greatest glaciation, were not invaded by the ice-sheet underneath which the upper boulder-clay was accumulated. This latest ice-sheet, however, overwhelmed all Mecklenburg and Mark Brandenburg, and streamed south nearly as far as Saxony; its southern margin extended east through Silesia, by Liegnitz and Breslau, into Poland and Russia. But the precise line it followed in the latter country has yet to be ascertained. We may surmise, however, that it nowhere reached so far south or east as the ice-flow of the earlier epoch. I may add that the southern termination of the latest ice-sheet is in many places marked out by heaps, mounds, and ridges of earthy sand, gravel, rolled stones, and erratics; in short, by terminal moraines. These, however, are frequently highly degraded and washed down.