The Overland Guide-book

The Overland Guide-book
James Barber

James Barber

The Overland Guide-book / A complete vade-mecum for the overland traveller, to India viâ Egypt

INTRODUCTION

The purpose of this little volume, which I have now the honour to submit to the public, is to combine, in a compact and convenient form, all the information necessary to the prosecution of the journey Overland to India and vice versâ.

Scarcely a day passes that I am not asked, either personally or by letter, to guide some intending traveller in his arrangements for the trip, and even to advise him as to the preferable routes, the expense, the manner of the voyage, &c. Ignorance on all these points induces inapposite and irrelevant questions; and it is not unusual to find, at the end of correspondence or a prolonged interview, that the querist is as far from the possession of the knowledge he desired to acquire as he was when he first preferred his application. No clear and satisfactory information can possibly be obtained by a desultory conversation or fragmentary epistles; hence the value of a systematic and comprehensive arrangement of all the facts and suggestions pertaining to the subject.

There is another reason why I should put forth this Guide, – it completes, in a measure – as far, at least, as the great Overland scheme is in itself complete – my humble labours in the mighty cause of steam-communication between England and India. For the past fourteen years, I have earnestly and ardently advocated the accomplishment of this great object; and, though treated as a vain and visionary enthusiast, when I have presumed to predict the establishment of a semi-monthly intercourse (which I did in 1836!), my endeavours never relaxed, nor did my hope in the least degree abate. I may be pardoned, therefore, some measure of exultation and self-approval, when, looking back upon the state of the steam question some years ago, and tracing its rise and progress through a thousand difficulties and obstructions, I venture to associate my own zeal and exertions with the triumphant consummation apparent in the scheme now adopted and carried out by the "Peninsular and Oriental Company," and the "East India Company," not only with the Presidencies of India, but also with our Chinese possessions.

I laboured long and strenuously; for I could not persuade myself that British enterprise and public spirit would suffer so obvious a means of extending commerce and civilisation, and of the approximation of our vast Indian empire to the seat of its supreme rule, to be neglected. The great cause has triumphed, – some of my wildest dreams have become sober realities, and, while I feel grateful for the past, I am hopeful for the future.

Those who take a prominent and active part in promoting great schemes of public utility, where doubt and timidity, and envy and selfish interests are to be combated, must expect to meet with rebuffs and misrepresentations. Of these evils I have had my share, but I have also, from time to time, been unexpectedly cheered on the way by receiving voluntary and public testimonials of unspeakable value, graciously transmitted through various channels. I may be excused for publishing the following letter from the present excellent and much esteemed Bishop of Calcutta, for it displays a truly Christian spirit, – it grapples comprehensively with the question, and corroborates the view taken by the late Lord William Bentinck, who expressed his opinion "that steam-communication with India would be cheaply bought at any price."

    "BISHOPS PALACE, CALCUTTA,"22nd of October, 1838.

"Dear Sir,

"I should never forgive myself, if I conveyed to you the accompanying resolution without, at the same time, assuring you of the sincere gratitude I feel in the bottom of my heart to a gentleman who has laboured so assiduously, diligently and successfully in one of the greatest cause that ever interested humanity.

"I can truly say, that the consequences, immediate and remote, of steam-communication between India and Europe defy calculation. Such a wonderful adaptation of science is full of 'the seed of things,' as was said of Lord Bacon's philosophical writings and principles two centuries since.

"The invention of printing, and the discovery of the mariners' compass, did not more immediately bear upon the happiness of mankind. The human family is now indeed approximating, and, by inter-communication of knowledge, the times may be expected to draw on, when the illumination of the more prostrate nations will be borrowed from the most remote and exalted.

"Allow me, sir, to conclude with saying that, not only as a Chairman, but as a man and a Christian, I have sincere pleasure in transmitting to you the enclosed resolution, and am

"Your most obedient,"

D. CALCUTTA

"To Captain James Barber, "&c., &c., &c."

The journey to and from India, by way of Egypt, is now one of comparative ease and pleasure; and, as it is my intention to publish periodically a revised edition of "The Overland Guide Book," I shall feel grateful to those persons who, from time to time, will communicate with me on the subject, in order that the best and fullest information gained by experience may be made available to the traveller who prefers this route.

    JAMES BARBER.

THE OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK

The communication with India by means of steam-vessels, viâ the Mediterranean and the Red Sea, can no longer be viewed as an experimental project; the great increase that has taken place in the number of travellers by this route in a few brief years has distanced all calculation, and we, therefore, place before the public such facts, details and suggestions, connected with what is popularly called "The Overland Route," as shall facilitate the performance of the voyage, from the hour when the resolution to proceed to India or to Europe is taken, down to that which sees the traveller safely deposited at his destination.

The sea route round the Cape of Good Hope still has its partisans, in spite of the tedium, extra risk and absence of all objects of interest, which necessarily distinguish such a voyage. False notions of economy, groundless apprehensions, peculiar ideas of comfort and ancient prejudices, cannot be immediately dissipated, especially when so many encouragements to their continuance exist in the beautiful trading-vessels, which offer accommodation to the public, commanded by gentlemen, whose courtesy and sçavoir vivre are only equalled by their nautical experience.

Still in this – the comparative infancy of the steam route – nine-tenths of those whom fortune may carry to India will prefer the most expeditious manner of proceeding thither; and it, therefore, becomes in the highest degree important that they should be supplied with the fullest information, in furtherance of their purpose.

Under this impression, the following pages have been compiled; and, as we purpose to confine ourselves to useful and practical detail, the reader is left to seek, in the numberless volumes that have been published, a more elaborate account of those objects on his route which he may desire to mark with special attention.

The following division of our subject appears the most convenient for the object of this publication: —

Instructions and Hints to Passengers to Aden, Ceylon, Madras, Calcutta, the Straits and China

To Bombay

Routes through France and Trieste

From India, viâ Syra, Malta, Marseilles, or direct to Southampton

Miscellaneous

THE PASSAGE TO ADEN, CEYLON, MADRAS, CALCUTTA, THE STRAITS AND CHINA

The "Peninsular and Oriental Company" having contracted with Her Majesty's government to carry a mail monthly to the above places, also secure to passengers accommodation along the whole route, at a specific charge, and, by the same opportunity, drop at Malta or Alexandria those persons who do not contemplate proceeding any farther.

The steamers remain at Gibraltar six, and at Malta twelve, hours.

The charge for a passage varies according to the accommodation occupied and the distance to be travelled. On reference to Appendix A, the reader will find the fullest information, with a list of the Company's ships and the lines on which they are at present stationed.

As berths in all these steamers vary in comfort as well as price, persons who have determined to proceed to India or the intermediate ports, at a particular date, cannot be too early in their application and choice. On these points every information is most readily and courteously given at the office of the "Peninsular and Oriental Company." But if the party going be, from his absence from town or inexperience in business, under the necessity of employing an intermediate agent to secure a passage for him, he would do well to select one thoroughly acquainted not only with the vessels themselves, but with all that appertains to them.

As a general rule, we may remark that these steamers are liberally provided with all that passengers can possibly desire. A good table is kept, and the cabins are comfortably and conveniently fitted, and sheets, pillow-cases and towels are supplied. It may, however, be as well to give some precise information as to the possible requirements of a passenger; for a simple statement of what the steamers do provide scarcely involves a specification of the articles not to be found on board. Let it be stated, then, that there is no sort of occasion for bed or table-linen, a sofa, wash-hand-stand, looking-glass, boot-hooks, jugs, tumblers, blacking and brushes, or those "overland bedsteads" which we see continually advertised; but it will be prudent to be provided with a large rug, an air pillow, and a counterpane or resai (wadded coverlet); for it is very probable that, on getting into a warm latitude, the traveller will prefer sleeping on deck, and the steamer's bedding is not allowed to be carried from its place for such purposes.

The steamers leave Southampton on the 20th of each month – provided the luggage be sent down in due time.[1 - Vide James Barber and Co.'s Circular.]Passengers need not leave London till an early morning train on the day of embarkation. Those who intend sleeping at Southampton the previous night should bespeak beds. The vessels are moored alongside the quay in the docks, and the hire of a truck from the railway to the steamer is one shilling. Flies also are in constant attendance; in fine weather, however, the distance is an agreeable ten-minutes' walk or less.

Railway trains from the Waterloo Bridge station to Southampton, in the morning, at 7·15 o'clock, 10·30 o'clock (mail); afternoon, 1, 3·45, 5 o'clock (express); evening, 30 minutes past 8 o'clock. Mail Sunday trains, morning, at 9 o'clock; afternoon, 5 o'clock; evening, 30 minutes past 8 o'clock. Mail passengers should be at the station at least a quarter of an hour before the trains start.

Passengers should embark at Southampton not later than 12·30 P.M.

The trunks in which clothes for the voyage may be packed, should be regulated by the calling or capacity of the traveller. If he be a military or medical man, and, therefore, liable to much marching about in India, bullock-trunks, specially made at the outfitters, are preferable, as they are permanently useful. Passengers are strongly recommended to adopt trunks or portmanteaus of the following dimensions, viz.: – length, 2 feet 3 inches, breadth, 1 foot 2 inches, depth, 1 foot 2 inches, and to have their names and the port of debarkation distinctly painted on each package. No package or baggage should exceed 80 lbs. in weight, otherwise it may be delayed in Egypt. The portmanteaus should be of leather, or material not liable to injury or breakage in handling.[2 - Ladies will find Messrs. Thresher and Glenny's air-tight cases very useful, even in India. This firm, as general outfitters for the Overland Route, deservedly stand high, and merit every encouragement.]

The following are the leading points of the "Peninsular and Oriental Company's" regulations: —

Passengers not proceeding, after taking berths, will forfeit half the passage-money. In case, however, of a passenger being unavoidably prevented from availing himself of a passage at the period for which it is taken, a transfer of the passage can be effected to a subsequent steamer, on due notice being given, without forfeiture of any portion of the deposit paid, and accommodation will be allotted as similar as circumstances will permit.

On either side of the Isthmus, three cwt. of personal baggage is allowed to each first-class passenger; but 16s. per cwt. is charged by the "Egyptian Transit Company" for conveyance through Egypt on all baggage exceeding two cwt.

In the steamers, children, servants and second-class passengers are allowed one cwt. and a half each; 16s. per cwt. being charged by the "Egyptian Transit Company" on all beyond one cwt.

A passenger engaging a whole cabin for the entire voyage, is entitled to take in the steamer four and a half cwt. of luggage; but is subject to the charge in Egypt as above stated.

Excess of three cwt. of baggage in the steamer pays freight at the rate of £1 per cwt., in the Alexandria steamers, and £2 per cwt. in the India vessels.

Any luggage beyond that allowed free must be put on board and paid for three days previous to the vessel's departure. Carpet-bags and hat-boxes only will be received on the day of sailing. The Company give notice that, all luggage (save as aforesaid) that shall be shipped on the day of departure will be considered as extra, and charged for accordingly.

Passengers taking articles of merchandise in their baggage will incur the risk of seizure by the customs' authorities in Egypt.

The Company do not hold themselves responsible for detention, damage, or loss of baggage.