Island Life; Or, The Phenomena and Causes of Insular Faunas and Floras

CHAPTER XIII

THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Position and Physical Features—Absence of Indigenous Mammalia and Amphibia—Reptiles—Birds—Insects and Land-Shells—The Keeling Islands as Illustrating the Manner in which Oceanic Islands are Peopled—Flora of the Galapagos—Origin of the Flora of the Galapagos—Concluding Remarks.

The Galapagos differ in many important respects from the islands we have examined in our last chapter, and the differences are such as to have affected the whole character of their animal inhabitants. Like the Azores, they are volcanic, but they are much more extensive, the islands being both larger and more numerous; while volcanic action has been so recent that a large portion of their surface consists of barren lava-fields. They are considerably less distant from a continent than either the Azores or Bermuda, being about 600 miles from the west coast of South America and a little more than 700 from Veragua, with the small Cocos Islands intervening; and they are situated on the equator instead of being in the north temperate zone. They stand upon a deeply submerged bank, the 1,000 fathom line encircling all the more important islands at a few miles distance, whence there appears to be a comparatively steep descent all round to the average depth of that portion of the Pacific, between 2,000 and 3,000 fathoms.

MAP OF THE GALAPAGOS AND ADJACENT COASTS OF SOUTH AMERICA.

The light tint shows where the sea is less than 1,000 fathoms deep.

The figures show the depth in fathoms.

The whole group occupies a space of about 300 by 200 miles. It consists of five large and twelve small islands; the largest (Albemarle Island) being about eighty miles long and of very irregular shape, while the four next in importance—Chatham, Indefatigable, James, and Narborough Islands, are each about twenty-five or thirty miles long, and of a rounded or elongate form. The whole are entirely volcanic, and in the western islands there are numerous active volcanoes. Unlike the other groups of islands we have been considering, these are situated in a comparatively calm sea, where storms are of rare occurrence and even strong winds almost unknown. They are traversed by ocean currents which are strong and constant, flowing towards the north-west from the coast of Peru; and these physical conditions have had a powerful influence on the animal and vegetable forms by which the islands are now inhabited. The Galapagos have also, during three centuries, been frequently visited by Europeans, and were long a favourite resort of buccaneers and traders, who found an ample supply of food in the large tortoises which abound there; and to these visits we may perhaps trace the introduction of some animals whose presence it is otherwise difficult to account for. The vegetation is generally scanty, but still amply sufficient for the support of a considerable amount of animal life, as shown by the cattle, horses, asses, goats, pigs, dogs, and cats, which now run wild in some of the islands.

MAP OF THE GALAPAGOS.

The light tint shows a depth of less than 1,000 fathoms.

The figures show the depth in fathoms.

Absence of Indigenous Mammalia and Amphibia.—As in all other oceanic islands, we find here no truly indigenous mammalia, for though there is a mouse of the American genus Hesperomys, which differs somewhat from any known species, we can hardly consider this to be indigenous; first, because these creatures have been little studied in South America, and there may yet be many undescribed species, and in the second place because even had it been introduced by some European or native vessel, there is ample time in two or three hundred years for the very different conditions to have established a marked diversity in the characters of the species. This is the more probable because there is also a true rat of the Old World genus Mus, which is said to differ slightly from any known species; and as this genus is not a native of the American continents we are sure that it must have been recently introduced into the Galapagos. There can be little doubt therefore that the islands are completely destitute of truly indigenous mammalia; and frogs and toads, the only tropical representatives of the Amphibia, are equally unknown.

Reptiles.—Reptiles, however, which at first sight appear as unsuited as mammals to pass over a wide expanse of ocean, abound in the Galapagos, though the species are not very numerous. They consist of land-tortoises, lizards and snakes. The tortoises consist of two peculiar species, Testudo microphyes, found in most of the islands, and T. abingdonii recently discovered on Abingdon Island, as well as one extinct species, T. ephippium, found on Indefatigable Island. These are all of very large size, like the gigantic tortoises of the Mascarene Islands, from which, however, they differ in structural characters; and Dr. Günther believes that they have been originally derived from the American continent.[112 - Gigantic Land Tortoises Living and Extinct in the Collection of the British Museum. By A. C. L. G. Günther, F.R.S. 1877.] Considering the well known tenacity of life of these animals, and the large number of allied forms which have aquatic or sub-aquatic habits, it is not a very extravagant supposition that some ancestral form, carried out to sea by a flood, was once or twice safely drifted as far as the Galapagos, and thus originated the races which now inhabit them.

The lizards are five in number; a peculiar species of gecko, Phyllodactylus galapagensis, and four species of the American family Iguanidæ. Two of these are distinct species of the genus Tropidurus, the other two being large, and so very distinct as to be classed in peculiar genera. One of these is aquatic and found in all the islands, swimming in the sea at some distance from the shore and feeding on seaweed; the other is terrestrial, and is confined to the four central islands. These last were originally described as Amblyrhynchus cristatus by Mr. Bell, and A. subcristatus by Gray; they were afterwards placed in two other genera Trachycephalus and Oreocephalus (see Brit. Mus. Catalogue of Lizards), while in a recent paper by Dr. Steindachner, the marine species is again classed as Amblyrhynchus, while the terrestrial form is placed in another genus Conolophus, both genera being peculiar to the Galapagos.

How these lizards reached the islands we cannot tell. The fact that they all belong to American genera or families indicates their derivation from that continent, while their being all distinct species is a proof that their arrival took place at a remote epoch, under conditions perhaps somewhat different from any which now prevail. It is certain that animals of this order have some means of crossing the sea not possessed by any other land vertebrates, since they are found in a considerable number of islands which possess no mammals nor any other land reptiles; but what those means are has not yet been positively ascertained.

It is unusual for oceanic islands to possess snakes, and it is therefore somewhat of an anomaly that two species are found in the Galapagos. Both are closely allied to South American forms, and one is hardly different from a Chilian snake, so that they indicate a more recent origin than in the case of the lizards. Snakes it is known can survive a long time at sea, since a living boa-constrictor once reached the island of St. Vincent from the coast of South America, a distance of two hundred miles by the shortest route. Snakes often frequent trees, and might thus be conveyed long distances if carried out to sea on a tree uprooted by a flood such as often occurs in tropical climates and especially during earthquakes. To some such accident we may perhaps attribute the presence of these creatures in the Galapagos, and that it is a very rare one is indicated by the fact that only two species have as yet succeeded in obtaining a footing there.

Birds.—We now come to the birds, whose presence here may not seem so remarkable, but which yet present features of interest not exceeded by any other group. About seventy species of birds have now been obtained on these islands, and of these forty-one are peculiar to them. But all the species found elsewhere, except one, belong to the aquatic tribes or the waders which are pre-eminently wanderers, yet even of these eight are peculiar. The true land-birds are forty-two in number, and all but one are entirely confined to the Galapagos; while three-fourths of them present such peculiarities that they are classed in distinct genera. All are allied to birds inhabiting tropical America, some very closely; while one—the common American rice-bird which ranges over the whole northern and part of the southern continents—is the only land-bird identical with those of the mainland. The following is a list of these land-birds taken from Mr. Salvin's memoir in the Transactions of the Zoological Society for the year 1876, to which are added nine species collected in 1888 and described by Mr. Ridgway in the Proceedings of the U.S. National Museum (XII. p. 101) and some additional species obtained in 1889.

We have here every gradation of difference from perfect identity with the continental species to genera so distinct that it is difficult to determine with what forms they are most nearly allied; and it is interesting to note that this diversity bears a distinct relation to the probabilities of, and facilities for, migration to the islands. The excessively abundant rice-bird, which breeds in Canada and swarms over the whole United States, migrating to the West Indies and South America, visiting the distant Bermudas almost every year, and extending its range as far as Paraguay, is the only species of land-bird which remains completely unchanged in the Galapagos; and we may therefore conclude that some stragglers of the migrating host reach the islands sufficiently often to keep up the purity of the breed. Next, we have the almost cosmopolite short-eared owl (Asio brachyotus), which ranges from China to Ireland, and from Greenland to the Straits of Magellan, and of this the Galapagos bird is probably only one of the numerous varieties. The little wood warbler (Dendrœca aureola) is closely allied to a species which ranges over the whole of North America and as far south as New Grenada. It has also been occasionally met with in Bermuda, an indication that it has considerable powers of flight and endurance. The more distinct species—as the tyrant fly-catchers (Pyrocephalus and Myiarchus), the ground-dove (Zenaida), and the buzzard (Buteo), are all allied to non-migratory species peculiar to tropical America, and of a more restricted range; while the distinct genera are allied to South American groups of thrushes, finches, and sugar-birds which have usually restricted ranges, and whose habits are such as not to render them likely to be carried out to sea. The remote ancestral forms of these birds which, owing to some exceptional causes, reached the Galapagos, have thus remained uninfluenced by later migrations, and have, in consequence, been developed into a variety of distinct types adapted to the peculiar conditions of existence under which they have been placed. Sometimes the different species thus formed are confined to one or two of the islands only, as the three species of Certhidea, which are divided between the islands but do not appear ever to occur together. Nesomimus parvulus is confined to Albemarle Island, and N. trifasciatus to Charles Island; Cactornis pallida to Indefatigable Island, C. brevirostris to Chatham Island, and C. abingdoni to Abingdon Island.

Now all these phenomena are strictly consistent with the theory of the peopling of the islands by accidental migrations, if we only allow them to have existed for a sufficiently long period; and the fact that volcanic action has ceased on many of the islands, as well as their great extent, would certainly indicate a considerable antiquity.

The great difference presented by the birds of these islands as compared with those of the equally remote Azores and Bermudas, is sufficiently explained by the difference of climatal conditions. At the Galapagos there are none of those periodic storms, gales, and hurricanes which prevail in the North Atlantic, and which every year carry some straggling birds of Europe or North America to the former islands; while, at the same time, the majority of the tropical American birds are nonmigratory, and thus afford none of the opportunities presented by the countless hosts of migrants which pass annually northward and southward along the European, and especially along the North American coasts. It is strictly in accordance with these different conditions that we find in one case an almost perfect identity with, and in the other an almost equally complete diversity from, the continental species of birds.

Insects and Land-shells.—The other groups of land-animals add little of importance to the facts already referred to. The insects are very scanty; the most plentiful group, the beetles, only furnishing about forty species belonging to thirty-two genera and nineteen families. The species are almost all peculiar, as are some of the genera. They are mostly small and obscure insects, allied either to American or to world-wide groups. The Carabidæ and the Heteromera are the most abundant groups, the former furnishing six and the latter nine species.[113 - The following list of the beetles yet known from the Galapagos shows their scanty proportions and accidental character; the forty species belonging to thirty-three genera and eighteen families. It is taken from Mr. Waterhouse's enumeration in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society for 1877 (p. 81), with a few additions collected by the U. S. Fish Commission Steamer Albatross, and published by the U. S. National Museum in 1889.]

The land-shells are not abundant—about twenty in all, most of them peculiar species, but not otherwise remarkable. The observation of Captain Collnet, quoted by Mr. Darwin in his Journal, that drift-wood, bamboos, canes, and the nuts of a palm, are often washed on the south-eastern shores of the islands, furnishes an excellent clue to the manner in which many of the insects and land-shells may have reached the Galapagos. Whirlwinds also have been known to carry quantities of leaves and other vegetable débris to great heights in the air, and these might be then carried away by strong upper currents and dropped at great distances, and with them small insects and mollusca, or their eggs. We must also remember that volcanic islands are subject to subsidence as well as elevation; and it is quite possible that during the long period the Galapagos have existed some islands may have intervened between them and the coast, and have served as stepping-stones by which the passage to them of various organisms would be greatly facilitated. Sunken banks, the relics of such islands, are known to exist in many parts of the ocean, and countless others, no doubt, remain undiscovered.

The Keeling Islands as Illustrating the Manner in which Oceanic Islands are Peopled.—That such causes as have been here adduced are those by which oceanic islands have been peopled, is further shown by the condition of equally remote islands which we know are of comparatively recent origin. Such are the Keeling or Cocos Islands in the Indian Ocean, situated about the same distance from Sumatra as the Galapagos from South America, but mere coral reefs, supporting abundance of cocoa-nut palms as their chief vegetation. These islands were visited by Mr. Darwin, and their natural history carefully examined. The only mammals are rats, brought by a wrecked vessel and said by Mr. Waterhouse to be common English rats, "but smaller and more brightly coloured;" so that we have here an illustration of how soon a difference of race is established under a constant and uniform difference of conditions. There are no true land-birds, but there are snipes and rails, both apparently common Malayan species. Reptiles are represented by one small lizard, but no account of this is given in the Zoology of the Voyage of the Beagle, and we may therefore conclude that it was an introduced species. Of insects, careful collecting only produced thirteen species belonging to eight distinct orders. The only beetle was a small Elater, the Orthoptera were a Gryllus and a Blatta; and there were two flies, two ants, and two small moths, one a Diopæa which swarms everywhere in the eastern tropics in grassy places. All these insects were no doubt brought either by winds, by floating timber (which reaches the islands abundantly), or by clinging to the feathers of aquatic or wading birds; and we only require more time to introduce a greater variety of species, and a better soil and more varied vegetation, to enable them to live and multiply, in order to give these islands a fauna and flora equal to that of the Bermudas. Of wild plants there were only twenty species, belonging to nineteen genera and to no less than sixteen natural families, while all were common tropical shore plants.[114 - Mr. H. O. Forbes, who visited these islands in 1878, increased the number of wild plants to thirty-six, and these belonged to twenty-six natural orders.] These islands are thus evidently stocked by waifs and strays brought by the winds and waves; but their scanty vegetation is mainly due to unfavourable conditions—the barren coral rock and sand, of which they are wholly composed, together with exposure to sea-air, being suitable to a very limited number of species which soon monopolise the surface. With more variety of soil and aspect a greater variety of plants would establish themselves, and these would favour the preservation and increase of more insects, birds, and other animals, as we find to be the case in many small and remote islands.[115 - Juan Fernandez is a good example of a small island which, with time and favourable conditions, has acquired a tolerably rich and highly peculiar flora and fauna. It is situated in 34° S. Lat., 400 miles from the coast of Chile, and so far as facilities for the transport of living organisms are concerned is by no means in a favourable position, for the ocean-currents come from the south-west in a direction where there is no land but the Antarctic continent, and the prevalent winds are also westerly. No doubt, however, there are occasional storms, and there may have been intermediate islands, but its chief advantages are its antiquity, its varied surface, and its favourable soil and climate, offering many chances for the preservation and increase of whatever plants and animals have chanced to reach it. The island consists of basalt, greenstone, and other ancient rocks, and though only about twelve miles long its mountains are three thousand feet high. Enjoying a moist and temperate climate it is especially adapted to the growth of ferns, which are very abundant; and as the spores of these plants are as fine as dust, and very easily carried for enormous distances by winds, it is not surprising that there are nearly fifty species on the island, while the remote period when it first received its vegetation may be indicated by the fact that nearly half the species are quite peculiar; while of 102 species of flowering plants seventy are peculiar, and there are ten peculiar genera. The same general character pervades the fauna. For so small an island it is rich, containing four true land-birds, about fifty species of insects, and twenty of land-shells. Almost all these belong to South American genera, and a large proportion are South American species; but several of the insects, half the birds, and the whole of the land-shells are peculiar. This seems to indicate that the means of transmission were formerly greater than they are now, and that in the case of land-shells none have been introduced for so long a period that all have become modified into distinct forms, or have been preserved on the island while they have become extinct on the continent. For a detailed examination of the causes which have led to the modification of the humming birds of Juan Fernandez see the chapter on Humming Birds in the author's Natural Selection and Tropical Nature, p. 324; while a general account of the fauna of the island is given in his Geographical Distribution of Animals, Vol. II. p. 49.]

Flora of the Galapagos.—The plants of these islands are so much more numerous than the known animals, even including the insects, they have been so carefully studied by eminent botanists, and their relations throw so much light on the past history of the group, that no apology is needed for giving a brief outline of the peculiarities and affinities of the flora. The statements we shall make on this subject will be taken from the Memoir of Sir Joseph Hooker in the Linnæan Transactions for 1851, founded on Mr. Darwin's collections, and a later paper by N. J. Andersson in the Linnæa of 1861, embodying more recent discoveries.

The total number of flowering plants known at the latter date was 332, of which 174 were peculiar to the islands, while 158 were common to other countries.[116 - No additions appear to have been made to this flora down to 1885, when Mr. Hemsley published his Report on the Present State of our Knowledge of Insular Floras.] Of these latter about twenty have been introduced by man, while the remainder are all natives of some part of America, though about a third part are species of wide range extending into both hemispheres. Of those confined to America, forty-two are found in both the northern and southern continents, twenty-one are confined to South America, while twenty are found only in North America, the West Indies, or Mexico. This equality of North American and South American species in the Galapagos is a fact of great significance in connection with the observation of Sir Joseph Hooker that the peculiar species are allied to the plants of temperate America or to those of the high Andes, while the non-peculiar species are mostly such as inhabit the hotter regions of the tropics near the level of the sea. He also observes that the seeds of this latter class of Galapagos plants often have special means of transport, or belong to groups whose seeds are known to stand long voyages and to possess great vitality. Mr. Bentham also, in his elaborate account of the Compositæ,[117 - Journal of the Linnean Society, Vol. XIII., "Botany," p. 556.] remarks on the decided Central American or Mexican affinities of the Galapagos species, so that we may consider this to be a thoroughly well-established fact.

The most prevalent families of plants in the Galapagos are the Compositæ (40 sp.), Gramineæ (32 sp.), Leguminosæ (30 sp.), and Euphorbiaceæ (29 sp.). Of the Compositæ most of the species, except such as are common weeds or shore plants, are peculiar, but there are only two peculiar genera, allied to Mexican forms and not very distinct; while the genus Lipochæta, represented here by a single species, is only found elsewhere in the Sandwich Islands though it has American affinities.

Origin of the Galapagos Flora.—These facts are explained by the past history of the American continent, its separation at various epochs by arms of the sea uniting the two oceans across what is now Central America (the last separation being of recent date, as shown by the considerable number of identical species of fishes on both sides of the isthmus), and the influence of the glacial epoch in driving the temperate American flora southward along the mountain plateaus.[118 - Geographical Distribution of Animals, Vol. II. p. 81.] At the time when the two oceans were united a portion of the Gulf Stream may have been diverted into the Pacific, giving rise to a current, some part of which would almost certainly have reached the Galapagos, and this may have helped to bring about that singular assemblage of West Indian and Mexican plants now found there. And as we now believe that the duration of the last glacial epoch in its successive phases was much longer than the time which has elapsed since it finally passed away, while throughout the Miocene epoch the snow-line would often be lowered during periods of high excentricity, we are enabled to comprehend the nature of the causes which may have led to the islands being stocked with those north tropical or mountain types which are so characteristic a feature of that portion of the Galapagos flora which consists of peculiar species.

On the whole, the flora agrees with the fauna in indicating a moderately remote origin, great isolation, and changes of conditions affording facilities for the introduction of organisms from various parts of the American coast, and even from the West Indian Islands and Gulf of Mexico. As in the case of the birds, the several islands differ considerably in their native plants, many species being limited to one or two islands only, while others extend to several. This is, of course, what might be expected on any theory of their origin; because, even if the whole of the islands had once been united and afterwards separated, long continued isolation would often lead to the differentiation of species, while the varied conditions to be found upon islands differing in size and altitude as well as in luxuriance of vegetation, would often lead to the extinction of a species on one island and its preservation on another. If the several islands had been equally well explored, it might be interesting to see whether, as in the case of the Azores, the number of species diminished in those more remote from the coast; but unfortunately our knowledge of the productions of the various islands of the group is exceedingly unequal, and, except in those cases in which representative species inhabit distinct islands, we have no certainty on the subject. All the more interesting problems in geographical distribution, however, arise from the relation of the fauna and flora of the group as a whole to those of the surrounding continents, and we shall therefore for the most part confine ourselves to this aspect of the question in our discussion of the phenomena presented by oceanic or continental islands.

Concluding Remarks.—The Galapagos offer an instructive contrast with the Azores, showing how a difference of conditions that might be thought unimportant may yet produce very striking results in the forms of life. Although the Galapagos are much nearer a continent than the Azores, the number of species of plants common to the continent is much less in the former case than in the latter, and this is still more prominent a characteristic of the insect and the bird faunas. This difference has been shown to depend, almost entirely, on the one archipelago being situated in a stormy, the other in a calm portion of the ocean; and it demonstrates the preponderating importance of the atmosphere as an agent in the dispersal of birds, insects, and plants. Yet ocean-currents and surface-drifts are undoubtedly efficient carriers of plants, and, with plants, of insects and shells, especially in the tropics; and it is probably to this agency that we may impute the recent introduction of a number of common Peruvian and Chilian littoral species, and also of several West Indian types at a more remote period when the Isthmus of Panama was submerged.

In the case of these islands we see the importance of taking account of past conditions of sea and land and past changes of climate, in order to explain the relations of the peculiar or endemic species of their fauna and flora; and we may even see an indication of the effects of climatal changes in the northern hemisphere, in the north temperate or alpine affinities of many of the plants, and even of some of the birds. The relation between the migratory habits of the birds and the amount of difference from continental types is strikingly accordant with the fact that it is almost exclusively migratory birds that annually reach the Azores and Bermuda; while the corresponding fact that the seeds of those plants, which are common to the Galapagos and the adjacent continent, have all—as Sir Joseph Hooker states—some special means of dispersal, is equally intelligible. The reason why the Galapagos possess four times as many peculiar species of plants as the Azores is clearly a result of the less constant introduction of seeds, owing to the absence of storms; the greater antiquity of the group, allowing more time for specific change; and the influence of cold epochs and of alterations of sea and land, in bringing somewhat different sets of plants at different times within the influence of such modified winds and currents as might convey them to the islands.

On the whole, then, we have no difficulty in explaining the probable origin of the flora and fauna of the Galapagos, by means of the illustrative facts and general principles already adduced.

CHAPTER XIV

ST. HELENA

Position and Physical Features of St. Helena—Change Effected by European Occupation—The Insects of St. Helena—Coleoptera—Peculiarities and Origin of the Coleoptera of St. Helena—Land-shells of St. Helena—Absence of Fresh-water Organisms—Native Vegetation of St. Helena—The Relations of the St. Helena Compositæ—Concluding Remarks on St. Helena.

In order to illustrate as completely as possible the peculiar phenomena of oceanic islands, we will next examine the organic productions of St. Helena and of the Sandwich Islands, since these combine in a higher degree than any other spots upon the globe, extreme isolation from all more extensive lands, with a tolerably rich fauna and flora whose peculiarities are of surpassing interest. Both, too, have received considerable attention from naturalists; and though much still remains to be done in the latter group, our knowledge is sufficient to enable us to arrive at many interesting results.

MAP OF THE SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN SHOWING THE POSITION OF ST. HELENA.

The light tint shows depths of less than 1,000 fathoms.

The figures show depths of the sea in fathoms.

Position and Physical Features of St. Helena.—This island is situated nearly in the middle of the South Atlantic Ocean, being more than 1,100 miles from the coast of Africa, and 1,800 from South America. It is about ten miles long by eight wide, and is wholly volcanic, consisting of ancient basalts, lavas, and other volcanic products. It is very mountainous and rugged, bounded for the most part by enormous precipices, and rising to a height of 2,700 feet above the sea-level. An ancient crater, about four miles across, is open on the south side, and its northern rim forms the highest and central ridge of the island. Many other hills and peaks, however, are more than two thousand feet high, and a considerable portion of the surface consists of a rugged plateau, having an elevation of about fifteen hundred to two thousand feet. Everything indicates that St. Helena is an isolated volcanic mass built up from the depths of the ocean. Mr. Wollaston remarks: "There are the strongest reasons for believing that the area of St. Helena was never very much larger than it is at present—the comparatively shallow sea-soundings within about a mile and a half from the shore revealing an abruptly defined ledge, beyond which no bottom is reached at a depth of 250 fathoms; so that the original basaltic mass, which was gradually piled up by means of successive eruptions from beneath the ocean, would appear to have its limit definitely marked out by this suddenly-terminating submarine cliff—the space between it and the existing coast-line being reasonably referred to that slow process of disintegration by which the island has been reduced, through the eroding action of the elements, to its present dimensions." If we add to this that between the island and the coast of Africa, in a south-easterly direction, is a profound oceanic gulf known to reach a depth of 2,860 fathoms, or 17,160 feet, while an equally deep, or perhaps deeper, ocean, extends to the west and south-west, we shall be satisfied that St. Helena is a true oceanic island, and that it owes none of its peculiarities to a former union with any continent or other distant land.

Change Effected by European Occupation.—When first discovered, in the year 1501, St. Helena was densely covered with a luxuriant forest vegetation, the trees overhanging the seaward precipices and covering every part of the surface with an evergreen mantle. This indigenous vegetation has been almost wholly destroyed; and although an immense number of foreign plants have been introduced, and have more or less completely established themselves, yet the general aspect of the island is now so barren and forbidding that some persons find it difficult to believe that it was once all green and fertile. The cause of the change is, however, very easily explained. The rich soil formed by decomposed volcanic rock and vegetable deposits could only be retained on the steep slopes so long as it was protected by the vegetation to which it in great part owed its origin. When this was destroyed, the heavy tropical rains soon washed away the soil, and has left a vast expanse of bare rock or sterile clay. This irreparable destruction was caused in the first place by goats, which were introduced by the Portuguese in 1513, and increased so rapidly that in 1588, they existed in thousands. These animals are the greatest of all foes to trees, because they eat off the young seedlings, and thus prevent the natural restoration of the forest. They were, however, aided by the reckless waste of man. The East India Company took possession of the island in 1651, and about the year 1700 it began to be seen that the forests were fast diminishing, and required some protection. Two of the native trees, redwood and ebony, were good for tanning, and to save trouble the bark was wastefully stripped from the trunks only, the remainder being left to rot; while in 1709 a large quantity of the rapidly disappearing ebony was used to burn lime for building fortifications! By the MSS. records quoted in Mr. Melliss' interesting volume on St. Helena,[119 - St. Helena: a Physical, Historical, and Topographical Description of the Island, &c. By John Charles Melliss, F.G.S., &c. London: 1875.] it is evident that the evil consequences of allowing the trees to be destroyed were clearly foreseen, as the following passages show: "We find the place called the Great Wood in a flourishing condition, full of young trees, where the hoggs (of which there is a great abundance) do not come to root them up. But the Great Wood is miserably lessened and destroyed within our memories, and is not near the circuit and length it was. But we believe it does not contain now less than fifteen hundred acres of fine woodland and good ground, but no springs of water but what is salt or brackish, which we take to be the reason that that part was not inhabited when the people first chose out their settlements and made plantations; but if wells could be sunk, which the governor says he will attempt when we have more hands, we should then think it the most pleasant and healthiest part of the island. But as to healthiness, we don't think it will hold so if the wood that keeps the land warm were destroyed, for then the rains, which are violent here, would carry away the upper soil, and it being a clay marl underneath would produce but little; as it is, we think in case it were enclosed it might be greatly improved" … "When once this wood is gone the island will soon be ruined" … "We viewed the wood's end which joins the Honourable Company's plantation called the Hutts, but the wood is so destroyed that the beginning of the Great Wood is now a whole mile beyond that place, and all the soil between being washed away, that distance is now entirely barren." (MSS. records, 1716.) In 1709 the governor reported to the Court of Directors of the East India Company that the timber was rapidly disappearing, and that the goats should be destroyed for the preservation of the ebony wood, and because the island was suffering from droughts. The reply was, "The goats are not to be destroyed, being more valuable than ebony." Thus, through the gross ignorance of those in power, the last opportunity of preserving the peculiar vegetation of St. Helena, and preventing the island from becoming the comparatively rocky desert it now is, was allowed to pass away.[120 - Mr. Marsh in his interesting work entitled The Earth as Modified by Human Action (p. 51), thus remarks on the effect of browsing quadrupeds in destroying and checking woody vegetation.—"I am convinced that forests would soon cover many parts of the Arabian and African deserts if man and domestic animals, especially the goat and the camel, were banished from them. The hard palate and tongue, and strong teeth and jaws of this latter quadruped enable him to break off and masticate tough and thorny branches as large as the finger. He is particularly fond of the smaller twigs, leaves, and seed-pods of the Sont and other acacias, which, like the American robinia, thrive well on dry and sandy soils, and he spares no tree the branches of which are within his reach, except, if I remember right, the tamarisk that produces manna. Young trees sprout plentifully around the springs and along the winter water-courses of the desert, and these are just the halting stations of the caravans and their routes of travel. In the shade of these trees annual grasses and perennial shrubs shoot up, but are mown down by the hungry cattle of the Bedouin as fast as they grow. A few years of undisturbed vegetation would suffice to cover such points with groves, and these would gradually extend themselves over soils where now scarcely any green thing but the bitter colocynth and the poisonous foxglove is ever seen."] Even in a mere pecuniary point of view the error was a fatal one, for in the next century (in 1810) another governor reports the total destruction of the great forests by the goats, and that in consequence the cost of importing fuel for government use was 2,729l. 7s. 8d. for a single year! About this time large numbers of European, American, Australian, and South African plants were imported, and many of these ran wild and increased so rapidly as to drive out and exterminate much of the relics of the native flora; so that now English broom gorse and brambles, willows and poplars, and some common American, Cape, and Australian weeds, alone meet the eye of the ordinary visitor. These, in Sir Joseph Hooker's opinion, render it absolutely impossible to restore the native flora, which only lingers in a few of the loftiest ridges and most inaccessible precipices, and is rarely seen except by some exploring naturalist.

This almost total extirpation of a luxuriant and highly peculiar vegetation must inevitably have caused the destruction of a considerable portion of the lower animals which once existed on the island, and it is rather singular that so much as has actually been discovered should be left to show us the nature of the aboriginal fauna. Many naturalists have made small collections during short visits, but we owe our present complete knowledge of the two most interesting groups of animals, the insects, and the land-shells, mainly to the late Mr. T. Vernon Wollaston, who, after having thoroughly explored Madeira and the Canaries, undertook a voyage to St. Helena for the express purpose of studying its terrestrial fauna, and resided for six months (1875-76) in a high central position, whence the loftiest peaks could be explored. The results of his labours are contained in two volumes,[121 - Coleoptera Sanctæ Helenæ, 1877; Testacea Atlantica, 1878.] which, like all that he wrote, are models of accuracy and research, and it is to these volumes that we are indebted for the interesting and suggestive facts which we here lay before our readers.

Insects—Coleoptera.—The total number of species of beetles hitherto observed at St. Helena is 203, but of these no less than seventy-four are common and wide-spread insects, which have certainly, in Mr. Wollaston's opinion, been introduced by human agency. There remain 129 which are believed to be truly aborigines, and of these all but one are found nowhere else on the globe. But in addition to this large amount of specific peculiarity (perhaps unequalled anywhere else in the world) the beetles of this island are equally remarkable for their generic isolation, and for the altogether exceptional proportion in which the great divisions of the order are represented. The species belong to thirty-nine genera, of which no less than twenty-five are peculiar to the island; and many of these are such isolated forms that it is impossible to find their allies in any particular country. Still more remarkable is the fact, that more than two-thirds of the whole number of indigenous species are Rhyncophora or weevils, while more than two-fifths (fifty-four species) belong to one family, the Cossonidæ. Now although the Rhyncophora are an immensely numerous group and always form a large portion of the insect population, they nowhere else approach such a proportion as this. For example, in Madeira they form one-sixth of the whole of the indigenous Coleoptera, in the Azores less than one-tenth, and in Britain one-seventh. Even more interesting is the fact that the twenty genera to which these insects belong are every one of them peculiar to the island, and in many cases have no near allies elsewhere, so that we cannot but look on this group of beetles as forming the most characteristic portion of the ancient insect fauna. Now, as the great majority of these are wood borers, and all are closely attached to vegetation and often to particular species of plants, we might, as Mr. Wollaston well observes, deduce the former luxuriant vegetation of the island from the great preponderance of this group, even had we not positive evidence that it was at no distant epoch densely forest-clad. We will now proceed briefly to indicate the numbers and peculiarities of each of the families of beetles which enter into the St. Helena fauna, taking them, not in systematic order, but according to their importance in the island.

1. Rhyncophora.—This great division includes the weevils and allied groups, and, as above stated, exceeds in number of species all the other beetles of the island. Four families are represented; the Cossonidæ, with fifteen peculiar genera comprising fifty-four species, and one minute insect (Stenoscelis hylastoides) forming a peculiar genus, but which has been found also at the Cape of Good Hope. It is therefore impossible to say of which country it is really a native, or whether it is indigenous to both, and dates back to the remote period when St. Helena received its early emigrants. All the Cossonidæ are found in the highest and wildest parts of the island where the native vegetation still lingers, and many of them are only found in the decaying stems of tree-ferns, box-wood, arborescent Compositæ, and other indigenous plants. They are all pre-eminently peculiar and isolated, having no direct affinity to species found in any other country. The next family, the Tanyrhynchidæ, has one peculiar genus in St. Helena, with ten species. This genus (Nesiotes) is remotely allied to European, Australian, and Madeiran insects of the same family: the habits of the species are similar to those of the Cossonidæ. The Trachyphlœidæ are represented by a single species belonging to a peculiar genus not very remote from a European form. The Anthribidæ again are highly peculiar. There are twenty-six species belonging to three genera, all endemic, and so extremely peculiar that they form two new subfamilies. One of the genera, Acarodes, is said to be allied to a Madeiran genus.

2. Geodephaga.—These are the terrestrial carnivorous beetles, very abundant in all parts of the world, especially in the temperate regions of the northern hemisphere. In St. Helena there are fourteen species belonging to three genera, one of which is peculiar. This is the Haplothorax burchellii, the largest beetle on the island, and now very rare. It resembles a large black Carabus. There is also a peculiar Calosoma, very distinct, though resembling in some respects certain African species. The rest of the Geodephaga, twelve in number, belong to the wide-spread genus Bembidium, but they are altogether peculiar and isolated, except one, which is of European type, and alone has wings, all the rest being wingless.

3. Heteromera.—This group is represented by three peculiar genera containing four species, with two species belonging to European genera. They belong to the families Opatridæ, Mordellidæ, and Anthicidæ.

4. Brachyelytra.—Of this group there are six peculiar species belonging to four European genera—Homalota, Philonthus, Xantholinus, and Oxytelus.

5. Priocerata.—The families Elateridæ and Anobiidæ are each represented by a peculiar species of a European genus.

6. Phytophaga.—There are only three species of this tribe, belonging to the European genus Longitarsus.

7. Lamellicornis.—Here are three species belonging to two genera. One is a peculiar species of Trox, allied to South African forms; the other two belong to the peculiar genus Melissius, which Mr. Wollaston considers to be remotely allied to Australian insects.

8. Pseudo-trimera.—Here we have the fine lady-bird Chilomenus lunata, also found in Africa, but apparently indigenous in St. Helena; and a peculiar species of Euxestes, a genus only found elsewhere in Madeira.